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Just joined this great forum. I have a '40 DeSoto Deluxe 2 door sedan that my great grandfather owned. It doesn't run as the engine is seized. Has a 3 speed trans. Car is complete, showing 29k on odometer. It hasn't been registered since 1964. My goal is to get it running and drive it. So I'll be on here learning about this cool old car. Thanks

I usually call in my order via phone.....nary a problem...on long items like door fuzzy strip....those that are 8 foot long, they will cut a specific length for packing into a tube 6 foot or smaller.....allows you to get the 8 foot lengths and not pay arm and a leg to ship. But you will need to know your cut so not to have waste. When I would attend a swap meet they were scheduled to attend, I would call to ensure some of the mopar stuff I needed would be on hand for pick up under my name....mobile, they cannot carry everything....if you have a swap meet in your area, check their schedule...they very accommodating.

I cut out the rubber floor today. I think I will smooth the welds on the console and leave the rest under the rubber. It isn’t all perfect and beautiful but there aren’t any bad boogers or holes. I gotta work on sinking my tacks in better so I can run over them without a bump.

In an attempt to keep the Building Thread "clean"... I thought I start this thread until its no longer needed. I appreciate Don C's comments and want to "move" it here and leave him the spot for his brake build, T-5, and whatever else he wants. I think 49dodge1ton has the concept down perfect and is a good example of how I saw this working. Any other ideas are definately welcome. 48D Don's comment "So many folks do a build-project-modification-work on a new vehicle-etc, and soon start a new thread for every nut they tighten. This makes it very difficult to follow progress. All build-project-modification-etc. threads should contain a starting point and closure once , and when, the job is completed. Bill Story (for one) is a master of this idea as his long thread tells the whole story. If someone does not want to read the whole story but only the last posting then they can point there mouse on this icon and go directly to the last posting. Also as this thread is "links" only no pictures should be allowed. This possible rule has already been violated and hopefully GTK will find a way to get around this. (those pictures have since been removed) Also the link discription should be very specific to the work so someone doing the same job can research what others have done. No for sale stuff, off topic stuff, I dont like this vendor stuff, etc. should be allowed. This should be only a reference starting point for anyone looking to see what others have done. Once again, GREAT IDEA!"

This is a cool bike. I dont know much about bikes. Someone might enjoy this one.

Bet you would! Makes it easy to see why. The stock Pan is most likely worth 3+ times ( restored stock) what a '09 road king is, not even looking at rarity of the Pans these days. ? DJ

Here’s a few I built frame up

I've seen a few members do this recently, and I recall seeing this on the HAMB back before it got overrun by crazy ppl: putting "Build Thread" in the title of their build thread. Since a sticky on the Links to Building Threads would require constant moderation of the thread itself, members can put "Build Thread" in the title of the thread that their major work is being shown...that phrase can be used in the search engine to produce a directory of sorts that does not require moderator oversight. I have edited my build threads to show this info in the titles to get the ball rolling...

AFAIK,any flat 6 Plymouth or Dodge engine up to 1959,which I think was the last year of the flat 6.

Thanks DrDoctor!!! It was actually my great-grandfathers car. Best I can tell he bought it used in 1953 (I have the title from 1953). When he passed away around 1963 or 64 they had his farm sale and my uncle purchased the car. My uncle pulled it home and never did anything with it. Then in the fall of 2017 my uncle (in his 80s) had a sale and sold off about 40 of his cars from his collection and this one was on the list. My dad and I were looking at the sales list of cars selling and my dad said "that was my grandfathers old car". I knew then I had to have it to keep it in the family. Hopefully one of my kids will pass it on to their kids. I do all my own work as much as I can and love working on older pieces of machinery. This is my first "Mopar".

I've got a 'mini hot tank' for cleaning small difficult parts. A commercial grade two element countertop stove and a stainless buffet container. It's about 12 x 24 and 6 inches deep. Water and a lot of purple power or simple green and a long soak/simmer on the stove followed by a good good hot water rinse gets everything spotless. rods, bolts, oil pickup etc get dropped in that and makes quick work of prep. On really tough things, I add some lye. But, that's getting hard to find as all the stores have it under lock and key. Seems it's part of a meth recipe.

OK thanks for the info - if I stay with a Flathead, I would go with a reground cam and hi-compression head from Edgy-Mopar Montana, and then the dual carbs and header setup So I could start with a fresh short block I just got my reprinted Parts Manuals - I am going to look over the V8 conversion, from everything I have read the early poly (scallopped valve covers) and early Hemi are the same block So I would think either V8 would go in. On the 265, I need to keep doing my homework before I decide - I do like the idea of a vintage hop-up on the 6, granted more expensive and less HP than either of the V8's I also like the later 318 Poly - had one in my first car - cool engine!

It is possible to have the side and back glass cut by a local auto glass company...I took mine out carefully, even the busted up side glass, and the local glass guy used them as templates to cut from the same glass that he uses to replace glass on big rigs. It worked great and was fairly economically priced

I was able to get the rear brakes installed today. Glad I ordered the brake hardware kit - saved a lot of time cleaning parts. Hopefully we get a break from the rain next weekend so I can hang the rear end and start working on driveline angles.

Thats looks great ! John

Started the cleanup under the chassis, yet another dirty job. After the cleanup I went back over the chassis with some Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer, have to finish the other side of the chassis and add a top coat.

I am not familiar with the 2nd series designation, but do know that '54 thru early '55 cabs and doors were called C-1 and unique, and late '55 thru '56 cabs and doors were called C-3 and of a different configuration...the C-3 cabs were used in the Power Giant D-series, as well as heavy trucks into the early 70s. The C-3 doors were different than D-series doors in sheet metal, but the door glass is the same. So if you are ordering glass from a catalog, you want '54 ordering info only...'55 is too confusing, because of the mid-year change, anything after '55 or before '54 will not work, unless it's been incorrectly marked or warehoused

Thank you Fargo for confirming

How about this one ?

Work in progress- my supervisor is in the one shot!

I hate to say this but if your machinist does not know how tight the bushing fit is in the rod... well.... He is not well heeled in connecting rod re- conditioning. There are plenty of sources on this press fit info available to him. I found these general sources... he must have access to a commercial engine re- builders services or another machine shop that can help him out. I have never seen in any MoPar shop manual this press fit data. It's known among the machine shop old timers I'm sure. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/bushing-press-fit-93752/ https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=960505

My 1948 B-1-D

Some of mine are sleeping in the cold....

Welcome!! Nice Panel If you have the serial number, you can plug it in here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php The engine should have a serial number stamped on the side of the head above the generator. The '50 motor would have started with T-172******* http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Both Roberts and Bernbaum are forum sponsors: http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/trucks http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts.aspx More vendors: http://www.dodgecentralmi.com/ocart/ http://www.steelerubber.com/ http://www.pilothouseinteriors.com/ A great reference book: http://www.amazon.com/Dodge-B-Series-Trucks-Restorers-Collectors/dp/1583880879 More knowledge: http://dodgepilothouseclub.com/know/know.htm

There is no problem too mundane and simple that can't be enlarged and made more time consuming, expensive and important by finding something else to fix "as long as you're in there".