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Haven't posted on this in a couple years but it's finally back on the road after a long stretch of dry dock. It developed a hideous noise that seemed to be coming from around the torque converter. After having the trans in and out a few times I decide to change it to a four speed manual trans and then realized it was not the trans but the LS motor devouring the rear cam bearing and the cam. So after much frustration and letting it sit for a while I sold off all the LS stuff and just bought a new base 350 crate motor from GM. Been driving it around for a few weeks now and finally seem to have all the gremlins out of it.

I used a good enamel rattle can and it's held up 7+ years.

This steering wheel cover is great on mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INTMG4I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you use a rattle can might I suggest an epoxy...….

Refreshing videos, thanks for posting. Their simple enjoyment of what we call hard work, but they call living always makes me appreciate what I have and where I've been. I bet those fellas have grips like a vice, all that work with their hands. The barrel making is interesting, that is still a cottage industry up here in "The County", many of the potato farmers here still harvest into, and store their potatoes in wooden barrels.

Putting it back together is not faster than taking it apart..... just a little cleaner ?

First phase completed... I’m thinking I can patch thinks up with fiberglass and possibly even get the texture close. This was a bit of thinking things out and measuring. Now as I look at it, it MAY look better (closer it peri/original) if I keep the cuts/ new sides straight but angular as opposed to curved around the cleaner ... but that does look more “custom”. More thinking is needed I suppose.

Thanks, I am trying to get it in shape to drive from Illinois to Florida.

Or rolled down........

Just means the glass is really clear

That’s what I’m doing except I’m keeping the flathead

Yes.

Welcome to the forum ! I owned a 58 Dodge Sweptside several years ago. Mine had the big back window, a push button auto, and a 315 V8 Poly engine and the rare Model 700 ceiling mounted radio. I'm still kicking myself for selling it. NOTE: the grill was from a 59. Hows about posting some photos of yours here .

I hate to see a man throw in the towel but I also know that time, space and money are often very limited resources. Selling a car apart is often a bit more involved in locating that one buyer needed. If you are not open to a quick drop in of the V8, then I would suggest a bolt on of the clip so the car has the "attractive value" of being whole and complete and often that is needed as many cannot visualize a car apart as one compete unit in their eye when kicking tires. Offering the intended v8 drive train as part of the package deal often is a plus. If you do not install the doghouse back on the car...I am afraid many lookers will walk away. Seems they do not mind taking it apart themselves...but to see if off the frame...turn off....many walk on just that.

Thought I would post up a recent pic. Everything I have dont lately isnt visible since it's been under the hood!

I went a cheap route and hit my horn ring with rust-oleum Wish I would have asked PA first but, it was good enough to sneak me into “back to the 50’s” this time without being laughed at ? LC, Please post the results short and long term

If you looking for a silver finish but not so much chrome..stay away from rattle cans and get yourself a early seventies accent trim paint Chrylser used that goes by argent silver. Now that is a weird name as argent means silver but nonetheless, getting this in a single stage enamel makes for a very durable and easily applied finish, absolutely stunning in contrast to almost any basic vehicle color. The secret of this paint is the slight amount of violent pigment that goes into the mix. Many argent colors do not have this pigment and without it you have just another baseline run of the mill silver. Last I had mixed was in Centari brand and that is NLA...again, the secret is the violet.

Thanks C054 I’m taking a break from making patterns for the interior rear window surround right now. The corner curves are pretty complicated 3d shapes but if I make flats that come back off the door lip like how they support the headliner I’m hoping to be able to pop it in the groove above the window and have it just held in by that and the pressure from the side pieces. Slow progress but the interior is coming out good. My wife even enjoys riding in it now. I also got some M&H DOT drag radials coming- 275/50-r17 and I’m looking at upgrading my $15 munroe stock replacement shocks with a set of rancho 9000 adjustables. Here’s a video of that holeshot I took it and zoomed in and slowed it down on iMovie. The super slo-mo is pasted twice at the end so you have time to watch the front tire and then the back tire. It looks like it tries to hook for a second as the slapper bars and shackles lift the chassis and plant the tires but then I get into wheelspin and it pourposes once before recovering into a steady rolling burnout. It’s a starting place.

I threw a chrome strip on the flange below the headliner. I wasn’t sure if it would look cheesy- it’s just 3/4” rounded plastic chrome with 3m double sided tape. It wasn’t much money so I gave it a shot. I think it actually gives a more finished look and matches well with the stainless brightwork. It also covers the spots where the edge was a little rusted and still uneven after cleanup and paint. I also got a pic of the new interior lights in action. I still have to mount and wire the doorjam plunger ground switches and hook them up to my 3 position switch but even having just an on off switch is a big upgrade and will be nice when I get home from work with stuff in the passenger seat and footwell.

I'd go plain vinyl between the rear window and the doors - that would keep the use on the diamond pleat consistent to panels on the doors and headliner and would tie in the plain vinyl window surrounds. I'd go with plain vinyl on the kick panels, too. Your drawings make me smile!

And a shot where you can see the door card with it too

Top panel is all done and installed. I’m considering painting the wood side pieces black and letting the diamond stitch be an accent and not everywhere you look.

A big step!

My buddy just got a fully optioned 2019 Ram1500 and I took a picture of my truck with it’s huge younger brother.

I went ahead and ordered the replacement parts from DCM they look like the bases are slimmer and they don’t have the pin holes all beat out or the roller knobs hanging on by a thread. They’re expensive but not bad like $30 each. Feels wierd to order correct-ish parts from a catalog instead of scouring the earth. This must be what it feels like to own a ford or chevy.

here's mine with all the sheet metal back on. Still have trim and interior to do.

as a follow up......I called a very well known and respected spring company and asked what the stock ride height is for the 48 Plymouth. He informed me that those specs are not known and that the springs they sell are based ONLY on the original blueprint and specs of the springs uninstalled and their +/- rates are derived from that information based on the spring data compared to stock specifications and that is how they arrive at the place/level a builder wants to be in respect to stock ride....again..he could not quote the stock ride height, back to square one and hopefully someone here with an old service bulletin may be able to shed some additional information on the subject. This very fact alone explains how many may arrive at different levels of +/- as the known value of their stock spring due to age and fatigue cannot be measured and compared to 'when new' ride height. What one person used to gain or lose in respect to height would probably be close to that of another user but cannot be assured across the board.

hope this helps