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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. thanks Wally, here is a closer look
    3 points
  2. Picked up this 1.5 ton yesterday near the Seattle area for $1.00 (one USA dollar) I named him “Buck” LOL “Swung” by and played “what the heck?” with Dodgeb4ya (what a blast!) This truck is SUCH a rust bucket!.....,. “challenge accepted”. I don’t know who I feel sorry for more, my neighbors or Julie….
    2 points
  3. From the previous posts I conclude that small parts of little value have only trade or "good guy" value. Accordingly I'm going to inventory and such store items. Somewhere along the way, it might be a nice throw in item. Maybe those who frequent THE BBQ should bring such items place them on a table. Purchaser makes a contribution to the event.
    2 points
  4. Nice car..........from what I can see of the front number plate I assume you are in NSW?.............I'm in South Grafton.............from being RHD I gather its a TJ Richards body, where are you?.............you know that a non mopar gearbox swap will involve redoing the gearbox mounted rear mounts and connecting the handbrake up to the Frod rear axle, which I also assume has its handbrake stuff still inside the brake drums..........how stock is it apart from the diff and lowering?............I'm a hotrodder so I can live with any mods........lol..........I've had my car since 1971, its V8 since 1973, and have collected a bit of info such as Oz shop manuals etc.........email is scaleautomobilia@hotkey.net.au or phone 02 6642 5963 .........welcome aboard, Andy Douglas
    2 points
  5. I like the cut of your jib mister.....Rich, if I may ask... were you an Eagle Scout perchance ?
    1 point
  6. Thanks for the replies. Like all cars its a work in progress, you always think of doing mods to make it nicer and for me its to keep me busy and enjoy working on the car. That was the main reason I swapped my chev for this one as I had gotten pretty much to the end of the road with the changes on the chev. I have some tinkering on the car to get it a bit more reliable so that I'm not afraid to get in and drive it anywhere I want without having a tow truck number on speed dial Cheers Adam
    1 point
  7. Hey Andy, Car is registered in NSW but I'm in Brissy, hope to change the rego over in the next couple of weeks after I sort out a few bugs. I have just redone the rear drum brakes as it didnt have any of the handbrake hardware inside the drum, now I have to work out getting it working right as I cant get to the small slot in the back of the drum to adjust the brakes because the leaf spring and lowering blocks are in the way. I am still umming and arrghing about the gearbox swap, might just drive it for a while and then see what I want to do. Always good to have plans but lots of time they dont pan out. Cheers, Adam
    1 point
  8. I had a problem near identical to your description with the B1D years ago. It turned out to be the distributor bearing. I sent the distributor to a place in Pennsylvania for a rebuild (I don't remember where ...this was back in the 90's). When I put the freshly rebuilt distributor back in, the problem was gone. The rebuilder described the problem as a "crystallized bearing". I'd never heard of bearings crystallizing before then, but apparently it has something to do with them aging. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  9. i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.
    1 point
  10. Pre sunrise this morning at -11 outside. lol
    1 point
  11. Most of the stuff I've done is lots of measurements then draw in cad. The fuel fill I just cut the hole so the "bulge" fit inside the hole, then I didn't have to worry about the profile. The inside was hidden by the angle piece inside the box, which I profiled with the angle grinder. I don't worry too much about gaps, that's what mig wire is for. (Within reason)
    1 point
  12. Haha, I must be losing my mind. I have an old chopper i built from a honda cb750. Did it years ago, but you got me thinking, it has Harley fat bob tanks on it, with a left hand and right hand caps on the tanks, well to my surprise the threads are the same!! Good advice on making patterns also Thanks!
    1 point
  13. Looks like blanks for plain old house keys. Yale manufactures locks mainly for household, office, and industrial use, on this side of the pond, anyway. They also make big padlocks. Haven't had to look for house key blanks for quite some time, so I couldn't say if those are common or not.
    1 point
  14. The bolts with springs, are they for the gas tank
    1 point
  15. I have a 1939 Ply. Shell Oil Truck W/ 1956 Dodge 270 Poly W/ TH 350 trans. I used a adapter Hot Heads, about $ 400.00
    1 point
  16. I’m going to be spending some time in the Ft. Myers area. I thought it would be simple to see who might be around there who might also be interested in the old Mopars, but it wasn’t that simple. Only a few people show up on that mapping deal - non in that area - and if you search for people in Florida, most just say Florida. at any rate, we’re heading down this week to house hunt. As time goes on, i’ll Probably spend time there when it’s cold up here in Mo, and time up here when it gets hot down there. It it would be nice to find out what is going on in the old car world down there, particularly mopars.
    1 point
  17. Not a very extensive one, made some modifications since then. Eventually gave up on the fuel injection and went back to the carb. Turbo was particularly small, like off a 1.6l Subaru. Boost hit about 1200rpm and carried all the way to the top, but the issue was exhaust backpressure started countering the boost above 2500, kinda like a banana in the tailpipe. That said, for super and turbocharging alike the exhaust is a big problem. Scavenging is deeply improved going to duals (read up on flat vs cross plane cranks for V8s for reference) Cleaning up the ports & combustion Chambers with a mild cam help as well. Basically, build a reliably strong N/A motor inside and out and build from there. Probably should stipulate, If you're expecting V8 power then this is not the solution. It's not going to raise the motors redline, and the boost curve doesn't change the motors natural torque curve, only aids (and sometimes pulls it down) Feel free to pick my brain if you please! I'm by no means a wizard, although I do like pointy hats...
