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Going to take a LOT of Super Glue to put that one back together!

I think that looks great! I like the bead rolling.

As a quick update I zip tied a piece of a 1/2 rubber mat to the pedal where it hits the bottom of the floor pan. The clutch pedal and brake are now at the same level and brake function is unaffected with my modified system. I'll test it for a bit and if good I'll replace the zip ties with ring clamps.

I'd say #1 Take a lot of measurements between the front mounting points. Take measures of everything that looks like something that will be needed to be exactly the same. Top side , bottom, etc. write them all down!! Support the fenders in several lower locations-blocks,shims,etc. before loosening any bolts. Best of luck with your project! DJ

I know that its a different hood and opening arrangement but I've taken the hood off my 40 Dodge , then undone the radiator support frame and/ or just the radiator and removed and/or both and while the fenders may have dropped a fraction so long as you don't undo the fender to cowl bolts you shouldn't have any real issue.............you may even be able to just leave the hood in place also and just undo only the specific radiator support bolts, think there are 2 thru the crossmember, a couple on the each side halfway up the support frame and a couple where the fender side attaches............more or less......lol...........dunno if this helps ...........andyd

Still have to finish off the back behind the seatbelt bracket bar and the vertical part of the bench pedestal. Then on to the hard part making the removable trans tunnel/motor hump

k It looks like ethanol has been offered for a lot longer than I thought! At least judging from the cars, pumps and clothes! late 30's? Anyway, you're right about valves and seats. The sodium valves do transfer heat from the valve head to guide much better than a normal valve. And, our flatties have hardened seats from the factory, so we're good.

It can be hard to check a U-joint with the shaft installed and loaded. I'd remove the driveshaft... open each end up and look for gouging wear in each of the Detroit Ball and Trunnion bell housings.

I would suggest checking the u joints.

My daughter, (knowing my interests), gave me some manuals this Christmas she had collected through the year .I will be adding them to my modest library of automotive literature. The U.S. Military Automotive manual is one that I have not yet read, although I am sure some of you on this forum are quite familiar with it...

Lots of silly rules and people at car shows, I usually park outside the venue and stroll around......it never fails there will be people checking out my coupe....lol. But the silliest of all are the shows that allow brand new cars to enter☹️ and award them best of show..........

I read a study recently that claimed that humans eat more bananas than monkeys. For the life of me, I cant remember ever eating a monkey.

Harvie, It’s your car, your money, and your choice. Using a good oil, and adding a zinc/zddp additive just makes good sense for an older engine. It protects the cam, and the lifters. It doesn’t make any difference whether the engine’s a high-reving/high-performance one, or a more sedate as most of the I-6 flat-heads are. Look at it this way – it certainly won’t hurt anything, and it’s cheap insurance – a lot cheaper than having to go into the engine to replace the camshaft and/or the lifters.