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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2018 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    I have a lost dog for the moment.....didn't have a dish handy....or did I ? 48D
  2. 8 points
    I've been known to scribble on some paper. This selection of subjects are still vehicle related though.
  3. 7 points
    I dig up volunteer mimosa, pecan and burr oak trees around the place, pot them for 3 years, then plant in strategic locations for myself or my neighbors, also gift them to friends and neighbors with planting and care support...so I reckon there's almost 200 more trees around TX than there was 15 years ago thanks to my green thumb...the trees are nice to look at, but around these parts, they really become valuable when they begin to produce shade
  4. 6 points
    Found this 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe on Kijiji a few weeks ago a few hours from me, and for 400 bucks I couldn't say no. Complete car with floor rust but solid other than that. Interior has mildew but going to try and tidy it up. Original paint will buff up. Cleaned off the massive amount of algae for now. Last insured 10 years ago.
  5. 5 points
    Bobacuda

    Poor chicken...

  6. 5 points
    PT81Jan

    Droopy door handle

    Radarsonwheels, my PT had a hanging door handle on the driver side like yours. I really didn`t like that hanging thing, so I put it on to the to do list for the winter. But just some weeks ago the handle completely gave in and was hanging vertically down. I expected a broken spring. I pulled out the door latch assembly saw no obvious damage. After dismantling the latch assembly and figure out how these parts work together it was clear the reason was wear. Enclosed some pictures, which may help to understand and fix the latch in case yours has got the same problem: Blue arrows shows the edge which was worn. The green line indicates where the edge should be. I fixed this by welding material to the latch and grind it to correct length. Note: It helps a lot to draw the outlines to a board before welding (picture 4). So it is easier to grind the edge to the proper length. Picture 5 shows the worn edge (red line) which led to a gap to the rotating piece (green line) and thus to the wobbly/hanging handle Picture 6 displays the fixed edge. No gap - no wobble, no hanging handle 😊
  7. 5 points
    Jomani

    Oil Pan Installation

    I worked as a field service diesel mechanic a long time ago. For ease of future service, my rule of thumb was to never use any type of sealant on the engine side of anything. It is much easier to scrape the old gasket off the part (sitting on the back of my truck) than the engine while it is still in the vehicle. The other reason I do it that way - if you look at the most stable surface, it should be the machined surface on the engine block. Unless it has defects, it most likely won’t be the cause of any leaks. The oil pan on the other hand will flex and bend if/when the bolts are over tightened - that would be the surface causing the leaks. Every Engine has specific places where leaks are more of a potential - generally where joints are created in the gasket material. Those are the only places where I would use a small amount of silicone - just my opinion of course.
  8. 5 points
    Yea....I agree. I decided to leave it and see if it grew on me.......I ended up marrying the help, so I left it. lol. 48D
  9. 4 points
    ggdad1951

    Repairing pilothouse fenders

    On FEF, the area was cut out and a new reinforcement plate added back in (yes that back plate is there on purpose). Then some carriage bolts were turned down and used in place of the rivets. Yes, you would have trapped rust hiding in there. I think the rivets are part of the DODGE look and really need to be put back...but that's me...
  10. 4 points
    The real story for my wife and kids, is they know I miss my favorite buddy Red. Lost him back in 2012....some of you might remember him from a BBQ or two.... He was definitely this man's best friend. It was nice to be reminded of him.
  11. 4 points
    If change is hard to deal with why don’t everyone just give it to a good nonprofit organization like your local Lions Club or The Salvation Army. No more stress and you did something good.
  12. 4 points
    Seeing Mack the Fingers post reminds me of a very fond memory of my Mom Dad and I from when I was about 10. We lived in Tucson and we took a little day trip into the desert not far from where I live now to look for "Desert Roses" . Dad brought come Chef Boyardee spaghetti with us to eat for lunch. Well he forgot to bring something to heat it on . So he too the hubcap off our car it was a Vega so no loss there and built a first under it . Then he set the opened can on top of it and let it heat up. After a few minutes I look at the can and the heat had made the contents of the can rise up in a tall spaghetti column like a push pop almost to the point of collapsing onto the hubcap and ground. I brought it to my Dads attention and he hurriedly poked a the wedge shaped end of the still new/ unused tire iron lug wrench into it to shove it back into the can all the time laughing . Dad was a hoot. One night when Mom was at my Aunts house next door Dad decided to make his own corn nuts. He drained and salted a can of hominys and put them on a flat cookie sheet type thing and put them into the toaster oven to roast and get crunchy. Long story short.... after a while all of the sudden they started to explode like firecrackers just as Mom walked in the front door. Dad wasnt allowed to use the kitchen for a while after that. I sure do miss them both. John
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    Merle Coggins

