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A friend contacted me to tell me he saw my Chrysler and I on someone’s You Tube channel. A person unknown to me had asked me a few Q’s at a car show in June. Here we are. Jump to the 2:19 mark. I had a few people talk to me who were really, really into my old Windsor that day. It was a good day. I kinda feel special now. Lol. https://youtu.be/NgrpR17TKNA

Hi all - A couple of us Northeast Region forum members are putting together a classic driving tour event and we want to invite anyone in the area to come along with us. At the moment we have about 10 cars signed up, coming from Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, and New York. Our plan is to rally our cars in Bennington VT on Saturday mid day. We will be touring the Hemmings Collection, and making stops at a few local sites along the way to the Saratoga NY area (about 50 minutes apart). Saturday evening will be spent together at a local motel where we can circle the wagons and tailgate. Sunday will be spent at the Saratoga Auto museum touring and taking part in their open invitation car show. If you want to hang out with a nice group of people and tour with us, we'd love to have you along. We are not charging anything for attendance, expenses are whatever limit you chose to set. We will have a hotel chosen within the next 24 hours and will send word on that asap. please drop me an email or call if you want more info or want to be added to the email that we will send with details. Oh, and if the event sounds familiar, that’s because our friend Robin Weathersbee has kindly lent the name of his wildly successful “P15 picnic UK” to myself to get this off the ground and well supported. Robin has kindly created and lent the logo and artwork to us as well. I am truly grateful for his support and continued encouragement. Robin I’m looking forward to seeing you in Athens UK on the 28th of September. thanks, Mark

let me run my flag of qualification up the pole.....

? Climate change ?

Criminal, eh? It's not torn...just a little dirty.......the oil keeps it soft and pliable.....

JackTruck - look at the auction site “Bring A Trailer” (“BAT”)... three B series trucks were auctioned in the past year or so. One brought 17k+, one brought 14k+ a couple of weeks ago, one fizzled out and didn’t sell a couple days ago at 8k+ They were all nice drivers... nowhere near show, but far from spiderweb rust buckets. It’s an odd market. They seem to be worth twice what they were, say three years ago. But there’s a wide range and not that many solid comps out there. You can find a nice solid driver out there for $5k and trucks that are usable “canvases” for rebuilds for 1k to 2k. But you can also find average drivers listed for 3k to 12k, and nice restores 8k to 25k... then you see frame-offs for 35k to 40k. But none of those numbers mean anything unless you know the final sale price... i.e., BAT, EBay, Mecum, Barrett, etc. So, short story long, depends on who wants the truck when you offer it for sale. I know, I said a lot without giving you any real answer, but I follow this pretty closely, and that’s what I’m seeing. Best - good luck.

In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.

Are you sure it's not a metric thread? An M5 screw would have a 0.8 thread pitch, which would be pretty close to a 27TPI measurement. And 0.18" converts to 4.57mm. A 4 mm screw would have 0.7 threads. I don't have all of those size thread pitch gauges on hand right now, but I did have a 27 and a 1.0 in my desk and they are pretty close. The 1.0 is slightly off from a 27, when I hold them tooth to tooth. The fit is similar to holding a 27 and 28 gauge together. This makes be believe the 0.8 metric pitch may be pretty close to a 27.

One tired elephant.

Ok I think i found it in this heater package. What do you think? Part lists over 10 different heater packages

All levity aside you must remember that Chrysler was famous for hoarding older parts and then upon running out of the "correct" part they would use the old parts until the new shipment of correct part arrived on the line.

I did not imply that you implied that you said it was pre war only, it was only a simple observation that mine is similar to yours but of a different era. Now what are the implications of that....lol. EDIT. I wonder if it has a military connection, the power wagons and M-37s have different equipment on these engines than their civilian counterparts.

done for now, primed and painted...what's next on the list?

The short (but most accurate) answer is that the truck/parts are "worth" what someone will pay for it. The buyers actually set the worth not the seller. The seller can ask whatever he/she wants for the truck/boat/ used ladder, etc. but the buyer determine the worth to him/her in the end. The previous answers were correct in that a disassembled truck is a pile of parts and, historically, that pile will not bring as much as an assembled running truck. Now all you have to do is figure out what someone will pay. Come up with a realistic number and list it. If the phone does not ring then you set the price too high. The people on this forum are great fans of old Dodge trucks. Their numbers are far less than a 60's Mustang forum, for instance, and the market reflects that.

USA and U.K. Picnic's! Way cool! Lots of photos of both please

by your ad your dress code is too formal...…..hope you have a great turn out....I would like to host another event but all but a couple folks are moved or out of the mopar business or...…….!!

I used them to facilitate the building of my dual carb throttle linkage, and for fastening my battery ground strap not yet attached in this pic but you can see the threaded head near the thermostat opening.

This should help you decipher the info you have. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Then and Now Automotive has excellent fuel pump rebuild kits, and their customer support is top notch. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ I even had a pump that I couldn't fine any good identification marks on. I was able to send them pictures and they identified it and told me which kit to purchase. That one is now my 'back-up'/'spare' pump. Also, on my pump there is a long stud with the wing nut at the top for my heat shield. This never comes with a new pump. If you purchase a new pump you would need to remove the long stud and put it in place of one of the cover screws on the new pump. I would highly advise against a new pump, and instead opt for rebuilding the current one with a kit from Then and Now. New pumps have a tendency to have their pivot pin walk out over time. The kits from Then and Now have a new pin with retainer clips to prevent this.

If you lived near NC I have a 270 poly you could have. I appreciate that. Unfortunately I am here in Indiana so too long of a drive at this point, But, I will keep that in mind!