Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 1940 Plymouth Truck ,PT 105 ,98 % Original
    7 points
  2. Hey that truck has Paultina.......
    2 points
  3. Ok, I have an update. This past Wednesday evening, I decided to give it a little go, by just trying the worst-looking stud. It was the rear-most stud. I turned the engine on its side (on the engine stand), took a pair of nuts, tightened them against each other and began applying some force with an open-end wrench on the bottom nut, in the loosening direction. At first, the nuts just turned on the stud, so I tightened up the nuts about as hard as I felt comfortable without stripping them. Then it was back at it with the wrench on the lower nut. To my surprise, the stud started to turn. I kept at it until I thought I could grip it with my vice-grips (not clamped down, but just using them like an ordinary pair of pliers) and I did this until the stud was out. Ok, I said, that went well....let's try another one. So I moved on to the next one and did the same thing. After the third or fourth one, I stopped using the two nuts and just used the vice-grips to get a very firm grip on the studs and removed them that way. Unbelievably, they all came out that way in less than an hour, except for the final one, which was the front-most one. I worked on that one for a little while, spraying penetrating oil and tapping with a brass mallet, grabbing with vice-grips, double-nutting it, etc., and it didn't budge. So....I let it sit with penetrating oil for a couple of days, till just a few minutes ago, when I went out there and tapped on it some more (actually several fairly sharp raps in all directions), then did the double-nut thing with the open-end wrench AND the vice-grips clamped down really tightly, placed 180 degrees opposite the wrench. I grabbed the wrench with one hand and vice-grips with the other and applied quite a bit of force to each. I was a little afraid I was getting close to the point where the stud could twist off, so was about to give up and try some heat, when.....voila!....the stud started to turn. So I kept at this until it was removed, though it fought me most of the way. But in the end, I prevailed. Now I have a nice, stud-free manifold mating surface. I'm glad I went ahead and did this. It was really a pretty small effort. I think I will now try to clean up the surface with a few light file strokes, or maybe a very brief/light sanding with my Black and Decker Mouse (which is a small orbital type of sander, I guess you'd say), as the manifold surface looks somewhat pitted. I suppose I could even take it back to my machinist and have him surface that region to get it really good, but not sure if need to do that and I'd prefer to avoid it if possible. Following that, I will clean out the threaded holes with a thread chaser, and spray the holes nice and clean with brake parts cleaner and install new studs with sealant or maybe anti-seize as suggested by MB Fowler in his post above. Thanks to everyone for the tips and more importantly for giving me the nudge to proceed with this. I was afraid it would going to turn into a nightmare, but it worked out amazingly well. I know it doesn't work out this way a lot of times, but I suppose I got lucky. I guess I was due, considering the trouble I've had with other areas of the project, LOL.
    1 point
  4. any direction you go, you will need to fabricate a bracket to hold the calipers . So you want to get he brackets from people that know what is going on. Experience from those that failed .... The advice is worth more then price of admission . Just saying, with the brackets from rusty hope, you get a list of dodge rotors, ford calipers, and various years of bearings and seals to make it all work. I simply cant send you the info when someone has worked years to acquire it. Lot of work went into this in the past. Something to remember, ol Rusty is a active member on this forum .... I need his help and not throwing him under the bus to others.
    1 point
  5. my point is, you can make it work on your own, the rusty hope kit is so cheap and just selling info and a bracket .... well worth the price
    1 point
  6. Hood welting option: https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/body/hood/hood-parts/hood-welt-kit-with-rivets-top-of-grille-fits-41-66-mb-gpw-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38-m38a1
    1 point
  7. That's exactly the PCV valve system on my truck! All the Power Wagons were set up like that. I don't know what that thing is either on the radiator hose in the first video. The main reason was most of the time, the truck stayed stationary and didn't move while the engine ran providing power for some application, so a draft tube would be worthless ventilating the crank case. The M37 were designed to ford in 28" of water, and with little modifications to ignition system, a civilian truck could do the same.. Now, the Power Wagons also used a very similar PCV valve for power brakes hooked to the power brake booster as well.
    1 point
  8. Not sure where you sourced your head gasket. Maybe you mentioned on a prior page. The gasket manufacturer should tell you whether or not you should apply a sealant/spray or not, and if so, what kind. My gasket set came from Best Gaskets, and their website recommends use of copper spray, at least for the gaskets that have a copper sheet on both sides, like mine. In general, though, I tend to think that a little copper spray is good for most head gaskets.
    1 point
  9. A light spray of a copper gasket sealer should be a good idea......those one eared nuts are decidedly odd..........I suppose then its almost impossible to over tighten them with one ear..........lol............original or not they'd be in my garbage bin..........lol...........I used to happily sell the Chopper books in my bookshop but always thought he was a moron............lol..............andyd
    1 point
  10. most all companies are marketing kits that use rotors with integral hubs...these will allow use on the original spindle with often the use of a machined sleeve or spacer as part of the install kit. Ask any company that you are entertaining to purchase kit as to the details and instructions up front on their installation. As stated, above, a kit or two may have special machined hubs in the kit allowing the use of top hat rotors...that in long term often makes repair easier and keeps cost of down the road maintenance and replacement purchases less expensive. though you may pay a few dollars more in the beginning. As in all things, do read up on the subject....there are plenty of good threads on this forum to entertain and inform you just by doing a search...the search feature will eliminate the time involved waiting on that one person who feels like typing out a long narrative...
    1 point
  11. During this rainy day, I was doing some follow-up research on universal joints that had been discussed earlier. The Cleveland type u-joints are not easy to find these days, though there are listings at Roberts, MoparMall and DCM. These units appear to fit, but the grease zerk is not as easily accessible as the original design, which was not a bike ride to get to either. I found a part number that grey beard had used, but my research looks like that economically priced u-joint is similar to the internal locked unit used earlier in post #25. So for now, I reckon the limits of our choices are to use a Cleveland-type u-joint that is difficult to lubricate or to use a modern u-joint that is "close enough"
    1 point
  12. Looks like I havent put an updated photo on this thread since 2017. Here is the most recent pic... Will have more at Viva in April.
    1 point
  13. I plan on being there again this year with a big 'ol chunck 'o smoked meat too....(as long as they don't keep pushing off my surgery)!!! I'll be calling you soon Tim!!....and here is a brisket pic from last year!
    1 point
  14. Hey I have a blue (ish) truck ?
    1 point
  15. Took a drive over to Scottsdale for the afternoon. Car is running fine... Needing shocks though...
    1 point
  16. Somebody in Chicago is using this '50 year-round. My daughter took this picture last night!!
    1 point
  17. Here's my testimony. Driving alone along the coastal route "the Seven Bridges Road" from my home town Kokkola towards Jakobstad. August 2018.
    1 point
  18. TOOLBOX ARSENAL: After 10 years of stewing on it, I finally figured out how to utilize the caddy for a long-gone pressure washer with some scrap lumber and PVC pipe...it's a gravity feed driveway painter...since the local used oil collection places decided they didn't want my used oil any more, I worked on a special formulation to convert the used oil into driveway paint...the only color I can make is black, but it works well...much faster then when I was painting the driveway by hand
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use