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mirrors in "work" position, packed and loaded up, pulling out in the morning. taking I-90 to I-94 (Spokane to Billings to Bismark to MN) if you live on the route and see us passing thru, give a honk and a thumbs up so I know it's someone on the forum.

I used Nickel copper lines and found them easy to use with one word of caution...bend them slowly and carefully as they love to kink if you even look away for a moment. They bend without complaint but if you move to fast they will kink. Also be careful when doing the flares as they are soft and again slow wins the day. Good Luck! Here are some pics of mine: ( note I routed the front behind the transmission and then up the frame rail rather than in front of the engine as stock)

Happy Father's day to all the fathers out there! So the shifter knob that was on my 48 was not original, it was a big aluminum knob and with each drive, was getting looser. I though the previous owner told me he had the original knob when I bought the car. Luckily, he didn't throw nothing away. The car came with boxes of parts. Including a bunch of new parts not yet installed like a whole box of different wiring harnesses. Anyway, I dug through the boxes and found the original shifter handle. And found why it's not on the car. The threads were completely stripped out. pulled the aluminum handle off and it's not got the correct thread size. It was held on by wrapping the shifter with Teflon and other tape to make a tight push on fit. thought I'd try a heli-coil in the original shifter. Worked great! Nice and tight and should be better then new as far as holding force. took the 48 to the auto parts to buy the heli-coil kit Friday, then to the local cruise in Saturday evening.

No piloit houses but some interesting mopar and paint work. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ejn36QabYQyTm1q7

It was a joy to drive, even at such low speeds. The kids couldn't wait to pile in the cab and go along ?

If it was mine, I may think about filling the bed with fresh cow manure. Just to keep people away from it, and me Just drive the crap out of it. Thats just me though Love your work and results

Thanks Keith I am looking to do a faithful restoration using original parts. It's a survivor and we only paid $325 for it back in the day. I figure I can put a bit more in it to get it back on the road

Thank you for the advise

Just drill or grind the head of the screw off..

I performed a similar test with an IR thermometer. My temps were all over the place too. I suspect its too sensitive and takes a pinpoint reading very accurately. There are going to be hot spots. The coolant flows past those hot spots and draws the heat away. I suspect a more realistic measuremememt of the coolant temp is as it flows past a sensor. Sort of like a rock laying in river bed. The volume of water flowing around it, mixing as it flows. Giving an average reading. Not a laser pointing at various pinpoint areas of hot steel or aluminum on parts the engine. That’s my theory. My findings are here:

There is a military 1/2 ton 4x4 that is a WC 1941 & 1942 and 3/4 ton military 1942 - 1945 WC' s. The civilian WC ' s are 1941 - 1947 1/2 tons . Vintage Power Wagons is also a good place to get parts . www.vintagepowerwagons.com

Yes pin was used since 1936 according to my part list. There is a tool for easier removal occasionally sold on eBay.

Hopefully some pictures

Hi guys, Lots to say... The car was nowhere as near to running as it was supposed to be... The motor was seized and when broken free the cylinders were very badly pitted. The motor wich was not original to the car was the smallest of the 25.5 bloc, a 4 1/16 stroke 218 so i did not feel like it was worth my time to rebuild. I found an industrial 265 out of a portable water pump to replace it. That motor turned out to be in GREAT shape with everyting perfect exept for a borderline timing chain. So I will be using it but... I cant leave well enough alone... So I will be putting a triple carb intake, dual exhaust, HEI ignition, more compression and reground cam I am VERY lucky to have a local shop with lots of NOS parts where I found a new timing chain and 10 inch clutch disc and pressure plate that bolt directly on my 218 flywheel ( wich I will lighten ). So now I have a few parts out for powder coat and still waiting for the cam but should be reassembling very soon More to follow.

I found some of these and they were delivered today. Do I just have to take them to the DMV and they register it to my vehicle? Or is this not possible?

Francois, We seem to be taking a similar approach on our 265 engines! Walt

I done the math, figured out the speedometer ratio adapter needed with the 3.55 gears. Come out to 1:1.3333 so I ordered it this week. Now the speedometer is right! The wife and I went crusin and stopped in for a banana split at the local mom and pop dinner.

Sound like you need to rebuild the accelerator pump......and make sure all the internal passages are clean. That is where I would begin at any rate. Jeff

The wife and I was running late to the cruise in due to weather so we put the 48 on the interstate with the 3.55 gears. Something we wouldn't attempted with 4.11 gears. We run 62 to 65 mph, not to bad, stayed in the right lane and actually passed one car! Ran into light rain. One thing I didn't document yet, the windshield, vent windows and some of the window weatherstrip was bad when I got the car so I had the windshield and vent windows replaced with new glasses, the weatherstrip for the windshield, vent windows and weatherstrip on the rear glass replaced with steele products rubber. There's still a little water getting in from the window laces, guess that's next. The 3.55 gears are proving to be a good move. It's getting hot down here in Mobile! Looks like quite a challenge to put ac on a 6 volt positive ground car! Gotta hurry with the 58 plymouth for this weather! Once the sun went down it was nice.