Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2019 in all areas

  1. Yesterday I picked up an addition to the farm - an 1948ish (still somewhat unsure on exact year) Ward Tractor sold through the Montgomery Ward mail order catalog. These tractors were built by the Custom Manufacturing Corporation and marketed under a long list of names, but were more or less all identical. These tractors were build using mostly military surplus parts and depending on the exact options and manufacturing location, they were more or less Dodge trucks with big rear tires. The Ward tractor now under my care has a little less in common with the typical Dodge truck as the rear axle is very different. It utilizes a Timken rear axle with outboard planetaries - there were some versions that did use actual truck axles with a 2:1? gearbox between the transmission and the rear axle. This particular tractor has a 230ci 6A engine, with a fluid drive clutch assembly, a 5 speed New Process transmission. On the right side of the transmission is an auxilary PTO assembly that runs a 540 PTO shaft to the back of the tractor to power implements as well as the belt pulley on the side. There is also a PTO hookup to run a PTO shaft forward if desired (not sure if it was ever used like that). It has the before mentioned Timken rear axle with planetaries and utilized hydraulic drum brakes for the rear wheels. The dual exhaust was a factory option from Custom and this tractor is basically stock when it comes to the exhaust. This tractor is also converted to LP at some point in its life. I have a large LP tank and misc parts that were originally on the tractor, but now it currently runs off a 20lb LP tank stuffed up under the hood to reduce the weight and make it into an antique pulling tractor. (also notice all the extra weights and it has wheelie bars on the back). These tractors were governed pretty low from the factory (2100rpmish I think) - and consequently they were pretty low on power because of that. I think this tractor is about a 48hp unit as it was shipped from the factory. My plans are to restore the tractor to like new condition - eventually - for right now, I'm just going to clean it up and make it presentable. It needs a good bath, a wax, some wiring cleaned up, some paint on the pulling parts, a little TLC to the LP setup, and it should be good to go. I should note - it sounds damn good under a little load - and I think its going to fly in road gear based on the very little bit I have drive the tractor. I've been hesitant to take it out and open it up as I don't think there is much propane in that little cylinder and I know how much my LP Deere drinks under load.... that grill cylinder isn't going to get me far. Anyway - I hope everyone enjoys something a little different, but mostly on topic. If anyone has any experience on these engines running on LP - I'd like to pick their brains on vaporizers and LP carbs.
    4 points
  2. Damn Reg..... I've never seen a 1 BBL tunnel ram before....lol.
    2 points
  3. Finally rolling so I took it out for some sun ?
    2 points
  4. Hey Nick- I used 3/16" on front and back. A lot of the Hot Rodders love the Stainless brake line but I went with Copper/Zinc because it is WAY easier to work with and is much cheaper for the line and fittings The Proportioning valve is AllStar (Michigan Company) Summit Racing part Numbers below may help for the in-lines 2lbs in the front and 10lb for the drums in the back AAF-ALL41040 COMBINATION VALVE DISC/DRUM B (Review this product) A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $74.99 1 $74.99 12/20/2017 WIL-260-13783 KIT RPV 2LB. INLINE BLUE W/FIT (Review this product) A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 2 $39.56 12/20/2017 WIL-260-13784 KIT RPV 10LB. INLINE RED W/FIT (Review this product) A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 1 $19.78 12/20/2017 Merchandise Total $134.33 Hope this helps!!! Bob
    1 point
  5. I have to admit that a thread titled "Parts Request" will get a moderator's attention even if it is posted on the truck side and the moderator focuses on the car side.
    1 point
  6. Loving the fuel pump. I think I have the same one and its the noisiest damn thing on the truck!
    1 point
  7. Hi Radar - My strong recommendation is to find somebody to punch louvers in your hood. Trying to weld louvered panels into a curved hood would be extremely difficult to pull off, even for an expert body man. I picked up an extra hood for my P12 and had a local "old timer" (sorry, Roy!) stamp it full of louvers and it was worth every dollar.
    1 point
  8. get some bolts and cut the heads off. Then you can start the wheel with that holding it and remove it after a couple other lugs are started. Challenge might be finding the LH thread bolts to cut up
    1 point
  9. I am hoping to clear up confusion and/or confirm something with the bed supports. It looks like on the support nearest the cab spans far enough to have a bolt in the metal part of the bed, but it is only one of the four. So, my conclusion is the wood is doing the actual support of the metal part of the bed. Have I got this right or am I missing something with the supports? Thanks for any helping a confused person...
