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new guy with a new toy 1953 Dodge Coronet ... barn car 33 k original miles came with a parts car

My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.

Shave the head, two carbs and duals, with a slightly bigger cam than stock.....that will perk it right up if you damage anything with that simple combo then its operator error. All for less than $1,500.......

No sweat handling the bike but not so sure about her! What a ride, love old Triumph! ? DJ

And of course more demand then as motors often need a partial rebuild at 60-70,000 miles and were usually done by 100,000. Verses today where 100,000 miles is just getting broke in.

Yes... two revolutions of the crankshaft... not four.

I have a flywheel off of a 265 flathead that's leaving me puzzled. The flywheel has the standard 6-bolt pattern for the 10" clutch, but the pattern for the 11" clutch is 8-bolt. The only 11" pressure plates I've seen are 6-bolt. Here's a little more info: 146 tooth ring gear, 8-bolt crank. What flywheel do I have? Thanks, DW Just a quick follow-up. The 11", 8-bolt pressure plate was used on 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ton Dodge trucks from 1941-1960. The pressure plates are still available. DW

I've been searching for the rubber body mounts for the 55. Cheapest that I can find is $175 for 28 pieces of rubber. I decided to make my own. 1. I bought a sheet of 1/2" and a sheet of 5/8" thick rubber. 2. cut out the 14 2 1/8" x 1/2" square pieces. 3. used a spade bit 1 1/4" to make the inset for the steel washer in the bottom. 4. next I drilled the 3/4" hole through the middle using the hole that the point of the spade bit made when it exited on the other side to center the 3/4" arbor bit. That finished the square parts. 5. the round parts I cut out using a 1 3/8" hole saw 6. I then used the same 3/4" arbor bit for the center hole. Total cost $35.

you can buy NEW nails so you don't have to worry about keeping the old ones, and once installed they seal up nice and tight. The weatherstrip itself acts like a seal as well.

Love that simple instrument layout.

I like Ann Margret on a Triumph

why not just get new bullets?? I get saving some of the more unique stuff but I believe you can buy a modern bullet connector that will do the job just as well as the OEM stuff

Pull the #1 plug- Put your thumb over the hole and crank the engine till you feel compression pressure then stop cranking- look at the timing marks and pointer- rotate the crank till pointer lines up with "0". If the timing gears and chain are installed properly, you are now at top dead center compression stroke on #1 cyl. Install the dizzy with the rotor at 7 o'clock and there ya are.

I have enough that I could put eight across the front ......hmmmm 48D

I would only pay attention to cylinder number 1. As mentioned, it takes two revolutions of crank shaft to complete cycle. So intake valve opens as piston drops, to let air/fuel into cylinder, then intake closes and piston starts to come back up. When piston is at top, that is top dead center and ready to fire that cylinder.

I'm gonna have to agree with Dave72, Rockauto is just a vendor not the manufacturer. I have ordered for Rockauto dozens on times with no issues. However, when it comes to brake cylinders and master cylinders, I have bought from some of the board recommended vendors and had issues with both parts. Unfortunately it seems to be the nature of some of the replacemnt parts. One of the reasons I upgraded to disc brakes and a dual master

I doubt Rock auto manufactured the part themselves, actual manufacturer probably supplying any number of vendors, including the popular parts house suppliers. Unfortunately, the quality of wheel cylinders is a much too frequent topic. I'm hoping the new cylinders I bought for a 20 year newer project are OK.

Can't say for certain on 1 tons but my 3/4 ton had 9/16" studs originally. 9/16" studs were not available from any source. I ended up getting 5/8" studs and bored out the holes in the wheels. I believe Dorman was the source I ended up using. Was a PITA but it all worked out. Jeff

I just measured up the length I figured I’d need, then went over to the local True Value Hardware store and rummaged through their spring drawers and found one that looked like it would work... And it seems to be working just fine.

Does anyone of you know a Sirometer ? I always wanted to know the rpm of the engine when traffic forces to rush a bit on the main roads. Sure, I did calculate the rpm inr elation to a specific speed, but I always felt uncomfortable at main road speed where the engine starts to sound like a circular saw. So I was looking for a 6V 6 cyl. rev counter which I finally found and installed some days ago. But after a first test I was very disappointed. With just a bit throttle it indicated about 3.000 rpm. Then I found a tiny screw on the backside of the instrument, which allows to adjust the indication over a fairly wide range. But how to adjust it when you don`t know the real rpm ??? Here comes the Sirometer ! This mechanical rpm measuring device has been my Dad`s pride and joy since he was a young man. He did RC model plane stuff and took the Sirometer to tune his model engines. I went to him but he mentioned that he unfortunately lost it some years ago (he still mourns after it). So I did a www. search and to my surprise the company who made it still exists ! I ordered two (one he will get to his 79th birthday this year ? How does it work ? It simply analyses the revolutions through the vibration of the engine which are led to an adjustable wire. When it swings it has picked up the exact rpms and shows it on a scale. Super simple in application but certainly not simple to invite and develop such a thing ! If of interest -> http://www.treysit.com/english/

I run 5 point harnesses in both of my sand cars. I cant imagine wanting them in a street driven vehicle. They have to be very snug to be effective which really restricts movement (like rolling down the passenger window, cowl vent or adjusting the radio) versus self retracting car belts or lap belts.

Bypass resistors and get a PWM regulator. It controls fan motor speed by square pulse. Regulate fan speed with multi turn knob. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=6V-90V+15A+PWM+DC+Motor+Speed+Control+PWM+Controller+12V+24V+48V+64V+72V+1000W&_sacat=0

1940 Plymouth Truck ,PT 105 ,98 % Original