Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2019 in all areas

  1. Running Boards: Epoxy primer (high resin, very tough, Urethane primers are softer, great for shaping body panels) Single stage color (tougher than 2 stage) Hardener (additive, help resists impact failures) Same thing I do for Door Jams/Frame and Rims. Body panels and interiors panels I use 2 Stage (base coat/clear coat) Epoxy primers are used as sealers mostly. They are high in resin (tough) and usually are the first coat over bare steel. Hard to shape and hard to sand smoothly Etching primers are different. Mostly used if you can't clean or sand the surface very well (tough spots to reach) the acid in it will "sand" and seal the surface with a thin primer coating Urethane primers (surfacer) are soft in nature and can be sanded easily ie "shape" a panel. A few coats are used so you can sand out surface imperfections. Epoxy isn't easily sanded and is used to seal the final "shaped" Urethane primer just before the color goes on. Its important to note that a lot of paint companies have spent a fair amount of time developing hybrid primers that act as both a sealer and a shaping primer. I still prefer the two to be separate, but I do like DTM 2004.....its a hybrid that has epoxy and acrylic polymers. This is of course just tip of the ice berg....a general over view. Each paint company has its own mixing approach, additives etc., but these are just some of the basic ideas. Your running boards may have only been painted as you would a body panel. No bueno. 48D
    3 points
  2. Thanks to Robin (UK) I just came across an interesting, practical and very reasonable priced bluetooth set-up. https://www.hotrodradios.co.uk/hrrb1 Just thought I should share that. Thom
    2 points
  3. Everyone loves those "catch phrases". They drive me nuts... And why do we need to have names for winter storms now???? I was out driving around through a little snow storm on Monday. Most people were freaking out and hunkering down because "Winter Storm Beth" was sweeping through the state. We got around 8-10" throughout the day and I put on over 500 miles to go visit a customer up north. I didn't think much about it. It's winter in Wisconsin...
    2 points
  4. Vintage power wagons sells them for $10. The part number is FPBOP. You'll have to make your own gasket.
    2 points
  5. In the Navair....Naval Aviation we called it walkway compound and it was the precurser to commercial bed liner Look at the black strip on the wing near the fuselage, fuel probe, and the tail fins of the drop tank, it is basically a real gritty bed liner....so much of it got stolen by sailors in the late 70s and early 80s to protect pickup beds it spawned a niche in the aftermarket for trucks....lol. Slang word for it was non skid, we thinned it with MEK or Naptha Alphatic......nasty stuff along with the Imron we were spraying, suprised I can still breathe with all those ISOs in the air.
    2 points
  6. My son's friend just bought a brand new 2019 Chevy 1/2 ton. My son got in and was promptly berated by his friend for stepping on the door sill. The next time he picked my son up, there was green painter's tape covering the rubber door sill.
    2 points
  7. So I CHOOSE to live in a state that this can happen...hasn't really affected me beyond putting more clothes on...must be "toxic masculinity" that drives me to go out in this type of weather. So some interesting pics from the last few days below: Yesterday's morning pic of the shop thermometer: when I got home from work our front door has started to cryostrip: I like how it picks a spot (seems to be a small rust spot) and spirals out from that. this morning's reading in the shop: Oddly the shop in floor heat is set to 60°F....it's pretty much running all the time over night at this point. God, I love this state! And Saturday it's gonna be 40° ABOVE zero...73° temp swing in 2 days!
