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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/10/2019 in all areas

  1. I entered my car in a local arena car show last weekend and to my shock it took home a peoples choice trophy. There were about 60 to 70 vehicles, some in amazing high quality condition, and my car came out a winner among them. It was the first time I had ever entered a vehicle in a show and it was certainly the first time the car had ever been entered by anybody. I got the car this year and spent a tonne of time and energy attending to every detail that needed attention. Looking at the car when I got it and looking at it now Im sort of impressed myself how far it has come. And of course Im hooked on the shows now. I showed the car for the 2nd time yesterday, however that show was a model specific show with an open invitation for all cars to attend meaning there were no awards available for anything other than specific models, namely Firebirds. still fun nonetheless.
    9 points
  2. Don Coatney Jason Hoffman and his girlfriend Tamisha Matus drove my Plymouth to Fort Wayne for a nice visit. Also with Todd Bracik, Bob and Wanda VanBuskirk, Keven Reeves and his wife Kristin Reeves.
    1 point
  3. The front sills on my '48 were completely shot, coming all to pieces. The rear sills which are either original or repops are still in good condition. The price of new sills was cause for hesitation so I decided to try to come up with alternatives for the front sills. Here is the material I ended up using: The vendor markets this rubber mat as running board material, I never could find it as a generic product. A 3' length of the 18" width is just right for splitting to make two sills. I used a pry bar to pop the old sills loose, the rubber is vulcanized to a metal base. Barbed pins on the bottom of the base snap into rubber grommets in the body sill. The old base could be used as a pattern for the new sills but I used poster board to customize the pattern. After the pattern was fabricated it was used to cut galvanized metal sheet to use as a new base and this was riveted to the body. Double sided flooring adhesive tape secured the new rubber sills to the galvanized sheet. The pattern of the new sills is similar enough to the old sills to be more or less compatible for my driver car. The adhesive tape is really aggressive and I don't anticipate it coming loose, but if it does contact cement can be used.
    1 point
  4. Mine are locking handles, and they definitely have better looking ones then the one pictured above, and the mounting holes are the same, only had to cut off a bit of the square shaft to match the original, but then that is preference, I think it can fit regardless
    1 point
  5. Got a start on the armrests today. I still have a bunch of sanding & finishing work and I have to measure the angle of the screws and make wedges in the brackets. I think they’ll work fine as door pulls and at 2” deep shouldn’t be intrusive. Maybe they’ll even be a comfy spot to set my elbow. Edit: I ended up drilling and tapping the ironwood so no fasteners would show. Also hit it with some penofin. I’m still waiting until my fine thread mounting screws show up to figure out what angle they will sit. I’m still not sure what to make wedges out of. The angle makes it tricky but the 1” thick ipe is easy enough to shave with aggressive flap discs. Just have to hand drill the holes I guess
    1 point
  6. I'll be there, I think its 18 years running for me and the '48!!! Mike
    1 point
  7. rectum pipe seal #5 ... I will keep that dope in mind for time I am old ... just in case leakage in age is more than steam
    1 point
  8. Could you grind off/drill out the rivets that hold the drum to the hub? Then you could remove the drum and access the back side of the hub to place a temporary nut for removal. Then install studs as recommended above. Now the drum will slide back over the studs like a more modern vehicle.
    1 point
  9. Think you’re doing the right thing by adding the moldings to you car. It will completely transform the look of your car. My wagon was without any exterior trim and I located all the trim that was available and it makes the wagon. Be sure to fit the trim to body contours before installing. They tend to get a little bent sometimes when removed. Take the time to polish them before install and remove any dings its not hard to polish or straighten stainless the one thing I didn’t do was drill my wagon body for molding clips. I couldn’t bring myself to drilling holes. I sheared some aluminum slats that slide inside the back side of the molding then used 3M two faced molding tape to attach them to the wagon. Just like all new cars/truck have their moldings attached. 3 years and 10000 Miles later not one loose molding even my gravel guards are taped on
    1 point
  10. See my reply to the "Lug nuts on D14 Dodge" thread...........as Plymouthy has mentioned I'd be replacing the lot with Right Hand threaded studs, drill the 1/2" mopar thread out and press the new probably, Ford studs with a 9/16th knurled section in from the rear............Andy Douglas.
    1 point
  11. If the valves are stuck even if you can free them up do you think the rusty valve faces and seats will really seal up once it's running? No......gotta pull it apart.... major work if you want it to run right and long trouble free.
    1 point
  12. I have a Canadian 1942 dodge that is my next project. I'll look at it this week and get pictures
    1 point
  13. measure the hole and get a knurled stud that will press in and cut a set of grooves as it is pressed in.....Dorman has a chart online for the diameter and length of stud, knurl dimension and over all length and now is the time to go all right hand thread if you wish...if you cannot find it online go to the big box store of your choice and ask for the Dorman book. Buy by dimension.
    1 point
  14. Whatever you do, make sure you have a way into your truck when the system fails...talk to guys that build hotrods where people asked for shaved handles etc...biggest complaint after is getting locked out from a dead battery, or a failed linkage that blocks the door from being opened manually. I solved the passenger door lock issue with a locking door handle for the drivers side from Spenaur, looks original, fit well and now I have a key and lock that's more friendly.
    1 point
  15. Just wanted to tell you all hello. I have a 1952 Plymouth Cambridge 4 door that is in pretty good shape, I do not know a lot about the history of this car but I have had it going on two years now. I found this site looking for information on the cowl vent removal and joined after finding a wealth of information on it, well enough for me to get the job done. I am in New Hampshire so only get to drive the care from mid May though early November. I am not a purest, It is a pretty much stock car that has not been restored but runs, drives and stops well. My next step will be to try to take up some steering wheel play. I'll post a picture or two. I have a question as to what are all the P numbers refered to in some of the posts? what would be the P number for this car? Thanks for having this forum. James
    1 point
  16. add some positive caster with radials....else you going to road walk like a drunk chicken.
    1 point
  17. Water pump Some of the timing chain plate and cover i recall.
    1 point
  18. We can certainly do something but I won't do the smoker all day if it's pouring rain
    1 point
  19. Yo Eric I saw this topic go by a while back and didn’t have anything to say but I recently had my driver’s latch out to fix the linkage (sheared a pin thru the bar that connects it to the flat bar that goes to the handle). Now I have a little more understanding of the mechanism. I put remote power locks on my ‘73 swinger about ten years ago. It was a cheap rf module from pepboys with a keychain remote and a little solenoid actuator. When I first saw your thread I thought of that but the unlock function on the latch needs the inside handle pulled. The force and travel required for that is a bit much for a cheap actuator. After looking at the mechanism I think a remote lock/unlock could work if it was hooked to the blocker bar/tab instead of the latch opening mechanism. Check out the pic. An extension could be welded to the up-down blocker tab and wouldn’t need a lot of force to move it out of the way to unlock it .
    1 point
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