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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2018 in all areas

  1. I have a 6V Pertronix system that has been in daily service for more than 4 years. Absolutely no issues at all. The problems I have heard of is when it is not used with a matched coil.....or if wiring used is the wrong size. Any piece of electronics is subject to failure if it is not installed properly. Having made this mod....successfully..... I would never consider going back to points. It is that good. Jeff
    2 points
  2. I spent the last couple days pulling the bed and cab off the truck. The wood on the bed has seen better days - decided to cut the bed up to make storage easier until I reach the point in that point in the build. I plan to use the steel that I salvaged from the old motor home (lumber rack and home made bumper that you can see in the first picture) to fabricate a rolling stand for the cab. I don’t have a shop so it will move in and out of the garage a lot over the next six months or so.
    2 points
  3. Cant wait. Big party. I just ordered my costume. Pair of roller skates. That is it, that is all I will be wearing. I am going as a pull toy.
    1 point
  4. Maybe time for the US borders to put it back in use! ? DJ
    1 point
  5. I agree that a distributor with single and or dual points is very reliable. All old mopars I have had in my lifetime has a distributor with points except the one I own now. The benefit of an electronic ignition is there is no points to wear out and once the timing is set you can forget it.
    1 point
  6. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ These people used to have NOS head bolts for something $7-8. They had the type you are looking for.
    1 point
  7. Well I do carry a spare module. Just have not needed it. I do the same with other items too like fuel pumps and filters....stuff that isn't on the shelves too often. Got if I need it..... but I haven't. One tip I have heard is that sometimes the module can be damaged by using old ignition switches that may have high resistance etc.... I can't say for certain but my set up is 100% reliable. To add to what Merle mentioned the inside of the distributor cap and rotor on my truck looks brand new so things stay a lot cleaner and that is good too. Jeff
    1 point
  8. I do not know of a supplier for these special bolts. However I have re-used these bolts for over 50 years with no problems. Just clean the threads and use thread sealer on them and you will be good to go.
    1 point
  9. No on the 6v you're better off sticking with points, much more reliable than Pertronix....
    1 point
  10. I wouldn't think there would be any issues, just to make sure you have the correctly threaded plugs, which would be either steel or brass, either way I'd use some neverseize or similar pipe thread compound also.....I can relate to the lack of a need of a heater...I installed one 30 yrs ago & have used it about 3 times..........lol...........andyd
    1 point
  11. I hate to say this, but auto zone $159.00 .. ordered in morning , had same afternoon.. my old carb. wouldn't idle consistently,, some weeks ran good , some weeks not so good .. accel. pump was a joke. I borrowed a smoke machine ,, throttle shaft , and warped flange. did not pass the smoke test .. i wasted time , polishing a turd. I started looking for a late model carb., like something from the 70's... found one of my old slant six carbs bolts right up, needs spacer to clear linkage. johnsartian posted a rock auto carb. fits, searched autoline C522 . auto zone carries autoline carbs .. new rebuilt carb. in my hands ,with warranty.. hated to spend the money will put old carb on shelf and fix it later ,,..
    1 point
  12. Dave........welcome aboard............where in Oz are you?...........does it have TJR stamped into the firewall?............if its RHD and NOT as recent import from Sth Africa or NZ then its more than likely assembled by TJ Richards in Adelaide who were the body builders for Chrysler in Oz............does it still have the stock mechanicals under it?...................as for it being hotrodded these guys have had to put up with me for a while now and seem to have survived.........lol.............got any more pics, details etc.............BTW I'm in Grafton, NSW north coast, just up from Coffs Harbour..........regards , Andy Douglas
    1 point
  13. Yes....Mr. Coatney incorporated several unique features in that ol blue Plymouth. You know, that car once made it from Murfreesboro, TN to Tulsa, OK (back in '07) for "The Big Race", a road race against Pete "Blueskies" Anderson from Utah or Montana (I forget which)....in conjunction with the raising of "The Buried 1957 Plymouth". I witnessed the event.....all the while trying to keep up and take pictures. That blue car was pretty fast. Don may have additional comments. Oh yes.....one time a forum member named Norm and I met Don in Murfreesboro for lunch and received a ride in old Blue to check out his handiwork. Good times. (Don, Me, Norm.....L to R)
    1 point
  14. Don C...............you funny guy!!!.........now she who must be obeyed drives car..............SHITE!!..........me no want to sit in seat now, nuthin to hold onto............me walk..............lol.........andyd...
