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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2019 in all areas

  1. General Motors has a lot of backwards compatible parts, so swapping engines, transmissions, even complete truck beds isn't that difficult...but Dodge, not so much...even swapping from a 23" flathead to a 25" flathead requires paying attention to starter/flywheel combos, crankshaft/flywheel combos, etc., and those styles of engines have A LOT in common. When flatheads were succeeded by the slant 6 and V8s, the transmissions changed as well, as bell housings and input shafts changed significantly. The absolute easiest engine swap is to take out a non-running engine and replace it with a similar running donor engine, which takes a certain amount of skill in itself...anything beyond that will require fabrication skills and lots of patience, among other resources...
    3 points
  2. Driver side bracket and lower/outer arm are original to '48 BID. Passenger side bracket was on truck at purchase. Two sets of brackets and arms came in an open box. Part number matches. Lower/outer and upper/inner arms are same length as original Set screw/nut and pinch ring are the same. Tapered bottom end and brackets are different. No date on box to know when changes were made.
    3 points
  3. While I'm waiting for some brakeline and fuel parts to arrive, I had time to try the temperature gauge fix. It went rather well. I found some scrap copper line in my parts drawer to make the patch. Dunked the temp probe in some ice water with salt and left it in there for a good 20 mins. I grafted the new sensor to the old gauge without any issues. Then it was time to test it, so I boiled the kettle and dunked the sensor bulb into the boiling water. Now the gauge works just fine and once it gets out of the normal area on the gauge I'll know the water is getting very, very hot. After that success I moved onto cleaning up the whole gauge cluster and fixed the fuel gauge (a wire had come unsoldered, so i sorted that as well). Slowly hand painting the faces of the gauges, they aren't perfect, but my eye and hand coordination isn't as good as it used to be. So all the gauges are working now (totally happy about that), I'll have to delve into the speedo, cos that's still stuck fast).
    3 points
  4. On the 1950 Plymouth the wiper knob is a press fit on the shaft of the switch with a slot in the top of the shaft for a spring to slip into. The Newport switch had the correct diameter shaft but it was too long and not slotted. Supporting the shaft in a vise I cut it to length and then cut a slot in the shaft with a fine blade hacksaw. I then used a jewelers file to finish the slot to the same size as the original switch. It took maybe 10 minutes and the stock knob just pressed onto the shaft of the new switch.
    2 points
  5. WD 40 to lube the rings and pistons? I'll stick with a small amount of engine oil to lube the rings and pistons. He uses oil on the rod bearings....OK I guess but assembly lube for journals stays there if the new engine sits and protects the journals for break in. He shows nothing about the rear main rope seal kneading/checking rolling to fit etc. The pistons are already installed...so now he can't show seal to crank drag. That should be done right after checking the crankshaft clearance and for free rotation. Shouldn't be too much drag. He should show checking how much crank drag there is because of the rope seal installation. A lot of people fail on this part of rebuilds. I don't mean to beat him down just a couple important things.
    2 points
  6. I used Diamondback Tires https://dbtires.com/ for my '37 Chevy coupe project. They are not cheap but are made from new name brand modern tires as opposed to some that use old name brand molds. All are radials but they have some that look like bias ply. They recommend Simple Green for their whitewalls and specifically warn against products containing bleach.
    2 points
  7. Been TOO long since I worked on TODD. Right now in between wood projects so time to grind down some early welds and redo so I'm not embarrassed by them! And cut out all the cross bracing as it's no longer needed and I can now climb around inside w/o being a contortionist!
    2 points
  8. I think the answer depends on the time lapse between installing a primed pump and first use. a few hours, maybe not, a few years, probably. In my case, I've always filled pumps with Vaseline before installation. I used to work on a lot of the little 215 V8 Buicks. Their pump is in the front cover and a long way from the pickup. The manual recommendation was to pack with Vaseline. Seemed like a good idea, so I adopted it for all. In addition, back in the same time period 60s-early 70s I built a lot of engines for my Dad's business. They would sit in inventory for weeks, and be installed by the customer. The packed pump was good insurance against startup damage.
