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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/16/2019 in all areas

  1. In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.
    1 point
  2. I have posted this before, the bias ply tire will by rolling effect transfers it contact patch rearward at speed.....the radial will not...thus the need for positive caster. IN PART: Non-radial tires had a tendency to distort at highway speed so that the contact patch moved back past the centerline of the tire (Picture a cartoon car speeding along, the tires are generally drawn as eggshaped). The contact patch generally moves behind the caster line causing, in effect, a positive caster. This is why, when you put radial tires on this type of car, the car wanders from side to side and no longer tracks straight. To correct this condition, re-adjust the caster to positive and the car should steer like a new car. the complete white paper: http://www.valleyofhastings.com/WheelAlignment2.pdf I do not think the average tire guy in the business today truly has seen bias ply tires and know the rolling characteristics compared to radial..radials have been with us since the late 40's but truly only came into being in the US in great number on new cars until the 70's most were all onboard by 1980. so with that in mind the average years of radials in America is some 39 years. I was fortunate to have known a real great front end alignment man who in just a couple minutes explain the difference and correct my driving issues in 1975 on my car when I went to radial and poor handling. His tuning my suspension the very catch phase of X car advertising of radial tuning was simply a change in caster to that of positive over neutral or negative caster. Tire company employees are not on the average up to speed on alignment issues.
    1 point
  3. I thought I would re-visit this with you all on what I ended up doing. I went ahead and bit the bullet and purchased 2 NOS u-joints from Bernbaum. Roberts was out of stock. I figured if it was good for 71 years, it should last the few more years I have it, especially since these are greasable. The old ones are not. Its been 30+years since I've serviced u-joints but it all went pretty smooth. The cause of the "PING" I was hearing came from the rear u-joint. Fortunately they weren't dry yet and wasn't squeaking. The two caps attached to the drive shaft were starting to wear. Sorry for the poor picture quality but you can see the wear marks on the left side. Both caps were like that but the caps the with the bolts were not wore. The front u-joint was in much better shape but I replaced it also. Anyway, no more PING when starting out. Cleaned up the drive shaft and we're rolling again. I do need the correct torque setting for the bolts/nuts. According to the manual its somewhere between 18 and 38 ft lbs, I couldn't decipher what? I would suggest dropping the drive shaft and cleaning/greasing these u-joints if the don't have zerks so you don't have the cost of replacement, if you can find them. Tom B.
    1 point
  4. What are you saying? It's obviously a different car, just a similar exhaust setup.
    1 point
  5. I do! But I plan on running them on a belt sander a bit for piece of mind. Thanks
    1 point
  6. I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources.
    1 point
  7. Whatever you do, take lots of pictures as you disassemble things. I mean LOTS and from as many angles as you can. Never think, "I'll remember how that goes together." I learned that lesson the hard way many years ago. Now I document everything with pictures and still write notes to myself at the same time. The longer something is left the less you can rely on memory.
    1 point
  8. I've been looking for a set of C-clamps for my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe for months now. They don't come with a U-joint kit and they are not parts commonly carried by parts dealers, including Andy Bernbaum. These are the little parts that without them, the car don't go! Where I laid my C-clamps when I removed them some 35 years ago, I can't say. Some people told me about junk yards with 1940s Chryslers and DeSotos, but I found that beyond taking your name and your wanted parts, they are not any help. At least not for just some fasteners under a car. The president of the DeSoto club said he had a 47 DeSoto parts car, but when he went out there to get the parts, he found that the car had no drive train. So after advertising in several old car venues, DodgeB4ya, contacted me with the parts he had taken off of a 47 DeSoto coupe over 30 years ago. Thankfully, he saved them and even cleaned off 70 years of grime before shipping them to me. I got them today and gave them a quick spray job using Rustoleum Hammer Finish because I happened to have it handy. I bought that spray can to refinish a Comfort Master heater which has that same hammer finish. So thanks Rob! Marc.
    1 point
  9. 10th anniversary party for my tattoo shop was tonite at Neshaminy Creek Brewing Co. My band played and a few others- I went in style!
    1 point
  10. How about a picture of you pedaling your fire truck around your yard?
    1 point
  11. You are perilously close violating the ban on trading parts on the open forum. Remember, any such activity needs to be done through the classified ads section or via PM.
    0 points
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