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I might be done eating the popcorn soon and have to start moderating.....

If I were to add to this thread you would really have some moderating to do. ? So I will keep my keyboard silent.

Just out tinkering today. Removed the body plugs and installed the trim pieces below the headlights. I really like the look. I need to pull them back off and have them chromed now so they match everything else.

This man loves his life......and is going to go down swinging.....Valhalla is waiting.

It is bemusing how some folks get their hackles up over the A833 vs T5 vs other transmissions debate. I just don't get it... Fargone, thanks so much for posting photos of the A833 swap. it's always great to see what you might be getting yourself into with a job like this. What tire size and rear gear ratio do you plan to use?

Look at your existing pulley's and belt ... is it a modern skinny belt, or do you have the old school fat tractor belt on it? My 1949 truck with a 1950 motor, the truck uses the fat belt, 5/8" but someone before me changed the generator and it has the skinny pulley 3/8" My pulley are mis matched in width ... as long as I run the skinny belt, it works on the wider pulley's ... but the wider belt would not work on the skinny pulley. You just have to measure and see what you have .... to many options over the years on a 70 year old car.

Please do not beat on that 'ol horse anymore...shes getting tired. If you want photos of a late 5-speed swap, look at my web pages. The AX15 and NV series will both require similar install.

I second the recommendation to install a voltmeter, that is the best way to diagnose charging problems and show the true condition of your battery. I installed one under the dash while troubleshooting the erratic generator/regulator in my P15 before getting tired of chasing problems and installing an alternator as the final solution. I had to search for awhile to find an inexpensive meter with a low enough scale to easily read 6-8v but found this one on eBay. You might also find one in the antique tractor community. Even though the alternator has proven to be rock solid I still find the meter a good way to confirm battery condition so it is still in the car.

Just read the thread, wow! Thanks for the pointer to how to referb the headlights

I'm amazed at the wiring under the dash. It looks brand new. Nothing at all is disturbed and only a slight bit of dust.

It is easy to get frustrated by some of this stuff. I know I did. The thing is that these seem so simple on the surface that everything should be easy. But there are many "little things" that can trip you up. I bet I had my carb off at least 6 or 8 times before I got it correct. And it was something small and not readily apparent. Bad step up jet. Changed it out and cleaned everything again and bingo no more problems. Have more than 20,000 miles on it now. Trust me the frustration fades away.......and a day does not go by when I know it was worth all the effort I put into it. Just gotta hang tough. Jeff

40mm Howitzer ? When you do not know what is wrong, prove what is right....after all these years...nothing can be consider the same condition after sitting for what would appear long time between runs. I would start with a compression test....I would verify that the valves are lashed proper, check you state of tune and yes pickup gap is important....no one here can shoot a magic bullet for you as they like myself have no first hand knowledge of these variables. This B2B (back to basics) just might locate a problem or even a multiple problem. You keep setting the timing every time you run this pup...with pertronix..set once...you done...

VW evidently had their own ships. I wonder what went on the return run? Maybe Wisconsin cheese! LOL

8-25-29: I thought this was cool. An old Diamond T with a Detroit Diesel pulling a bunch of old cars?

8-25-19: Drove the Meadowbrook to a local show because it was free, and no judging. About 70 cars showed up. There were just as many tractors, plus a petting zoo, bouncy houses, model train displays, flea market, food vendors, and an hour long parade. The weather was perfect. My car and this 58 truck were the only Dodges from the 50s. Sound familiar?

I think Dan Hiebert has the right idea. I might try the factory setting First as a baseline, then a degree more positive and if all is well then the second degree. If you're lucky to find an old timer, he's very likely already done a 1949-54 Plymouth several times and knows exactly what works. If I still lived in Southern California, I know exactly which alignment shop I'd go to.

My 48 Plm SD is running Hancook 205/75/15. The provide a very smooth ride. Joe Lee

I understand your position and know a lot of hype has been added about this transmission and in reality I would not do a retro to a flattie and would think seriously about transplanting this V8 with A833 into anything without first a complete teardown of the A833 and inspect the one integral bush for egging....notorious for this action and while it can be repaired...I read of only one company so far that entertains these repairs as a special jig is needed to do the machining. Other than the one integral bush the aluminum "A" is a smooth unit. You will be wise to get a Hurst shifter over that of the Inland if so equipped also...

Flipping quickly through the books I have - I think 1957 was the first year power steering was optional equipment. I wouldn't swear to it, but its the first year I can find it listed as optional equipment ($112 too! ).

Here ya go Radar...

That's almost a motorcycle and I just love motorcycles!!

Got my overflow installed today. I loved the old Coke bottle, but I needed a more functional catch can. Still need to tighten all the push rods another half a turn or so to cut down on the noisy valve train, but she sure is fun to drive.

Can’t ask for much more than that. If you are concerned about the rest of your wiring harness, I would disconnect everything on the engine side, set the battery close enough to run a jumper to the coil and starter. You don’t need to worry about the charging system or any accessories to get it running. By eliminating the ignition switch and wiring harness, you will know exactly what you are working with. All it needs to run is power to the coil, a good ground to the engine, and power to the starter to turn it over. This is a very simple video that explains the process.

Headed out the the Rattletrap Stampede at March Air Museum. It was 100 to 111 all afternoon. The truck ran hot but still maintained 70 mph for the whole 120 mile round trip. Great music and a pinup contest added to the show. I got a pic or two with the planes which I thought was really awesome!

And lastly as eye candy for the bed when she is cruising or at shows... A super cool barn find from my dads place. A 1935 Raleigh bicycle with rod and linkage brakes. She looks pretty good for almost 90 years old and just out of the garage. Gotta get her shined up and in the bed shortly.

Hank, I will now come clean. Here in the valley, drivers' do not have money, insuracne, driver's license, or maybe even citiizenship. If they see a nice truck like yours, they call their insurance lawyer and then drive into you. If they see me, they figure 1 no money, 2. no insurance, 3. AVOID!!!!!!