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And to others who may be interested here is a video from cruising the Coast. We put around 2500 miles on the wagon and had a ball! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiG6_hs30vM

and as no one has mentioned it as of yet, I will. DO NOT apply grease to the new bushing.

On my truck, I have 2 small 1/2" holes up high on the firewall, one is for the vacuum wiper hose, the other is for the cowl vent hose. the holes sit diagonal of each other, the lower right is for the cowl drain.

Yes, the hole to the right of the throttle pedal link is for the speedo cable. The cowl vent drain hose goes back through the firewall.

48P15...........welcome aboard......lol...........I'm a hotrodder so you'll get some support from me although you have ruffled a few feathers re the dodge gearbox statement....lol.........Torqueflites were'nt and aren't too bad..........lol............you have the Frod engine/trans/rear end so yep it makes sense to me to use what you have, why, I've even got an Oz Frod 1991 Falcon wagon rear axle, it bolted straight in replacing a 1962 Oz Chrysler rear end that had been there since 1973 when I installed the 318 Poly & Torqueflite, 4 wheel discs, rack & pinion, 2" widened rear fenders, etc.........your car looks to be a nice car, actually I like the wheel tyre combo........my car has been a hotrod since 1973 so I've seen it all and heard just about every comment whether good intentioned or smartarsed over the years, all I'd suggest is not too worry, its YOUR car, YOUR money and yeh a few of us may and will make suggestions that may seem that we don't understand..........lol........ its probably just that we've been around the traps a bit.........lol........err....does it show?......lol.............anyway heres a pic of my 1940 Oz Dodge.............welcome aboard.......Andy Douglas,

Glad to see the support for 48p. BTW,....I put a 5.0l and AOD in another project and the only problem was identifying the correct accessories since I did not start out with a 5.0 in the car.

the oil for the air tool...that is usually 10 W

Probably about as much fun as I had driving a right handed car (rental) in Australia as I had for about 8 months years ago. Brisbane had roundabouts everywhere some 3 lanes wide and the went the Wrong way around them, Boy what fun they were!! Ran yellow lights there also as I do in Ca., USA all the time as the police do. Was informed in Aus. the traffic light cameras (everywhere it seems) will send you a ticket for that but never heard a word about that from the USA company I was working for other there in Aus. ☺️ DJ

I have some bullet connectors if you need them. Did you install the new vacuum gauge? I have a roll of the blue wire loom I forgot to send with you. If you want it let me know. I have a new pillar switch for the interior light. If you want it let me know. Bearing number for the transmission pilot bearing. There is a fuel filter located on the inner frame rail below the drivers side rear door. I have never changed it. You might consider installing the electric fuel pump I sent with you. If the car sits for a few days the carburetors evaporate and it takes a bit of cranking to fill them up. The gas tank filler pipe may leak where it enters the tank. This only happens when you fill the tank all the way to the top. I did not deal with it because I never added more than 10-12 gallons when the gauge was below the 1/4 mark. And the 10-12 gallons carried me 150 miles or so and by then I was ready for a pee stop.

Well 48p, so much for the "no negative comments please". Hardly any you could even call neutral. So,....here's a little support. I have a Hot Rodded P15 coupe. Spent waaaay too much money but I'm damn proud of it. It happens to be all Mopar but I still get crap from the so-called purists who have only modified their cars "just a little bit!" Great that you have an engine and drive train, money in the bank. However to do what you're proposing, you are not excused from doing some fabrication or paying someone to do so.. A different engine/trans/rearend will require some cuttin and pastin. Ford engines are a bit narrower than the other small blocks but,.....they are also a bit longer,....in any case meaning some modification of the firewall and/or core support is certain. I still had to do that with a Mopar engine. Bolt on front disk brake kits are available from vendors listed on this forum. Dropped spindles and shock mounts are also readily available. Drove my car with this setup for years. There is also a Cavalier rack and pinion kit available and which many folks have installed,; however, you still have a steering column and shift linkage issue to address. I could not bring myself to use it. Seemed like a real cobble job to me and I ultimately went with a new front clip. My P15 modification was not without it's challenges. It was the first time I attempted such an extensive project. But I learned a lot. Approach it like eating an elephant,...one bite at a time. ? Good luck!

