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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/2019 in all areas

  1. I need to learn to stay off kijiji but I think I found a gem. I felt bad for her out in the cold. It's a 1942 dodge 4dr. Unfortunately she has no known owner, a stray so to speak. Need to get hold of an ownership. I'll be picking it up Saturday and will be able to get a better look at everything and what's with it
    3 points
  2. This week I took a ride up to Mass. and visited Andy Bernbaum's My daughter and grandkids are not far from there so it was a good day. AB's Owner, Chris Paquin was very helpful as usual , but after our business he gave me a tour of the warehouse. OMG ! Huge building packed with NOS parts that Andy picked over the many many years. What a treat to see this stuff. It's been years since he bought the business from AB, and he still hasn't gone through it all. Room full of bumpers, stacks of stainless, room with just bearings, another Auto-lite. Shelves of steering wheels ! Kid in a candy store sums it up. Needless to say if you are looking for something check with Chris.
    2 points
  3. How often does the UPS truck have to drop off all your food needs from Chewy.com? I thought it was rough for me with a 4 kids and 2 dogs.......kids are between 10 and 20 all at the house too....
    2 points
  4. I believe this may explain it is series wound motor just as stater motor is and will spin in one direction even after reversing the polarity. Here is a detailed explanation of the reason a Series Wound starter motor still rotates the same way regardless of battery polarity. When Battery Polarity isreversed both Field and Armature currents are reversed [Because it is Series wound]-rotation direction remains the same.
    2 points
  5. Beer is handled, so bring PUMA. Given today's standards, you could have her as your emotional support animal on the plane!
    2 points
  6. Somewhere...in the reference section of this website, is a factory list of colors for numerous items on the car. Which items were painted and which were a natural metal finish. My engine stuff is pretty much either silver or black. I had to replace my original radiator as it could no longer be repaired.....so I went with an aluminum model. But I did not care for the shiny top and frame......so I masked off the core and painted the rest black. Can not use those air fins on top without having mounting brackets made and attached to the new rad. Will the average spectator at a car show know the difference???? I suspect not. (I do need to put the horns back on.)
    2 points
  7. Lol! You can see more pics here, www.roaringtwenties.net.au
    1 point
  8. I believe that your paint is the original color for my car. when I compare it to my engine bay, which is original paint, it looks identical.
    1 point
  9. Tie-wrap crimp, interesting but no duct tape WTF.
    1 point
  10. Roman (guard dog) is the alpha male for sure, but its Lilly (house dog) that's the fender eater......she'll be in the house this year. Roman and Ridge (other guard dog) will be in the cattle trailer chillin for the afternoon. Moose (house dog) and Peka (house) will be on bedroom duty for the afternoon too....... Sachi (red tailed hawk) is getting a bit old.....she won't be on display but can be visited at the hawk house. Tonto (horse) as always will be in plain site ready to chew on any sheet metal to close to his fence. Never realize how many animals til I have to park'em for the day...lol. OH, and the Missies has a cat now......Jag (stray cat found in the shop) 48D
    1 point
  11. This definitely sounds like my kind of gathering, just won't be able to do it this year. Gonna shoot for next year, by then I'll surely have parts available for those who might need or want them. Flippies are the perfect footwear for beer and darts too!!!!!!
    1 point
  12. I plan on making a lever linkage to my bottom ball valve that I can easily reach on top or a foot control for mine...because yes, the bending over gets old quick!
    1 point
  13. I got this car about 8 months ago, and she's a work in progress. I just finished spiffying up the 218 and I must say I am pleased with the results! I have posted "Before and After" photos for your viewing pleasure... I installed a proper carb linkage while I was at it; the old one was a jack-legged affair for sure. Gonna change one thing - the metal bracket that holds the gas feed return spring is black - I am gonna paint it aluminum like the head. I wish I had a media blaster - I can't get carb bodies to clean up worth a crap just by scrubbing.
    1 point
  14. Roman wouldn't like it when she kicked his arse...
    1 point
  15. Ditto. When we first got our D24, it had two different headlight doors on it. At first glance, it was OK, but once I looked at it a while I could tell something was off. Got a pair to replace them a few years ago and it made a big difference to me. "Common folk" would probably not notice, unless it is someone with an eye for details.
    1 point
  16. I find that general purpose lacquer thinner or Acrylic lacquer thinner in good to clean carbys withpour some in a dish then use a stiff brush with it on the carby, it evaporates quickly also............andyd
    1 point
  17. Maok.......and with a tailwind and the spinnaker set?.............lol..............andyd.
    1 point
  18. As to post #346, I have used Lab-Metal to repair pin holes and larger. I tape the bottom, apply with a flux brush over the top. After it cures, I remove tape and do that side. It has worked well for my park light tins and other small repairs. It's an aluminum putty, not an epoxy. It thins with their solvent and be easily applied to non structural applications. Just seal it with solvent after every use by pouring a cap of solvent on top. I use 16 gauge non galvanized sheet metal, for my repairs. You and your crew might consider getting the body weight off the rotating device and cross bracing with some 1" square tubing. The bad news is, I think you need to find 8 sill support braces that come off the cross supports under the floor. Your's appear to be gone. The supports were a mud magnet. I've repaired one P15 car and flushed the mud from another, and put a 5/8" drain hole in those braces in both cars, with a unibit. As an aside, before winter set in, I jacked the front of my green coupe up and flushed those braces and inner frame tube with a hose. Lot of crap flushed out. There is an air tool that puts a 1/4" flange on sheet metal that aids to your welding in a panel, without butt welding, more metal to weld. Some panels could use a little of both. I also don't weld the parts you bought on the edges, I drill holes in the panel where the spot weld was and weld there. I also use .023 wire with gas for sheet metal. Or .025, whatever is available. You might be able to turn the speed down for larger wire and experiment with the temp setting.
