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I filed the paperwork at the DMV this morning. All I need now it to get a weight certificate and they will issue me a new title - Yay!!!

First short drive of 2019. Around the block. It’s hard waiting for spring. The heater sure adds an interesting element to cruising...Seems like there’s an “Old Car Smell” air-freshener tucked up in the heating duct. Smells that can trigger memories. Somehow it smells like going for a drive with my Grandpa in 1975, in his old car. Well I guess his car was probably 10 years old in 1975!

Supertraps were the for runner of the fart can on tuner cars they also made them fr performance motor cyces.

Well thats exciting, but too bad about the lifters. I'm curious as to why the rocker arm bolts backed out. You seem to be in a good mood about it, so thats good. Its funny how it makes a guy smile when a new engine comes to life, its a cool feeling. I wonder what your neighbors thought when they saw you blowing in the rear corner of the box! Lol

I use grease. I save the vaseline for use in other more enjoyable ventures. ?

My procedure is to always pack oil pumps with vaseline. That assures quick pickup. That used to be a required procedure for buicks that has the oil pump in the front cover and pickup tube in the rear sump. I just adopted it as standard on all my work. I used to build engines for sale in my Dad's business. They sometimes set on the floor or weeks before sale and sometimes were customer installed. a little vaseline and Good assembly lube is cheap insurance against a dry start.

Here’s a video of us scrambling around- me trying to get him to raise the curb idle screw, filling the rad, watching for leaks, then the bad noise at the end when the rocker shaft loosened up and the pushrods slipped.

Funny how every state is different, should be some sort of uniformity. In Washington while at the dmv with the seller, They told him that he could not write a bill of sale because the truck was not in his name either. And maybe he could write the bill of sale, but was worthless, because was not his to sell ???

Reminds me of the days when you could order a bunch of stuff like this from the J.C. Whitney catalog. Oh the cool stuff they would have in there.

ah, the George McFly model...

It's a tuff gig but someone has to do it....?

They moved to 1 1/8 1st on the canadian 25 1/2" engine in the bigger truck engines and by 1951 all the canadian 25 1/2" camshafts have the larger hubs. I had George Asche tell me if he was regrinding a wild cam he would always use a 1 1/8" cam. That doesnt answer the reason why but given they seemed to start in the heavier trucks it likely had something to do with strength or longevity. A call to George Asche or Tim Kingsbury would likely reveal more than I have for you.

Ah, yes. He seems to be replying to 40desoto. I missed that little tidbit. Thanks for the clarification. Apologies to DJ. I've seen so many of these kind of posts both here and on other sites and I'm always amazed at all the suggestions that come from dang near every state in the Union (and some foreign countries too) when the only thing that matters is how it's done in the state the OP is in. I guess my problem is that I have too much time on my hands. I'm gonna go check my VIN number now.

John S., Of course you are. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your build. A lot of information here, if you need it.

True, a small amount could bypass the radiator via the “bypass” port but it isn’t enough to cause any problems.

Does it die immediately? If so, probably an electrical issue to the ignition system. Ignition switch?

I think he was responding to a similar question from someone other than the original poster, who is in PA. But if I were to have a vehicle registered to an engine number that is no longer with the car, I would work to get it switched to the Serial Number, which I think was arguably the intention of the manufacturer, and it is also most like the VIN which is in use now (both being a tag mounted on the body itself). (Oddly, however, the VIN tag on my 1993 Chrysler T & C was actually mounted on the dash, not the cowl, as one would expect.)

If you paired this with those little propellors that went between your carb & manifold (mini superchargers?) You could probably gain about 100 bhp. Your mileage and horsepower may vary due to something or other.

Also keep in mind the temp rating for the t stat is the point at which it begins to open and allow flow to the radiator. It doesn't mean your engine will operate at whatever temp it's rated for. Also the top of the radiator is meant to be an expansion area too allow for expansion when the system is up to temp. If you fill it too full it will eject the excess coolant. You only need and inch or two additional coolant after the radiator entrance tubes are covered.

