Leaderboard

Yea....I agree. I decided to leave it and see if it grew on me.......I ended up marrying the help, so I left it. lol. 48D

I have positively identified it as "Very Cool"!

Clean to bare metal, properly secure ground, touch up paint.

Many pics I have seen on this forum have shown a ground to the front left head bolt that has the special but available at times-threaded top with the positive grounded there. I do Not personally like that because the bolt itself goes into a water jacket of the block! Most Mopar trucks on the truck side of the forum however show the ground to the starter bolt at the block. I Much prefer the truck method of the grounding. I agree with other posts- add a ground motor to body-motor to frame and add as many as reasonable between major parts! You never have grounding issues then. DJ

A friend has had auto parts stores, collects old auto items and Chebby trucks. He has an item that we’re not sure of. He thinks it might be to service or check vacuum wiper motors. Any ideas?

Bed wood is actually pretty easy...really all you need is a table saw or skill saw and a router.

She's a beauty. The truck looks nice too.

Did you inspect for and remove the mylar bar code inventory sticker that Coker puts inside the tires before you mounted them??? If not they will with time and miles chaff the tube sides causing flats.

you will have to block the hole in the head thread and insert a plug made from a bolt 9/16 NF will work.. wheel bolt size If the engine has not been run you can safely reuse your gasket. or use a 51 and later gasket which will effete actively cover the bump.

I will not give the previous post encouragement by responding. I would like like to say thanks to All past, present and future military members for there services to our country. I truly enjoy my freedom. May god bless you.

Have you tried a google search for YOM plate restorers in your state? Here in Ontario there are a couple of enterprising individuals who restore and sell YOM plates that are quaranteed to meet our MTO requirements. Both companies usually have a good selection of restored plates to chose from. I have one set for my 1938 and have just ordered one for my 1946. Unfortuately YOM plates here are basically treated as personalized plates, so yearly stickers are same price as a normal vehicle, not the bargan renewals of historic plated cars. But there is no restrictions on the YOM plated cars like our historic plates.

I must agree with both DJ194950, and with chrysler1941 – with DJ194950 regarding the location of the engine’s grounding location, and with chrysler1941 regarding the appearance of the braided straps typically utilized for grounding purposes. Where’s it written that grounds must be specific locations, or that grounds must be braided??? On our car, I used very large/regular battery cables for the grounds, simply because I prefer their appearance. The braided straps look really bad once they’re dirty. Dirty battery cables just wipe clean. I also have fabricated “ground lugs” – 1 under the hood, 1 under the dashboard, and 1 in the trunk – with all of them connected together, and the whole team connected to the same location as the negative cable from the battery (yes, the negative terminal – the car was wired that way when we got it, and when I rewired the car, I saw no really good reason to change it). Regards to both of you . . .

Conn47D24, Anywhere on the block with a good clear connection will work. When considering the head as a connection, be sure not to loosen a head bolt, lest you run the risk of a resultant leaking head gasket, which will most definitely ruin one’s day . . . . Regards to you . . .

Restore them yourself! I did mine and it was an enjoyable experience.

I would say Don't drop it. Especially on your toes. Oldguy48 is right. They are a wee bit heavy. The center floorboard section of my 48 had been welded in place by some knucklehead in the past so I had to do everything from under the car. One thing I found when putting the transmission back in by my self was using all thread as guides. I got a long piece of all thread from one of the big box home stores that was the same size as the bolt that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Cut it into four pieces and screwed them into the bellhousing mounting holes. That allowed me to lift the trans with my floor jack with some wood to stabilize it and slide the trans over the all thread using it as a guide to align the input shaft into the throwout bearing. Once the trans has seated against the bellhousing put double nuts on one piece of the all thread and use that to back it out of the bellhousing so that you can install one of the mounting bolts. Repeat the process for the rest of the all thread and bolts.