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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/19/2019 in all areas

  1. If you mean which limit of tightening torque, there is no torque specified. If you mean how deep: Just screw it down until it stops and torque it "hand tight". Do not apply too much force.
    2 points
  2. Made it to the half way mark last night Billings MT. Ate at “the thirsty turtle” in “ big timber” Got 12.7mpg coming over the mountains in the 3500. beautiful country though ?
    2 points
  3. Yes... yes i was... Owner of a Lonely Heart... LOL!!
    1 point
  4. Merle, are the Fuzzy Dice digital or analog?
    1 point
  5. Ditto Andydodge's reply. The door adjustment for closing is via adjusting the striker block that's on the door pillar, not anything you can do with the mechanism in the door. I suggest a thorough cleaning of that mechanism, it is pretty grungy, and built up crud can impede the positioning of that star. Removing it would be the best option. It can be cleaned while still in the door, but in my opinion not quite as well as if removed.
    1 point
  6. I thought the North Dakota state tree was a telephone pole... Pete
    1 point
  7. Ha... I’d have to go back and listen to it again. It’s whatever Sirius Classic Rewind was playing at the time. Everything is on suction cups or magnets so it can be moved easily during shows.
    1 point
  8. Here are the correct factory Knobs on 1946-48 Chrysler...
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Mark..........its surprising how many old cars have that ventilation option yet its not mentioned on any list of factory options.........must have been a dealer installation via letting the cars sit uncovered in open paddocks or fields prior to making the trip to the new car lot............lol.........andyd.
    1 point
  11. The door adjustment as far as I know is on the door pillar by loosening the striker plate screws..at least thats how the adjustment was on the 1941 Plymouth Coupe I had worked......but just be careful not to undo completely or remove the screws as I found there wasn't any "captive" nut plate and I nearly lost the plate into the pillar........andyd
    1 point
  12. The shifter in post #4 will not work on an overdrive transmission. I could not find a manufacturer for this. I have designed and fabricated a shifter, I have it installed but haven’t Road tested it yet. Will do such this fall. It is for the stick three on the tree, car or truck, with or without an overdrive. The photo is an “under construction “ picture. It is proving to be a very exacting mechanism, thus road testing an absolute must.
    1 point
  13. Bigger ball under the slotted brass screw plug... little ball in the pump plunger well.
    1 point
  14. I agree Merle, for new application and foreign cars/bikes...NGK is the go to and has been for many years..Champions are best for throwing at the neighbors dog to keep him out of your yard...
    1 point
  15. Got a little help today which was really nice. The trans just fits under the truck lifted as high as my jackstands go, then it has to get slid on the jack while it’s under there. It fits up through the exhaust farther back then can get slid up into position. Then it sat on the exhaust for a second to get some boards between it and the jack for a couple more inches max lift. It mated up pretty easily to the bell then spinning it around was a pain in the butt while I started the flexplate to torque converter bolts, then again to torque them. Speedo cable, kickdown, properly indexed shift cable, and starter with a new blanket on it all went on without a fight. The old small pinion yoke needed some love from a propane torch before the impact started unscrewing it, then I forgot to put a pan under it when I knocked the old pinion yoke free. Only lost a pint or so of gear oil. Torqued the new one on with a dab of red loctite- made much easier with the crush sleeve eliminator kit in there instead of a crush sleeve. I still have to fill the trans with ATF before I set her down but I have high hopes it will all work! Happy father’s day fellas
    1 point
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