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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/2019 in all areas

  1. Jesus guys,....give'm a break! Get a life. Oldtime,...hang in there. Many in this group (especially those that comment a lot) get their shorts in a bunch at anything non stock. One even stressed about a water pump with a grease nipple where the stocker had none,....or maybe it was the other way around???? I would only add,....re the 8 & 3/4" rearend, there are many 8 &1/4" Mopar rearends available and cheap and many a direct bolt-in. Plenty robust and yields the same bolt pattern.as the front or Ford wheels. Just gett'r done and enjoy with your family.!
    6 points
  2. Hi all ,went to the VHRA vintage nat's at santa pod here in the UK at the weekend, was the only Plymouth racing got 24 runs in all very consistent 15.2 - 15.4 ET and a best speed of 89.80 mph, Won my class and fastest in class.
    5 points
  3. First, it's his car and he can do whatever he wants. Second, he is asking for help. If you have something productive to add, please join the conversation. Third, if you disagree with his approach you may state your reasons in a respectful manner, never forgetting it's his car and he can do what he pleases. Lastly, he is welcome on the site and to ask these types of questions. Maybe if you present a logical and respectful argument he will consider other option. Or you will get a better understanding of why he wants to follow a particular approach. Enough of this bickering, thread locked.
    4 points
  4. Rinsed off the Hammond Rd dirt and mud and went to get some gas and ice cream on Sunday. Bumped into a Mopar Muscle guy at the ice cream shop - he was all excited when I popped the hood to show a dual carb'd flathead. I was going to take some pictures of the car in downtown West Liberty - but rain (and tornado warnings) chased us back home before that happened.
    4 points
  5. Look guys it’s all fine. I was not trying to open Pandora’s box with my asking some guidance from others who are more knowledgeable on my task at hand. my comment was the entire post since it obviously has caused an issue. But I’m fine with leaving it up. Doesn’t bother me. i was recommended to come to this website for assistance. In my spare time from family and kids I use my iPhone to look at hobby stuff so sometimes it’s difficult to navigate. Perhaps I picked wrong forum on here, or wrong site all together. But there are knowledgeable people everywhere As I said, I get it that everyone has an opinion and that’s okay. It’s just one thing to express your view and leave it at that. I thank the latest posters who had some helpful items to look at. and yes, my cousin has done some stuff like this to other cars so it will be done as professional as can be as he’s very good. thank you
    4 points
  6. I agree with some on the SBC I have a 50 Ply. with one . (I now wish I kept the flat six now as I probably would be driving it now instead of 75% finished after 15 years) . I do know and have watched for years now on this forum a small bock Mopar motor would be so much more welcomed on this here than the Chevy. I kno0w and understand his reason for this and some support to get another old Mopar on the road is Good. Adam, I hope you can somehow send him a Mailing of you last post and welcome back to this forum! I see both sides of this But no reason to bust someones balls over Their choice! JMO! DJ
    4 points
  7. Something to keep in mind with "bolt in " 8 3/4 rear ends. The cars from the 60's and 70's may have wider leaf springs than the 30's-40's-50's cars, so the "feet" or whatever you call the part that sits on the springs may need to be changed to a narrower part from an old rear. This was the case with my 39. Don't try using the newer wide feet on the narrow springs. I did, the U bolts didn't hold properly, and it sheared off the top of the bolt holding the leafs together. The rear shifted back on the spring, and I was lucky to be close enough to home to drive it back crabbing down the road at an angle. Get the proper sized part for your width of spring. A final point to make in regards to all the fuss over modifying a car. If my 39 coupe hadn't been hot rodded some 45 years ago, it wouldn't be around today. 45 years ago there was little interest in an old Dodge, and even less when Iacocca was making K cars. Ford guys used to call us the ugly cars. Whatever is done to a car can be un-done. Check the HAMB for 32 ford projects using cars pulled out of creeks, or one down under pulled out of an orchard. A v8 equipped car can easily be made back into an inline 6. There is a lot of sheer talent out there, and even more determination. As long as we like them and take them out and drive them, 4, 6. 8, doesn't matter. brian
    3 points
  8. You need to set the idle speed speed to as cllose to 500 rpm. Then using the synching to to assure that bother carbs are dreaming equal voulumn and that when you advance the throttle they draw the same though the rpm range. This is acomplished through adjusting the individual linages to put the throttle plates at equal angles. This can be a verry fiddly process caillng for methodic and patience. Once the throttle plates are synched you can then adjust the idle air screws to smother out that balance then reset the idle speed for 450 to 500 rpm. When that if finished recheck your timing and check the volume with the synch tool again. Once they are set you shouldn't need to mess with them gin unless the linkage loosens up over time and use.
