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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/06/2019 in all areas

  1. A HAPPY 87th BIRTHDAY to Mr. Asche! George was born on February 6, 1932. He's been wonderful over the years in sharing his tremendous Mopar Flathead technical knowledge to all of us!
    6 points
  2. Make sure the oil tube from side to side is in correct or it will rub on the crankshaft.
    3 points
  3. Well, the rain is here, and its falling on the weekends instead of the weekdays..... So I'm giving up a certain amount of sleep to get things ready around here. I work nights, which means I normally sleep during the day....been doing that for 20+ years now. The drought has been rough on my plant life here, and it doesn't help I'm not a green thumb kinda guy. But the wet weather might mean I have a renewed chance to replant and try again...lol. I'm also building a new corral in the "parking lot" area that most have become used to, so I'll need to point that out to the regulars least they become roped and branded by mistake....:D Any locals that have a free day, please give me shout and I'll take you up on a visit. ITS 2 MONTHS AWAY!!!!! WHOHOOO!! Tim aka 48Dodger
    2 points
  4. I use an ignition ballast resistor on the heater motors for my 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth. Been using them for years (although not every day drivers) w/o an issue. Those motors are tough-I pulled one out of my parts truck that had been sitting in the woods w/o windshields in it for at least 25 yrs.. The motor looked shot, but when I hooked it up to a batt it ran fine, and quiet. I oiled it, and put it on the shelf in case I ever need it.
    2 points
  5. It's a special fitting because of the needle seat required at one end. Both styles shown...
    2 points
  6. For me it showed up doing a pressure test with an external tank before putting on the clutch and in the truck!
    2 points
  7. Also mentioned in the Service Reference Book ,1950 Gauges
    1 point
  8. The small hole is mentioned in the shop manual
    1 point
  9. I sprayed a couple of coats on the firewall, dash and door pillars.
    1 point
  10. For what its worth, mine is a '51 B3B, as verified by the VIN forum registration numbers, but the rear fenders are rectangular, from a '53, as has been pointed out by some here in this forum, and must have been done by the previous owner in the restoration, using whatever parts were available. See the picture of my pickup.
    1 point
  11. I got a wild hair to kill 2 birds with one stone as I needed to visit the local locksmith, so I figured I'd get a key cut for the Spring Special since it didn't have one supplied by the previous owner. I carefully removed the ignition switch from the dash, and mr. butterfingers dropped it on the floorboards...that's when I noticed the cylinder had fallen out of the switch. Upon further examination, it appears that somebody took the pins out of the cylinder, and all ya needed to operate the switch was a used corn dog stick
    1 point
  12. The 5 on the dissy side of the block are 1 & 5/8th diameter, I always replace them with brass plugs, never steel and use a drift approximately 1/2" to 3/4" inch in diameter, even a large coach bolt with their large rounded head can work with the head against the plug tho hitting the opposite end of the bolt may buggar its threads...............plus some sort of non hardening gasket goo is useful so long as the hole edges in the block have been cleaned...........but as you don't want to do this again some sort of stop leak stuff should work, but isn't realy the best way but will work.............have you tried to give the plug another tap if its accessible?............regards, andyd.
    1 point
  13. Apart from the steering box with the worm and roller assembly that does wear but it would be unusual to have a singular failure resulting in 6" slack.......... there are tapered roller bearings above and below the worm/roller assembly then a dog boned shape pitman arm with a pair of tierod ends and another tierod end on end end of the tie rod, a total of 4 tierod ends, they tend to wear progressively although I suppose if they get to the point of extreme wear they would exhibit a large amount of slack tho' its hard to see how it could become evident overnight or suddenly, unless they came apart then you'd have no steering.............I'd be checking the steering box adjustment carefully also a good look at the tierod ends and replacing them if needed...............another thing thats rarely mentioned is the rubber steering box Isolators that fit between the steering box and chassis and on the outside of the chassis as well..........they tend to slowly disintergrate over time due to oil etc softening them and allow the steering box to move when they are worn......replacing them does go some way to getting rid of a "wandering" feeling in the steering but they again are not something that just "breaks" so I'd be doubtful if they were the culprit................we are all curious..............regards from Oz..........andyd
    1 point
  14. Here is a link. Use a rheostat switch for variable speed.https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical-16777/motors---actuators-25143/blower-motor-12457/0da7cd2eedaa?q=Blower+Motor&prodAttr_19769=No
    1 point
  15. If you can find a new steering box then go for it..............my 1st question is why did it suddenly go loose..........have you checked all the connections, ie, tie rods, steering arms, etc.........visually check that the steering box works, ie, there is no movement of the actual box that shouldn't be there when you turn the wheel.....have you tried adjusting the slack out of the box?................I've never heard of the worm breaking.........wearing yes, but not breaking............more info needed.............andyd
    1 point
  16. Wow how bout this MōPār model 65 TRUCK MASTER heater? What a nice unit. I wonder if I can’t just get a 12v potentiometer to put before it and run this 6v fan motor? I remember the motor was good when I made the truck 12v but I tried one of those resistors on it off ebay and it just ran way too slow and I didn’t bother messing with it again. The design is so tight and nice- instead of just a hamster wheel like a modern heater it has a regular fan that blows out the front and a centrifugal style behind that to run the defroster vents or open the door and shoot hot air at the passenger. This thing is really neat. Now that I cleaned three pounds of mud wasp homes out of it I will test it, wire it up and get it ready to re-install. It definitely needs disassembly, some blasting and paint. I kinda want to leave it as-is but it will start to really rot if I don’t clean and protect it. Sure wish the paint on the inside of the front was how the whole thing still looked!
