Leaderboard

Cool old photo I found on another site. P15 Police Cars.

With the improved weather, got the 1949 Chrysler out for a spin and a bit of youtube filming. Thought I would share it with you after all the assistance from this group. Again, thank you for your help over the months. https://youtu.be/pXzQ0n2iq_Q

My guess on this car is a 1942 Studebaker, possibly a Commander. In the 1948 film "Naked City", the police use a Studebaker of this year. Very rare today. John R

Been busy today with "Tug". Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, transmission are all in. Basic wiring done, radiator plumbed in. He starts from the foot starter and ignition switch is working as are the oil and temp gauges. Sweet. Still need to tidy up the top hose (it's too long, but it's all the local store had).

Just use a bearing splitter and puller something like this... It will pull only on the metal ring below the delicate wheel material..... leave the nut loose on the steering shaft threads to prevent the puller from crushing the threads. Pictures of modern set up and the factory Miller puller like would be used on your P2

And here it is now... it has an azz on it that a Kardashian would be jealous of.

Their too old.

You dated a Kardashian?!??

Charlie of rustyhope is very good about answering questions for his customers, if you lost or are confused with any item on the supply list....I recommend a message back to him for the correct application and source....

AAJ

Belvedere666, I’m certainly no electrical expert, altho’ I’ve wired/rewired my share of cars in my time, I’ve wired motors with both – and + grounds in + ground cars, and never had a problem. Radios, for example, are ground-sensitive. I know a – ground radio connected to a + ground system will fry, as I’ve got a fried lump on my garage floor that was once the radio from our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe. But, electric motors are “ground indifferent”. Now, as to what’s causing your specific situation, I’m sorry, but I’m not much help. I tho’t is it’s something with the voltage reducer, but that just a SWAG. Good luck with this . . . Regards . . .

Do your practice painting on the Dakota with the same brand and type of paint you plan to use on your good truck. All brands and types of paint within those brands spray differently. Use your practice time to acclimate yourself to how the paint for your good truck prefers to be sprayed. As far as prepping the Dakota, wax and grease removal before you start the initial sanding so you don't grind that stuff into it and a good bath (do not use car wash soaps at this point- most contain waxes), use blocks for sanding, longer blocks for flatter areas, x patterns, long strokes. I use a powdered guide coat for dry sanding and the spray guide coat for wet sanding.

Think you nailed it. Detective's ride maybe or impounded.

Just going to beat a few of the dents out with a big hammer, pull the front end out with some chains and a come along, the scotch brite the metal work and clear coat it. The only area I'll do a full cleanup is the cab area, most likely I'll make my own seat covers, I'll have to break out my sewing machine (yes, I really do own a sewing machine)

Some more for you...

I have 3 heavy duty ratchet straps. The first I use to compress the spring by wrapping around the top and lower a arm. Crank it down tight. Then I wrap one around the spring and tighten. Loosen everything and it just fell out. If you are going to reuse the same springs I'd just leave the strap around them in place. Of course you would need 3 straps then. Mine are 2 1/2" wide and quite thick.

The new emergency brake band turned up in the mail. Now I can have a working handbrake

Here is my test piece. Looks like these will work just fine. Only trouble I ran into was the fitting didn't want to slide back after I cranked it down but I am chalking that up to the used line being a little crusty.

With the pre 38 Mopar cars you need the puller that goes around the base of the steering wheel housing and then a bolt pushes against the steering wheel shaft. You might find a Truck puller like a snapon one on ebay for trucks. I have attached a copy of the factory Miller steering wheel puller so you can see how it was done at the dealerships. The correct puller is very hard to find even on Ebay. Some members have used a bearing puller and adaptaed it to work just take your time. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Steering wheel puller Mopar.docx

Yes, you are correct Steve. And as DJ stated, be sure that you know the proper connections on your filter housing. Notice on mine that the oil feeds into the bottom center and comes out at the side near the top. Others feed in near the top and drain out the bottom. It all depends on the filter design. Mine is a sock type.

Both #1 and #6 pistons are at TDC as you state. Both tappets loose on #1 indicates that this cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke. This means that #6 is at the top of the exhaust stroke, which puts the valves in an ‘overlap’ condition. The exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is opening. Depending on the valve timing of this particular engine the exhaust valve could have just closed, allowing the tappet to be loose, but the intake valve is probably beginning to open, hence the tight tappet.

I took it to a body shop to get it painted. Two weeks later, the shop was gone. Cars, business, AND the damn building, nothing but a gravel lot. Apparently, the building was built years before without a permit, upon needing some plumbing repairs, permits were applied for, city inspector got involved & the property owner was given a week to remove everything before incurring fines & everything disappeared. The guy I got it from was a scrap metal guy who bought it as a lot of 20-30 cars from an estate & couldn't bring himself to crush it so he squirrelled it away for another 6-7 years.

Yuck.....and a 350 sbc