    3 points
  9. Hello Oldtimelampshop, That's a good looking convert you have there, glad to see it's being saved and enjoyed as they are meant to be. Some suggestions below: 1. Champion makes a good radiator and the hose connections will be in the proper locations for your SBC. I would add an external plate type transmission cooler in front of the radiator. 2. You may have to do some inner fender panel work to clear the heads and exhaust. Also set the engine to the passenger side a little to clear the steering box, exhaust (headers or manifolds) will probably be a trial and error type situation but hey that's hotrodding... 3. I would look for an explorer 8.8 rear axle. Bolt pattern will be correct, many gear ratios, EZ to find parts, come in disc or drum brakes. Tape measure will be your guide. OR I used a Falcon 8" Ford RR in my 49 and it was a perfect fit but depending on the HP of the SBC, an 8" might be too light duty... I have used Denny's driveshaft for many hotrods and they have always been perfect. 4. Definitely go to disc brakes. I recommend Olddaddy's brake kit and he is a forum member here. Also excellent support with off the shelf parts. rustyhope.com 5. A SBC swap shouldn't be a mind boggling as some here would have you believe. You will have to cut out the existing transmission crossmember and fab a new one but that's easy. If we can stuff a SBC in a model A and keep the hood, this should be easy. If you run into length problems, the radiator can be mounted on the front side of the radiator support for a few inches. 6. Take your time and enjoy the journey. Problem solving is essential to a modified build, anyone can bolt together a stocker but it takes a real man to cut one up Good luck, enjoy the build for what it is and in the end you will have a car that anyone can jump in and drive, crafted with your own hands... Adam
    3 points
  10. I drive both of these every weekend ,unless its snowing!
    2 points
  11. You're gonna end up spending more on it than it's worth so you may as well be happy. There's nothing wrong with a good old SBC. Good power, parts swapping is easy, you can find them almost anywhere. What's not to like? Well, maybe the oil leaks but what's a little oil drip among friends? ? You're starting out with a nice car, good luck with whatever you choose to do!!
    2 points
  12. Agreed. Having looked through yet another series of trash the op posts, its the same fellas creating 92% of the butt-grease again. Too bad, another new member shot in the face for asking how to achieve his goals with his car. OP, Good Luck, a 350 is a solid motor for your car and modern traffic requirements. Enjoy, and if ya please, post a pic or two once its installed. (My 37 is getting a 5.7 Vortec and 4l60E so I can go anywhere and so wife can drive it....hmmmmmm....sounds familiar. I even posted about it but never got the shxty welcome you got for your question. Sorry bout that. Hope you come back some.)
    2 points
  13. The first response to the OP that answered his questions. I hope things go well for the OP on the swap. I found for myself I haven't received the support I been looking for when asking questions about my car. After seeing the "support" for the new member, my feelings for this site has diminished. As a young guy myself I'm trying to learn all I can. It's great this site I'd dedicated to our older mopars, not many sites are but in all my latest questions, I got more flack then support. For myself with my 1942. I was shamed for thinking of customizing the car and not spending 10s of thousands to restore the where its fate was to be a rat rod or lawn art. I was pushed to sell the car to some one who would restore it because of it being a rare car. Our cars right now might be rare but not valuable. Of the OP wants to put in a sbc in HIS car so he can enjoy it the way he wants to add value to him then I'm all for it. To him it's easier. He understands the sbc, if this post was never made, you wouldn't have known of this car, guess what a lot of unknown cars rot away. This car will be on the road again. I bet that version of that car is rare being a 2dr convertible. Guess what that means for everyone? It's a car that will hopefully soon be enjoyed by the owner and others will have the pleasure to see in person
    2 points
  14. I can't speak for the owner, but I'll bet he changed to logo to keep this site active and relevant. Much the same as Goodguys and others keep extending the cut off years to their shows, they smelled death. Keep this stuff up and this forum will get as dead as the POC forum. I really don't remember the OP asking for anyone's approval for his choice. Since we have ALL successfully driven this thread completely off the rails, it will probably be locked and another future contributor will be gone. Now we can all go back to our usual and stale arguments, excellent job guys! Fresh minds / fresh ideas? not here....
