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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2019 in all areas

  1. Don't drive during winter here in Wisconsin but do get around during better weather. 1-Driving thru Metropolis IL, 2-Memphis, 3-Arrive Daytona, 4-Daytona Beach for the Turkey Run, 5-Talledega Speedway on the trip home. Also have some photos somewhere of the car at Operaland, Don Garlits museum, and in Daytona Speedway pits. 3700 mile trip, just my wife and my 48 P15, 440 powered.
    3 points
  2. I'm about 90% complete on a removable jump-seat/ storage box for my surf-theme '47'. The bench is made of recycled oak flooring over a modified a.t.v. rear seat frame. The red ribbing matches my cab floor. The seat-back is a skateboard deck covered in my interior upholstery. The box is fabbed out of a 4' x 4' sheet of marine 'Starboard' and covered with my leftover headliner. I ordered steam-trunk hardware online to disguise it. I've been tapping rivets with my little hammer like a shoe cobbler in my kitchen all evening. Finally a lockable space for my jack, jump starter, tools and toys. Box is 32"w. x 22" d. x 12" h. This set-up could work in any truck bed and the seat could be 'hung' from the side bedwalls minus my subframe as well.
    2 points
  3. My ‘50 1 ton prior to an engine removal.
    2 points
  4. Drove my 49 for a month while my kid was home from college. rain, shine, hail and a leaky windshield, added another 1000 miles to the clock... Need to revisit the vacuum wipers
    2 points
  5. "DD," my 1942 DeSoto, gets driven at least three times a week for local errands. She is completely stock--including the semi-automatic fluid drive--and runs like a dream. I am working now on DD2--another 1942 DeSoto. This one has some engine modifications, including three carburetors and slightly higher compression. Also a 200R4 transmission. Otherwise, stock....
    2 points
  6. Gets parked most of the winter. But drive it as much as I can manage the rest of the year. Hits 75 mph almost every drive.
    2 points
  7. Pouring down rain this morning. Flood watch in effect. Headed to the shop in the dark when out of nowhere a huge fallen pine tree is hanging into my lane. At 45 mph it hit the roof on the passenger side near the corner of the windshield. Was expecting broken glass and significant damage. Nada.....zip....nothing. Not even a scratch. Got to love that old Detroit Iron. I am positive an impact like this would have messed up a newer truck. And yet the only evidence is a few pine needles. And an elevated heartbeat..... Old Pilothouse trucks RULE! Jeff
    1 point
  8. Whenever the towing issue pops up on a vintage machine, I notice ppl overlook one thing: speed...these trucks were designed before the advent of the interstate highway system, and from what I've seen and heard, speed limits back then, in many locations, were much lower than today, somewhere in the 40mph range. This was done for safety reasons as bias ply tires and unboosted drum brakes were prominent. So the vintage machines could do the work, but not in any hurry...modern powertrains have more power (to go and to whoa), and are more stable with radial tires and robust suspensions. So whenever somebody wants modern performance with the retro look, then I recommend going with the body swap on the modern powertrain...the framework is proven, so grafting the body onto it is the real challenge, not engineering a powertrain into an antiquated framework
    1 point
  9. Did a bunch of that shifting 2nd to 3rd without the clutch with my D-24. Did it with some others in the past as well. Just have to get the engine speed right to not be embarrassed by grinding noises?
    1 point
  10. That turned out really cool looking! You dont need to look under the hood to see that it doesnt have the original engine! Good job.
    1 point
  11. Its just a mopar. Made in prodigious quantity to be driven. If they get rare and collectible next month someone will buy it from you and restore it. Until that unlikely event do what you want with it.
    1 point
  12. Well said... We are all building the perfect beast in our own way. Even if it is bone stock...Still your baby
    1 point
  13. I have a '48 SD Club Coupe that I have put a SB Stroker in. Rock on brother!!! The steering box will be an issue. Butch's in Dayton has a kit that has a trans crossmember that will accommodate a below floor power brake unit that has worked out very well.
    1 point
  14. Thanks NYer! Haha I actually just went on amazon and spent $15 on a snorkel. It’s gonna be so nice to be able to breathe and see at the same time under the hood!
    1 point
  15. Working on the radio to get it operational. Made the decision to fix it myself. To me, that's the fun of these vintage cars! Did a lot of on-line research to school myself on how to bring the radio back from the dead. The first step is to replace all the paper capacitors. After 70 years, they dry out and no longer function as designed. Suprisingly, the tubes probably don't need replacing. All info says because they are sealed units, they generally don't bite the dust. The mechanical parts of the radio appear to work fine; just need some light lubing and adjusting. I can't wait to hear the radio work for the fist time in probably forever! I am keeping the original dash speaker too if i can. Will let everyone know how this turns out. Best regards, Blue. And by the way, my research says that the Motorola CR8 radio was installed by the factory as an "aftermarket" unit. I guess that having the Motorola nameplate on it, and not "Plymouth" is why it's labeled "aftermarket". Just seems funny to me....
