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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/28/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Don Coatney

    Young ED and 52B3B Joe

    It is so good to see younger folks take such an interest in these old cars and trucks. These guys both have fathers who own and maintain old cars and trucks and they both have been taught well by there fathers. They both ask questions but with every question they comment on what they have done and where they have looked prior to asking there questions. In other words they do there homework. I have personally met both of these guys and Joe's dad. I am proud to call them my friends.
  2. 3 points
    Stupid people and their cell phones.
  3. 2 points
    jmooner3

    Radiator Replacement 49 B1B

    My truck had a period correct radiator but was from a desoto car I think, welded a bracket to fit but overall it was wrong for our trucks. It sprung a leak and I started looking for a replacement. That is where I found SUPERIOR RADIATORS from Mt. Clemens Michigan. http://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com , 586-463-8722. I spoke to Charlie about our trucks he had a drop in radiator $380. he tweaked a couple designs and came up with a nice fit for my truck. These are tig welded aluminum radiators, thing looks beautiful in the truck. Charlie was great to work with and I've got the radiator in the truck. I don't yet have the shroud on or hood back on to verify final fit, but it mounted right up to our rad support. If you're looking for a radiator for a b series truck, I suggest you give Charlie a shot...
  4. 2 points
    glad you avoided the accident...the man that sped off....probably does not have license or insurance and a host of other legality issues....
  5. 1 point
    HotRodTractor

    The D.C. P15 Update

    So - I towed the old girl over to the farm shop because I have a 2 post lift - so its way easier to get under the car and change things like my dead fuel pump. It was miserable day to do this... but its the first chance that I had and I had help. Cold, wind blowing, and spitting rain off and on. Good thing its a short trip. I proceeded to inspect the fuel system, found the inline filter along the frame rail, and started to figure out what supplies I would need need to install an electric fuel pump on the frame rail. In the meantime I swapped the mechanical pump out for a good one and after bleeding the air out of the system she fired right up and idled beautifully. Unfortunately if you want to see a grown man cry.... watch his face as a glass sediment bowl slips through his fingers full of gas and accelerates towards the shop floor only to have it reach its destination with a resounding crash. It sucks, but it is what it is now. I'll find a replacement bowl in my stash of stuff somewhere I'm sure. I continued on with my wiring project and installed my fusebox base and cover. The cover JUST fits over the assembly with the new electronic flasher unit for the LEDs.... I'm probably going to print a new cover with a bit more room, and spaces for spare fuses, a fuse tester, and a fuse removal tool. I have the rear lights wired up - tail lights, turn signals, and brakes are all good to go! I now have enough done that I can start to drive her around a bit and put some miles on her. Most notably to drive her to get VIN inspected hopefully sometime this week. Things to do: Shorten wires going to the hi/low beam switch on the floor. Wire up dash lights Figure out high beam indicator mounting and light (I have a blue LED that I am going to use) Install wire loom Zip tie up the wiring in the trunk Install heater Install electric fuel pump Hookup front turn signals (still undecided in my direction on these, either a double bulb in the parking lights, or perhaps use a set of 7" headlights I have sitting here with LED "angel eye" daytime running lights and turn signals.... or maybe both). Hookup emergency brake cable (need to buy some supplies) Front seat..... I need to do something with it. either make a foam cushion for it, or completely replace it with something like Chevy silverado buckets out of an early 2000s (they happen to have integrated seat belts, so that would be a nice added feature as well) Jason
  6. 1 point
    Thebeebe5, It’s incredibly fortunate that you didn’t collide with the other driver. It appears that, at the very worst, you may’ve soiled yourself (which is probably what I would’ve done . . .). And here I tho’t that the east coast had a monopoly on the world’s worst drivers, and I’m convinced Baltimore still retains that title . . . Regards . . . . .
  7. 1 point
    pflaming

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Update: I'm working on the little things required to test drive the car. The shifter lever and handle is with my machinist. It will be one piece milled aluminum, lever and handle all the way to the bottom pivot pin. The R/1 selector trigger pivot end in a milled out center space. I've eliminated the mini console, replaced by a tunnel side mounted leather boot, the floor is held in with metal screws waiting for a friend to weld it in, etc., etc., little things eat up TIME! Will have photos mid week. I had no idea how much more work is involved repairing a car vs a truck. My Dodgers don't seem to be able to handle the Red Sox. Bummer!
  8. 1 point
    As a child growning up my father tucked me in at night with: I should adapt this for Dodge Truckers?!
  9. 1 point
    How old is Rubber and what does she look like?
  10. 1 point
    I had planned to get the grill in primer and set aside until I finished the frame and drive train but couldn’t resist getting it ready for paint. It has been over 30 years since I have done any real body work and paint. The grill definitely put me to the test - lots of nooks and crannies. Ready for paint. Still debating color - I picked up a couple of pints, should have the first test colors sprayed tomorrow. Going with single stage paint to keep the vintage looking finish - not sticking with original colors.
  11. 1 point
    ptwothree