    1 point
  8. Oh you’re an Aussie too.... yeah we’re on the right side mate ??
    1 point
  9. I made the console out of poster board and blue tape then flattened it out into the fewest pieces possible which ended up being three- two little guys and one big crazy shape. I don’t have a brake so I bent it by hand and with a body hammer over a plate clamped to my table. It actually fit pretty well and only needed minor trimming before marking and cleaning the metal all up and welding it in. I have been lamenting my failure to tap the shifter mounting plate holes when I originally made it, thinking that I would need a helper underneath to install the shifter with nuts & bolts or maybe I could weld nuts under it all uncomfortable and out of position which makes for bad welds. Duh! There is no reason the shifter needs to be flat on that plate! It just has to bolt down solid and flat to the mounting surfaces. I am going to cut out rectangular lugs from heavy plate, drill and tap those 1/4”-20, and have a nice amount of metal to weld that’s away from the threads and sticking out from under the shifter body where I can see them to tack them in. Then after they thread through the lugs the bolts can stick down through the generous holes drilled in the existing plate. Anyway, the console is done and I can continue fabricating sheetmetal up to the firewall the next good day I get. It was 7° this morning but I had to go do to work till around 1:00 so by the time I got in the driveway it was a comfortable 10° with a balmy high of 14°. A 60° garage is sounding pretty nice right now but the world really disappears when you’re welding so it wasn’t too bad
    1 point
  10. I had been looking for this last year but did not see it...looks like it comes with a gasket now
    1 point
  11. years ago when Ply-Do was in business, they marketed a bolt on disc brake set up featuring this rotor as part of their kit....
    1 point
  12. Polar vortex, huh? When I was a kid they called this "winter". The all-time record low in Kansas City was -23 on December 22 and 23, 1989. It got to -4 yesterday and it is 6 above now. I guess it is warming up. For the curious the coldest temperature recorded in the contiguous U.S. is 70 degrees below zero, measured at Rogers Pass, Montana, on Jan. 20, 1954. Of course that was before global warming.
    1 point
  13. Jan 30: I did today. -17F. It started and ran great. Heater worked great too.
    1 point
  14. The one on the fuel pump is more of a sediment bowl with a screen to collect the bigger pieces. The filter at the carburetor would collect the finer debris to protect the metering jets inside the carb.
    1 point
  15. Running boards are one of those parts that are hard to avoid using and about twice as hard to keep looking nice. I'd just use them and try not to worry about it. Its part of what makes a truck a truck. The good thing is , if it gets to the point where it really.... really bugs you, running boards are easy panels to remove. You can always take them off and give them a good going over and a fresh coat of paint.Put em back on and in no time your good to go. John
    1 point
  16. January 30: -17F; 1:30pm. Was having some minor problems with my EcoDiesel in this cold (-28F this morning), although I made it to work and back. So I decided to see how the Meadowbrook would do. I had not started the car for 10 days. I did not expect the battery to be able to turn the engine over fast enough to start it, but it did! After about 15 total seconds of cranking (in 3 separate spurts), she fired right up. I let it warm up and then turned the heater on. Then I drove into town to top off the gas tank and put a bottle of Heet in. ZERO PROBLEMS. If it starts tomorrow morning I will be taking it to work. It's going to be minus 33 degrees Fahrenheit. So much for modern technology. I trust that old flat head more than anything else I have. Nuff said. Pic: warming up in the driveway.
    1 point
  17. I use mine daily.......and I almost always step on the running board. It is what they are for. Stop fretting over normal wear and tear and use your trucks like they were meant to be used. (You car show guys just crack me up) I sprayed mine with a black bedliner product to help reduce slipping. Guess what it works....and I bet if it were around back then Dodge would have used it on our "Job Rated" trucks. These are Trucks...not cream puffs. Jeff
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. tell mother nature to take a hike and in total defiance, go out and lick a flag pole to show her who is boss...…. At 8 AM this morning I looked out to 26 degrees, for the south that is a bit on the cold side, no wind so it is not real miserable.....was out in T-shirt for a bit cleaning and filling the bird feeder...them little freeloaders are OK in my book....like to watch them. Going to finish this cup of coffee and go out and check my firebox and put a bit of wood in there I guess.
    1 point
  20. Are you trying this with or without the rear main seal installed? Rope seals can put a lot of drag on a crank and the closer to the seal you get the more likely to get that drag and maybe a lockup. If you have them in, take them out and try again. Check the backside of all the bearing shells. They should all have the same thousandths markings. Those notches in the block and main caps were put there by the factory. There're used to keep the bearing shell from rotating and caps, when installed will have that notch on the same side of the block as the one in the block.