    Oil Pan Installation

    I would use a little Ultra Black silicone sealant in the corners, where all the gasket pieces meet. Otherwise I don’t like silicone gasket sealant, especially with cork gaskets. I like to use a tacky type of gasket stuff, like Permetex’s #9 Tack and Seal on one side to hold it from moving around. Then s light coat of grease on the side against the block. Don’t over torque the bolts. Just snug them up, and go back after a while and recheck them.
  15. 4 points
    I deleted a recent thread regarding the quality of parts from one of the larger mopar specific parts suppliers. This was done for several reasons after being contacted directly by the vendor. First, several statements were made about the vendor by members who had never done any business with them. So they were expressing opinions not based on any first hand knowledge of the subject. This is not acceptable. Second, the original poster assumed the vendor would not be willing to work with him in resolving the issue. These types of situations are often resolved with a single phone call even after a lengthy time period. The mopar community and it's supporting vendors are a small group and it's to the benefit of the vendor to have the opportunity to try and fix the issue. As others noted in the thread we don't have a lot of alternative vendors like the Chevy and Ford guys. Giving vendors constructive feedback on needed product improvements will often result in better products. If not your other choice is heading to the boneyard and getting lucky. So just a couple guidelines before going off on a rant: If you have an issue with a vendor, contact them directly to see if you can come to an agreeable resolution. If you don't have first hand knowledge, don't pile on with opinions based on stuff "you heard". Realize your unsupported claims/comments could put you in a position for legal action for libel. (It also potentially exposes me as site owner) Lastly, when a vendor does the right thing, share that experience also. I learned a long time ago having an issue with a customer at some point in time is just doing business. It's how those differences are resolved that determines how the vendor should be judged.
  16. 4 points
    I have done enough on-line deals that I can say that statistically, 1% of the population are crackpots that will complain because they wanted something for free and that it took too long for it to be delivered and that the quality was not as advertised in the first place. Ebay took steps to give vendors some recourse against crackpots when they modified their rating system to allow for rebuttal against negative ratings, which was kinda helpful to identify crackpot sellers and buyers alike. On the other hand, I have heard stories about how some vendors have "volunteers" who pad ratings on Amazon and Yelp, witnessing odd spikes in positive feedback immediately after negative feedback is posted. So when somebody tries to tell me about a vendor's on-line rating, I argue that those results may be skewed by bias on both sides by crackpots who are trying to game the system. I have found a downside of leaving realistic reviews is that I have been contacted by other customers through vendors' websites, and half of these contacts are by crackpots who cannot be bothered to do their own basic research (does this u-joint have grease in it?) or have no idea what they are doing but want their electronic device to be a magic genie of answers (will this pressure manifold work on my ancient air compressor that I don't even know what its model number is?). So it boils down to good customer relations, where the customer also has the responsibility to deal with any complaints promptly and realistically.
  17. 4 points
    Today was front bumper day. My buddy came over and helped wrangle the doghouse on and off a few times. We jacked up the front and removed the wheels, measured and sanded the rad support crossmember and ‘54 frame stubs, put on the tins, cribbed up the bumper, and tacked a couple pieces of round stock in place. Then we pulled the tins off and connected the 54 frame stubs to the crossmember with 3/16” plate. Then we got excited and forgot to paint all the new stuff and put the sheetmetal back on again. I had never had the fenders in place since I swapped out the 1989 v6 springs for the moog coils and I was really crossing my fingers that it would not still be too low to turn the tires. Thankfully the spring swap worked out beautifully. The tires look nicely framed by the wheel arches but still have plenty of room to haul passengers, hit bumps, and turn into driveways. Another nice surprise was that the water pump pulley clears my electric fan with just enough room. Never had the nose on with the rad installed before. If I was running rubber motor mounts I would have to really watch out for trouble as they broke in but I think the polys will limit my motor travel pretty well. So here’s pics at full drop which looks pretty cool but rides on the rear bumpstops, and also around where I think I might want a regular cruising height, with the bags inflated but not too firm yet.
  18. 3 points
    austinsailor

    MY 51 WON'T CRANK VERY FAST

    My 48 B1B had similar problems, just very slow cranking. I’d checked everything, including the guts of the starter. Cleaned the armature, brushes bearings and all. Cleaned connections. One day I got particularly fed up and just pulled the starter off another truck I had and presto - all was good, cranked very fast. might save yourself a lot of headaches if you just buy, borrow or steal another starter.
  19. 3 points
    Flatie46

    Junkyard Photos

    I took my son often to many junkyards off the beaten path when he was growing up. He told me recently that was the coolest thing he remembers as a kid and was so fortunate to have been able to see all the old stuff. He's a gearhead now himself, loves vintage autos and is a pretty darn good mechanic. Which is unusual for this generation. We had fun, it was always like a treasure hunt.
  20. 3 points
    Sharps40

    Wood for bed floor oak or pine

    I used trex like composite product in mine. An aged silver/grey called something like beachouse cottage or some such. You can get it in thicknesses like 5/8, 3/4, etc. Got it at lowes. Perfect, no stain, machines like wood, wears like iron.
  21. 3 points
    Dodgeb4ya

    Oil Pans Types

    My 51 Plymouth has baffles, my 53 Savoy did not.... my 52 Dodge had baffles. I have not seen baffles in the B series 1/2 thru 1 tons. Here is a factory picture out of the 1949-52 Dodge shop manual showing a baffled oil pan.
  22. 3 points
    bosworth

    Wood for bed floor oak or pine

    I used yellow pine for my bed floor, i was able to find relatively clear 1x6 stock, I used waterproof glue to glue the boards to correct width. I think it would be a bad idea to try to glue the bottom into one large solid wood panel. Solid wood will expand across it's grain no matter what kind of finish is used. If the bottom is separated into individual strips, each board will expand and contract a small amount that can be concealed by the metal strips, if the panel is one large piece it will expand and contract as much as 1/2 inch in width. If you have holes drilled through the panel the board will likely split at one or more of the series of bolts. Plywood will not expand and contract in the same way. Bill
  23. 3 points
    She's a beauty. The truck looks nice too.
  24. 3 points
  25. 3 points
    knuckleharley

    What is this??

    I have positively identified it as "Very Cool"!


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