    1 point
  18. Aussie56, You car’s absolutely beautiful!!! I can relate to your issue with your wife and the auto trans. My wife and I both have “physical challenges”. The standard transmission isn’t a problem for me, but it is for her. So, I’ve made the decision to eventually dump the entire drivetrain of our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe club coupe, and replace it with a ‘60’s-80’s Ford 6-cylinder engine, C4 auto, and Ford rear. I’m also going to scrap the Plymouth’s front suspension, and replace it with a Ford front suspension from the A-arm pivots outward. That’ll get rid of the Lockheed style brakes, which I hate. The overall goal is to have an old car that she can drive, while being dependable with a contemporary drive train, and suspension. I’m not at all interested in keeping the car original, we both want it to look original, tho’. As for the destiny of the original components . . . . Warmest regards from the frigid northern hemisphere . . .
    1 point
  19. Welcome Aus What Andy said... Not an easy job putting an auto in, but I appreciate the reason you’re doing it. Rick
    1 point
  20. clean up those used pistons for neat pencil holders
    1 point
  21. pedal bushing? hard to tell size horn button and horn pieces spring shackles
    1 point
  22. cab mount crank pulley nut for crank handle starting at the top. throwout bearings
    1 point
  23. wrist pin clip I believe cab mount bolts
    1 point
  24. Nice find! A plus to doing a repair like this is you can cut the length as stock at the same time as most replacements are way to long. ? DJ
    1 point
  25. I had issues in the past similar to yours (truck jerking and having to reduce speed to get it to stop jerking on my 47 WC. It was fine idling and taking off from the light but would start the jerking in 4th. I am thinking fuel starved after warmed up. I say this because you have not mentioned any backfiring at all. I would expect some misfire if the ignition was at fault while you were running. The fuel pumps pump at low pressure and it doesn't take much to restrict them. Below are my thoughts in the order I would check them for the fuel system If you have a fuel filter inline confirm you can easily blow through it manually. I could see gas in mine while running in the driveway but when I removed it and blew into it I could feel it was restricted and replacing it resolved my issues. I see you rebuilt your fuel pump but the issue could still be there. My truck is running a 6volt fuel pump now but 12v are also pretty inexpensive. you can bypass your pump and see if that resolves your issue. Did you check the float adjustment in either of the carbs or the needle valves. You did not mention if these were rebuilt or checked so if not confirm this. Good luck
    1 point
  26. I sorted through all the parts that came with the truck. Lots of useful things, and a number of useless junk as well. Pretty good score though.
    1 point
  27. My start changing a beautiful car if it all works as is? Is it for the wife to drive? Way cheaper to teach her to drive a standard shift than start tearing it up/ firewall/trans tunnel /shifter/ changes on and on! Drive it and love it for the beauty she is- the car that is. Well the wife comes close second?? ?
    1 point
  28. If you need any photos of a '53 for reference, or if you have general questions, shoot me an email. I finished (are they ever finished?) my '53 a couple of years ago. The wiring (I made my harnesses), brake and fuel lines were definitely easier to replace with the engine out. I see on the side of the hood that you have "Fluid Drive" emblems (mine is a Fluid Drive, as well). If you are keeping it Fluid Drive, make sure your new engine's crankshaft has the same thickness "flywheel flange" with the same number of holes as your original. Also, the Fluid Drive has a longer bell housing to accommodate the Fluid Drive coupling than a "standard transmission" bell housing. If you are installing the engine & bell housing (with Fluid Drive or flywheel installed) as a unit, I would recommend mounting the starter and the master cylinder before putting the engine back in the truck - much less cussing involved. If you are not going with the Fluid Drive, consider changing to a modern 5 speed while it is all apart - less gear grinding and an overdrive for cruising. Several of the folks on this site have done this modification. I kept my truck predominately original, so it is still Fluid Drive. But I did go with a '90 Dakota diff. When I rebuilt the front end, I replaced my spindles, hubs and brake with those from a '70 Dodge Sweptline truck. I did this to make the brakes easier to work on and to make parts readily available. Overall, finding some of the small parts was a challenge. However, the folks on this site were great at helping me figure things out and some even had spare parts. One of the things you will get a kick out of is whenever you take it out, your truck will not look like everyone else's.
    1 point
  29. I too like the older brackets. What I have on my 1950 B2B is different from what I'm finding in the salvage yards on pre 1950.
    1 point
  30. Good NOS points have insulator cam made of so called Textolite - layers of fabric hot pressed with phenolic filler. Fabric texture is quite apparent in this material. This is the same material that was used in Chevy and Ford cam gears. Textolite won't shatter and is quite wear-proof. Later development was plastic without fabric reinforcement, which is not so strong, especially after 50+ years of storage. Speaking of capacitor, I wouldn't trust any 50 year old capacitor - they deteriorate with time . Modern mylar capacitors are the way to go. They are 1/4 size of old paper capacitors of the same value and voltage rating. Use 0.22 uF axial capacitor with at least 400 VDC rating
    1 point
  31. I got a new Wix sock oil filter for the bypass canister, and after cursing and squeezing and rolling trying to get the sock into the can, my son handed me my piston ring compressor And it works great. So the bottom line, apply a thin coat of fresh oil and crank up the piston ring, and just slide it on home.
    1 point
  32. 0.5 mfd is a 0.5 μF = microfarad . Does it say 100V or 300V ? Red ring shows minus. Old capacitors dry out and may short circuit. Changing them is always preferred. You need a 0.5 μF polarized Electrolytic Capacitor or 0.5 μF non-polarized Polyester Capacitor. Both will work as arc and noise suppressors. I would choose an axial Polyester for easier soldering.
    0 points
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