    1 point
  21. Todd, I was not offering these for sale in any way shape or form, Paul simply was asking for pictures of the parts for reference and I was just trying to show him what the removable panel on the passenger side looked like. I do apologize if my post was confusing or if I had misunderstood what his request was. Just trying to help with sharing information that's all
    1 point
  22. Just finished the "art work" for my ride down there ?
    1 point
  23. Waaait a minute there...that's not a link to a Barracuda!!!!
    1 point
  24. Should be 4.5" on 5 using 1/2" UNF threads..........same as 49 up Frods, well Frod copied Mopar...........andyd
    1 point
  25. I try to drive my 50 Meadowbrook about once a week....all original and just turned over 80,000. Its particularly fun in the fall and winter....our winters are dry and mild in Oklahoma so I get in lots more miles than I do during the hot months. What is it in that interior that makes it smell so darn good (to me at least)? Fortunately it had been kept inside so my work on it has all been maintenance (fuel pump, carb, brakes, hoses, water pump). She likes to go 50, so thats what we do on our trips out.
    1 point
  26. On the road last month during the hot rod power tour 2500 miles
    1 point
  27. Ok,this one used to be my semi-daily driver until it backfired and caught fire under the hood. Luckily for me I make it a practice to carry a fire extinguisher with me,and while the fire melted the AFB carb and burned all the wires under the hood,the car didn't burn. The car was a slopped together piece of crap when I bought it,and the engine fire was the straw that broke my back on it. It has a Camaro frame clip,tired 305,and junk Turbo 250 trans that didn't start slipping until after I got it home. The frame clip was done right,but basically just tacked together. Had to put finish weld it and add a couple of re-inforcement plates. Plus the engine only had one motor mount bolted to the clip,and the trans was just sitting on two "L" shaped brackets tacked to the chassis. When I went to see why the speedo didn't work,I discovered it had never been installed in the transmission. The trans was "kept from leaking" by tan tape like painted use on chrome that was wrapped around the tailshaft several times. So I had to drill holes and bolt the tailshaft to the trans mount. Once I plugged the speedo cable in,the trans quit leaking,but it was too late. The patient was dying The wiring "harness" had red and black wires,and if there were any fuses in it,I didn't find them. I was hoping to get by while I gathered the parts for a rebuild,but no such luck. The fire was the last straw. I decided I wasn't going to touch it again until I have everthing in my possession I needed to put it back together to suit me,done right and trouble-free. The two photos are how the car looked when I bought it. It's going to have the same color paint and style when I put it back on the road. The tired 305 and junk Turbo 350 are getting replaced with a blueprinted 412 small block assembled by a NASCAR speed shop that has Keith Black flat top 10 to 1 pistons,gapless rings,hot cam,roller rockers,and 202 stainless valves in ported cast iron hi-po GM heads,and roller rockers. Also has 350 Chevy rods for a little more torque. Has a Holley 750 on it now with a medium rise Weiand intake. Also has a Pete Jackson gear drive. The trans is a modified Turbo 400 with a 2,000 stall torque converter and manual shift valve body. I used to have this combo in my 1-ton extended GM window van that I used to pull trailers,and it would almost scare me in that rig when I punched it,so it should do fine in the little P-15. I had it built to put in a 39 Ford,but the engine in my old van took a dump,so that's where it went. The third photo is of a digital instrument cluster make to fit inside the stock P-15 instrument housing. I had it custom built to my specifications I also have a new Ron Francis wiring harness for it,and all the chrome has now been done and is wrapped in paper. AFAIK,I think I now have everything I need to blow it apart and start on the body work,paint,wiring,etc,etc,etc. Everything but the time,that is. Had a local scrapper come by right after the fire when it still looked as good as it does in the photos,and the license plates were even still good,and he offered to haul it off to the crusher for me,"And I won't even charge you anything!" I rejected his kind offer. This one is a keeper that won't get sold as long as I am able to drive.
    1 point
  28. Parts offered must be via PM or in the classifieds.
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use