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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/16/2019 in all areas
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When there is an open circuit (not a completed circuit to ground) there won’t be any current flow. Without current flow the resistor won’t drop the voltage. Hence you have the same voltage readings at both ends. When you add another load (ie. the coil) to the circuit and current flows you will be able to measure the voltage drops across both loads. Or you would need to measure the resistance value, in Ohms, and calculate the voltage drop(s) using Ohms Law. Voltage = Amperage X Resistance (V = I x R)3 points
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3 points
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I like that EZ bend nicopp stuff for most applications. In the U.S. it's available at the performance shops like Jegs and Summit. You can also usually get it at NAPA. One brand I see a lot is AGS, but there are others. Seems like I have heard mostly about Canadian (crappy) Tire or Princess Auto, perhaps they have it. It bends easy-peasy and is acceptable for brake and fuel. Polishes up nice too if that's your thing.2 points
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as above but we folks that are a bit beyond the age for the daily labor workforce....make them rest and cool down period a bit closer together. The last line above....live by it, literally, stay hydrated. Drink long before you get thirsty if in the heat.2 points
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You’re getting in early Tim ? I had hoped to be there in 2020, but life (or my soon to be ex-wife) threw me a curve ball ? I’ll be in Canada early next year, but will certainly look at bringing my new life-partner to the 2021 BBQ. She’s just itching to drive my 53 truck when I get back on track again. well wishes to all my BBQ buddies.2 points
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Note to self...."bring grass from California"......uh, wait.... 48D2 points
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Insurance doesn’t cover vehicles so. , , I don’t put full coverage on. Oh well, learned not to have a shop cat!1 point
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Sam - someone posted that the front motor mount may be the problem. I replaced my front mount (the old one was a folded piece of radiator hose!!) with a new one. The rubber on the new mount was quite hard. It had the mounting bolts moulded into it, captured by the rubber, and I could not induce any movement of the bolts, as you maybe could do with soft rubber. For sure it did not pass the fingernail test. Replacing the front mount did not produce any vibrations at all; the 6 banger runs as smooth as a kitten. With that said, somehow I believe that something other than the new rear mounts is causing the vibes? Could something on the motor be touching the car frame or body? Or maybe the new mounts raised the rear of the engine enough that the drive shaft alignment is off now? Just for the heck of it, I might jack the rear wheels off the ground, start 'Ole Bessy", put her in gear, get under the car and feel around for the source of the vibes.1 point
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? None of the above. Key switch having three terminals can be installed 9 different ways. So AM and ACC or ACC and ST could be also be swapped. Logically, there is absolutely no reason for an engine to crank without ignition. One turn powers ignition, and everything else, the other way accessory mode, Map light, radio, etc.1 point
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Now don't be a old curmudgeon "Frank the Elder". I had mine engine rebuilt two years ago and have been runnig it without a filter. I've wanted to add a spin on oil filter for years. I've been inspired and almost finished, just filling the filter and then a oil change after lunch.1 point
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No no, grass (as in lawn)NOT “weed”. LOL and grab yourself some Hostas While your there they are plentiful and FREE! ?1 point
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Miss you Davin! Glad to hear from you and hear you're doing so well. WE'LL SEE YOU 2021 !!! You are a valued friend and hope everything continues to come up aces, brother! Tim aka 48Dodger1 point
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Come to think of it, I have seen ‘53’s done up in maroon and grey. This one was at Mopars in the Park in ‘09. (Got your back, Brent. ? )1 point
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Older thread. If you like a hard copy of this repair manual Rock Auto offers it for just over $18 (After discount code) plus shipping. I had mine in 2 days.1 point
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Some equipment like lasers and CNC can act up at temps over 100 and shut down when they reach their threshold, then your done for the day with that equipment. I worked all over and here are some of our lessons learned that we would apply when feasible: Shade and insulate to the extent possible especially on partly cloudy days when temps swings can change quickly. Create small climate controlled areas to work in, you would be amazed at what putting up a circular wall of plastic and a portable air conditioner will do in an opened area. If possible have cool rooms for workers to cool down in after working in high stress heat. 2-3 hrs work to 1-2 hrs cool down depending on temps and work required Cold air displaces hot air as most know that have multi-level homes and can be used to your advantage. And if you can't cool the area then barring ice vest or supplied are suit devices those gel-filed bandanas that you wet down and wear around the neck work like a radiator to cool your blood as it moves past them and are pretty cheap and reusable. As others mentioned adjusting the work schedule to take advantage of cooler night time temps when possible. Have plenty of fluids available with electrolytes to replenish the body at the work area or close by.1 point
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I had a problem kind of like that, changed condenser. Happened again, added ground wires, happened again. I cleaned the wires to the back of the AMP gauge. So far so good. You could just put a jump wire between the terminals on the gauge and see if it runs longer. Could be a be an oxidized connection at the gauge.1 point
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No more "barley pops" for you.... they are effecting your eye sight and memory.?1 point
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Here’s the full photo album.... http://s66.photobucket.com/user/mac2026/library/WPC 2019 Detroit1 point
