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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2018 in all areas

  1. New to the forum, already been impressed with the amount of knowledge here. I'm the proud new owner of a "barn find" '54 C1C6 from Arizona. Still working on the title issues with an out of state purchase, but will get it done. The truck is from what I can tell 95% original still, just needs a lot of love and attention to get back up and running. Probably going to upset some purists with some of the things I'm looking at updating/replacing, but some original parts will become available as a result. Not my 1st rodeo with a restoration, just recently converted from old Jeep/Willys to the Dodge. Previously completed a '69 Jeep CJ-5, and a '62 Willys Wagon. Both fun projects, but kids were too young to help. Now they're older, and it's time to teach 'em about the old vehicles with some work involved. Thanks. Eric
    2 points
  2. Keven, with the front disc conversion, I'll drop from a 5x5 to a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I'll have to double check the WJ bolt pattern, I know the ZJ, XJ, YJ, TJ are all 5x4.5 though. I've got a few more pics, unfortunately it's bundled up on the in-laws property right now. Gotta get the work area at the house cleared up and ready for all the chaos of tearing it apart.
    2 points
  3. Just a update, new carb. installed. two pumps on foot feed , motor starts faster than I can get foot off stomp starter... hot or cold . revs good , like an old tractor motor. now the duration test . time will tell !!
    2 points
  4. Paul use at least 18 Ga. cold rolled steel for your repairs. Your welder will not work at all with anything as thin as what you are trying to use. Even with a better welder using gas and plain wire can be tricky to weld new 18 Ga. to old metals. All metals to be welded Must be Cleaned to bare metal. Best is No rust top or bottom side, helps a lot to eliminate pin holes in the welds. Good luck, you will get it with perseverance! DJ
    1 point
  5. 31 years of driving so far. Have done countless oil changes in every vehicle I have ever owned. Add my wife's, and both of my son's cars. Add my mother-in-law's cars... That is a lot of oil changes. So far.. I have no intention of paying someone any time soon, to do a half-a**'d job of it for me. I taught my sons how to do things right themselves, and pocket the savings. It adds up to a lot of money over the decades. I enjoy the chance to get under my car and inspect things. Leaks, ball joint wear, tires, all that stuff and more. Then I plan to tackle those items that need addressing. Most memorable oil change? My 1953 Fluid Torque Drive, 265 motor. The torque is engine oil fed. Every oil change I have to line up the torque drain plug and drain it too. The entire change take 13 quarts if I recall. 2nd most memorable? When my oldest son was ready to tackle his own oil changes alone. What a mess he made! LOL. Dirty and clean oil all over the place. He said I made it look easy. Pouring it in the fill spout, lining up the drain pan. Pulling the plug and not getting oil on me. I laughed when he spun off his filter and carried from the driveway into the garage. Open side down. He was cleaning up his mess for some time after the service was complete. Recent oil changes in my "new to me" 3/4T diesel upp'd the game. Black dirty oil. Big drain plans. Bigger wrenches. Generally more grunting on bigger vehicles. I enjoy the new challenges and learning. I just may well be happiest when I have completed my own vehicle repairs, folded my money in half, and put it back in my pocket. How very satisfying it is.
    1 point
  6. Here is one my other toys, Funco Hustler II. Subaru 2.5 turbo and Mendeola 2D.
    1 point
  7. This might or might not help.
    1 point
  8. I have a lot of cars and trucks so for me It was very cost effective to buy and learn to use needed special tools like my industrial phaffsewing machine and binder. Roberts card board kits are not sealed against moisture and they can warp and get wavy... but for those who are saving $$$ they work. I know costs are going up producing products but like Ebay .lately it seems a lot of people are listingh super high prices hoping they will get the big pay off. It has turned me off of Ebay for sure. Tired of the hosers.