    6vdc fan motor to 12vdc

    I would opt to change to a 12 volt motor for the heater. Resistors run hot and is a mickey mouse way to solve a problem that is easily fixed. They run hot too...potential to burn down your ride. 6 volt gauge on 12 volts. Get a solid state 6 volt regulator. Part #7806. They are cheap at $3 bucks or so and will provide an unwavering 6 volts to your gauges. Simple to wire. Might need a very small heat sink as they don't produce the kind of heat a resistor would. I have done this and it works great! This is what I have used to run 6 volt gauges on 12v https://www.engineersgarage.com/electronic-components/7806-ic
  12. 1 point
    Blucars.......the use of 2nd hand, pre used, used or junked parts is quite o/k so long as you, the person using them chooses wisely, ie, if the car has been in a front accident them its possible that those parts from the front of the car will have sustained damage, likewise the reverse is true, another factor to consider is that when some of these modifications were done the aftermarket industry for our particular vehicles just didn't exist.............my 1940 Dodge has been a hotrod since 1973, I installed the 318 Poly V8 & auto, etc and by 1975/76 it also had 4 wheel disc brakes and a rack & pinion steering and so far 40 yrs later its going fine...........parts included both 2nd hand & new..........andyd
  13. 1 point
    Life in 2018. No change in chewing gum sales as I have been told it is still not possible to walk and chew gum at the same time.
  14. 1 point
    If not for the Dodge Brothers, Ford would not have had parts to assemble the cars ...remember, he did not invent the car...he just perfected to some degree the assembly line...
  15. 1 point
    blucarsdn

    1937 Plymouth Sedan Rear Springs

    DPCD will generally only appear on hard parts, bumpers, hubcaps, suspension, etc., Prior to about 1932 the letters DB for Dodge Bros can be found on parts used in other DPCD vehicles. Another interesting side bar, Model T Fords prior to 1914 have a significant number of parts stamped with DB. A friend of mine has a 1913 Ford Model T that was an unmolested original car which he had put in storage for almost forty years awaiting the time to work on it. When he tore it down to restore it, much to his surprise he found that the rear end was all DB, except for the right axle which had been replaced at some point in time. My friend had to look high and low to find a DB axle for the car.
  16. 1 point
    Adam H P15 D30

    265 Blown Head Gasket

    Check your block and head for flatness and chase all the bolt holes. I know it was just rebuilt but check anyway, they will probably be fine. Replace the head gasket, run it through a single heat cycle, then retorque (very important). Run through another heat cycle or 2 and retorque again. Shouldn't have an issue after. Make sure you advance the timing a little from specification, it will make it run cooler. Factory spec is ok if you are using 1950's fuel, fuel now days is different so give it a few degrees of initial advance. A 180 thermostat is fine since you have a little pressure in the system raising the boiling point. Adam
  17. 1 point
    Finally got around to spraying some epoxy primer on the front grill. I stripped it down to bare metal back in July or August and it has been sitting on my bench since then. I have never sprayed epoxy primer before so I mixed up a small batch - just enough to spray the top piece. I was very happy with the results. Tomorrow, I will finish cleaning up the bottom section and get some primer on that. Now I am trying to decide if I should hit it with a coat of urethane primer. From what I have read, I only have about a week to cover the epoxy primer - I won’t be ready for paint for a long time.
  18. 1 point
    I know this topic of radials used onthe older cars has been discussed many times over. But according to the AACA the reason why they do not permit radials on cars that did not come standard with them is becasue the frame geomoetry and the suspension that were on our older cars is not setup correctly to handle in a safe manner the rolling and corning characteristics of the raial tires eventhought some people promote the safety aspect. i have had the Goodyear Bia Ply all weather 600X16 tires onmy 39 desoto and I just changed to the same tires becsue I was down to3/32 tread and I used the same tire again and I got over 22 years out of a set of these tires. I feel that since I like to travel around 50 MPH whe driving the car I am not worried about the performance aspect but jsut the pleaseure of driving the older car and the experience. If this was a daily driver then i might have put onthe radials but it is designed for plesure driving and tours and going to car events. everyone seems to be in a big hurry to go places with these older cars and want to do 60-70 mph. If you plan on going at those speeds then suggest that you convert to full disk brakes and a small block engine in the car and then you now have a hotrod and not an antique car. The body is the same but the car has been changed to a hotrod. so you can not have both and be an antique car just my opinion. Rich Hartung
  19. 1 point
    Double clutching is the easy way. If you practice you can shift up and down without using the clutch. Just have to match the engine speeds while shifting. Once you get the hang of it you will only need the clutch for starting and stopping. You would only use the compound low for stating out when you have a heavy load, lot easier on the clutch.


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