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Got alot of progress made today! Should be built by the end of week.

I don't know how they actually stapled through the steel. Most of the staples had pulled through and tore slots in the rubber. The staples are still in the steel. I pop riveted the rubber back on using the staples to align the rubber.

Please say you are not going to leave the rusty appearance on it............sorry but crap rods do none of us any favours, the general public sees a crap rod and thinks that all old cars are pieces of crap, then the politicians weigh in to get the crappy old cars off the road and we all get included in the roundup..........and the idea that they are reliving something from the past is not true, no one called their patina'd car "finished"............at least give the old girl a coat of undercoat or something approaching one colour to let her know she's loved................. o/k....I'll get off my soapbox...............lol......Andyd

Installed the flywheel, did some very basic wiring and fired up the replacement motor. Open headers (still have to sort that out), she's running sweet, need to make some adjustments once the radiator and cooling system is installed, but the motor started up pretty easily. Oil pressure is about 40 lbs at idle and is about 60-70 lbs when running at about 2500-3000 rpm, so pretty healthy. Many, many thanks to 59bisquik, this motor seems pretty damn solid.... Onto to installing the clutch and drive train and connecting everything back up.

BobDeSoto. From what I’ve been told by a former patient who worked at a GM factory his entire adult life – the stapler used by the factory uses larger diameter, and harder, wire. The staple’s driven into the thin metal, which is typically abit softer than the staple, exactly perpendicular to the metal, by means of a “foot” (much like a sewing machine foot) holding the work-piece in place during the actual stapling action.

Saw 3 black and whites out driving yesterday which is rare here in Fort Collins. Have only been pulled over once in fifteen years here for not wearing my seatbelt- yep, a real scofflaw. I have an antique set of tail lights that lacks the outer bezels. If I ever find a set of bezels that fit I'll mount them on the rear portion of the stake pocket and higher. It'll be interesting to see which comes first, a ticket or bezels ?

Gotta love the click of the clock... points close....clock rewinds....the sounds of old cars.

I bought one of those tachs and installed it in my WC-12. Hooked it up just like the instruction sheet showed. 6 months later, the tach took a big poop on me. Sent it back for warranty work and on return, it still was not showing the correct RPM’s. Gave up on it. Two years ago, I purchased a vintage Sun D-1 type 3500 rpm tach. Along with the transmitter box, it has run like a top. Yes, the tach this is much larger, but it has the vintage look and most importantly it functions correctly. Hope you don’t have the same problem with yours, that I had on mine. Very nice looking truck by the way.

I do not recall these rear gears ever referred to in X measurement as the later rear gears all seem to be identified. The biggest different in these were if 2 or 4 spider gears....

I'm not sure how to reply to this statement.....

I hope it's OK.

That tach is super cool!!

Quartz conversion.......I never looked back.

ok, tonight I christened the fire pit with our first burn....mums snapped a pic as I was just firing it up.....sat out there for a bit over 4 hours and thoroughly enjoyed the flamage and the quiet of night...neighbors came over for a bit more than two hours and brought all the fixings for Smores....

If my calculations are correct, I should only need about an inch to get sufficient firewall clearance. The nice thing is that I can leave the original radiator placement.

I think you will do fine by the car, its obvious it is in loving hands!

It would be interesting to know which states actually used the engine number for title registration instead of the serial number, which, as some have already said, is the older counterpart of what we have now, the Vehicle Identification Number. (VIN. Being on the obsessive-compulsive side, redundancies like "VIN number" bug me like when people say "consensus of opinion".) Anyway, now that myrant is past, getting back to titles. If it is possible to identify which states used the engine (or frame) number to title a vehicle, it would also be interesting to know for which years they did it this way. But I thought that this thread was about the location of the SN tag, which the MoPar books all is on the left A pillar on P15s, and on the right A pillar on the 42's. Well, my brother had a Plymouth that was, according to the SN, a P15, but the tag was on the Right A pillar. It had been stripped before he got it, so at first I thought it was a '42, but not according to the SN. (He doesn't have the car anymore, but I do have the SN written down someplace.)

It's a custom regrind with 278 duration and 435 lift. Should be plenty peppy and lopey.

Woodrow, Do what you wish. The Clear Sealant cleans up easier than the black sealant with the 3M Cleaner. I know because I have done it both ways on many cars. Mr Doctor would have you breaking your glass out and needing 3 helpers along the way. I used 2 - 2" X 4" 's jutting off my front seat to do my front windshield (remember Petie and Henry)? by myself. Didn't break anything and found and repaired the small leaks afterward with 3M Clear Sealer. Good Luck. Tom

You're going to modify a 42 Plodge ? They aren't just falling out of the sky you know...very rare.

