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In a previous thread I showed how I made a brake adjustment tool using a length of steel tubing, some all-thread and a piece of angle. The tool worked fairly well but had some inherent imprecision due to the tubing not being a real tight fit on the axle threads. This was really obvious on the rear axles due to the threads being worn. I've modified the tool and it now works very nicely and accurately. Instead of the all-thread being welded to steel tube, it is welded to a 3/4"-16 nut. This removes any significant play in the indicator. Before removing the wheel drum, one minor cam adjuster is tightened enough to create noticeable drag on the drum. The drum is then removed and the brake tool is threaded onto the axle. The pointer is located over the portion of the shoe that contacted the drum which indicates the ID of the drum and adjusted for a snug fit on the shoe. If you want to get really fancy a 0.006" feeler gauge can be inserted between the pointer and shoe. I tried chalking the shoe to assist with indicating the high point during the initial adjustment but didn't find it to be of any advantage. Notice how these brand new shoes have not yet worn enough to have full contact with the drum. I'll readjust the brakes after some miles have accumulated on the shoes. Once the pointer is adjusted to match the high point of the shoe that was adjusted against the drum, the tool is swept over each shoe so the major and minor cam adjustments can be set so each shoe is concentric with the drum. Hopefully this will remove some of the mystery of adjusting the brakes and provide visual confirmation of proper adjustment.

This is for entertainment purposes only.....do not attempt at home...lol I'll bet Harvey peed his pants more than once

That would easily reach $1,000,000. Even close to $2,000,000 in the right neighborhood. It's absolutely absurd! I was born and raised here in San Jose and was not about to get pushed out by all the tech workers moving in, just wasn't going to let it happen, so I saved as much as I could for a long time. I also know the realtor and loan officer I worked with. Didn't get charged a thing for their services, which was a HUGE help.

YIKES!! We bought our home a few years ago for $109,000. 1310 sq. ft., 1.5 story, 3BR, 1.5 BA, on 6900 sq. ft. lot. Your property prices out there are crazy compared to what I'm used to around here. Looks like we'd have to add another '0' to the price out there.

We got in at $710,000. 800sf single family home on 5,000sf lot. Not huge, just right for two people with no kids.

Hi, Below are my2 cents worth... James. 1. I run straight 30 weight in a new engine and at about 40K miles I switch to straight 40 weight. 2. In a stock cam or close to it engine I never worry about adding Zinc. The guys/gals at the ANSI, when they tested the zinc no-zinc oil in production engines they maintain (which are as documented engines as they come) found that zinc did not do a thing. I also know some people who took cams/lifters, when this issue surfaced, and found out the cams and lifters were soft when they had them Rockwell tested. So chicken or the egg? With about 60K on my 251 in a car that outweighs everyone else around here my cam which was NOS looks just fine and never saw any zinc other than break in grease. 3. The ethanol in the gas can cause issues with the bore the brass plunger runs in on the Carter 1BBL's. Check it once a year. (search for my old thread on this). 4. Don Coatney has posted the mill chart on here a bunch of times. 5. If you decide to run more than 7 to 1, I run about 8 to 1 use Premium fuel. I have had evidence of some knock-ping under heavy load (again on a 5000 pound car) pulling up hills. It is VERY subtle. One thing I noted on runs up a big hill, on days with temp and humidity the same, is that I am getting a little more power with premium. Now theoretically that is not supposed to happen. However, if there is any unheard detonation then a pistons forward momentum will be slowed by the early flame front. So, if you add premium and pick up some power it may be due to detonation. One can always retard the timing and run regular. In my case I need all the power I can get. 6. Guide wear is more of an issue that valve problems in my experience. 7. I just set up a PCV after running the new engine for 15 years and 60K miles. The oil stays cleaner longer and there is no visible blow by at stop signs!

Welcome to the rat race or the Bay Area, glad you got in. Taxes are tough here in CA. I live a little north of you in San Bruno but I work in Santa Clara so I'm in the general area 3-5 days per week. Maybe we'll bump into each other at a local show? BTW there is a MOPAR only show coming up in Cupertino at De Anza College June 9th. Adam

Yes, new and purchased from an Amazon vendor, also available at McMaster Carr. It is 3/4"-16, you might find one at a good auto supply house or in the axle nut junk box of a gearhead. If using an experienced axle nut be sure the threads are still tight. The big-box stores will probably only have the course-thread 3/4"-10.

God bless your neighbours......

Call the garage what you like but the fact he is a homeowner is, IMHO, the really big deal, especially in CA.....

May 15: Been a while since I seen my truck. Was able to get into my friend's shop/shed and snap a few pics. Not very good ones, but it's something to look at anyway. Next visit I'll be bringing the rebuilt carb and a new battery and cables. I'll get it fired up and hauled to my new place!

The previous owner had carpet put in with a foam mat. Spray glued the whole thing in right over the MC access cover and rust holes. Took me several days to scrap all that sh*t off. I was able to salvage the carpet.

Good info on ethanol and rubber. Didn't have to consider ethanol back in the day. Don't want a car-b-q. Will be careful on rubber. Great advice from all and I sure am going to appreciate those build threads. Sure will help me on my flathead 6. Rebuilt a couple flathead 8's back in the 70's and a couple OHC motors after, but this 6 is a new one for me. Thebeebe5? great tip on your thread re the outfit in Phoenix- to get the block cleaned out if I run into difficulty getting the water passages sludge and caking out. They're not that far from me here outside of Queen Creek. BTW, your '37 looks really cool. Thanx, all!

he probably passed while I was buying a DVD of some of his antics recorded on them......was shocked to hear that he passed on the day I bought his video... I was told that the original uncut version of the dentist visit has the scene where Harvey actually pissed himself laughing....

if you got nothing going out...you have no need for a way to return.....plugging it is the same as the folks with shut off valves at the back of the head...

It’s loud like a harley with short vance&hines, not like open pipes. The video was from too far on a windy day- I was surprised how quiet the video was off my buddy’s phone. I actually wouldn’t mind a little quieter but with the efi I can start it and warm up on my way out of the neighborhood which is good for neighbor relations vs warming up in the driveway after dark with a race carb. It’ll sound amazing on tight city streets for sure whenever I get around to cruising it downtown Philly and you can feel the pressure on your ears going through 2 lane overpasses on the throttle.

Here’s a little startup video with the efi and laying some stripes in front of my shop ?

Ditto PA's message. Valve seats on these Mopar flat sixes are already hardened.

they are

I will go as far to say that if running, one is as good as the other....

I apologize if I caused anyone a headache or took the thread "off track". Seemed to me it started out with a wheel in the ditch.?

A small update - spent a few evenings over the last few weeks repairing the steering wheel. Unfortunately it was in rough shape as the sun had got to the plastic and it was brittle and cracked. In some places the metal was showing. Whilst I loved the look and originality, it wasn’t safe and wouldn’t have been deemed legal and roadworthy over here. I found a NOS green wheel, but it was too pricey for me ($500) and I toyed with the idea of casting a new one in resin, however it would’ve been an expensive experiment with no guarantee of colour match. In the end, I opened up all the cracks and used an epoxy putty to repair it. There was a lot of sanding but it was complete and solid. In an attempt to get the translucent look of the original, I got a paint match and added some pearl clear to the finish. In the sun, it’s hard to tell the difference and I’m really happy with the way it turned out. It’s not perfect, but neither is the car! Some pics for you....

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