    2 points
  15. I think you and others have never read the logo for this site. Now you and others on this thread have successfully driven off a new forum member, it's a wonder this forum is still alive with posts like this. Perhaps you, and you know who you are here, should stay on the POC forum? Isn't that the zero tolerance place? If the guy wants to drop a SBC in it, that's his business. What isn't cool is some here just can't accept anything but stockers.... This site is for both!
    2 points
  16. I do get tired of the questions from people of why the bed is black and when am I gonna paint it...
    2 points
  17. I've been working on adjusting the idle. It's just not quite where I want it. It's still a little rough. I am wondering if anyone has come up with a good procedure to adjust duel carbs. I am using the tool in the picture below to sync the two carbs. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
    1 point
  18. It rains on the weekends frequently here in Tennessee!! We only get maybe one small snow per winter. Yes - she's not very water tight....And she is not my daily driver, I am retired now, so sometimes I don't drive at all for several days. I simply use her to cruise on the weekends, when its not raining, of course!
    1 point
  19. I drive my 48 P15 every weekend, except in the rain. Its got antique auto tags on it - so weekend driving only. Satin blue paint with pin-striped ghost flames (fuschia colored) and pin-striping in a 50's style. Dual Carter carbs, 218 flathead, with an Offenhauser intake. Smitty muffler. 4" lowering blocks. Leopard skin fabric seats. Runs super and sounds great! I love her!!!
    1 point
  20. It's a good thing it rains..... It currently resides on a dirt/gravel road. Lol
    1 point
  21. Don't tell me you drove that somewhat familiar looking car in the rain! ? ? I doubt the previous owner drove in the rain. Seldom left the garage. ?? Looking good! Enjoy! DJ
    1 point
  22. I went with a 3.55/1 8.25 from a 74 Charger. That was about as close to a bolt in as is possible. Follow this link for photos. https://smg.photobucket.com/user/DonCoatney/library/Differential?page=1
    1 point
  23. MikeMalibu is correct in that it will take a lot more work and lot more money to put a V8 in that one thinks. The steering along is a pain in the butt. You will have to have a custom made Rack & Pinion as the frame is such that the V8 will not allow a regular steering box. Now that said, I did see one, some years ago, where the box cleared, the engine was off set to the right. But it was so close I would worry about the manifold heat over time on the steering box. In my case I am working on replacing my trans with a modern automatic. I am also looking at using a set of GM late 1980's single injector throttle bodies on an Edmunds manifold so I have computerized FI and a MSD box. Will I get double the HP, of course not. But it will do for driving every say for another 20 years. If I do it right with a 265, I hope to hit the 130 HP target.
    1 point
  24. Great time had by all. Blast as usual even with having to create the "John T Canal"! Is it next year yet? 20190405_171135.mp4
    1 point
  25. It’s raining today- no chassis work. I started patching the floorboards in the garage though. The trans is still on the bench but it’s all buttoned up with the torque converter installed so I’m not so worried about kicking up dust anymore.
    1 point
  26. Electric fuel is all hooked up and functional with a mechanical pump still on the engine. I'm using a HEP-02A 12 volt pump, which looks like its good for right about 180hp depending what online specs you find for the pump, so there isn't a whole lot extra overhead. I have a much larger Carter pump sitting in the shop if I need more, but I need to find a good place to mount it. I took the car out with the GF for quick trip and everything seemed to work just fine. I still need turn signals up front.