    2 points
  9. thanks Wally, here is a closer look
    2 points
  10. Picked up this 1.5 ton yesterday near the Seattle area for $1.00 (one USA dollar) I named him “Buck” LOL “Swung” by and played “what the heck?” with Dodgeb4ya (what a blast!) This truck is SUCH a rust bucket!.....,. “challenge accepted”. I don’t know who I feel sorry for more, my neighbors or Julie….
    1 point
  11. You are just delaying the inevitable while wasting time and money. There is no way in hell the inside of that old tank is still coated,and when you start driving it the ethanol will start coating the inside with rust. Even before it rusts out flakes of rust will be clogging your fuel filter or causing you to rebuild your carb. Save time and labor you can use on other things and just go ahead and buy a Tank,Inc brand new coated gas tank for around 230 bucks,and replace the hard gas lines with the same copper-nickel lines you used for the brakes,replace all the rubber lines with new rubber gas lines designed to stand up to ethanol,and rebuild or buy a rebuild fuel pump rated to work with ethanol. You will be sorry if you don't. A couple of rollback rides back home could easily cover the expenses.
    1 point
  12. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html/ http://p15-d24.com/classifieds/
    1 point
  13. Yeah it does. Odd and even rods are different. Thanks for the video!
    1 point
  14. Restore? Or, hot-rod? Restore says all original to me. As for swapping, IMHO, the simple answer would be none. Nothing easy about swapping a v8, of any brand, into a 52 truck. Yes there is enough space if properly positioned but that is just the start of a very long process. You will also need a newer rear axle, a complete change to 12 volts, a new (er) radiator, and the list goes on.......... Read through this thread for some insite:
    1 point
  15. Well, my take on that is this: If you want to restore the truck then you either replace the original with a like rebuilt, or rebuild the old one. If the intent is to update to a more modern drive train, rather than restore, there isn't a really easy way out. Any later v8 will require lots of fabrication. Sixes are really no better. I really hate to say this, but for ease of install, ready availability of cheaper (not cheap, just 'er') it's hard to beat a small block Chevy with automatic. No clutch linkage to deal with, simpler shift linkage, cheap engine parts etc. I'm just freshening my 230 and adding an A833. But even that requires a clutch housing change. And that housing change will cost many times what a SBC housing would.
    1 point
  16. Well, question number A what do you want out of the truck and why you want to swap? Not really such a thing as an easy swap, everything requires some level of work
    1 point
  17. I used Coker and love them, but I've seen other members swear by the other companies out there too. Be sure to follow the directions for whitewall care, as normal cleaners can yellow and ruin them.
    1 point
  18. Now did I miss it, or did he forget to mention the oiling holes in the rods? Or does a 201 have rod specific direction for oiling?
    1 point
  19. Here are two options. You may try pulling the old one to determine the correct filter for your canister.
    1 point
  20. Back in the early 80’s my dad told me to go get a temp gauge from our local salvage yard. I had a hard time getting them through the firewall so I just bent it a few times until it broke in two. I noticed the alcohol smell but didn’t know any better. So just to make sure I had a good one I grabbed two. Took them home and my dad wanted to slab me. Overall my dad was proud of me, but not that day.
    1 point
  21. Generally only out front on Saturdays. Definately have some understanding neighbors. Most of them are curious and stop in to see how things are progressing.
    1 point
  22. I think I’m actually done messing with it now. It’s so cold out I don’t think I’m getting the brakes bled or welding in the cab today. Lately I’ve been thinking about those radio holes in the dash. I actually bought one of those 2 pod finned cast aluminum inserts from mooneyes but it kinda clashed and the gauges really looked best in the passenger dash area. I really like the original red paint on the dash. What a shame that it’s got 1970s metallic green overspray mixed with 2000s krylon olive drab and black on the A pillars and green doors.
