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I work solo quite a bit here at the house.....no one really near me that either is not at work or if home physically able to assist. So today my bud and I drove to the scrap metal place for a few raw materials and now I can mount my winch quickly to and from the car trailer (mount pad put in place a bit back) and today I am now able to mount/dismount this to the car hoist for helping winch non-running cars onto the lift. Will fit inside and out side of the cross bars both front and rear and allows for pulling from 4 mount positions. Simple item for sure but hope it will help out...I have a slight grade on the entrance to the shop and combined with the grade of the drive on ramps...some cars are a bit of a challenge for two people.

I have to agree with Dodge4ya. Always look for the old Autolite products for the electrical components then as backup then the Echlins, Bluse Streak, Older NAPA P&D Sorenson Filko but it takes some time to get together these components at your local swap meets. Having the cross reference numbers also help and I have a catalog that has been scanned to CD that is a cross reference for all of the major suppliers worth having in your library and then create your cross ref list over the winter time All you have to know is the Autolite part number and then you can find the equivalent part number from the other suppliers. I have attached a copy of the cover to show what manufactures are covered. This has a lot manufacturers. contact me if interested rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Picked up the Napa BAT7212 yesterday, group 4 with 925 CCA. Started the Chrysler New Yorker (straight 8 also) and ran it up and down the road to warm her up enough to change out the oil filter and summer oil, installing a fresh filter and winter oil. All set for winter now.

Jerry and Dodgeb4ya have it right. Stock up on Autolite parts on ebay. They cost a little more, but worth it. I personally have had very good luck with Andy Bernbaum as well. Vintage Power Wagons as well. I still try to buy the NOS off of ebay though, never any worrying with those parts

It holds the shaft the gears slide on to facilitate gear changes. And yes they will eat if not gasketed. Will the gasket fit if flipped over so it will block the hole. I think here is an article and a downloaded gasket template in the reference and download section of this web site.

Ebay usually has the NOS AutoLite parts . I have stocked up .

when deceleration is happening, and especially when the brakes are applied, the snout of the differential is forced downward enough to require the driveshaft to extend itself via the slip yoke or, in the case of ball and trunnion (sealed) joints , the trunnion balls are pulled toward the dust boot end. even If the joints are still good, it is possible that dried or hardened grease is interfering with smooth action. It can make a dreadful noise.

k It looks like ethanol has been offered for a lot longer than I thought! At least judging from the cars, pumps and clothes! late 30's? Anyway, you're right about valves and seats. The sodium valves do transfer heat from the valve head to guide much better than a normal valve. And, our flatties have hardened seats from the factory, so we're good.

I drive my truck nearly every day therefore not everything is period correct. I bought the basic wiring kit from Kwik wire. Very pleased with it plug in circuit breakers, shut off switch, every wire labeled as to where it goes ie right rear brake etc. I believe it was under $300.

the year of choice depends on you and what you want...the later models will involve 6 lug wheels and as a truck that is not a problem..looks out of place on cars though...I have dealt with a 89, 91, 94, 01, 03 and 04 models.....you just cannot buy one and run with it as there are going to be some trade offs in what can be kept looking original (wheels and hubcaps is main item) and what is modern.....when you get to the later models with the larger 12 inch rotors, abs brakes and such which is an easy transfer....rims are going to come into play....early years had smaller rotor, 5 lug pattern...but in my opinion, the ease of the overall job, the fact that repair parts are inexpensive, all the modern pluses of R&P, discs, better shocks, sway bar etc etc...this to me is the way to go....you also do not have to worry of the welding of the components as they are factory and all you are doing is frame coupling...which I have found is not an issue at all even for a base fabricator.....

Moving forward wanted ads are going to be free. They will still run for 30 days and you will need to re-enter your ad when the original one expires. For sale ads are still $4.99 for 30 days and if the software works correctly (and I have it set up correctly ) you should be able to renew it without entering a new ad.

An often discussed issue caught me now too: poor quality breaker points. In this specific case not the points of the distributor but the voltage breaker point of the regulator. Basically the same ... My battery has no longer been properly charged, so I checked the charging system and found that worn pair of points. I tried to file them smooth, but these were so horribly burnt, that not much of the material was left. Besides the material was so soft that it would not have last long until the next failure. Since I did not want to swap the whole regulator, I tried to find replacement contacts. I did not really expect to find one, but … ... long story short, I think I found a source which I think is worth to share and may help others with chunk breaker issues, too: Got them at a supplier* which sells service parts for old pinball gaming machines ! NOT made in China like most at a fairly reasonable price (0.85€/each) ! Point material is tungsten and a file test makes me confident they will work a while. On top is that the diameter exactly is the same as of the original points. They have a small pin on the back side to stick it into the breaker arm and can be fixed with a slight punch to the pin. That`s it. * is in Germany but I am pretty certain that gaming machine services exists almost everywhere in the world

I'd pull the shift cover and look inside. Only if there is some 'junk' in the bottom would I flush or clean. If it needs it, put some diesel in it and let that set for at least 24 hours to loosen the stuff up. Run engine with trans in neutral for a few minutes to loosen it up. Drain, repeat. Fill with new oil. If it looks clean, just drain and refill.

I would just replace it. Look for GL1-GL4 oil only, stay away from GL5.

I used to do a LOT of engine work back in the 60's early 70's. Our flaties were common in our shop then as well as Chev 6s and ford y-blocks. Based on what I observed inside those, sludge, rocker arms absolutely covered, pan only held 3 qts of oil due to the buildup, etc, it's my opinion you just can't go wrong. Any oil today is better than the best back when these engines were the normal transportation mode. But, I would recommend at least add a good PCV system and bypass oil filter. With those and today's oil, you'll be miles ahead of the best back then. Ideally, install a full flow system but that's another story.

I've been reading several previous posts concerning brands of adapters, brand and model M/C's, installation and function reviews. I have a Scarebird front disc brake conversion on my 39 Plymouth. It uses Chevy S-10 calipers. Scarebird makes a universal M/C adapter which looks like it can be positioned and drilled out to mount in place of my original M/C. Scarebird recommends using a Wilwood 260-7563 M/C kit which has a 1 inch bore which may be a Corvette M/C, but I have to look into it a little more? The Wilwood M/C kit includes the remote fillers. Summit and a few others carry this same kit. So, my next question; has anyone used the Scarebird adapter along with the Wilwood 260-7563 M/C kit on a 39 or another year that had the identical frame and floor pedal setup? This M/C has ports on the bottom.

Of course. What do you think I am,a uncultured barbarian?

Nope! Not a single one of us. Personally,I just have a team of mechanics fly in from a CA rod shop to change my oil,check tire pressures,and other major rapairs.

My 1950, approximately one coil off the stock front springs and 2 1/2 blocks on stock rear springs.

1 coil lopped off the front, 2" blocks in the rear, bottom leaf removed from spring pack, saggy rear springs. Dont let the haters get to you, plenty of us lower / modify / hot rod their Mopars. Edit: 4" blocks would blow past your scrub line. Better to go with lowered springs + a 2" block if you want it that low Adam

Here's a few pics to study, but they all say the same thing: the spring allows the brake band to float on it's mounting arm; the bolt is used to adjust the brake band; and the lock wire keeps the bolt from turning. On the '48 3 spd I added a zinc-plated flat washer, but it's not needed. The '49 spur gear 4 spd is similar to the '48. The '51 synchro 4 spd is similar to the '49 except that the mounting arm is in the 10 o'clock position instead of the 9 o'clock position.