    1 point
  10. That Caddy needs to be restored.
    1 point
  11. I have used White Post several times and always been extremely pleased with the finished product and durability. I think they are better than new. I always send old wheel and master cylinders made either in the US or Canada. Check out their website.
    1 point
  12. Acedic acid cure silicone will cause rusting of metals. Neutral cure type won't.
    1 point
  13. 20 years later, and that silicon is still in place, nothing has rusted out, nor struck by lightning, nor attacked by bees, nor stampeded by unicorns...
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the tip, I will check them out. I have had this master cylinder in & out twice so far. Ran into problems with the old brass fittings being cross threaded. I knew the 4 way fitting was cross threaded, I could not find another, so switched to 2 T's. That's why I left the new lines long so I could twist them as needed in place. I then found the brass fitting on the master was also cross threaded, so I pulled it back out to replace it. Now I have it back in, and can route the lines as needed, I also picked up a 5/16" plug to take care of the extra hole in the 2 T's. This plug will work to hold the fluid, when I pull the master for the 3rd time, bench bleed it again, then connect it to the finished lines. I Have a new floor pan to install, I finally cut the old floor out last night. Now I can finish the lines from the top instead of laying under it. Now I am more concerned with getting this area cleaned and painted, then finish the lines. Just take advantage of the nicer weather to paint, before it gets to cold to paint. So much work in this area needs to be done before the floor goes back in. Shakes head and sighs ? Clutch pedal bushing is bad E-brake is froze & cable is broke Service the u-joints and replace as needed Shifting linkage needs dis assembled and cleaned greased Sure I will find more once I get into it. Sure glad this stuff is fun
    1 point
  15. Have you discovered a problem with the stock frame? Is there a weakness or damage you feel needs to be addressed? What parts are you having problems finding? Is there a bigger better frame that works without completely reconfiguring body mounts sheet metal supports, proper bumpers?
    1 point
  16. Huge step for me this weekend! My buddy Tom came over with his bigger floor jack and taller jack stands. He suggested we pull the steering tube after disconnecting the shift linkage to have less clutter so we did just that. Only the steering shaft was left. I had previously removed, cut, ground, drilled all the body bolts (or so I thought...). After reading your suggestions on removing the doors I decided to leave them in place for now. So, next we slipped some 2x4's just behind the rocker panels where the 3 or 4 cross bar body channels would distribute the load and then started jacking. We got the front up to almost the capacity of our jacks (mine is only a 1.5 ton Harbor Freight special) and set up the jack stands with some doubled 2x6 beams. Next step was to do the same to the back end. Funny thing, we started jacking and the front started rising and not the rear. We were lifting just in front of the rear wheel fenders under the last rocker frame bracket. Took another look and Tom spotted yet another 2 frame/body bolts under the rear trunk "c" channel. I didn't check in that small gap and sure enough there are 2 carriage bolts that were still holding the rear end. Once we unbolted them the rear end came up smoothly like the front. Then we moved back and forth slowly bringing everything up higher with the help of some paving blocks we needed to get more height on the floor jacks and also the jack stands. I don't like doing this but they are solid concrete so they really can't go anywhere and it worked perfectly. When we got to the highest we could go looking from the rear you could see that the rear pumpkin hump and the rear wheel kick up was still going to hit. Thought about letting air out of the tires but it still wasn't enough so wound up removing tires and slipping some plastic furniture sliders under the bottom shock mounts. We knew it was going to be close. I grabbed my front end loader and hooked up a tow strap. Slowly, slowly, slowly I pulled out the frame while Tom kept an eye on the stands. Just cleared them by 1/4"! Woo-hoo the frame was out! My welder is coming today or tomorrow to assess the rockers and floor pans to see what he needs to fabricate. There are one or two floor cross supports/frame mounts that need replacing. The were originally press formed steel I guess. What have you guys done to replace these? Are they easily fabricated with some tube steel or c-channel? Anyway, it's nice to make some progress! Now I can hardly move, my back is shot and my knees are throbbing...time for more advil! Why didn't I start doing this 20 years ago when I was young(er)! Oh well...I'm learning a little more every day.
    1 point
  17. Yep...for us, uhhh, mature guys our cars are built out of blood, sweat, and......pain! Congratulations on a successful delivery, now the work can begin.
    1 point
  18. Well Frank, after all it is a one of a kind 230 SpitSfire 6. ?
    1 point
  19. JBNeal now I understood.The first pic is mine engine with its oil filler tube CAP that does not allow the air enter to the crankcase.The second pic is from Bradley he sent me years ago,with filter in the crankcase filler tube.Thanks.
