Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. Alright. Easiest, cheapest an fastest way is to connect a DC to DC converter just before LED. Preferable circuits with large coil and condenser components. These are traditional low and high pass filters incorporated in converters for automotive use. Here is an example. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-15A-Buck-Adjustable-4-32V-12V-to-1-2-32V-5V-Converter-Step-Down-Module-DT/252586434129 Input will be between 6-7 volts and you adjust it to same output voltage. This way it only acts as filter. These can also be used for USB output (5V) and will protect phones, navigator and other electronics etc.
    2 points
  2. I had to rewire my 39 Plymouth last Summer. Old wiring was rotted and spliced many times. Instead of an original wiring harness, I opted to buy spools of good quality wire in 4 different gauges and re-wire it myself. I used a schematic of the original factory wiring, and had to trace some of it because of some bad splicing and different color codes over the years before I bought the car. I added two fuse panels and have every ciricuit fused plus a master fuse. If a fuse blows, I can locate the problem immediately. With the old system, I would have to probe different directions to find the problem. As I proceeded, I made a schematic of the new circuitry. I added separate high/low beam relays which allows the headlights to have full amperage (brightness). The bulbs are now halogen. The horn barely had any volume and now it's very loud by being on a separate fuse and relay. I added braided ground straps from the engine to body to frame. In conclusion, it's totally custom modified and most efficient. If you're not getting it back to original factory specs and modifying for efficient improvement and safety, I'd recommend replacing wires one at a time with good quality wire and proper gauging and add fuse panels and individual circuits. Use the original factory schematic as a guideline.
    2 points
  3. Thank you! Today, my son came over while I was working in the shop. Normal conversation while I tinker. Next thing I know, he's climbed behind the wheel of the 48, started it up and says "get in" so we go for a ride. At one point, about 2 miles down the road he said "I love this old car". At another point he makes the statement "I just wanted to go for a ride ". That's the kinda moments, one day, one or both of us will cherish! Making memories!
    1 point
  4. Related question: What are your recommendations for wiring components? Good quality wire, crimp terminals, fuse block etc? Seems that the wire available locally is too coarse, not enough strands, stiff insulation etc.
    1 point
  5. I would shoot for 2 - 3 degrees positive caster...any greater than that and you add a lot of weight aft of the kingpin and will be felt on the suspension as drag...beside I do not see you at 100MPH+....without power steering it is usually noticeable....however the trade off for tracking straight at speed is worth the small added effort to steer the beast....many forget than any tire not rolling when turning the steering wheel is increased due to the friction of the tire patch....some report some to no additional feel...some are stronger than others.....HRRRMPH....some say you don't need it at all but how many of them have actually done any alignments either? Camber, should be able to follow the book on that....
    1 point
  6. For what its worth there was another one by a dealer on US ebay on & off over the past 3-4 months for from memory, $6800 or close to that, it appeared to be a good original able to be used as is car........as mentioned they are a rarity but the 4dr sedan market is not real great so as others have said $7500 seems fair but you may have to negotiate.........looks nice tho'............here in Oz we only got the basic 4dr sedan and was based on the Plymouth essentially.......those Town Sedans are a neat car.............andyd
    1 point
  7. 7500 is more than fair. Insurance requested that we value our "regular" D24 4dr sedan at $10,800. Your car would be an easy 11 or 12K because of its relative scarcity in comparison. But there's just not a huge market for them. Yours is in about the same cosmetic shape as our car, and everything works on ours. I would recommend getting the brakes done before you sell, if you can, not that hard and folks always appreciate it more when a car is actually drivable (sometimes subject to interpretation). There are several valuation guides on the market (that are also subject to interpretation) that can get you pointed in the right direction for price. I used to go to Barnes & Noble, find a valuation guide, and look up a car in question. Then put the book back on the shelf. If I was hunting for something, I would get the book. But I'd also suggest keeping the car for a bit, you seemed awful excited about it for a while there. Nothing sez you have to have it on the road now, and later you may wish you had kept it. Of course that's contingent on storage space, etc. Just a thought.
    1 point
  8. Wish I could buy it but my wife would make me live in it! Your car is fairly rare. Dodge built far more regular 4- door sedans than town sedans. 7500 seems fair but I’d start a little higher. Just remember that these mopars aren’t as collectible as GM’s or fords so it may take longer to sell. There is a buyer for every car though. Good luck.
    1 point
  9. Mine point down. I think I'll leave them that way. Makes it easy to open and lock. Unfortunately the painter painted over the door lock. Right now the key doesn't want to go in. I need to take it out to clean the paint off, so I'll get it fixed up when I do that. In the mean time, took the wife for her first ride today and stopped at a local park for pictures.
    1 point
  10. Reading back a few posts, I mentioned towing my Chrysler to a car show. I forgot to post some pics. It was a great show. The parade the night before was a ton of fun. I had a blown alcohol big block dragster behind me the whole parade. People were gaping yelling “holy crap”. Grabbing their kids to pull them away from getting sucked into the blower. It was quite a parade. Never to be forgotten. I met some real nice Mopar guys who thanked me for bringing the Chrysler out to be seen. That felt good. These girls dropped by and let me take a pic in their period correct attire.
    1 point
  11. As Doug (DJ above) knows, I totally rewired my 47 Plymouth a long time ago with a customized Rhode Island Wiring loom. My car had an alternator, dual headlight relays, turn signal wiring, and lots of other changes from stock. I gave them a list of all of the changes, discussed the details of where everything was located, and they gave me several harnesses that dropped right in. Highly recommended. Marty
    1 point
  12. Just bought this WC-12. Named her Kittenfish. Can't wait to get her on the road!! First up is locking hubs. She's either got a 218 or 230 Flathead 6 and at some point will be getting dual carbs & headers. THEN a Lycock Model J Overdrive will be added. Just looking to do whatever I can to help her breath and work easier.... Would love to hear from any other WC 1/2 ton 4X4 owners who have done any of these mods!!
    1 point
  13. When I bought my truck the inside door handles were installed upside down. If you slammed the passenger door shut, the inside handle would drop down and self lock the door. When the passenger door is locked with the handle you can not unlock the door with the key. Luckly the drivers door was not locked.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use