    1 point
  17. It's either number of posts or number of threads started. Just a simple counter.
    1 point
  18. To make the change , select "Member Title"
    1 point
  19. Typically that is from brake fluid contamination on the shoes.
    1 point
  20. LOL, I looked at that photo about 4 times before I finally saw it...... camouflaged very well glad it is received in the way it was intended, not slamming or knocking anyone's fixes.... they just make me laugh
    1 point
  21. fresh perked coffee and bacon frying...take me home, country roads...
    1 point
  22. DJ, if the Suburban is not sold by then, I will bring it.
    1 point
  23. Paul are you taking the truck and not the "new" Suburban?? Where is your adventurous spirit?? Just make sure your tow card is active! ? DJ
    1 point
  24. Just finished the "art work" for my ride down there ?
    1 point
  25. Conn, as Tim says it should only go on one way as the splines have a large locating spline that must be lined up on both the pitman shaft and pitman arm....also some setups do not have a castellated nut and cotter pin, rather they have a standard type of hex nut and a spring washer.......I've seen both types over the years................andyd
    1 point
  26. Make sure all orifices are plugged up before starting it, ....save your self a complete clutch flywheel teardown. And a huge oil spill.
    1 point
  27. Full steering lock to lock, original plymouth pitman arm and tie rod arrangement, and bolted through original holes for original box . Note: I did not use rubber insulators. New steering box is bolted to adapter. Adapter has threaded holes for bolts through frame . I haven’t road tested it but am confident it will work as it should. Also the new steering box isn’t quite as tall so I had to use 2 joints in the steering shaft to avoid altering column angle from dash mount to floor exit. By the way I wonder what OP uglysteve come up with. Lol
    1 point
  28. This is an old thread that Mikey posted this on In reality going SBC is really not so cheap in it's totality. Buying an engine and trans, this could be cheap if used out of a junk yard or whatever. Then the install. New engine trans mounts, cross members etc. New rad or adding a trans cooler for automatic trans. New trans shifter. Gas pedal and kick down linkage. Headers or appropriate exhaust and complete exhaust system. Belts, hoses and misc wiring etc. New driveshaft and possibly diff. Ebrakes if not going to a donor diff . Diff install and changes. Brake system upgrades. And any other hidden and unexpected items that arise. Not a huge deal for the experienced fabber and welder. Stock engine build might bot be hugely cheaper. But us hugely easier and simpler even if going to a longer 250 engine. You guys do the math....lol
    1 point
  29. Do not mix up valves and tappets. If you aren't replacing them, put them back in the same location they came out of.
    1 point
  30. I just realized you don't have a semi tractor and matching trailer
    1 point
  31. RE: breaking the top ring land or breaking pistons. This is fairly common on old Chrysler flatheads that have a lot of miles on them. They develop a ridge above the top ring from wear. If the rod bearing and wrist pin also wear, eventually this allows the top ring to hit against the ridge especially if you rev the motor higher than it is used to. At least, this is my theory of what breaks pistons. I suspect if you use modern low tension rings the ridge will not develop, and if you use synthetic oil wear will be kept to a minimum and this will not happen.
    1 point
  32. I heard on talk radio a while back a phobia called FOMO. which stands for Fear Of Missing Out. Maybe that’s why you can’t sleep.
    0 points
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