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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2019 in all areas

  1. Just didn't want to work the way it was suppose to! IPS support (the forum software vendor) got it sorted out the site back online.
    4 points
  2. In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.
    2 points
  3. Just your local neighborhood DeSoto V-8 pickup!
    1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. I think I said it first in post 12 and I will stick with this based on your description of the series of events...now if you left out some other important facts.....then we back to TS101
    1 point
  6. I have been struggling with the same thing for 11 months and may have got to the bottom of it. The two jumper wires in the distributor are woven cloth covered. they must have been the originals. After looking very closely, i found a bare spot where one had grounded on the inside side of the distributor. The other one flexes slightly when accelerating and too had lost its insulation at the bend. I had tried EVERYTHING. New coil, metal threaded spark plug wires. New points, condenser, plugs, rotor and cap. The coil i bought was a flamethrower from pertronix for 6v and had to have special ceramic thingiy in the line to the coil. all new wiring everywhere into the switch. Then I saw these two wires in the distributor. Taped them up and the car did great!!! I have since replaced the whole distributor with a spare i had that had been rebuilt 50 years ago. I tuned it with a vacuum gauge and it starts and runs flawlessly now. Timing light was useless compared the the vacuum gauge. The whole point of my story is it probably something really really simple. just keep working thru the pieces one by one. keep a record of what you have replaced. I wrote down everything that was involved and checked it off as i went thru it. I have pulled out almost every hair (and there isn't much) on my head. If it were not for the help from this group, i would not have got thru this. You will get it! Don't give up
    1 point
  7. Just because you can...……………………..doesn't mean you should!
    1 point
  8. If you are re ringing only, you want the ridge gone. If you're going to bore it, then leave a little. It won't matter if you damage rings or pistons. Beating them out with ridge remaining can sometimes break ring lands on the piston. New rings on the same piston won't travel any further in the bore than the old ones did. The difference is the new rings will have sharp edges and probably fit in the ring grooves tighter so the possibility of them coming up against the bottom of left over ridge and breaking new rings or ring lands on the piston exists. Most machinists will automatically bore to .030 over for a first time bore. Almost every engine will clean up at that size if it's salvageable. While many will clean at .020, you may find one cylinder that doesn't and you don't want a mismatched set if possible. Yes, it's been done as has grinding a rod bearing down an additional size. For assembly ease, don't mix and match.
    1 point
  9. In addition to the coil. I'd check the distributor cap and wires. look for corrosion or cracks. The wire contacts where they plug into the cap should be clean without oxidation etc. I recently had this problem with another car. I installed new wires and a cap and problem solved.
    1 point
  10. Coil failure was a problem on some Fords back in then 80's and 90's My neighbor ran his own repair business in his garage and I know he changed out several of the them That did the same thing you describe. I had forgotten about it until the other posters mentioned it.
    1 point
  11. I'd love to have one of those with the nice interior and GLH engine!
    1 point
  12. ...........Amen!
    1 point
  13. That's an interesting question. I've got the Speed Box app on my iPhone that I've used to check speeds compared to speedos. It's a simple speedometer app that uses GPS tracking, but I was unsure if it also used cell data. So I just performed a test. I took a walk outside and it tracked me at 2-3 MPH. I then put the phone in airplane mode and turned off the wi-fi, so there would be no way to connect to the internet and use data. It still tracked my walking at 2-3 MPH. So, it would seem that it doesn't need to use any data stream to function.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. good call…...But looking at the parting line on the hood I am guessing hood is off the hinges and thus strapped to keep it in position while they rip off a buyer, eeer sell this vehicle. Anyway, this is my take on the crime scene
    1 point
  16. Is that strap holding the fender up or the hood down? Or both?
    1 point
  17. check your coil, though it runs good cold, it will overheat if on the way out....it will die and later restart when cold. You can still see a light amount of spark but it is not strong enough to fire a lean engine...
    1 point
  18. May or may not help
    1 point
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