    1 point
  27. I tripped over my 3.91 rear axle for 2 years before I gave it away to the first taker. multiple posts for sale, multiple posts for free before I found a taker. Delivered it too... Adam
    1 point
  28. Tugs grill sunning itself on the driveway, I'll wake him up with a big friendly hammer
    1 point
  29. I was going to fit the front lights to Tug today, then this happened, major metalwork bashing session, oh well, at least it getting all straightened out ?
    1 point
  30. Haha the copyright is yours gratis my friend just don’t forget about the little people after you’ve made your first million
    1 point
  31. Well Adam - Ive looked at the Banner - I dont see put a chevy v8 in your car.. But you have totally missed the point. There are a number of people, some who have posted on this thread who have successfully made it such an uncomfortable place that not a few but many many have long ago left. My point was, exactly what he wants to cover is covered in detail on several different threads on Hamb. Why in the world should the person not get a lead into exactly what he wants to do ? I do think and have suggested more than once that just as there is a p15-d24 forum and a mopar flathead truck forum, etc etc, There should be a forum where a lot of the custom stuff belongs. You Adam are dead wrong that I an many others are all about keeping them stock. I am many are all about keeping them Mopar and that Sir is a world of difference. If the owners of the p15d24 sight wish to have the all breed mix and match, v8, v10, v6 or whatever coupled with turbo 400s, t5 and whatever else can be dreamed up thats cool, I just dont think it belongs on he P15d24 forum. Not to be confused with the p15d24 website. This site is far from the only resource on the internet, and quite honestly with some of the "free advice" often tossed out there, its as likely to misinform that help some on many topics. So yes I realize you will not have lots to say and a big rant.. You have not posted several times on the thread sounding somewhere between a self styled expert and self styled policeman. But replying to me, save your breath, I wont be reading it.. Ill save everyone the time and sign off for the final time.. Id rather not catch the 350 chevy, or 460 ford flu.. Carry on.
    1 point
  32. Just couple of points I would like to make; 1. Yes, it is your car at this moment in time but really, we are all just custodians of these wonderful automobiles. You may pass it down to another, let it rot, or sell it on when you have enjoyed it, however, we should always consider our own mark of its history. It may not be a full classic or a rare machine this time in its history but this may change in 10, 30, 100 years time. 2. By installing another engine it doesn't mean it will be safe, or more safe, that will come down to the quality of the workmanship not the type of engine or drive train installed. It will probably cost less in money and time to put it back to an original engine, as others have mentioned, they are not rare and readily available. If you have never done an engine transplant before, it will take much longer than you think, give you lots of head scratching. My 2 cents worth. It's a beautiful car by the way.
    1 point
  33. Well, it looks like part of the problem is my fault. I incorrectly installed the #2 cam bearing upside down causing it to interfere with the #2 cylinder exhaust tappet. This could very well have caused the the chirping noise. Also, the bearing should have been inserted a little further into the block. Fortunately I installed the identical #3 cam bearing correctly. My oil pump looks, feels, and pumps oil fine so I don't know why I have a small fluctuation in oil pressure. The #2 cyl exhaust tappet interferes slightly with the cam bearing. The curved notch in the bearing should be next to the tappet for clearance.
    1 point
  34. Whoever runs this site, yes please remove the post. It’s sad that fellow car guys of any type would treat my post as you all have. in the end, it will be another classic car on the road again and enjoyed. And 55 Fargo, my go fund me comment was a joke to all the foolish comments. I don’t need one to anything I’d like with the car. and Don Coatney, I’m still waiting on that offer. Can’t say it will tempt me. Depends on if your true in the interest or blowing smoke. Thanks anyway guys
    1 point
  35. Installed a buck convertor today instead of the Runtz voltage reducers. With the alternator charging I get 14 to 14.5 volts and the Runtz put out 10v to the gauges which made the fuel gauge goofy and the temp too hot. With the buck convertor, I am down to 6.24 volts to the gauges and all is much smoother.