    1 point
  9. There is a lot of debate on pilot bushings... Some are Bronze .. some "Oilite". And others. Some are semi- magnetic... some not. An "Oilite" porus bushing already has oil impregnated in it when new. To see if it is a oil impregnated Oilite type bushing that should NOT be greased set the bushing on a finger.. fill it with thin oil to the top... seal the bushing off with another finger and sqeeze.... Oil should ooze out the sides.......an Oilite bushing has pores and if you use grease on it it will seal these pores up and galling can occur causing sqealing and input shaft wear. Know what type of pilot bushing you are installing. Brass Bronze, Oilite etc. Then lube it properly if required.
    1 point
  10. I do understandreasonable labor and material costs..... Seeing charges as above forced me to do most all my own work...
    1 point
  11. We removed the original shackle parts from the frame, which left a clean bore for the "Delrin" (plastic) bushing, same type in the spring eyes. The rear axle under my '39 is a HD GM 10 bolt unit, (early Camaro) 54-1/4" backing plate to BP, same as '39 Plym. Engine is 330 hp SBC w/700R4 trans. We were concerned about axle wrap with the added torque of the AT and V8, that is why we used Posie springs. Fortunately the early DPCD's have open drive-lines so the problems can be minimal going from a 6 cyln to a V8. Closed drive line vehicles can present huge problems with axle wrap when the closed drive-line is omitted and stock springs are retained.
    1 point
  12. I never thought about Arvin making Automotive heaters. After my parents retirement we moved to North Mississippi. My mother worked for and Arvin plant in Verona, MS for several years. My father had a business mowing yards and took a contract to mow the plant grounds. He also took a part time job as a Security Guard for the plant. Like a lot of manufacturers the succumbed to NAFTA. They tried for a while to manufacture off shore but ended up in bankruptcy falling victim to Chinese imported heaters.
    1 point
  13. Check your block and head for flatness and chase all the bolt holes. I know it was just rebuilt but check anyway, they will probably be fine. Replace the head gasket, run it through a single heat cycle, then retorque (very important). Run through another heat cycle or 2 and retorque again. Shouldn't have an issue after. Make sure you advance the timing a little from specification, it will make it run cooler. Factory spec is ok if you are using 1950's fuel, fuel now days is different so give it a few degrees of initial advance. A 180 thermostat is fine since you have a little pressure in the system raising the boiling point. Adam
    1 point
  14. Doc.......I think 59Biscuits pic is of his 54 Frod Coupe front end, at least thats what I understood it to be...........looking at the pic again I must admit the angle of the steering column shaft has me perplexed but the rest of it and the mounting arrangement of the rack and the tie rod pivot points seem o/k for that type of front end to me............andyd
    1 point
  15. Not to worry, sanding is big fun; I know!
    1 point
  16. Got the shroud/fan sealed to the radiator with foam side rails and attached the B&M oil cooler to the front of it last night. Tonight I chased the 3/8” fine thread holes in the rad support with a tap, mounted the aluminum radiator brackets and hung the whole mess in the front clip.
    1 point
  17. So I put up a new clock in my office today. I think the dash looks a little jarring like new white sneakers but I’ll get used to it and hopefully fix the place up a bunch so it looks less out of place.
    1 point
  18. I know nothing about Snyder cams,but I have bought,used,and had good luck with 2 different cams bought from Delta Cams in Tacoma,Wa. They not only rebuild cams and grind them to spec,but they also rebuild tappets. Best if all,chances are they will have a cam in stock and you can get a credit when you return your old cam in the box they use send you the new one. Last time I checked they do custom grinds and can and will create old 3/4 race grinds from the 40's and 50's. http://www.deltacam.com/
    1 point
  19. Here are pictures of the Miller Mopar tools to remove and install the pilot bushing. I have both of these tools. rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  20. Yes, Machine screws. Seems that I remember that they are 10-32. I know some areas in the cab use 12-32, which are harder to find, but I don’t believe the gauge screws are that large.
    1 point
  21. I didn't think about posting motorcycle pics!! This is my 1968 Norton Atlas 750. Lots of engine mods, and now that it's finished; still didn't have cables and stuff on in this pic; I've decided it's too purty to ride. I have a '62 Norton 650SS for riding, at least as long as I'm still able to kick it over.
    1 point
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