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Got it running, now it's moving...now I just need to work on the "stopping" part! ? Spent the afternoon cleaning the interior and removing most of the hard water stains on the driver's side. Here's a final pic for this thread and them I'm off to research the brakes!!

I'll be going to look at a very nice looking Chrysler tomorrow. Here are some photos.

If it was in this country, I'll buy it immediately for $3950, with or without brakes

Holy Adams I will I am just at work right now. When I get home I will. Thought a quick thank you for every one would do till I had some time.

I agree about the brakes. I had the brakes done on my 1950 Plymouth about five years or 3000 +/- miles ago - new wheel cylinders, new linings, new Dot5 fluid etc. - and they’ve been great, even in a panic stop situation (thank goodness it’s only happened once). They’re about due for a checkup (as is the whole car) but they’ve given me no trouble whatsoever and I have always felt safe using the stock, original brake system.

So to fix my problem that I had with my truck and running rough and it was also losing power in 3rd gear. I went through the fuel system first I took my old fuel pump off and installed this one. Fuel Pump Then I ran new fuel line. 5/16 Cooper Nickle from Amazon Fuel Line I also rebuilt the carburetor. Carburetor Rebuild Kit not where I bought from but still the one. I had rebuilt it 2 years ago and was sure if it was gummed up or not. Actually I rebuilt it 4 times because I had to make sure the float was properly adjusted. I also when rebuilding it the first time forgot to clean the pump jet. I took it out and cleaned it. It was pretty gummed up. I then went and looked at the timing, plugs, plug wires and distributor LAY 4004C 1. I checked the pertronix ( or auto correct wanted to call it the Pepperoni) ignitor (Pertronix Ignitor in my truck ) and it was fine. I checked the wires and #3 was bad so I replaced it. I had botten new plug wires couple years back and they were for V8. The timing was off but I had been playing with it for a few months to see if I moved it left or right by a few degrees if the truck would idle any better. It did at first till I fixed every thing else. Now it is running at about 5 degrees advanced. Think book says +2. But it runs good there. But that is what I did to get my truck going. Off to see if anyone posted in my other post Buckets or Bench. What will fit and what to get them out of. Anyways thanks to everyone that helped me get this truck running and driving. Much appreciated

That’s a buy. Looks nice. Cheap easy way to get into a vintage car. Fluid drive I presume. Brakes on all these old Mopars seems to be one of the most misunderstood maintenance items among common owners. You found the right spot here to get help in how to address the brakes.

The 12" brakes on a 1950 Chrysler done right especially with old asbestos shoe linings are great! That is if you .....can...... do the job 100% right. I have a few 1950 Chrysler's that I've owned for 35 years or more..great brakes.

I've about decided these old brakes are never "the best"..... Enjoy your new ride, it looks great!

I did, This was response to a post from a few years ago sorry

I hope that you can bring it home. It's beautiful!

Tj....what a sweet car! It's beautiful. Congrats and best of luck!

The truck is now running. Thanks for everyone that gave suggestions on how to fix problems. I drove it to the first car show this weekend. So thank you

I found this scan in my files. As it turns out I have the rest of the parts manual to go with it. Strangely I did not scan the whole book when I did my other manuals. It will take me some time but I will scan into some form and let you know if you want a copy. Tony

Hi all, Here is some production data. These Kew trucks made in Kew England and then imported to Australia. I am not sure if they were complete or knock down form. I never had a lot of info on this series of trucks but I will have a look through some of my old hard drives and see what I can find. Unless it was too lost in the crash of 2011. Tony

When the OD is engaged, it locks out reverse. If that's your problem.

Found another tidbit of info

Front brakes! We'll put back linkage and wheels and have a rolling chassis again. We used ECI because the support team actually returned our calls and because we could get the conversion kit, duel master cylinder and related ?equalizing? valves all from a single sources. That means were going to have to get different wheels though.

Try patchboy.com. #17-501-OV. Brass oval stem, 1 1/2 in. for .625 hole. I have these in my '52 Dodge stock rims. Running Diamondback 215/15 radials for 5 or 6 years, and no problems. Bob

Take a photo with your cell phone. Then open the photo to view it. Then take a screen shot of the photo, as you view it on your phone screen. On the Ipone its easy. Then simply crop and save it again on your phone. Then you can easily ipload and.post that photo. It’ll be much smaller in size and be accepted. - K

I think you can purchase the needed style valve stems from either a tire shop or a truck place. Several people are running radials on original style rims. Be sure to check the rivets joining the wheel center and outer......wire brush the inside of rim for smoothness where tire contacts it....paint the inside of the rim so it can act as a sealer. There have been some previous posts on this topic. I use radial tubes in my tires as I dont trust my wire wheels to not leak. Have had no problems with that system. The radials definitely improve handling......just harder to turn at low speeds like parking.

If you are using your phone camera. I have found a free app which will reduce your photo size. Search for photo/picture resizer. I now have no problems uploading photos.

A few Amish communities in these parts, therefore lots of horse drawn buggies and wagons on the roads, leaving lots of this on the roads...what the locals call "road apples".

Part of the delay in this bed is I've been having too much fun with my new "project". However this one doesn't need much. Picked this up end of May and haven't done much other than drive it. I had to replace the battery cables and I swapped to some plymouth division hubcaps. 318 with push button auto and power steering

Box is getting a little closer. Got one angle attached today. Hopefully can get the other one on tomorrow.