    1 point
  16. As for querying LS motor and 4l60e swaps on the HAMB, your thread will eventually be deleted as they are very much against the discussion of any parts/technology newer than 1965. Been there done that. Not the friendliest bunch unless you are trying to build something that uses ancient technology.
    1 point
  17. There have been several posts that show the amazing number and variety of '50's vehicles there, and you really need to look closely to determine which are survivors and which are held together w/wire and bondo and Russian drive trains, etc. I haven't been there, but would be interested in going if the opportunity arises. ?
    1 point
  18. Hi Glen, this is how I ran my B3B
    1 point
  19. 413's only came in the 4 ton "Y" series Dodge trucks....and where more powerful than the original engines in the early M35 gas engines.
    1 point
  20. I did some testing on a Power Wagon PCV setup that was based on basically several technical service bulletins that are in the Downloads Section...there is a vacuum tube from the oil filler tube up to the base of the carburetor. Just plumbing a PCV valve from the draft tube port to the intake manifold stopped the exhaust fumes that leaked into the engine compartment from the draft tube, but some fumes would be visible from the oil filler neck filtered cap at shutdown.
    1 point
  21. The first time I have ever seen a brochure shot of the D-25.......
    1 point
  22. most pressed steel braces that I have dis assembled have the shim on both sides. Cast iron braces such as those on the fluid drive did not. Rule of thumb here is nothing needs to be overtightened of forced. Ever.
    1 point
  23. Attached a Word file with the info you need for your truck. I pulled this from another site for my truck and did not author the write-up but it seems to provide enough information to build the wood components for 39-47 Mopar trucks. Good Luck. _BedWoodDimensions (1).rtf
    1 point
  24. Work in progress- my supervisor is in the one shot!
    1 point
  25. My son-in-law, the oldest of the bunch at his mid-50's, remarked that 50 is the new 35, but 9:30 is the new midnight. Which reminds me, for New year's, my wife and I stayed up til 10:00.
    1 point
  26. Here is a link. Use a rheostat switch for variable speed.https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical-16777/motors---actuators-25143/blower-motor-12457/0da7cd2eedaa?q=Blower+Motor&prodAttr_19769=No
    1 point
  27. Had my 37 out yesterday to visit a local guy who has a black 35 Dodge coupe in the background. The 35 is a nice driver/survivor hot rod that is for sale. I have posted it in the Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals section.
    1 point
  28. IMO, your suspension, if in good condition, is more than adequate for a reasonable trailer weight. That is assuming you will be happy with the cruise speed afforded by the rear gears. The bigger issue will be power. It takes a fair amount of HP to drag a big box down the highway. If you want to lower the cruise RPM using a different differential gearset, the power issue becomes more difficult. Adding power by changing to a modern engine may be a requirment, if you need more speed, or are in mountainous areas.
    1 point
  29. I have been driving my 1950 Special Deluxe every day for the last week. I have more cars than drivers so I rotate through the fleet so they all get exercised every couple of weeks. Here it is sitting in the parking lot at work. One of these is not like the others, can you pick out the vintage Plymouth?
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. I will never forget the look on Marks face when his nephew stepped on the running board on our way to back to the fifties. “Priceless”
    1 point
  32. I think the slow-turning fan was just an illusion caused by the camera recording speed. I believe the engine was idling the whole time it appeared to be cranking slowly. You can see the fan appear to speed up, slow down, even go backward throughout the video. Maybe you knew that and were just joking, but I thought I'd mention it, in case you weren't joking.
    1 point
  33. Mr. 49 Dodge, You, sir, are sharper'n the average bear. Quite obviously you have given the PCV issue some serious thought. AND you are absolutely right. After I put my on PCV system - from VPW, a military package, I'm sure - I found that at part throttle cruising at a steady speed, I had a buck or surge. When you have a 4:10 rear, this can be pretty noticeable. Thinking about this whilst I drove around last summer, I tried pulling the choke out just a tad. The surge cleared right up and she ran as smooth as could be. Ahaaa, I thought to myseklf, the PCV is leaning out the main metering circuit just a little too much. So I pulled the top off my carb and checked the float level - right on spec, so I couldn't play with that. After more thought, I removed the big brass PCV valve I got from VPW and substituted a much smaller diameter valve from a similar displacement modern engine - just used vacuum hose for the connections where the original had been threaded together on the steel pipe coming from the block. This smaller PCV valve fixed the problem to a 90 percent satisfaction level on my part. I now believe the rig VPW sold to me may have been from a big block trick military engine - waaaay too much vacuum flow for my diminutive 218 pickup. In summary, your concerns are well-founded. The pcv valve gotta' match the displacement of the engine, and a perfect match may require drilling out the main metering jet just a scotch or two - mebby two or three dirll numbers larger. But that'll wait till this summer when I get my rebuilt distributor installed. Good Luck
    1 point
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