    1 point
  23. Now would also be a good time to replace old steel freeze plugs with brass ones. MUCH easier when the engine is out.
    1 point
  24. My Oz 1940 Dodge has had seatbelts since the mid 70's, retractable lap/sash(3 point) on each front seat and non retractable on each side in the rear seat and a lap belt in the middle of the rear seat.....all work well and more than comply with the Oz regulations........I made up a similar metal bar to that shown on your pic and dropped it down on a piece of string thru an opening at the top of the door pillar then used the large seat belt bolt to pull the bar hard against the inside of the pillar, once held tight I drilled thru both inner pillar and the metal bar and installed 3/16th pop rivets purely to hold the bar hard against the inner pillar and was then able to undo the seatbelt bolt, drill a hole in the pillar upholstered panel and then bolt everything back together..........the attached pic is an old one but it shows part of the lower bracket on the Oz passenger side and you can see the seat belt on the Oz drivers side............dunno if this helps, but that Julianos kit looks like a new version of what i did........lol........regards from Oz...........Andy Douglas
    1 point
  25. Thanks CO54! So while I had a bunch of clamps on the base plate it fell and cracked my wood grip! Sometimes that’s how it goes. I made another ipe grip, sewed up a vinyl boot, and made a new base plate and a trim ring. The vinyl is glued to the trim ring but I gotta repaint the ring- I wiped off some of the paint when I cleaned off some errant spray adhesive. The wood got pushed on over the metal (snug fit) with some epoxy, the button was screwed on, then the wood got pushed forward a little to capture the button before the epoxy set. In any case I’m happy to have this part kinda wrapped up. I might shape the handle a little more once the epoxy is 100%. I’m not in love with the bulge in the front and considering doing the finger grooves again. I should be able to keep moving on the floor console and firewall again soon.
    1 point
  26. Current picture from Washington.... Very cloudy here but enough clearing to just catch it...
    1 point
  27. Builds Post revised and updated with build cards, battery tray information, and carburetor float pin retainer replacement
    1 point
  28. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/
    1 point
  29. You need the proper drum/hub puller to get the drums off. They are on a tapered shaft and will be tight.
    1 point
  30. i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.
    1 point
  31. I agree wholeheartily, when using original parts, original installation specs should be the first choice. My only point is this: If not using original parts or an exact duplicate thereof, the installation specs may need to be changed to accomadate the new material. And, I'm unaware of any original parts being available in 2018. As an example, if one were to replace the pistons in a flattie with a modern 3 ring, design with moly or chome chrome rings using a 3 or 4 pc oil ring, I'm sure you would agree that clearances and end gap should be those that match the parts being used. Kind of an extreme example for sure, but just illustrates the difficulty of adapting processes and procedures to match newer parts on older machines. Not intended to be argumentative, just explanatory.
    1 point
  32. I quit watching after 7 minutes when he said you have to replace the valve seats in the engine with hardened seats so it will run on unleaded fuel..........
    1 point
  33. Push down and turn CCW the center horn button.... it should pop up. Yours does too as long as its the stock wheel and horn ring. There are three "L" tangs that need to be turned CCW...
    1 point
  34. Not having owned a car like yours, am just guessing here.......look or feel on the back side of the horn ring center, around the center of the wheel for any recessed holes that may contain bolts to attach the horn ring from the rear side. If there are no holes/bolts on the back side of the wheel center, then I think there is a method of gently prying out the horn center. Hopefully some true experts will add better info. Do you have a parts or repair manual for your car?
    1 point
  35. Do you have the gyromatic trans? These cars also came with a 3 speed trans with the fluid coupling. With this you need to clutch to shift. You have the option to start in 3rd gear and leave it there. You don’t need to disengage the clutch when you stop. I have a 52 Coronet with the gyromatic and it’s a blast to drive. The Imperial website has a troubleshooting manual available for download along with other information. If I can help just ask.