IMHO, the low compression is not the problem with the stumble/hesitation etc. Low compression will definitely cause low power and/or oil burning. But, the engine should still run smoothly, IF the loss is fairly even across the cylinders and the valves are in generally fair to good condition. A leaky valve or two will always cause a rough idle and you stated that it runs good at low speed. Stumbles on acceleration are more often than not due to fuel issues. Accelerator pump not providing a large enough shot, air leak in manifold or vacuum lines etc. You can verify the pump operation easily, just watch the pump shot when opening the butterfly rapidly while looking down the carb throat. I think that year of Olds used a carb with an adjustment for pump throw. Not to say the engine couldn't benefit from a rebuild, but be sure the carb and ignition are perfect. 'Cause if they're not, they won't be if on a rebuilt engine either.

This week I took a ride up to Mass. and visited Andy Bernbaum's My daughter and grandkids are not far from there so it was a good day. AB's Owner, Chris Paquin was very helpful as usual , but after our business he gave me a tour of the warehouse. OMG ! Huge building packed with NOS parts that Andy picked over the many many years. What a treat to see this stuff. It's been years since he bought the business from AB, and he still hasn't gone through it all. Room full of bumpers, stacks of stainless, room with just bearings, another Auto-lite. Shelves of steering wheels ! Kid in a candy store sums it up. Needless to say if you are looking for something check with Chris.

How often does the UPS truck have to drop off all your food needs from Chewy.com? I thought it was rough for me with a 4 kids and 2 dogs.......kids are between 10 and 20 all at the house too....

we aren't using the full valve. Someone discovered the rebuild parts for it are the same as the mopar valve in the above posts. Back when this stuff was new the same supplier must have designed both valves.

Thanks for the advice. It is always good to hear from someone with real world experience. I kicked around the idea of boxing the frame and talked to a couple of local hot rod builders. In the end both recommended against it. The 360 doesn’t put out much in the way of torque and the truck will only see moderate cruising speeds - mostly in-town driving. As far as balance goes, it will be interesting to see how it comes out in the end. The placement of the gas tank and the fact that I am no lightweight should help balance moving the engine to the right some. From what I have been able to gather, the one ton front suspension is a little stouter than the half ton. I am hoping the forward placement of the engine will offer a better ride ( at least in the front). I still expect it to ride like a lumber wagon.

I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again. I painted this on canvas in 2017. My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed. At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck. ? When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. ? Hope you guys like it!

Jan. 25: Well fellas, I'm still working on the carb. I'm not particularly fast at anything, and I like to take my time on things. I have started reassembly though. ? I did remove the retaining clip and check ball from under the accel pump. I used one of my dental pick tools. But I needed a magnet to remove the check ball because it was so dirty under there that it would not pop out on its own. Thanks for that advice guys. Picture number 2: flattening things out on the surface plate at work. That's the way to get it flat!

Genuine authentic Colorful Colorado license plates :: Found 'em on EPAY for a modest amount of cash. Roxanne deserves proper badging, starting with period correct license plates. When we first met she was showing off a 1970’s Colorado Collector Series license plates, which is nice and they do have just the right amount of wear for a truck of this age. When I drove her down to get her registered in my name, they wouldn’t let me use the plates she came with. I ended up buying the Horseless Carriage plates – I think there about $12.00 for a year or so. I’ve been re-thinking that decision because those plates limit your mileage to about two thousand miles per year, and Roxanne isn’t exactly a horseless carriage. Horseless yes, but carriage? No. Epay is the place to shop for vintage plates for your collectible automobiles. Prices range from $20.00 to well over $69.95. While there are plenty of Colorado plates, finding one with 19 50 stamped into the metal is nigh impossible – or so I thought. I ended up finding three different sets. I lost out in a bidding war for the first set, second offer was for one plate only and the third offer was for a set of TT (Truck Tractor) plates for a modest $39.95 plus shipping and tax. It was a Buy Now scenario and the plates arrived today. The seller on EBAY was Tom & Margaret Boyd who goes by ‘licpl8s’. Tom it turns out is a license plate collector who happens to live in Boulder. Yeah, I lost a little respect for him just because he was from Boulder ? He is a bonafide member of APCL. Tom joined the Automobile License Plate Collectors Association in 1982 and has been active at both the international and local level. He served as Vice President of ALPCA and was Editor of ALPCA’s magazine. Locally, Tom was Secretary/Treasurer of Rocky Mountain Regional branch of ALPCA for nineteen years. Tom has co-authored three books on license plates. Here is Tom's EPAY Store > Here is Tom's website >

Not driving any of my Mopars now,but will be driving my stock 31 Plymouth coupe this spring. I finally found the parts I need to rebuild the brakes,the car is complete,and it is also in the way under my lift. So it will be the first to become mobile again. Probably put it up for sale next fall. I can't keep them all,and selling it will give me the cash to put others on the road. Then again,that all depends on how much fun I have driving it and challenging local Model A owners to race me. It is by far the nicest car I own.

you might want to check on the caulk as a concept. I've heard water can be attracted to where you have it and can create some serious corrosion issues. I can take pictures of my buddies windshield falling out due the the rust around his caulking job if you want. Not to mention when you need to take it off again.. I REALLY REALLY REALLY wonder what noise levels are so concerning...as I've stated before, FEF at 55 (or so) MPH I have no issues with a conversion in the cab while hurtling thru time and space.