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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/2019 in all areas

  1. Good luck with the picking up and towing home. Be safe! Post lots of pictures!
    3 points
  2. POR-15 on the frame today. start painting suspension parts soon and then we begin putting it all back together.
    3 points
  3. Here's how you literally bulletproof a Plymouth: This is from Jim Benjaminson’s great photo archive book “Plymouth Commercial Vehicles“ from 1999. He says “With the depression era crime wave of the 1930s, Plymouth found a ready market for armor plated cars for police work. Like the wood-bodied station wagon, Plymouth delivered the car to an outside supplier for the conversion. The Perfection Windshield Company offered several different packages for partial or complete armor plating. Although most of the conversion was under the sheetmetal and not seen, visible equipment included radiator, tire guards and a gun port through the bulletproof windshield. This 1935 PJ "Perfection" Plymouth was delivered to the Sioux Falls South Dakota police department following a raid on the local bank by the John Dillinger gang.
    2 points
  4. I called Murray this morning to introduce myself and update him on his car. I thanked him for taking good care of it since the mid-60’s. Murray sold the car in the fall of 2018 he said. To a local fellow. This fellow go it running again then listed it for sale. Which is when I entered into the scene. Putting a few puzzle pieces together I have somewhat of a time line. Original owner bought the car brand new. In Victoria BC in 1938. Owner had at least one daughter. Fast forward to the mid-60’s. The original owner passed. His daughter listed the car for sale at that time. Murray Noel bought it then. Now, we know Murray graduated in 1960. So he would have been about 17 years old then. Add 5 years to 1965 , Murray bought this Plymouth when he was about 22-23 years old. He kept it all these years. Recently having to sell it due to complications that come with age. Next, I think I can track down the original owner’s name. Sounds like they should likely have deep roots in the Victoria area. More to come on that. Murray said he had a “splash’n dash” paint job put on the car some time ago. He needed to store it outdoors for a while. He hoped the paint would help protect it. It must have helped some. Murray was nice and answered all my questions. I think he feels ok with the car in my hands. I told him dpollo sent me his way. He laughed. Sound to me like dpollo is well known in those parts of the island. A new chapter begins. Saturday we depart at 5 AM for the car’s next journey to my home. I cannot wait to get it home.
    2 points
  5. Just before a rod goes through the side of the block....?
    2 points
  6. My general impression is that Mopar mechanicals had a pretty solid design from the mid-1930s on up. So to make the car a strong, reliable driver that you can take everywhere should just be a matter of putting the car back into good working order. Getting a factory service manual for the car is a good first step. I prefer to go over brakes and suspension components firsts as I really, really, really don't want a failure there while driving. The only concession to modern conditions that I think is required is to replace any rubber fuel system components (flex line, fuel pump diaphragm, etc.) with parts compatible with the additives in modern gasoline. If the car has been driven significant distances in the last 20 years that may have already been done. Some people will insist on changing to 12v. I find the 6v system on my old Plymouth works just fine though I did hide a 6v+ to 12v- converter under the dash and I use it to charge my cellphone, run a dash cam, etc. And some people believe that you need to change the brakes to disc. My feeling is that this is not necessary: The main issue with drum brakes is fade. Unless you are going to be racing/rallying the only place that might be an issue would be on long mountain downgrades. For that you can down shift and use engine braking to keep your speed under control.
    2 points
  7. I want to comment on a few differences in P15 years that became really obvious to me over the past few days. My 48 P15 4 door had painted bumpers on both front and rear when I got it and ever since I have been looking for a set of chrome ones. So for a while now I have been in talks with a guy who has a 50 Plymouth which he is sort of ratting/rodding and pretty well painting everything as such. So I ended up purchasing the front chassis and all components as well as the rear end from him. Parts are hard to come by here for a 71 year old car so it is a win to get some rebuildable parts. We ended up trading bumpers with me getting his half decent chrome ones and him getting my decent painted ones. Well when I tried to bolt up the frame of the front bumper to the chassis I discovered there is a good 3 inches or more in the difference with my 48 being wider. I would not have thought there would be a difference in the chassis width at all where both of the cars are only separated by 2 manufacturing years. Upon closer scrutinizing I realized that while both vehicles look similar they are in fact incredibly different. I did make the front bumper fit and will probably do the same with the rear but it sort of begs the question of whether or not the other components that I purchased from this guy will even be any good to my car. And for the record the owner of the other car was as clueless to these differences as I was. In fact he pretty well gave me a load of stuff above what I purchased, things that he didnt need for his build with a promise to give me whatever else he does not use. In fact Im sending him a link to this site so he can join as I have been pretty much raving about the awsomeness of bei g a member here and all that the site has to offer. Oh and also, the 50 bumper is of a different profile than the 48.
    1 point
  8. Any decent glass shop will cut you a windshield if you take in the old one as a template. Assuming it is flat glass as it is two piece. Way cheaper locally than ordering glass elsewhere. That's my experience anyway.
    1 point
  9. That is a bummer. Forget the sta-bil though. Watching you build this thing, I would put money on it being roadworthy in two weeks. I don’t know about your area, but 727’s are very common and easy to find around here.
    1 point
  10. That was my Father's way of knowing he needed a newer Plymouth. A 1940, a 1949 and a 1954 just counting flatheads..
    1 point
  11. Up at the top of page next to your username. Click on the envelope enter the addressee, you message and then send.
    1 point
  12. Found some power on the dyno today. Ended up with 362hp & 527tq at the wheels. It was still making hp at 5500 but bounced off the limiter. I drive mostly 1500-4500 on the street anyway. It’s not crazy horsepower but the torque is pretty flat and over 500 ft lbs almost off idle. For a street build I’m totally happy. The two curves are before and after tuning
    1 point
  13. A well maintained old Mopar, in my opinion is pretty bulletproof. Whether its 1934 or 1954. Me? I’d likely go through everything, top to bottom. All the original wear and salvage specs are available. Put everything back to spec. Points and condenser need not be updated to solid state. A strong powertrain throughout. Top notch electrical system. Good Tires and brakes in top condition. It can look old and tired, yet be a solid reliable car. Best be sure to educate yourself and get dirty. Car owner mechanical experience, skill and confidence goes a long way here. Yes you can pay others to do everything. It’ll cost a ton. When/if the car does let you down you may find yourself stumped and waiting for a tow truck. That’s my experience.
    1 point
  14. Here's my 49 b1f in progress start and now.
    1 point
  15. You can buy brushes, bushings and starter drives separately as needed. I'm not aware of a "kit". If the armature/ fields needs work, you probably won't have the tools/equipment to test, service or repair them so you may be best served finding a rebuilder.
    1 point
  16. Found this 1950 Dodge May 19th 2019.....sitting behind a barn in my local area since 1979....I'm going to see if I can get it running.
    1 point
  17. Ralph I would humbly suggest that you buy a new battery first. I have had the experience of my starter not disengaging when I had a weak battery. A new battery might solve the problem... You need a new one anyway ?
    1 point
  18. Welp I guess 525 torque off idle might not be such a good thing after all. I shredded my front driveshaft yoke apart and somehow wedged the universal or something which ripped the tailshaft off the trans, ruining both parts. Time to put some sta-bil in the gas tank and look for a new 727 core to transfer my worked valvebody and new clutches into. Luckily it was three blocks from home and a helpful neighbor pulled me home with a tow strap. I was hoping it was just a U joint broke until I walked back with kitty litter to clean up and collect my carnage off the scene of the crime and found aluminum trans case chunks along with busted yoke and a universal cap.
    0 points
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