Radar, i wouldnt sweat having concentrate coolant in it, if your block was dry I'm sure you'll get a couple gallons of h2o in it after she runs for a bit, i hate burping them though, in my experience it seems when the thermostat opens, half what was in there burps back out and makes a mess, before it finally settles down.

Haha, i shouldn't admit it, but when i ran my plug wires, i put them on clockwise. I knew better, i had just primed the oil pump with my priming shaft (counterclockwise), but i guess i wasn't thinking, she fired right away, but only on 1 and 3 probably, it took me a minute before i realized what I'd done. Switched them and she fired right up. ?

I did the exact same thing as a kid. I didn't realize that it was for light duty work.? John R

It I had that problem I think I would take the straight new one you have to my favorite muffler shop with the picture ( or measurements and angle need) of what was supposed to be and have them make what you needed-price should be reasonable. Done deal! ? Could be either just the straight small part cut off and the angle part welded on or completely remove all the pipe down to the mounting flange and start over make the piece with the angle and weld it all together. Your choice?? Cost that way will probably higher but look original. But that is just me. ? DJ

I got my dipstick tube secured to a header bolt, felt for compression and got #1 a few degrees before tdc, and ran all the sparkplug wires. I have to go open my shop in a little bit so no priming the fuel system and breaking in the cam (hopefully tomorrow) but I wanted to check and see if it would light off so I sprayed a shot of ether down the carb and turned the key. She spoke! Baby’s first words! No more cranking till I can get serious with the timing light and ready to crank up the curb idle for break in.

I put Flowmaster 10 series on my hemi... might be a bit noisy on the highway.

it would appear Mr. JB Neal is on a well deserved vacation so, on his behalf. additional information

Sounds like a good friend to have. ? Watch out for those brutal temperatures. Stay warm, if you can. ?

This is the 1941 P11 Auxillary Seat Coupe I had, it was a factory RHD Export car out of Detroit but assembled in South Africa then imported into Oz in the 1990's and restored by a previous owner to me..............whilst it was a P11 model it came with the bumper tips and overiders, the running boards were a custom setup that someone had made and were a little different to the stock style of running board which didn't actually touch the front & rear fenders but sat 1/2" away from the fenders.........I've also seen front parking light lenses that are a flat style rather than the hooded ones that my car and most others have had........regarding the centre windscreen divider the one on my 1940 dodge was cracked in 4 places so I got a piece of 1" x1/2" brass bar and a piece of 1/4 x 3/8th bar , drilled the small piece to match the inside piece soldered them together and cut the 1 x 1/2" piece to the correct shape and had it chromed, its lasted 45 yrs so far and will never break or corrode like the original ones............BTW.......welcome aboard................regards from Oz, Andy Douglas

Looks like about 13 inches further back than a non world class T-5. Are you going with bucket seats?

I went back out and fired it up. Toward the end of the couple minutes running it there was a rattle- well it was very evident now. It sounded like it was in the driver’s side valvecover and after it didn’t go away like a lifter that just needed to pump up I shut her down and opened up that valvecover. What a pleasure to be able to work on the motor inside the generous firewall recess! The valvecover came off quickly and I discovered that #7 exhaust rocker wasn’t making contact with it’s pushrod. It didn’t just slip off the side- it was 1/2” shorter than all the others. Also the last two rocker shaft bolts had backed out. At first I was worried they stripped out of the aluminum head but no they were fine. This is my first mopar big block and I am a believer now- it only took 30 mins to get the carb, intake, and valley tray off to inspect the lifters. There is no coolant in the intake and I used the brown stuff that never really dries to seal up the steel valley tray/intake shim. Good news/bad news. The bad is that when the shaft loosened up I took out both lifters for #7 cylinder. The exhaust lifter had the pushrod cup sitting next to it in the valley. The intake lifter had its pushrod cup stuck and cocked inside it. The good news is that even though the exhaust lifter puked its guts all the pieces are accounted for and I don’t have to drop the oil pan. Also the bottoms of the lifters and the cam lobes look perfect and never got a chance to mate in so new ones should be fine. I’m going to see if I can order a couple lifters and get back together next week to try break-in again. It’s wierd I was more nervous and anxious this morning before I started working. Now I feel relaxed about it. A little disappointed but just a little more work than planned no big deal.