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I was absentmindedly thumbing through the latest issue of Old Cars Weekly, when I saw an ad saying there is still time to buy your "Old Cars Weekly Riders Ride 2019 Calendar" The B&W picture was a woodie that had to be a '40-'41 Plymouth. They are the only production woodie wagons that I know of that all four doors are full rectangles -all other have a dogleg cutout for the second set of doors. As I looked closer I realized that it was MY wagon! I had forgotten that I sent pictures to OCW six months ago for the 2019 calendar, but they never told me I had made the cover! Below is a picture of when I found the wagon on eBay in 2003, and last year after I had it pretty much finished. So I guess I should say get your calendar now?

So when you shave the deck lid on your Plymouth what do you do with the brake light lens? Here's the stained glass window our daughter made with mine. Reuse, repurpose, whatever. Just never throw parts away!

How do I report my dad to the administrator and get him kicked off my topic?

I would like to take a minute here and extend a Happy Holidays wish to my forum members and express a heartfelt thank you to all of the folks here who have shared their knowledge and time to help me in my effort of working towards the restoration of our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project. Many of you have helped on occasion, and a few have really been generous with their time and knowledge helping me work through issues and concerns. I'm sure just like many of the members here on the forum, I want the very best for this old car, and that pertains down to each and every nut and bolt connection, piece and part. However, it is without a doubt obvious that I am way on the upper end of being obsessive compulsive about it all. In all honesty, if I could change it, I would, it's more of a curse than anything else...anyway - at 62 yrs old I don't suppose I'll be able to have much change on the way this old mind of mine works for the remaining years I have. That said, I would like to express my appreciation and sincere thanks for many that immediately come to mind, here on the forum, that have hung in there with me, and obviously have gone above and beyond to always try to help answer the many questions I have posted here on the forum, over the past few years.....Plymouthy Adams especially has been second to none, (as I have pm'd him so many times, even called him direct on the phone, etc...as I value his knowledge so very much, and also many others immediately come to mind, Young Ed is another that always helps and is quick to share information and knowledge with others, he has helped me many times,..DB4ya is another, Andy down in Australia,..Don Coatney is another,...and certainly over the past few years there have been quite a few others who have been good enough to share info and help me out...again, thank you all for each and every minute you took from your time to try and assist me...I am extremely thankful for your efforts, and so very thankful for the day that I found and joined this forum. Steve

Couldn’t you just cut the necessary taper into the inner edge of the outer boards so that their inner edges are parallel? Then the inner 3 boards would all set in straight with straight shovel strips.

Bendix Hydrovac variety

All - Pretty new here and to pre 65 Mopars so I'm hoping to gather some good advise and knowledge from you all. I've taken on a 51 Meadowbrook project that I'm playing with and have some questions that I can't seem to find any answers. Currently I'm working with getting the frame solid. I've installed disc brakes and an 8-3/4 that I had laying around from my Charger. I've replaced the front and rear springs as well as rebuilt the kingpins. I've purchased an engine/trans adapter kit from Butch's and plan on a R&P conversion as well. I have a 318/904 combo that I want to install with this kit. My issues: New rear springs are making the rear sit HIGH. I know they will settle some over time and I've set the body back on the frame to see if that helps but it hasn't yet. May have to do a lowering kit. This is not a huge issue but just wanted to give you that info. New front springs from Detriot are too stiff. Even with the body and engine weight the springs are still buried on the upper control arm bump stops. Do I need to cut these springs? Bigger issues: I've mocked the motor in and I'm needing advise on placement. Seems to be too low and still leaning back. I can raise the tranny some but that is the one thing with the Butch's kit that I know I have per instructions. The trans crossmember is level with the bottom of the frame as instructed. Other issue is that if I lower the engine further, I'm concerned about the R&P hitting the pan, which it already is. That's problem #2. my rack is interfering with my oil pan, Do I need to raise the engine more or replace the pan. Seems to me that I need a rear sump pan but I'm hoping someone else will tell me for sure. I haven't installed the R&P yet because I'm wanting to cut the springs to get the proper ride height and geometry. Don't want to cut the springs until I can get the weight of the motor permanently on the frame. Don't want to install the motor until I get the rack in!!! See my catch 22? So if someone else had done this and can save me the design headache, I'd love to talk to you or get some pictures and advice. Thanks!!!