    1 point
  36. if it is indeed a Gyromatic you will find only 4 positions on the gearshift, Reverse back and upward, low range up , high range down and of course , neutral. To operate, depress clutch and start engine. select either high range low range or reverse. Release clutch. depress accelerator and the car will move, To operate in a forward direction depress clutch and select either high range or low range. Release clutch. Depress accelerator and start moving. at about 20 mph, let off on the gas and the transmission should shift into the higher gear of the range selected. A noticeable clunk will be felt. Re apply power and continue to drive. Only use the clutch when it is necessary to move the gear selector. You may change ranges while moving by depressing the clutch and moving the selector. To avoid the temptation of needlessly using the clutch hook your left foot behind the right one. As Don mentioned above, the glove box manual gives full instructions and tells how to get a "kick down" if needed. You need not be shy or tentative. These transmissions are almost bullet proof and will work very well for you, unless you are competing in drag racing. ( even back in the day, it was said that the Gyromatic could outperform a Powerflite in a race but we may be talking about tortoise and hare situations. My technique for get up and go was..... select low range (up) release clutch floor the accelerator and wind the engine up tight. quickly depress the clutch and pull the selector down so fast that the internal shift cannot occur. depress the accelerator hard down again and when maximum (prudent) speed is attained, release the accelerator and allow the internal shift to put you in high gear. Keep driving all day. ( This technique comes with 4 pages of disclaimers and may not be for the faint of heart. Parental guidance is recommended.)
    1 point
  37. I believe your car (and congratulations on getting it running) has what is known as fluid drive. Fluid drive is not a transmission and not a clutch but it is a hydraulic coupling between the engine and transmission. Yes with the fluid drive you can come to a complete stop while in gear with the clutch pedal not engaged and the engine will continue to run. It is possible to leave the transmission in top gear and accelerate from a dead stop although it will not win any drag races when you do this. If you do not have an owners manual for your car I suggest you get one as it will explain how and when to shift gears. Post a photo of your car when you can.
    1 point
  38. Curious as to whether or not you intend to keep the patina? I like the look of it as it is. ?
    1 point
  39. I hope you have better luck with old gas tanks than me. My positive results are zero. On the dual outlet master cylinders,one outlet goes to the front brakes and one goes to the rear,
    1 point
  40. Different thoughts on master cylinders. If it were me,I would buy a rebuilt one from White Post Restorations that has a stainless steel sleeve installed in it ,or just buy a kit to put a dual-outlet master cylinder on it,and leaning hard on the dual outlet master cylinder. I wouldn't go for the power brake option,though. If I were putting new brakes on a drive car from scratch,I wouldn't even consider a single outlet master cylinder. I can see them for a restored show car,but not for a driver car. Don't even think of rebuilding the wheel cylinders. You can search around by partnumber and buy then new cheaper than you can buy a rebuild kit. I was being quoted a price right at 100 bucks each for wheel cylinder for my 39 IHC PU,and I did a web search for the parts numbers and bought brand new US made wheel cylinders from Amazon for $4.50 each. Come to find out the 53-54 Corvettes used the same wheel cylinders,as did other more common cars. BTW,go ahead and replace the brake lines,too. No matter how good they look on the outside,they are steel,and there is no telling how much rust there is on the inside. Use the new copper-nickel brake lines and never have to worry about rust in or out again. Replace all the rubber hoses,too. Then plan on fitting a new reproduction gas tank (plastic or galvanized) into your budget,and use copper-steel brake lines for gas lines,too. I have a couple of tanks from Tanks,Inc in different cars,and have nothing but good things to say about them. The price is even good. The last tank I pulled off maybe a year ago looked good until I pulled it off. VERY little rust on the bottom. The top had a hole I could stick my fist through,though.
    1 point
  41. Torched the springs to get the chassis to sit right (bunch of parts missing that would weigh enough to compress the front suspension). And then the cab mounts got put in. Even with the shop at a "cool" 75°, outside hit near 100° yesterday, it wasn't all that comfortable with the humidity so high, then ad the torch and welding heat!
    1 point
  42. going through my stash of parts, I found an NOS battery tray, but looking at the parts book, the part number written on the back of the tray is for the larger trucks. Comparing to the battery trays in the '48 & '49, it appears the subtle difference is in the dimensions of the tray as the big truck tray looks identical to the smaller truck tray. But the parts book does not really say that this tray is used on all B-series 1/2, 3/4 & 1-ton trucks. So I got curious and looked at the '51s next to the house, as well as the B4 Spring Special, and it appears there was a change somewhere along the way that the tray was eliminated in favor of just using the support found in the frame section of the parts book. Judging from the condition of the trays I have, they didn't last too long when exposed to the corrosive effects of leaky batteries & road debris. With the formed lip along the length of the support, and the presence of the hold down bolts, the tray seems to be a belt & suspender approach to containing the battery, and possibly a carryover from the car side of the business.