    1 point
  36. I don't think the bed has carried much more than a sign board, couple of lawn chairs and a cooler. "Working" truck ?, maybe. I got a chance to see it and hear it in person last June. Works for me!
    1 point
  37. I do not have an issue with someone wanting to put a different engine in one of these old cars. However, when I hear that people want to do it because they feel they need to do it to make the car reliable I want to scream. Since I have used a 1947 Desoto nine passenger sedan here AS MY DAILY DRIVER in the middle of San Francisco for over a decade... A 1949 Convertible can be made to be reliable enough for 99% of the driving you will be doing with it. I would get into my restored 1949 Desoto Convertible and drive to go see Don Coatney in a heartbeat if I had a reason without thinking one minute about reliability. Put a SBC in it if that is what you want. But, like another poster said, you can sell the SBC and with that money make the car very reliable. I have been driving single master cylinder cars for 40 years and only once have I had a total failure. It was a brand new wheel cylinder seal that was bad from the factory. I know check them all even if new. But one failure in 40 years is nothing to worry about and the properly adjusted emergency brake slowed the car down just fine and that was on a hill in San Francisco! James.
    1 point
  38. Hey List OLS, Your car, your money, your the piper who calls the tune. Dont expect a group dedicated to Flathead Mopars to dance to your music. This is a Mopar site and you come here flexing a 350 sbc transplant, might be some backlash. I realize it aint a Duesenberg, but it ain't a 49 chebby either. Many on here would feel as I do but might not voice it, I did. Go to the HAMB or Chevy Talk or a streetrod site like Hotrodders Bulletin might be a whole lot more info on this type of swap. I realize reading added posts you have your reasons for this. Again your car, your choice whether I agree or not. Enuff said.
    1 point
  39. Where was the noise coming from... front/rear low high etc. I've seen the front seal rub on the timing chain/or slinger if used...using the wrong front seal or crushed down cover...this of course won't cause oil pressure change though..
    1 point
  40. I have seen new out of the box oil pumps lock up after running shorter times than yours....I would spec this out very closely...
    1 point
  41. Hey Cold Blue, Connect the wires before putting the sender in the tank. Put the float to down or empty and check the gage. If it reads other than empty reverse the wires and check again. Or put the float to full and check. Either way it is an easy fix. Then mark the terminals on the sender put it in the tank and hook it up. Joe Lee
    1 point
  42. A new Champion radiator about $225 on theBay.
    1 point
  43. Well...well...well. ? Whats next? Daily driver status? Tim you crack me up. Regards, Jeff
    1 point
  44. This is the first of several upgrades..... 48D
    1 point
  45. Just came in this afternoon. Serial number 003. If I can get past the cancer,I hope to put it in the dead stock 33 Dodge shown in the photos,and drive it around and enjoy the HELL out of it just like you see it in the photos. This was the type of car I used to see running around when I was a kid that you could buy and enjoy for 50 bucks because I had some hope of one day having 50 bucks. Had and still have practically zero interest in new cars,but I LOVED the hell out of stuff from the 30's and 40's. I will never win any prizes at car shows or runs with it,but you can bet there will be nobody there having more fun than me. Had a local guy ask me last year if I knew anybody interested in buying the good running 251 6 out of his 51 DeSoto for 250 bucks,so I snapped it up and it is now sitting on my garage floor next to the 33 Dodge. I also have dual carb aluminum intake and carbs for it. About the only piece I am missing that I can think of is a set of cast iron headers. so I can run duals. I prefer the sound of the cast iron over the tubular headers. Every time I think about this I want to stop what I am doing and do a little happy dance.
    1 point
  46. Took a drive over to Scottsdale for the afternoon. Car is running fine... Needing shocks though...
    1 point
  47. "DD," my 1942 DeSoto, gets driven at least three times a week for local errands. She is completely stock--including the semi-automatic fluid drive--and runs like a dream. I am working now on DD2--another 1942 DeSoto. This one has some engine modifications, including three carburetors and slightly higher compression. Also a 200R4 transmission. Otherwise, stock....
    1 point
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