    1 point
  19. Nice. I installed these to protect my plugs from rusting solid.
    1 point
  20. It will be fine, will spin faster.
    1 point
  21. "That forward plate",,,,is solid. The shifter in the rear, is the way it was designed for the 1983 to 1987 TKO 5 speeds...
    1 point
  22. good job, looks great. ? I just picked up a little abrasive blaster from tractor supply, $12.99 Put some baking soda in it to play with and works great. For small jobs, carbs would be perfect. The instruction claim that it is not made for sand, I tried some anyways and would not pick it up. I had a box of baking soda so I opened it up and tried it, works great. Not sure what other abrasives will work in it. Just picked it up yesterday. Has different tips and comes with the pattern deelio .... for etching metal or glass. For $13 worth having it around, I know harbor freight would have something similar.
    1 point
  23. I haven't read all the posts, so someone may have already made this comment. Regarding the Charlotte Ivory color......I believe that color and Sumac Red (a dark red) were only used on convertibles and woody wagons in the P15 models. I did see the Ivory you sprayed looks good...and nothing says you can't use that color for a sedan if you want to. Just thought I would add a little info everyone might not know. You're making good progress......
    1 point
  24. Unfortunate to hear about your new Ram Truck problems. The good news is you get to enjoy the Meadowbrook. I finally have heat in my Windsor but have not yet to driven it this winter. Still doing more work. I tend to stay off the winter roads, spoiling the Windsor. Does this look about right for your headlight ring?
    1 point
  25. It ended up raining all weekend so I couldn’t get much done on the truck. I decided to play around with some fenders for the rear. Since I am not exactly sure what will go on the back of the truck yet, I decided to fab up some simple fenders until I make up my mind. I had ordered a couple of trailer fenders to play around with. Couldn’t find anything wide enough so I decided to split one and make my own.
    1 point
  26. I'm making a comeback! Sometimes life gets in the way of old trucks. Ok here we go for new seals: http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-seal-kit-1956-57 The valve is from a '56 or '57 'Vette. The valve housing looks different but the innards apparently are the same as the 'Ma' version. http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-1956-57
    1 point
  27. Mark is an important part of the BBQ experience....he's my friend and a wealth of knowledge. AND he plays beer darts in his sandals!!! BUT best to hide the silver! LO.L
    1 point
  28. Hope this works.. It's pic of the gas station I worked at in high school. This picture was taken before I worked there. It was a Gulf station when I started. Still had a gravel lot out front, though. Crulus, the man in the pic; built a new Sinclair gas station right behind this one and was still operating it when I worked at this one. I got paid $1.00 per hour, worked 20 hours a week, gas was about .30 a gallon, $1.00 a carload at the drive-in, 20 cent burgers, LOTS of good looking girls, a fully stocked machine in the restroom... Man, I had a GREAT time!! ?
    1 point
  29. Cordell-measure carefully on the 19.5 drop centers. They may not clear the brake drums-especially the inner rears.
    1 point
  30. here it is: stupid photobucket crap still haunting me...
    1 point
  31. The cursory reading of this build card has yielded some interesting information. My great-grandfather's Dodge has spent almost its entire existence in Texas, being delivered in Mineola before finding its way to the Ira Young Plymouth - Dodge Truck dealership in nearby downtown Temple. And as Dad pointed out to me, the only time the truck left Bell County for the next 19 years was to cross the border to the cotton gin or feed store 20 miles north in Moody...Dad then drove it to Lubbock for a year cuz Papa was nearly 90 and couldn't drive the thing anymore, and after Dad finished college, it went back to work as a farm truck for another 9 years before it got parked for burning too much oil and didn't want to start when it was below 50 or when it rained. The build date of June 23, 1948 was later in the model year than I originally estimated, but the truck has the "early" bed fenders; the body numbers match. The motor number of T142-31870 jives with the title I have for the truck, as that is the truck's documented VIN...and since the truck has had a '55 Plymouth 230 in it since sometime in the 60s, the title VIN is no where to be seen on the truck, which gets kinda tricky to explain to the uneducated state vehicle inspectors. column 29: Dodge Truck Green appears to be color code 5 column 31: 4.1 axle ratio appears to be ratio code 4 column 32: semi-floating axle appears to be axle code 1 column 34-38: the wheels are 16 x 4 disc, so the tires are probably 6.00-16 or 6.50-16 for tire code 4 column 39: could be SHIP VIA punched out; I am guessing this is a mode of shipment code for truck, train or ship column 54: code 3 punched for bumpers; I am unsure if this means front bumper with grill guards or no rear bumper column 55: code 3 punched for delux.body; this truck has cab corner windows, door vent windows, electric windshield wipers, dome light, and driver visor and arm rest column 63: code 5 punched for air cl. o. f.; this truck has a 1 quart fluid capacity oil-bath air filter No codes are punched for optional springs, shocks, transmission, generator, visor, mirrors, battery, or special accessories, so this truck appears to be an economy model with a deluxe cab or it may have been a custom cab that had been updated sometime in the 60s as the vinyl seat covering and door panels are not original. The custom rear bumper that has been attached to this buggy for over half a century will stay, and I will not be adding a heater as I don't like to drive this truck when it gets below 40...I plan on adding functional seat belts and maybe some sort of radio, but that's a little ways off yet. So another piece of the puzzle has been found and a picture of what my goals are for this project have become clearer.
    1 point
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