    1 point
  20. Whitepost.com. They were a bit pricey, but like brand new. I was very pleased w/them & they work great. I wanna say in the $300.00 range for the (2) rear cylinders. My truck is a B3-J 2 1/2 ton dump. Hope that helps.
    1 point
  21. Silicone is bad for metal contact....I never use it around metal. AS for the color to paint, WHITE actually is the better choice over silver/metallic. Many years of playing lighting engineer taught me this.
    1 point
  22. The disgronificator. Or if not that, an electric eye to dim the headlights.
    1 point
  23. Why do you want to do a chassis swap? It already has IFS and a frame strong enough to handle a big block. Is it so far gone that Rat rod is your only option? Show us some snaps so we can help you.
    1 point
  24. Missing it altogether. My grandpa used to use a 5 gal pal to drive it.
    1 point
  25. Today's task was to install the Bluetooth module into the Tube radio, hide all the wires and get it all working. Mission accomplished ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HgQvee6w0w
    1 point
  26. Nice. My favorite grouse gun is either my Ruger 10/22 (iron sights) or Ruger 77/22 (scoped). Both are nail drivers, which one I use depends on how thick the forest is where I plan to hunt. Shots past 15 yards are rare around here, most are within 5 yards or so. But I'll take a scattergun when hunting with buddies, darn birds don't sit still long enough for a .22 shot when there's a group of us in the field, too much noise.
    1 point
  27. beautiful car! I like Your road fotos! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
    1 point
  28. My wife driving. She drove for 100Kms and did really well.
    1 point
  29. Leaving the Rally Hqtrs,
    1 point
  30. Yep they did make that set up... not common though... Here are a couple pics....Young Ed has one ....
    1 point
  31. dad had a Nambu pistol…..traded it to my uncle...not sure if still in the family or not....slick looking pistol.
    1 point
  32. The Classified section used to be pretty good. They had posts from guys who had laundry lists of great parts that you cannot find anywhere else, I looked in that section tonight and there is nothing there...shame. I rely a lot on the guys out West for parts because most of the old B series trucks in Florida are nothing but rust buckets, or they are in the same boat as me...looking anywhere for those rare and strange parts...
    1 point
  33. I'm a bit younger than most around here, so my first Mopar experience was as a teenager in 2005 outside our local depressed mall. A friend was throwing a rock show in an empty store, and out back one of the guys had a '68 440 R/T Charger in B5 blue that sounded incredible and shot flames. It left an impression. A couple years later I bought a '72 Valiant, and then a '74 Duster, and then a '73 Scamp (from the guy with the Charger,) and then about 10 more A-bodies. And then trucks. And any other Chrysler product I could get my hands on. Eventually I bought my '66 Charger (with factory 361) which I own to this day. My daughter came home in the car. I don't think I could ever part with it. It is currently set up for daily driver duties and has a 1999 Dodge Ram drivetrain, complete with fuel injection and the overdrive automatic, but I am scheming to go back to a big block and add a four speed at some point. I now own and operate my own shop, and though we work on everything my real passion is fixing classic Mopars. We are currently restoring a '78 W200 crew cab. My most recent Mopar experience was acquiring a '55 Plymouth Plaza sedan - the car that brought me to this site. It showed up on a Facebook classic car group, and the gentleman wanted to trade it for a pickup. My offer of a (different) '78 W200 with a big block was the only real offer, and he agreed to trade. I loaded the Power Wagon on a trailer and towed it behind my '99 Ram (with a Cummins and its third automatic transmission) several hours down to Longview the back way - it was a little heavy. When we arrived, the gentleman hardly looked at the Power Wagon, and we set about making the Plaza run again after several years. The car had a Chinese electronic distributor, which hadn't been installed correctly, but even with that solved refused to make spark due to the pickup being trash. We found the original Chrysler distributor in the trunk, scraped the points and had the flathead running in about twenty minutes. I drove it around the block and loaded it up, and since bringing it home I have tinkered with it a good bit and driven it around town. The paint is faded and not the correct shade of blue, but the seats have been recovered and there is no rust to speak of, which is quite uncommon in this area. I'm used to getting looks in old cars, but the attention the Plaza brings is somewhat startling. The flathead purrs at this point, but strangely will not rev past about 2000 RPM. More on that later...
    1 point
  34. Thanks guys. This is the build that became my Bonneville truck "The Brick". 50 Dodge Frame 85 Diplomat K member 97 Thunderbird IRS 92 Dodge Dakota brake system (booster, port valves, etc) 408 stroker 904 trans http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15472 Pictures of the IRS I put in. If you look at the first pic, you'll see in the back ground a second frame I built for Bryan's late Hemi 48 truck. 48D
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use