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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2018 in all areas

  1. that would be referring to knowledgeable parts counter attendants...….(as Sheldon would say, bazinga punk, there isn't any)
    2 points
  2. I FINNALLY FOUND WHAT THE MYSTERIOUS HOOK ON MY DASH IS......Not yelling just excited....Lol it's the little things
    2 points
  3. Well as most know by now, I purchased Don's P15. It needs some wiring to get back on the road, and I plan on doing some interior updates and upgrades - but first things first... time to make her run! I've temporarily mounted the fuse center on the inside firewall above the clutch pedal. I can get to it, but its not readily visible unless you are looking for it. Even then.... I have something in the works to cover it up. I have the new turn signal switch mounted on the steering column. I have mostly test fit the new gauge setup that Don already had into the dash. I had to do some slight filing on the corners of the new billet piece and I had to knock off the sharp edges on the original trim piece. Hopefully that will be mounted in place tonight. I have also started tossing wires around from the new wire harness and turn signal switch - its a spaghetti mess.... but things are starting to sort themselves out into general directions and bundles. I haven't started running any wires to the back yet.... I'm going to pick up some more supplies and run at least two more wires out back to cover me for future reverse light(s) and a trunk light. Well.... there should have been more pictures, but I am having a hard time with my internet connection at the house for the last week and a half..... hopefully that gets resolved soon. Anyway, back to laying on the floor of the car. I want it running from its own switches and wires by the end of the week..... and I won't get a chance to work on it the first couple of evenings this week. Jason
    1 point
  4. Well I'm not sure about all that.... But I do want to get her up and running and on the road. Lol
    1 point
  5. ..also a good time to reverse the bottom spring plate if lowering the ride is part of the operation...
    1 point
  6. That is a very good probability. On mine, the accelerator pump passage was also blocked so the gas couldn't get to the nozzle. I had to do some extra cleaning to get it to work properly.
    1 point
  7. You can put anything in anything. I've been running a 440 RB block in my P15 sedan since 1989. I did move the firewall back a little, upgrade the brakes, change to a rack and pinion, and an 8-3/4 rear end. But I still have stock A-arm suspension..
    1 point
  8. bet you weren't this excited with the new bride.....well...maybe....
    1 point
  9. I did not ever state that it would not fit, only that it would be a retrofit if you did such.....and there is the crankshaft bolt issue...
    1 point
  10. these are my stocktons for the 1 Ton, bought them in 09, the rim is great.
    1 point
  11. I would not mess with the antiquated tranny myself...I have a 54 w/230 with an automatic and while it is nice (powerflite) I would never go out of my way to retro fit one.
    1 point
  12. Looks like it’s time to call Fatman for a set of dropped spindles.
    1 point
  13. Please don’t cut corners on brakes. My family is on the roads with you.
    1 point
  14. Isn't a 47 Dodge body the same as a P-15 body? I was considering the Newport Engineering 12 volt, with a seperate power suppy.https://newportwipers.com/product/1946-48-dodge-and-plymouth-wiper-motor-clears-stock-radio/#wiper-motor
    1 point
  15. Greg.....The edgy head is available thru the Montana boys, they have a thread on here regarding the 1933 Dodge........when I bought it it ended up costing me over $1000 Aus, as for the Offy intake they are still available, I had to get a local Oz blacksmith to weld up the exhaust as the US headers would have fouled the RHD steering box and clutch pedal......however as there are at least 3 different exhaust outlets that the plymouth/Dodge engine used I found 2 of these and cut the front & back outlet off and had the blacksmith weld the cast iron........the Carbys are Oz only GM Holden single barrel Strombergs tho I would think similar or just mopar carter/B & B carbys would work.........the water pump is actaully an Oz GM Holden one that guy that I bought the ex Sydney Airport tug 230 engine from had made that round adaptor to suit the Holden water pump...........you will never find one in the USA......stick to a normal mopar water pump.........also a suggestion is to swap in an electric fan and delete the stock fan, might gain 2 or 3 horses there...... ..those finned side plates or valve covers are from the USA, I think I got them from Patricks however I understand edgy may have been do them...........I was going to run the Langdons HEI dissy but couldn't wait so installed it into the stock 201 1941 engine....best thing I ever did for that car....instant starts and ran great..........I also installed a Speedway Motors sourced Beehive Oil Filter...............I intended to use a regrind of the tug cam done by an Oz company, Waggotts Engineering and get the engine balanced by whoever I got to machine the crank & bore the engine but that didn't happen............to be honest I suggest the HEI or some sort of ignition upgrade, the Offy intake and twin carbs, headers and low restriction exhaust and maybe 40-60 thou off the stock head wich should bump the compression up to maybe 7.5:1 or maybe a little higher..........those things should give a better bang for your buck............and save your kidney donation..........lol..................andyd
