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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/10/2019 in all areas

  1. Thanks. I do quite enjoy driving, showing, and talking about my Windsor around these parts. So far I have yet to see another at a show I have attended.
    2 points
  2. I love the fluid drive, I wouldn’t swap it for anything. If you feel like being all “farmer brown” and stuff, you can run her through the gears... but if your working on a burger and shake driving her around town, it sure comes in handy. And synchro shmynchro... I feel very noble and at one with my late Granpa when I take ten seconds to double-clutch coax her into the next gear.
    2 points
  3. Thanks Todd... that’s like having the hottest girl you ever had a crush on but were afraid to ever approach, tell you a few years later, after you’re unequivocally not allowed cause you’re all married up and stuff, that she use to “want you so bad” a few years ago. In both instances, I could have lived without the “few years ago” reflections. (Wow! Did I just really make that analogy for my hood emblem?!? That’s just not right!)
    2 points
  4. keithb7, Watch out for this little wire in the distributor that I have highlighted. It carries juice to the points and if it is close or touching the distributor housing as this one is, it will rub the insulation through and short out and cause the engine to die out due to the movement of the breaker plate when the engine is running. It can drive you nuts when it happens if you are not familiar with it. I leaned this the hard way on a winter night at 5 degrees. (I am shivering just thinking about it)? John R
    2 points
  5. A friend contacted me to tell me he saw my Chrysler and I on someone’s You Tube channel. A person unknown to me had asked me a few Q’s at a car show in June. Here we are. Jump to the 2:19 mark. I had a few people talk to me who were really, really into my old Windsor that day. It was a good day. I kinda feel special now. Lol. https://youtu.be/NgrpR17TKNA
    1 point
  6. Will definitely post an update, hope it is a good one. ? This is my second go at fixing the leak. First time the bellhousing and retainer gaskets were replaced but the leak was as bad as before. Upon teardown this time it was obvious the oil was coming through the retainer gasket and possibly out the forward end of the retainer. This car has had a significant leak for a long time based on the buildup of crud in the area. This time I'm added the sealant to the repair, really don't see how oil can escape this time. Both sides of the retainer gasket got a thin coat of sealant and there was squeeze out all the way around the retainer. The only other place I see where oil could leak is at the upper shift rail and the big gasket will get some sealant in that area when the tranny is reinstalled. The lower shift rail already had a plug and it and the countershaft got a dose of sealant. New motor mounts arrived today then we'll find out if the repair worked.
    1 point
  7. Hey Frank, NO CATS!!! I’m going to try and start the engine: ATC in the pistons, aux fuel tank, check the points, hot battery, spray the carb with a cleaner, water in the, radiator and go for it. Maybe change the oil. Any suggestions?
    1 point
  8. Electric Conversions are more of a thing now that salvage Tesla and Nissan Leaf parts are becoming avaliable . Tesla motors can be reconfiguired to replace a conventional Engine & transmission https://www.electricenvy.com/?fbclid=IwAR2tA7oifTGuDk9ihTCroLZVIAcYObtYM7QOfzZk_FbPxLIEFGtzaM5J4z8 I have converted my 1973 LandRover to EV and is a huge success, done 8700km over the last 2 years, now 100% reliable and outperforms gas in every way. The value Regenerative braking alone is worth it. for those interested the build is here http://goingbush.com/ptev.html Im so happy with it I'm considering converting our otherwise original '49 Pilothouse . I know a guy in NZ is also converting a '41 WC12 to EV.
    1 point
  9. Your Windsor is a beautiful car and you should be proud of it!!
    1 point
  10. You do realize that I said the scumbags are ransoming the emblems at $600 for a SET, right?? Man, you just took it to a whole other level!!! Although, my favorite number is tree-fiddy, if you happen to find one in the bottom of your parts bucket. ?
    1 point
  11. Right next to the Mini DoNuts.....lol.
    1 point
  12. correct, the threads just provide the clamping force.....the threads only need to be as deep as they are wide for proper torque.....rule of thumb is one diameter deep in steel, two diameter deep in aluminum...
    1 point
  13. you cannot use a 218 or a 230 crankshaft in a 201 because the main bearings are significantly larger in the 218 and 230 The 34 engine stands alone because of the water jacket issue and the cylinder head and gasket is narrower too, The 34 engine can use pistons ,crankshaft, valves , chain and camshaft from other 201s, not sure about the oil pump but it is a good bet that it will fit. I agree with the advice from thebeebe5 above
    1 point
  14. Frank, I selected an exquisite JB Weld product from the auto restoration department of Lowes. This stuff starts firing off in about 5-6 minutes so I only mixed up a one-inch long bead each time. My steering wheel was in pretty good shape, the only large cracks were on the back side. A Dremel was used to open up the cracks so the epoxy could be forced into the cracks. To facilitate that process masking tape was firmly applied over the epoxy repairs to help it flow into the wounds. After an hour the tape was removed. Even though the epoxy was a little tacky it sanded very easily with 120 sandpaper. After some quality time priming and sanding the repairs and entire wheel, it received several luscious coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black and the paint is curing in the warm shop as we speak. Reassembly is complete and the ol' girl should be back on the road and no longer insulting her driver by gifting smudged hands.
    1 point
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