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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/2019 in all areas

  1. Highly recommend Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Racheting Terminal Crimp Kit. Uses different dies for different types of crimps. Goes all the up to #10 wire and does a secure and beautiful crimp job. Well worth the money.
    2 points
  2. My recently returned-to-the-road '48 Special Deluxe is running a Carter P4259 6v electric pump mounted near the tank as the sole means of pushing fuel to the carb. So far the engine seems to be very happy with the pump without a regulator. There is now a block-off plate where the old fuel pump was mounted on the crankcase. I ran the 12v version of this pump for several years on my StalkerV6 kit car with a carb and it functioned perfectly. The pump is wired to the ignition switch but I may add an oil pressure switch to the circuit....or may not...kinda adverse to adding single-point-of-failure modes to the system. The pump runs all the time when the ignition is switched on. It is barely audible at idle but not when the car is going down the road.
    2 points
  3. And here's ggdad1951 receiving his award, "Key to the Ranch" (wire cutters) I think for his many contributions with preparations and otherwise being a swell guy.
    2 points
  4. Finally got the majority of projects at the house wrapped up, so we pulled the truck of my in-laws property yesterday. Got it weighed 3320#, dropped it at the house and headed to the DMV, was an out of state purchase that required multiple different items to get a clear CO title. With that being said and done, the banging of knuckles began.
    1 point
  5. no..I did not say that...the question was how do I know I need it...answer...by the very change to disc and keeping stock cylinder....I did not address the rears as I probably should have and as justold added, you still need the 10 psi for the rear....in regard to the lower master application you have a stock 10psi built in to master.....as you go to disc this is too much...thus the removal and addition of the 2 for disc and a 10 for the rear fitted inline.... some folks have said that they never did this and all is well....well some may still have a bit of air in their lines that is buffering the pressure...I have no knowledge of each individual application and or methods of bleed....I do know what is technically needed and the reason for it. Each can do as they choose or proceed based on a prior learning curve of the industry.
    1 point
  6. You still need the 10psi valve on the rear drum brakes .
    1 point
  7. I like knuckleharley's reminder to carry a fire extinguisher in our cars - if not for us, then perhaps for another motorist in trouble...
    1 point
  8. Hard starts when hot are standard equipment with flathead engines,6 or 8. The only "solution" I ever discovered was to drink another cup of coffee and wait for it to cool down. Wrapping all the gas lines with heat resistant wrap might help some,though. AFATG,swapping out the underhood hard steel gas lines with rubber gas lines will probably help a lot,but make damn sure you are getting rubber lines rated for ethanol gas or buy a REALLY big fire extinguisher to take with you everywhere you go. I guess,if you wanted,if you could find a rubber gas line with the same ID as the OD of your gas line,you could use that as an outer insulator to keep heat away from the gas line and still have the security of a steel line. Never tried it because I just now thought of it,but I see no reason why it wouldn't help.
    1 point
  9. I have discovered as I get older and more feeble that time is now more important to me than money,and I just don't have the patience to do something more than once. I have bought two new gas tanks for antique cars from Tanks,Inc,and both fit and worked like a dream. IIRC,they each cost around 230 bucks including shipping. When you consider how little 230 bucks buys these days and how valuable your remaining time is,my vote is to never screw with an old leaking or rusty gas tank. ESPECIALLY in this day of ethanol fuel that eats old gas tank sealers like acid. Just buy a new one and be done with it.
    1 point
  10. Ok, now the present. The car has 4.11 gears and I don't like driving it over about 52mph, the engine seams to be reving higher than I'd like. By reading on this forum, it should take it just fine but I'd like to put more hwy friendly gears in it. Kinda hard to take out perfectly quite rear with new brakes and a driveshaft that has no vibration, although the front boot tore since the last time I had it on the lift. I got a mopar 8-3/4 from a b-body, put 3.55 gears in it, all new differential and pinion bearings and seals. Fit great! Ordered a driveshaft from driveshaft specialist in TX. They seam to know exactly what I needed. I'm still waiting on the driveshaft and having withdrawals, the weather couldn't be better to cruise around in the 48 and mine won't go nowhere! Lol! Maybe it will be more enjoyable once it's going again....
    1 point
  11. Thanks! The car photographs with my phone and lot better then it looks in person. There's areas where the paint has chipped and surface rust, the chrome is showing a good bit of age.....the roof has a dent....but I'm going to drive, maintain and enjoy it the way it is. Reading others post like Worden 18 has got me inspired to drive it more often then I do. Here's a b&w in front of some homes built in the late 20's or at least the brick one.