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Also had a chance to meet Don Smith and check out his DeSoto Suburban. He stopped by and crashed the party too. I think his Suburban got more attention than some others “in the show”.1 point
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All I have ever seen are tan colored sun visor mounting brackets for 1951-53 trucks.1 point
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my 51 and 52 had the tan headliner with black seats, door cards and kick covers. both my 53's had grey headliner with maroon seats, door cards and kick panels but, that could have been a package change/ option1 point
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as far as I know the interior panels were the color they were regardless of year. Headliner/rear: tan Door panels/toe kicks: dark brown.1 point
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I put Hankook? radials on mine with no Problems. That being said, clean the rims inside real good with a wire wheel or brush and then paint them, paying attention to the rivet heads inside the rim. This is because on the original rims the hub piece is riveted to the rim section and that is where you will loose the air. Joe Lee1 point
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yeah...my garage is a bit large for that.....cost enough to cool the house.....BUT....when working the smaller items I do have the machine shop air conditioned....1 point
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I missed last year. I’m packed and ready to go. The fire pit the night before is the best, especially since we now have a charming host and HOSTESS.!!!1 point
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Years ago when I was young and silly I certainly worked into the early hours on the car.......I remember getting the 318 Poly installed and started finally early one morning, must have been 1 or 2 am.......we, myself, my brother and a mate had been working on it, I was 19, my brother and the mate would have been 17 so we were all bright eyed and bushy tailed.........lol...........anyway the engine was ready to go......and we started it up........no front sheet metal and no exhaust manifolds let alone an exhaust system and there were flames shooting 18" out of each exhaust port and the NOISE!!........YIPPEE!!!!......at 1 or 2 am.......... it was marvellous.....well at least WE thought so, my parents came down from the house which was above the garage and the source of the noise and politely asked that it stop............lol...............o/k.......so we did with smiles all round..........yep.............thinking about it, just typing this out makes me smile still, 45 years later.........I might not be young any more but silly?..........yep can still smile at that thought............regards, AndyDouglas1 point
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Make sure that all the plug wires are fully inserted into the cap. If not spark could not make the jump all the time. I also discovered that when timing the engine unlike almost every other engine I ever did do not disconnect the vacuum advance. i did that because I always have on points ignition and had a similar problem to yours. I reread the manual and discovered no mention of removing the vacuum line. I redid the timing and the problem went away. Runs great at all speeds and loads. Small things are important.1 point
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as Moak says...go to the pertronix site and follow their trouble shooter....you describing low voltage condition or improper coil volt/current range....you must follow their trouble shooter....1 point
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Pertronix has tests on their website you can do to see if the module is faulty or not. A simple test is to hook up a dwell meter on the coil, if you have a rock steady needle at about 38 degrees then the module is working fine. Have you checked the colour of your spark plugs? This can often lead you to your problem.1 point
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now that you have further defined your ignition system to that of electronic...lets go one step further and call the name of that set up. There are some factors regarding set up on a couple of these that will cause snorting wheezing popping and blowing of the mind...1 point
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It sounds like you are having issues under load. Do you have good clean tank and lines? Are you getting a good supply of fuel to the carb under load?1 point
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Can't say about the timing and firing order. Either you have it correct or not. One thing I can tell you is that these modern fuel formulations are crap. I drive my 52 B-3- C daily and I treat just about every tank full with 4 to 6oz. of MMO. If I don't I start having issues fairly quickly. As long as I remember to dose the fuel it runs just fine. That is all the proof I need. Jeff1 point
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Have you pulled the distributor out, check the vacuum advance is working, also is a short wire in there that can lose it's cloth insulation, ground out on you. I like falco's idea, I would just go a bit further and check the dist at same time.1 point
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I had a similar issue on a Rambler; the wire that went from the coil to the points was brittle and cracked and was shorting out to the distributor body where it went through the hole. Replaced wire from points to coil along with a new rubber grommet.1 point
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Agreed. #1 wire may be correct and timed perfectly but two or more other wires may be out of sequence. My father in law once had the wires in the right sequence but in the wrong direction. He had the sequence correct going counter-clockwise but the rotor went clockwise. Car ran but only with idle set up to a high rpm. Sequence is 1,5,3,6,2,4, and rotor goes in clockwise direction. Regards. Title of your post "Fed Up" reminded me of this same father in law....he used to say, "Before I was married I was always hungry, ...now I'm fed up."1 point
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I'm not an expert, but, your problem sounds like one I had awhile ago; found out I'd mixed up a couple of the plug wires when I put it back together. Changed 'em back to where they belonged, and all was well. I could not believe I'd done that, since I thought I was being careful when I put 'em back together. Guess not. ?1 point
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Since the topic is "from the driver's seat" and since I just got a setup I am comfortable with posting new videos to, here is some footage from last march that might be of interest: https://video.fitchfamily.org/videos/watch/0a9fd5e9-0501-4310-8981-d7370e2b4d4f1 point
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