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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/30/2019 in all areas

  1. I use mine daily.......and I almost always step on the running board. It is what they are for. Stop fretting over normal wear and tear and use your trucks like they were meant to be used. (You car show guys just crack me up) I sprayed mine with a black bedliner product to help reduce slipping. Guess what it works....and I bet if it were around back then Dodge would have used it on our "Job Rated" trucks. These are Trucks...not cream puffs. Jeff
    4 points
  2. I had no clue...just posting a scare to Frankie......as it is a facebook page and as I never do facebook, who knows what when or where I guess....
    1 point
  3. My son's friend just bought a brand new 2019 Chevy 1/2 ton. My son got in and was promptly berated by his friend for stepping on the door sill. The next time he picked my son up, there was green painter's tape covering the rubber door sill.
    1 point
  4. ....my Challenger sits outside, too. Just the old stuff gets to be inside.
    1 point
  5. I promise to never again complain that it takes two hours for my garage to warm up to 60 degrees........
    1 point
  6. Sounds like a good friend to have. ? Watch out for those brutal temperatures. Stay warm, if you can. ?
    1 point
  7. Thanks! I meant to get some while I was at the welding supply but I forgot so I got some rustoleum cold galvanize at lowes while I was getting more spraypaint. It’s not the $20/can stuff and definitely not the good copper based stuff. I found it coated really nicely but came off exactly like the stuff on scratch off lotto tickets- a fingernail or coin takes it right off. It also is zinc so I didn’t want to burn and breathe any of it if possible even though I was welding outside. I did try striking an arc thru some of it and it worked OK but not half as good as clean steel. So I ended up using it only around the welds and where is would be sandwiched between the layers of steel. I cleaned most of it off through the holes becore welding. I would use it again for the backs of things like maybe a wheelwell patch on a more modern car that has inner fenders- spots that will be inaccessible for the purpose of painting but murphys law says water will get in. It just doesn’t have the strength to use where it could get scratched off by road debris.
    1 point
  8. I've copied this from Bob's Facebook page. It was written by his son. Bob and his '40 Plymouth the Wayback Machine have been posting on here in the past. Keep him in your thoughts. Hi guys, Dad has been hacked. It's Josh. I have no idea what to say or how to say it. My hero is losing his battle with cancer. He is very weak and is in Hospice care at my home. the started his morphine pain management meds today. he is taking very little in the way of food or water. What little he gets is when he is asked. I would like to personally thank everyone of dad's great friends and family for all of the love and support you all have given him with this journey. I will do my best to post what I can when I can. I just don't know what to type as the tears flow from my eyes, to see the one of the strongest men in my life fight so hard and be this weak is very heartbreaking. I love you all as does dad. Thank you all so much.
    1 point
  9. So far new exhaust, tune up,radiator,electrical,and some minor improvements. I love the car and don’t think I would ever sell it. My plan is to clean it nicely and keep it all original. I only want to fix as needed. I shocked to see you know Shane as well as the previous owner. If possible I would love to be in contact with the owner before Shane to learn about the cars history, I’m sure it made a lot of people happy over the years. Let me know. Thanks.
    1 point
  10. The machine shop should take the new main and rod bearings.... fit them into the block and big end of the rods... Bolt up and torque the main bolts/rod nuts... Then measure and check the new bearing bore diameters for accuracy and actual diameter.....then the machinist can grind the crank to the new bearing sizes for specified clearance. Never trust what the box the bearings came in says as for size...... Once the crank is is finished again more measuring....