Four of us plan on leaving Chicago and going to California on the northern route the first week in March. Then after spending time In California sightseeing, we plan on flying home. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because none of us of ever rode a train before. I am concerned I will get extremely bored on the train for two days. One thought we had was possibly spending a day or two in Denver.

Thanks! I took my time and spent a lot of time searching for parts. One of the hardest choices was what color to paint it? Mother Chrysler made the '40 wagons (and earlier) kind of like a beige blob going down the road -beige paint, tan roof, non-contrasting wood, yellow brackets etc. One of my goals was to highlight the craftsmanship of the era, so I went with the darker green, contrasting ash structural pieces with mahogany panels, and powdered coated the brackets and seat frames with bronze, and copper. Found a local upholster who duplicated the original french stitch on the seats. Tom Gagner ('41 Plymouth woodie owner) and I had the original window sliding knobs reproduced, by an old radio restorer, etc. Details are what make a good restoration, and Forum member's advice kept me from quitting many times! All yours now for only $4.95!

Or maybe this one...or is it two?

I have never worked with ipe before, sounds like it is tough to cut. Is it possible to back cut at a angle the edge boards, this would remove material on the bottom and leave the top. Then take a #2 pencil and scribe the edges, tracing the sides to the wood. Then use your grinder with 80 grit paper and grind to the line .... this will get you real tight, also can adjust the taper issue so the middle board is cut straight. This is how I would tackle oak or other woods, You can get a fit so tight that cant slide a hair through, then pull the board away from the sides for proper reveal, any adjusting I would want to do it on the edge boards. Making a straight 90 degree cut on the edges is tough to get a tight fit. Especially if the bed rails lean a bit or you have round corners on the wheel wells. Your cuts look really good though. If you could picture using your grinder and grind at a 20 degree angle on the bottom side of the edges. Then the top side that you see is thinner, but on the edges and fine ... and the thin wood with a steady hand, you can easily grind to the line you scribe'd. Same time use a square and math and figure out how much to remove from each edge, to square up the hole in the center. If possible, adjusting the edge boards to eliminate the problem is the correct way. Same time, you could just cut the center board to fit and drop it in.

Wow, just WOW! I'm blown away by your retoration

What do you have patents on? Advise, grumpiness, collections of Chevy car magazines?

Hi-rail trucks (hiway /rail) . Possibly made special for executives.

all right Don, I have had it with you...STAY OUT OF MY GARAGE WITH YOUR CAMERA...!

I was going by the grille and how similar it is the the grille on my 39 D-2 1/2 ton IHC pu. IHC was seriously into the art deco look in the late 30's.

As a trombone player who grew up buying Doc Severinsen (remember his blazers?) albums, I'm squarely in Nick's corner!

Rats - my true identity is revealed! I hear you about not wanting to coverup that wood. The thing about soft stuff, like gaskets and caulk in the construction world, and that perimeter bed angle used on stock beds mentioned earlier, is that they conceal gaps and inconsistencies. You are talking about scribing a pretty tight open joint between something straight - hardwood that's been cut to width on a table saw - and something that wasn't flat or square when new - the bed sides. Waviness and out of square edges can be masked by a little bigger gap than your ideal 1/16". As I tell the tradespeople on site: Make it look like you meant it!

Yep, a piston Hydrovac brake booster. There is even a company that will rebuild them. I snapped a pic off their site (poor pic, sorry).

Lots of other work to be done, but I decided I'd make my own steering wheel I'm using a tilt telescopic column so I kinda needed a custom wheel My brother has a cnc router so I'm getting him to cut me wood rings. I'm thinking Baltic birch plywood to give it a laminate look.... we will see. I kinda like the unfinished look Might just give it a clear coat

It it had wings and less wheels it would look like a Ford Trimotor.

Oversized cow watering trough on wheels?

Ipe (aka ironwood) won't move much with moisture nor will it crush much. The stuff is so dense it has the same fire rating as concrete.

so about 975 pounds wet and 905 pounds dry for the 6bt....I was high on my initial weight

I remain a big fan of your hand sketches! (your build is pretty cool, too!)

Geez, Don. What else are doing in your shop. Is that blood on the ground? I know, I know... what happens in fight shop stays in fight shop.

I plan on doing g a frame replacement in the near future due to a bent passenger side frame rail. One of the members is sending me his stock frame since he is doing a S10 swap. I plan on reinforcing it and having it powder coated before installing it.

I bet the valves don't get adjusted hot...