This is 100% correct. Before you drive it, you will want to drop the pan and scrape out all the gum. To start and run mine, I put in Castrol 10-40. Then changed it again after running it a few hours in the driveway The gum will get sucked up into the screen, block your oil flow and ruin your engine. But this gum will need some drive time and really heat up the engine to break loose and let the modern oil clean it. 35 year old oil makes for a really hard sludge. Do not skip the step to drop and clean the pan, After you determine what you will do with the engine. Then when you are driving it, this question will create 10 pages of every bodies personal opinions on oil ... right now just clean oil and start it.

photo need to be 3 MB or less....todays digital camera by default exceeds this easily.....unless you are like myself and set your camera default to a smaller forum/board friendly size...you will need to resize the picture. Microsoft paint, standard with most all computers is the format I use to resize....

Awesome truck! Do you have a plan or vision for what you want out of it?

Yes, about 90% of 12v conversions use a GM 10Si alternator

of course they do. In over 50 years I have had one wheel which leaked around a rivet. The challenge is in getting brass valve stems which once upon a time came with oval washers for the oval stem holes. RV dealers and good tire shops can supply these.

This is a great question. Plymouth in 1952 was the first production car to feature tubeless tires. Looking at a number of older wheels you can see they were ready for them for years. What Plymouth called "Safety rib" wheels are needed for tubeless tires. If your rims have that feature you can try them. The only thing that could be a fly in the ointment are the rivets holding the centers. If the wheels leak at the rivets don't worry there are fixes for that. Not all car makers were as smart about "Safety Rib" wheels and tubeless tires. Hint: Look at present day photographs of surviving 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1s. Then look at the advertising and brochure photographs. You will note the survivors rarely have their original wheels. The ones that didn't have "Safety Ribs". Don't ask me how I know.

Below are the photos of the installation. I have no connection to the guys who sell the PCV. I would go read over their site real well as they have the engineering on the subject covered well. It is expensive, you bet. But, if you have ever been on a road trip and had a PCV fail and start sucking oil...I figured I was better off spending the $130 plus a rebuild kit and tossing that in my travel parts bag. The thing is working MUCH better then when I tried the "stock" PCV which I had from an industrial engine. It worked like crap. James. PS. I do not show it the photo but you need a filtered oil filler cap that can allow a lot of air to enter the crankcase.

I drive mine as much as possible in the summer. It just traveled from here to Vegas and back for a big show. That's a 500 mile trip on the highway.

I had the 'Big Ass Dodge' out yesterday for our annual "Woodward Avenue Cruise"!

Thankfully i can now say I’m driving my vintage Mopar. One year of Saturdays rebuilding everything from the radiator to the differential and she’s roadworthy once again. Smooth as silk in fact....

Almost 250 miles today. Drove to the New York state border and back. Why? Because it was there. Lunch in Bradford, PA. Pic in restaurant parking lot.

Drove my 48 as a daily driver for about 6 years before a ring gear swap and work travel schedule caused it to sit for about 18 months. Sold it a couple years ago and it is now in Florida. Handled the Dallas traffic just fine with the 230 and OD. With the wing windows and cowl vent the Dallas summers were somewhat bearable. Made multiple trips to the HAMB Drags in Joplin, MO about an 800 mile round trip each year. Now I have a new to me 37 with a 360/727 and A/C that is my daily driver. Without wing windows and the fact that I am getting soft, had to have the A/C.

Been driving my 51 often since finishing up the rear brakes. Drove it to work this morning; 4am. Heater on!

Oh thanks Knuckleharley ! I've always liked this year too. My first car as a high school kid in 1966 was one just like this one. I had been looking for it or one like it for more than 40 years and finally found one on Craigslist out of Spokane, Washington. The seller had owned the car since 1958 and I got the car with the old tires he purchased way back then. Complete with whitewall paint. Here's a photo of my first '33 Plym.

No, It has the original soft top. The roof is very dusty which is blending the 2 materials together. I've added dual horns now and a rear trunk.

I took this old buggy "Gussie" out for a ride over to my brothers house the other day. 12 hilly miles each way.

Just bought this 39 DeSoto a few weeks ago from Washington state. Had it delivered to San Francisco. Drive it almost every day. Need to adjust the emergency brake a bit but other than that, it’s a great driver. Nick

I purchased this 1941 Royal from a gentleman in Yakima, WA in December 2016 and had it delivered to me in the Tampa area of Florida. I drove my 1941 Chrysler Royal from Tampa to Connecticut in May 2017. I drive it 2-3 days a week during the Spring, Summer, and Fall while I am in CT. When I attend car shows, it receives as much or more attention than restored muscle cars. Once I get the issue of the FluidDrive not holding the high range shift (possibly lack of adequate vacuum), I want to drive it to Hemmings Motor News in Bennington , VT for one of their Thursday night cruises. The car is all original and sorted out just enough to keep it on the road.

Have had my '47 P15 since 1973. Gets driven occasionally. Engine is a 1957 model flathead 6 and still have 6V electrical system. Drives better nowadays since installing a set of www radials. Has new paint, new top and new interior following our big tornado in 2011.

I'm a fair weather driver. The '36 was stored inside an old garage from 1957 thru 2005, and hasn't been wet in 60 years. The '49 is a 40 year old restoration and leaks in lots of annoying little places in the rain. I just drove it today, and now it's in for an oil change.