I've had a productive couple of evenings late this week and a couple of hours yesterday to work on the old girl. Fuse box is mounted and wires are pretty much all run where they need to go. Gauges are installed and for the most part functioning. Everything is done under the hood except wire loom and figuring out running new wires to add in front turn signals. All the wires are routed to back of the car and distributed about - I just need to finish wiring them into lights. I do need to get a new flasher relay to work with the LEDs - this unit doesn't appear to flash at all currently. I need to wire in the dash lights. I need to figure out what I am going to do with the high beam indicator and light. Probably going to go LED and make a little bracket so the original housing works. I need to run the choke and throttle cables. Tailight power isn't wired in yet - I needed a bullet connector for the wiring that I don't have - I'll pick that up later this week. I also need to adjust the fuel sender a bit. I followed the directions and it appears that something is off..... 4" worth of gas in a tank that is 10" deep is not nearly empty..... which brings me to my next problem to tackle..... I went out for a spin yesterday morning - the first ride for the girlfriend and her best friend that was in from Texas..... after fighting with the car for a bit, she fired up and I drove over to the farm to grab some fuses (I popped one because I left the power on while wiring in the headlight switch... dumb!)... anyway.... 1.7 miles is all I made it and the car shut off like its out of gas. I popped the tops of the carbs.... empty. Fuel tank is nearly half full and relatively clean (I just dropped the sending unit down into the tank). So it looks like I lost the fuel pump. I grabbed the tractor and towed it back to my garage. Again I've got a busy first few days of the week on the road, so it will be later in the week before I have much chance to mess with it. I did take a quick gander down in there and lamented about how little room there is compared to a Pilothouse for access to that fuel pump.... oh well it has to be done. Jason

There are no kits, that's the beauty of building an old mopar, you HAVE to build it. It's not a cookie cutter shoebox.......I have no problem with cutting and modifying any car. Free country and it's your car to do what you want to it. The biggest issue I see with your build is that you have no fab skills. You are at the mercy of a shop. Front disc brakes are easy, swap in a Cherokee rear. Pretty much looking at dropping it off at a shop and leaving a blank check. If I couldn't personally build my cars and bikes, I'd quit and take up golf. That's 80% of the fun.

My '49 230 still has some silver paint on it after all these years...I verified with the build card that it is the original engine, and when I opened it up in '04, the innerds were in very good shape with no stuck rings, near pristine cylinder bores, tight bearings, ok valves (but loose guides)...the oilpan had sludge that was partially submerging the pickup strainer, and crud was in the water jacket ckear up into the top freeze plugs, but that was relatively painless to clean out...I didn't know of a good way to replace the front and rear main seals back then with the engine in the truck, but I did find an article on how to replace the valve guides, and that old engine came back to life, running as smooth as a sewing machine, but leaked oil out of those 2 seals enough that I had to stop driving it a few years ago...that plus the wiring was shot... A word of caution: engine flush treatments will not work on these flathead engines if you follow their instructions to the letter, but will work if you follow their intent...typically, these flushes instruct to warm the engine up in 10 minutes, then let the engine idle for 10-30 minutes, then drain and refill engine with crankcase oil...I tried flushing annually for years, following the instructions, and noticed the drained oil would be cold, not scalding hot as warned by the flush instructions...in discussions on this site, I realized that the flathead block has so much mass that it takes a good while longer for it to warm up enough for the flush to dissolve sludge in the block passages, nooks, crannies, and sump. So all those years of flushing had little effect other than to flush my $$$ down the drain. Idling for engine warmup isn't enough; driving the truck around until the side of the block is hot to the touch is what is required, then add the flush and follow the instructions on treatment. I did this with an older non-flathead engine, and I could see the difference as the oil stayed cleaner longer in subsequent service intervals

sounds like its shorting at the distributor. There is a bakelite sleeve that insulates the small wire that passes thru the Dist. After 70 years it breaks when you look at it. I would check continuity between the coil wire and the dist case, and would guess you have a short. I fixed mine with the body of a bic pen, using the clear plastic as the insulating tube.

just what kind of steamship engine you got in there that you need 950 CFM double pumper......

You are not going to like it,but MY suggestion is to sell your all-original to someone who wants an original car to drive as is or restore,and use the money from the sale to buy a coupe with no drivetrain. Not trying to be impolite,but destroying a complete original car to create a non-original car makes about as much sense as staring into the sun. Chances are you will even make out financially if you follow my advise,plus you will have less work to do.

Per Post #37, the 7-ohm resistor is working fine with my Pertronix with semi-automaitc transmission (M-5)

Yes sir. One year, ten months, and one day. 240th Assault helicopter company @ Bearcat. You?

My car would change toe-in and toe out during the suspension travel. Once I changed to a the Cavalier rack that all went away.

Radial tire, bigger, flatter footprint. I couldn't steer my DeSoto Suburban when stopped. Very tricky to go slow but fast enough to steer. Added power steering.

Stopped or moving at a slow speed, the steering wheel is harder to turn, but driving is much easier. Tread width problem? Dunno.

I think its the radial tires that make for alot of the hard turning of the steering wheel. Thanks for the info guys.