    1 point
  12. I'm no expert in this area but 1940 was the 1st year for sealed beam headlights and from then on they used those 3 prong connectors..........I rewired my car (after two halfarsed attempts in the early 70's) in the late 1970's and used those same style of connectors, the car is 12 volts and the headlights are H4's, originally Bosch brand as used in Volvo 164s then replaced with Hella H4's about 10-12 yrs ago when the Bosch headlights started to exhibit rust thru on their lower edge and were about to get a fail in the annual rego check................most of the wiring on my car was crimped using a no name brand crimping tool and so far, after over 40 yrs is still working fine..........those that weren't crimped would have been soldered however the only reason for this was that I decided that soldered joints were a better joint, not and I repeat, NOT due to anything failing, just due to updated installations or changed things...my car is a hotrod so originality whilst is nice was not my requirement..........BTW......when I rewired the car in the 1970's here in Oz, multi coloured wire was not commonplace, if you were lucky the local parts shop or auto sparky may have had half a dozen different solid coloured wires available, if you asked for something with a coloured trace in it they laughed at you.........so I went to the local car wreckers and bought 2 or 3 complete wiring harnesses from whatever late model( 1970's) cars that were being parted out.......I then completely unwrapped these wiring harnesses, cleaned every wire using turps or some sort of thinners and Da..Da!!........I ended up with lots of nice, "new" wire, all sorts of colours and lots of fittings that with careful study were able to be disassembled and I then rewired the whole car..............I even drew up a wiring diagram complete with a key to all the various colours including those with trace colours..............so far 40 odd years later it still works o/k........lol...........however now with the advent of the internet the access to the correct tools, wire and fittings is now much easier but the main thing I'd suggest is to take your time and try to do the best job you can..............both you and your car will appreciate it later on............regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
    1 point
  13. This is? https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18960-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B006O1Y1FY/ref=asc_df_B006O1Y1FY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242037806074&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5053499055749999022&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019545&hvtargid=pla-572274699817&psc=1
    1 point
  14. Well.....I'm relieved see the finely honed craft of thread creep is alive and well on this forum! Glad I was able to provide grist for the creep mill and that the thread is being enjoyed to its fullest. Carry on.
    1 point
  15. I will have to get my lifter noise fixed and then I will shoot a good video! I would agree about the flathead... It was very reliable and a solid motor. They made a great work horse and were fairly easy to get parts for. However, to make the performance I was looking for, it would of been a pretty radical flathead. This seemed like the best way to go and not to mention the retro cool factor!
    1 point
  16. Cold Blue will soon be wearing these tags.
    1 point
  17. But metric is so much easier, I just count my fingers. With imperial, I have to break one of my fingers in half, quarter, etc, it bloody hurts.
    1 point
  18. Thanks! The 58 is far from being done but it now has a 5.7 hemi, nag1 transmission, power rack and pinion, power disk brakes, vintage air under dash ac and heat.
    1 point
  19. I would consider Tim's suggestion on lowering the fuel level. I was on a trip with a couple of friends years ago and we stopped for lunch. It was a hot day.One of them opened the hood of his vehicle and fuel was visibly fizzing and bubbling (percolating) in the glass fuel bowl at the carburetor. In a case like that, the expansion of the fuel in the carburetor , possibly dripping into the throat of the carburetor with the engine off and pooling in the intake manifold might cause hard starting.An electric fuel pump activated when the key is turned on could aggravate the situation.
    1 point
  20. Amen Frank, Bleed them brakes two or three times around after checking for leaks at Wheel Cylinders. You should have a pedal by then or then maybe its the MC
    1 point
  21. on heat soak....with modern fuels the alcohol has a lower expansion temperature and well the engine is going to run x degrees.....the cure at times is lesser fuel in the bowl by adjusting the floats. The very odds that you are going to outrun the fuel in those twin carb bowls against filling with an electric fuel pump is SLIM SLIM SLIM. Another easy overlooked item is the heat of the very coil itself...these cause hard start more than most fuel probs. Next occurrence...verify that your spark voltage is not weaker when hot. I cold pack about the coil for testing will be a quick and easy test.
    1 point
  22. Might be an idea to check the fuel pressure if you're using the electric pump all the time and install a fuel pressure regulator if necessary (if pressure exceeds normal limit). From experience I've had in the past, when I installed an electric pump (in series with the mechanical pump) I only used it for cold starts and then switched it off.It worked very well. On a hot engine an electric fuel pump may possibly cause flooding when restarting...Just my thoughts.
    1 point
  23. Be a Troubleshooter not a Parts changer........I heard that sage bit of advice from every Aircraft Maintenance Master Chief I worked for.
    1 point
  24. you could have used the head and the oil filter, the oil filter alone would have gotten you money back, you could have used the cam, u could have taken the oil pump and made a primmer out of it, you could have had a spare water pump, motor mounts, the spitfire head would have been boss to have. extra starter, distributer. etc, grab whats useful and small and scrap the rest if you really wanted.
    1 point
  25. I took a leaky tank off one of my cars a couple of years ago, sanded it down, washed it with lacquer thinner, lathered it up with JB Weld, let is set for about a week before putting gas in it, and it lasted a couple of months. It may have started leaking in another spot but I wasn't really interested in looking. If money's short, by all means do whatever it takes but the only sure way to fix a rusted out, leaky gas tank is to replace it. If it's rusted through in one place it'll rust through in another before you know it. And don't sell it to someone else without letting them know what you've done. That's bad karma.?
    1 point
  26. I have a chrome 6 volt positive ground on mine. Bought bracket and alternator at www.qualitypowerauto.com. Alternator Part #71276V with 5/8" pulley Bracket Part #GB-1 The chrome one is $185 but the non-chrome is $135. Bracket was $45
    1 point
  27. Check the crankcase. It might be passing a seal in the fuel pump and going there. Might WOOOF if it is. Joe Lee
    0 points
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