    1 point
  15. If I were you I’d quit messing around trying to clean out the inside of the distribution tube and I’d be working on pulling it out to replace it with a new one. The purpose of it is to evenly distribute coolant flow down the length of the block, including a certain amount of coolant flow focused on the valve areas. It’s very unlikely you’ll be able to get it cleaned out by hammering a piece of steel into it, without damaging it. It tapers down at it gets towards the rear of the block. Best to focus on getting it extracted and then clean out the block passage to that a new one will slide right back in.
    1 point
  16. I think 6" would be fine, what am looking for., settle for 4" but hoping not needed to settle .... just hard when you live out in the middle of nowhere. I wish I bought a 6" bench grinder. I shopped and baught the 8", I bought a pedestal for it to sit on, that way can push it in the corner and pull it out as needed. The 8" was a total mistake, it has so much torque, I cant keep it in one position ... unless I bolt it to the floor, that negates the use of the stand to push it in the corner. When I shut it off, I think it takes a full 5 minutes for the wheels to actually stop turning. Great grinder but a little bit more then I need in a small shop.
    1 point
  17. The only way the fuel can leak out of the bowl overnight would be if the bowl had a crack or a pinhole. When running the fuel is sucked up and out by low pressure (vacuum) in the venturi or by the accelerator pump pushing it out. The old carburetors do not have a sealed bowl so fuel can evaporate but that is not likely to happen overnight unless the engine is really hot and boils the fuel. If you refilled the bowl and the car did not start then either your problem is not fuel related or the carb is dirty and fuel passages are plugged. It is possible when removing the carb top you bent the float adjustment so the float is not letting the bowl fill or as Plymouthy said you should check the fuel pump delivery, one other possibility is the float needle is stuck or clogged with dirt. I would verify there is good spark and check the engine vacuum when cranking, if that checks rebuild the carburetor. The beauty of these old cars is the simplicity that makes troubleshooting fairly easy.
    1 point
  18. Paul............ yep Tims right re the fuel pump as well..........in a general sense both the fuel pumps state of health and the carbys various issues should probably be looked at as one or both affect each other and without playing with both you can sometimes end up chasing your tail...........lol.............believe me, we all have enjoyed this experience over the years...lol.......the only hiccup I've sometimes found with trying to get new spring washers for these small machine screws or bolts is that sometimes the old spring washers are a tight, difficult to remove fit around the threads and have to be cut off with a pair of sharp snips, also the "new" washers may be hard to get in the exact size , at least here in Oz due to the mongrel "metric" size that supposedly is the same size.............ah, the joys of old cars..........lol............andyd.
    1 point
  19. as you did not open the top after the short drive you do not know for certain if the fuel bowl was truly filling up.....your constant priming the bowl would allow it to run long enough for a fuel pump that my have a small pin hole to suck a bit of air along with a little fuel when actually running. This small hole could truly prevent it from sucking the heavy fuel from the tank and through the short upturn to the pump itself. The little fuel you was getting may have been enough to sustain a run that did not include some heavy acceleration runs from stop to a continuous high speed run. As you are always having to prime, I would investigate the very delivery of fuel to the carb from the pump. Start with a fuel pump test to ensure there is gas being siphoned from the tank and that x strokes of the pump equals x amount of fuel. The manual can assist you here, approx. 15 stokes of the pump should equal between 5 to 6 ounces of fuel. If you wish to check with pressure, should be 4.5 approx. lbs and when you stop pumping should slowly lose pressure. Immediate loss of pressure says you have a leak either in the pump valve or diaphragm. Modern gas evaporates much quicker these days. Another test is to fill the bowl with cover off and visually check for seepage/leaks...if none immediately showing, fashion and place a flat cover over the bowl and let stand for a few hours and see if the fuel is there when you check it after that time. I would suspect more of a low inadequate flow into the carb over the fast speedy evaporation or seepage.
    1 point
  20. I'd be getting a carby kit and replacing all the gaskets, the accelerator pump plunger if its included and the needle and seat.........at least then you should in theory have a carby that shouldn't leak or loose fuel...........at least thats how I'd start the problem solving........also try and get new spring washers for the bolts on the carby top .........andyd
    1 point
  21. Most likely the needle and seat is leaking or float level too high and flooding the carb.... causing leaking out around the throttle plate and top seam. A sunk float could be a factor too.
    1 point
  22. Phasing and angles explained in this link.
    1 point
  23. Funny....but it is always obvious after the fact. ?
    1 point
  24. Well @Merle Coggins, I mixed up fifty fifty boiling water and Simple Green. Gave it all a soak, toothbrush scrub. A little poke in any hole I could find. Carb cleaner spray rinse and compressed air blow dry. Put it all back together. Rox fired right up and let me tell you - WOW! Runs so much better. More responsive, more power; highly recommended course of action. Thanks for the suggestions and pushing me towards the obvious.
    1 point
  25. Will these fit a P-23?
    1 point
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