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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2019 in all areas
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I'm not laughing. I used to do the exact same thing in my '38 Chrysler which I have since sold. I would sometimes sit out there at night with the instrument lights on and sip on a beer and just enjoy the moment. I would wonder who were the people who travelled in that car and discussed what was happening during World War II. I sometimes have seller's remorse when I see a picture like this.3 points
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My wife is laughing at me while I sit in my black dark garage, inside my ‘38 tonite. Today was a small step for car repairs , but a giant step for my own benefit and motivation. Tonite we have dash lights in the Plymouth! Super exciting stuff. I felt nostalgic sitting in there enjoying the old gauges. Feeling like a passenger might have in 1938. The wiring re-work is progressing. The rear chassis harness and fuel tank are back in place. Today I cleaned up a fair bit of badly deteriorated wires. More to go, but just wanted to share my progress.3 points
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G'day All, This is my 1955 DeSoto Diplomat Regent. I bought it recently and got a Roadworthy Certificate yesterday morning, and got Club Permit plates in the afternoon. Previous owners have thrown a lot of money at it and all I had to do was replace a defective hydraulic brake light switch. It is a SP25-3 with a 250.6 cu in motor (3 7/16 x 4 1/2) and 3 speed with O/drive. The carby is off a Falcon with aftermarket air cleaner. Electric fuel pump next to tank. It has been repainted at some time and the engine fully recoed. Recently the head has been shaved .050". Now to drive the wheels off it.1 point
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First I want to thank Chrysler1941 you are a gentleman and a scholar! But...I WAS WRONG! The Chrysler and Desoto frames are not the same! I printed out your page and the Desoto has a "ladder" frame while my Chrysler has an "A" frame! There are even additional frame mounts too. So I guess I still need a photo of the page from the Chrysler manual if anyone would be so kind. Thanks, JT1 point
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I'll try and get a trace in the next week or two. Lot's going on right now but I should have time in early November. In the meantime I'm going to lay some objects on the mat to try and get the wrinkles out of it. Brad1 point
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I would add to the last post - before attempting to start, remove the spark plugs and then turn the engine over to get rid of any excess oil remaining in the cylinders,otherwise the engine may hydrolock.1 point
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Unfortunately me and Debbie were booked to go but couldn't make it so I will put up some pictures of my 1941 Dodge luxury liner that I have had since 2017 had loads of work done now fluid drive seal new headlights new prop shaft and a cleverly installed turn signals and brake light ( thanks to colin)1 point
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Sitting in the car with the instrument lights glowing is good therapy. Also listening to the clock ticking and periodically thumping its rewind. Nostalgia. Sitting in my Dad's car, lulled by the soft ticking.1 point
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Thanks Bisquik! It’s a carter deadhead carb style pump that feeds high volume low pressure to the surge tank so the EFI pump won’t ever run dry. The surge tank overflows back into the main fuel cell along with the return from the regulator from the throttle body. Mine has little rubber isolators which definitely help some with the noise. I have had the big holley pumps on muscle cars before and they are louder. Kind of reminiscent of the buzzer on a high school basketball scoreboard! I’m spoiled with this holley efi setup. It cycles the pumps for five seconds or so in the run position, gives a little shot to wet the intake for startup, then turns off until you crank it. Once my motor is dumping out of dual 3.5” flowmasters under the bed the pump noise is not so noticable ? I like the carter pumps too though I’ve had a bunch of them and never ran WOT for long enough on the street to outflow one. here’s a pic of how it was before- it was hanging pretty low1 point
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Either would work, using the pump will tell you if it is still working. If it is no longer working, then can go straight to the carb and gravity feed it ... the tank now has to be higher then the carb. The main thing is to be safe and not get in a hurry, make sure all your connections are secure and leak proof, make sure the tank will not fall over etc. Sometimes we do something a hundred times safe, then get careless and in a hurry, thats when accidents happen.1 point
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I have used White Post several times and always been extremely pleased with the finished product and durability. I think they are better than new. I always send old wheel and master cylinders made either in the US or Canada. Check out their website.1 point
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Why do you want to do a chassis swap? It already has IFS and a frame strong enough to handle a big block. Is it so far gone that Rat rod is your only option? Show us some snaps so we can help you.1 point
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My ‘38 even has a stock hydraulic activated switch. Follow your brake line along the LH side of the car frame. Under the seats look for a hydraulic switch. 2 wires plug into it. Brake lines screw into it. See here, black arrow pointing to it in my ‘53-‘54 parts manual. Yours will likely be similar.1 point
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If trim is stainless and channel shaped you can melt lead into the channel. You now will have a solid piece that will bend without kinking. When done you melt it out.1 point
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Here's the radio at half volume on a test drive. Some may doubt that these old tube radios aren't loud enough, but they are surprisingly loud, more than enough in a noisy cab. I have a single 5 1/4 inch, 4 ohm speaker in the dash. So cool to tune the dial and find some music. ?1 point
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I don't know about the older than 1953 Dodge straight axles, but when one of my front wheels spun a bearing and wiped out the hub and spindle, I was told I could use one from any of the Dodge I-Beams from the '50's up. I got a set from a '69 1/2 ton short-wide that was a "miser," lightweight 6 cyl - the kingpins were the wrong size. I went back and got a set from a '69, full size Sweptline with a slant 6 - fit great. I am using the spindles, hubs and drum brakes. It goes without saying to use the wheel bearings and seals that fit the replacement spindles and hubs. So, from my experience, spindles (get the hubs and all the brake stuff, too) from the newer Dodge I-beams will work, just make sure that you have the correct King Pin size or a parts yard that will work with you if you get a set that won't fit..1 point
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White ash was the wood used in the Chrysler and other MoPar woodies. Also a quick 400 grit roughing of the previous thinned and full vis coats is for good top coat adhesion.1 point
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When putting a outdoor long lasting, non peeling paint or oil based finish the first two coats should be thinned down to a very thin watery viscosity. This so it will soak deep into the wood. Cut and drill all boards then coat. After two thinned /dried coats a final one or two full viscosity top coats. No peeling. JMO. My woodie has had the same spar varnish on it for 40 years and still looks as good as the day I applied it in 78.1 point
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Last year I used some muriatic acid to remove rust. I thought my process was going to be better then what I was told to do. For some reason, My way worked on one fender, but on the other fender it did not work at all. I treated the fenders last year, then stored them in my office, the one bad fender was first in and had all the rest of the front end parts hiding it. Just saying, this is correct and how I put the fenders away. ...The hood and other front end sheet metal was just fine with same treatment. Then you look at this fender, I am fighting it and think I am winning, is a acid wash, then a vinegar rinse then repeat, then hose off and repeat again. I do have the inside of the fender looking good, Now starting on the outside. I just wanted to add, Muriatic acid is good tool to have, be sure to neutralize it correctly. I bet one more winter in my house and would have lost this fender, it was rusting so bad. Now it is just a job twice as big as it was the first time, because I did not do it correct the first time ?0 points