    1 point
  16. If you really want to pee him off suggest he find and attend a anger management seminar as he is a good candidate.
    1 point
  17. Ok,this one used to be my semi-daily driver until it backfired and caught fire under the hood. Luckily for me I make it a practice to carry a fire extinguisher with me,and while the fire melted the AFB carb and burned all the wires under the hood,the car didn't burn. The car was a slopped together piece of crap when I bought it,and the engine fire was the straw that broke my back on it. It has a Camaro frame clip,tired 305,and junk Turbo 250 trans that didn't start slipping until after I got it home. The frame clip was done right,but basically just tacked together. Had to put finish weld it and add a couple of re-inforcement plates. Plus the engine only had one motor mount bolted to the clip,and the trans was just sitting on two "L" shaped brackets tacked to the chassis. When I went to see why the speedo didn't work,I discovered it had never been installed in the transmission. The trans was "kept from leaking" by tan tape like painted use on chrome that was wrapped around the tailshaft several times. So I had to drill holes and bolt the tailshaft to the trans mount. Once I plugged the speedo cable in,the trans quit leaking,but it was too late. The patient was dying The wiring "harness" had red and black wires,and if there were any fuses in it,I didn't find them. I was hoping to get by while I gathered the parts for a rebuild,but no such luck. The fire was the last straw. I decided I wasn't going to touch it again until I have everthing in my possession I needed to put it back together to suit me,done right and trouble-free. The two photos are how the car looked when I bought it. It's going to have the same color paint and style when I put it back on the road. The tired 305 and junk Turbo 350 are getting replaced with a blueprinted 412 small block assembled by a NASCAR speed shop that has Keith Black flat top 10 to 1 pistons,gapless rings,hot cam,roller rockers,and 202 stainless valves in ported cast iron hi-po GM heads,and roller rockers. Also has 350 Chevy rods for a little more torque. Has a Holley 750 on it now with a medium rise Weiand intake. Also has a Pete Jackson gear drive. The trans is a modified Turbo 400 with a 2,000 stall torque converter and manual shift valve body. I used to have this combo in my 1-ton extended GM window van that I used to pull trailers,and it would almost scare me in that rig when I punched it,so it should do fine in the little P-15. I had it built to put in a 39 Ford,but the engine in my old van took a dump,so that's where it went. The third photo is of a digital instrument cluster make to fit inside the stock P-15 instrument housing. I had it custom built to my specifications I also have a new Ron Francis wiring harness for it,and all the chrome has now been done and is wrapped in paper. AFAIK,I think I now have everything I need to blow it apart and start on the body work,paint,wiring,etc,etc,etc. Everything but the time,that is. Had a local scrapper come by right after the fire when it still looked as good as it does in the photos,and the license plates were even still good,and he offered to haul it off to the crusher for me,"And I won't even charge you anything!" I rejected his kind offer. This one is a keeper that won't get sold as long as I am able to drive.
    1 point
  18. I took this old buggy "Gussie" out for a ride over to my brothers house the other day. 12 hilly miles each way.
    1 point
  19. Back on the road after about 4 months of upgrades!
    1 point
  20. Bump steer is as the words imply....."steering via bumps".....or the ideal steering senario is that the lower control arms or A arms are the same length as the steering tie rods so that the arc that the lower arms travel thru, up & down is the same as the arc that the tie rods also travel thru or vice versa........if the tie rods arc when going up & down is different to that of the A arms then the tie rods effectively get "pulled" in & out which pulls the wheels back and forth as tho the steering is changing even ever so slightly and is also felt thru the steering wheel............andyd.
    1 point
  21. You're going to want to cycle the steering once you have the idler tacked in place. The bottom joint looks to be at too sharp an angle for smooth steering. it's going to be real unpleasant driving if those joints bind at all.
    0 points
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