    1 point
  11. It is indeed possible (actually quite likely) that one of those companies made the parts for Chrysler. I think I was told once that the OEM bearings were Clevite 77. I suppose that's beside my point. My main point is to find out out whether anyone knows what improvements, if any, have been made to the parts we would purchase new nowadays over the NOS parts that were made 60 years ago (or more), or if sitting on a shelf could somehow degrade them (I doubt it, but this is a forum for asking questions). I know for a fact that bearings in general have improved substantially, but the question is....have those types of improvements been incorporated into the new bearings we can purchase today for these engines that were built decades ago, or are they still being made using similar technology to what was used back then, or at least a modern equivalent because it might be cheaper than using newer technologies and that's all that is required for the application, or maybe even because it's somehow more compatible to the application. Kind of an open-ended question, I realize, but someone may know the answers....or someone may not. Perhaps someone will even chime in and say they bought NOS bearings 15 years ago, with packaging from 1948, and they have put 50,000 miles on the car with no trouble since then. These are some the types of answers that might prove most useful, but I'm looking for any input. It could be that no one will chime in with that type of info, but....I figure I will never get the answer if I don't ask. Do I expect to get a broad spectrum of answers that vary as much as the people who provide the answers? Yeah, probably so, but that's ok. I still want to hear them.
    1 point
  12. Nope, just an oil catcher integrated into the rear main cap
    1 point
  13. Windshield has to be laminated glass. Gently remove any piece covering a joint in the trim at the center or corners and then remove the longer strips. There is a channel in the rubber that holds the stainless in place. The cord you use should be about 1/4" and make sure and file off any snags on the pinch weld that will damage the new gasket.
    1 point
  14. I noticed something odd working on TODD's doors this weekend. Something I don't know if anyone has ever pointed out before: the metal thickness of the top hinge mount (cab side) metal is different & hinge on the door is a different length. I have several doors of both vintages and it seems to be consistent. The B3/4 door hinge mount (cab side) is thicker metal & hinge is shorter than on the B1/2. I was trying to put a B3/4 mount on a B1/2 door and it physically won't fit. There is about a 1/16" difference. I ALSO found a B1/2 top hinge that doesn't have the embossment on it that I have on EVERY other one I have, the part that slides in the slot on the jamb is dead flat. Anyone else ever seen that?
    1 point
  15. additional information - Door Hinge Information
    1 point
  16. go with LED's a lot cheaper than repairing a vehicle that has been rear ended. I have them on both my trucks
    1 point
  17. The sides and front of the seat riser are welded in. The upper panel for the back is cut and mostly fit but I ran out of time and had to go open my shop. Supposed to be terrible weather this week... I also got started making a template for the passenger toe board.
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. I painted portions of my Power Wagon's running boards with stuff called Wing Walk. It is used on planes, on those areas where pilots and maintainers have to walk. I masked off the areas where I didn't want it and brushed it onto the unmasked areas, and it has really held up well. I probably scuffed the underlying paint before applying it, but I dont recall for sure now. I did that in 1993 or 94 and it still looks good. It has a grittiness to it, so you won't slip, and I think it looks good as an accent to the surrounding paint, but if complete originality is what you are looking for, then it won't fit the bill.
    1 point
  20. The "frame" might already be separating from the body on its own!
    1 point
  21. I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again. I painted this on canvas in 2017. My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed. At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck. ? When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. ? Hope you guys like it!
    1 point
  22. really if you want stock your options are (in my mind): don't step on it step VERY VERY carefully on it with care to not twist and such with CLEAN footwear use a towel (have to pick and place each time a challenge in itself and potentially a fall hazard with it slipping) use it and repaint periodically use it and don't care You are lucky your truck isn't a one ton, FEF rides taller and it's a stretch to climb in and NOT use the RB...at some point in life I won't be limber enough to do so and will be FORCED to use the RB. TODD I plan on non stock SS running boards that I can step on and polish as needed.
    1 point
  23. With a heavy heart our good friend Bob lost his fight with cancer in the evening of Halloween, just 5 month, 156 days after loosing his bride Patty, by him moving to Fletcher OK with Josh and his family solved the fear of what would happen to his co-pilot Cooper, which I know gave him much stress while in Neversink. Rest easy my friend, miss you loads. God Bless You.
    0 points
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