    1 point
  43. Here's some stuff I've collected over the years that might be of help to you. Wait! I have a positive-ground GMC, what do I do? This so easy, you'll kick yourself for not having figured it out on your own. All you have to do to convert that Jimmy to negative ground is: 1. Disconnect the battery (VERY important first step) 2. Reverse the wires on the coil 3. Reverse the wires on the ammeter 4. Reverse the battery cables. While you're at it, why not switch the ground cable from going to the frame to a starter mounting bolt or the transmission? It's better than the frame. 5. Put all your tools away and sweep the garage floor, because you are DONE. Oh, yeah. Power up the system to see if you did it right. Easy job. By the way, this method works for Fords, too (should you have one laying around). 12 volts, but looks all original Okay, this one is a little harder, but still pretty easy. Even a Marine can do it. This method assumes you have either the original wiring harness, or you have replaced the original harness with a new 6-volt harness. Is your 6-volt harness adequate to convert to 12 volts? Yes, because the 6-volt system produces twice the amperage of the 12-volt system. So, the 6-volt harness is actually heavier than needed for the 12-volt conversion. With that out of the way: • Disconnect and remove the 6-volt battery. If you discard it, make sure you do so properly. Used Lead acid batteries are hazardous waste, so please dispose of them properly -- it's the law. • Remove your 6-volt generator. • Replace with a 12-volt generator. I got mine from a guy hotrodding a '57. It fit perfectly and looks almost identical to the original 6-volt unit. • Remove the 6-volt voltage regulator and replace it with a 12-volt one. Again, you can probably use the one that came with the 12-volt generator you found. • OR, if you want to be anal and maintain strict originality, you can use your 6-volt generator -- just take it to a good electrical shop and have them replace the 6-volt field coils with 12-volt ones. Just don't forget to replace your voltage regulator... • Replace your 6-volt bulbs (headlights, taillights, parking lights, dash lights, dome lights, etc) with 12-volt bulbs. • Put a ballast resistor* in the line between the ignition switch and the coil • Put a voltage reducer* in the power line to each 6-volt accessory switch (radio, heater, etc) • Put a Standard Ignition* in the line to the gas gauge. • Install a 12-volt coil • Install a 12-volt battery that fits your battery tray (duh). • Power up the system and check it out. 12 volts, but with an alternator This one isn't quite so easy. I tried this the first time around and it took a few tries to get it right. At any rate, this approach is pretty widely used and has a lot of advantages, but you lose originality -- you have a big, ugly alternator sticking out like a sore thumb. Yuck. If you can live with that, here's what you do: • Disconnect and remove the 6-volt battery. If you discard it, make sure you do so properly. Used Lead acid batteries are hazardous waste, so please dispose of them properly -- it's the law. • Remove your 6-volt generator, coil and voltage regulator. • Install the alternator. You'll probably have to do some bracket modifications. • Use a DA plug on your alternator (because most modern alternators have built in regulators, this eliminates the voltage regulator on the firewall) • Take the "Batt" wire that used to go to the regulator and connect it to the red wire of the DA plug. • Connect the white wire from the DA plug and connect it to an "ignition" spot, either the ignition switch or the coil wire. • Wrap up the "field" and "arm" wires that used to connect to the regulator because you don't need them anymore. • Replace your 6-volt bulbs (headlights, taillights, parking lights, dash lights, dome lights, etc) with 12-volt bulbs. • Put a ballast resistor* in the line between the ignition switch and the coil • Put a voltage reducer* in the power line to each 6-volt accessory switch (radio, heater, etc)
    1 point
  44. Get a runtz fuel gauge resistor. I bought mine from speedway and it was easy to install and works like a charm. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducer,2374.html
    1 point
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