Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2018 in all areas

  1. I parted with one of the favorites of my extensive intake collection for this project. A pristine, polished Edmunds highrise.
    2 points
  2. Well as most know by now, I purchased Don's P15. It needs some wiring to get back on the road, and I plan on doing some interior updates and upgrades - but first things first... time to make her run! I've temporarily mounted the fuse center on the inside firewall above the clutch pedal. I can get to it, but its not readily visible unless you are looking for it. Even then.... I have something in the works to cover it up. I have the new turn signal switch mounted on the steering column. I have mostly test fit the new gauge setup that Don already had into the dash. I had to do some slight filing on the corners of the new billet piece and I had to knock off the sharp edges on the original trim piece. Hopefully that will be mounted in place tonight. I have also started tossing wires around from the new wire harness and turn signal switch - its a spaghetti mess.... but things are starting to sort themselves out into general directions and bundles. I haven't started running any wires to the back yet.... I'm going to pick up some more supplies and run at least two more wires out back to cover me for future reverse light(s) and a trunk light. Well.... there should have been more pictures, but I am having a hard time with my internet connection at the house for the last week and a half..... hopefully that gets resolved soon. Anyway, back to laying on the floor of the car. I want it running from its own switches and wires by the end of the week..... and I won't get a chance to work on it the first couple of evenings this week. Jason
    1 point
  3. I started out the show season in June by attending The Race of Gentlemen (TROG) in NJ wearing my The Gathering of the Faithful tee shirt, and yesterday I ended my show season at The Gathering of the Faithful wearing my TROG tee shirt! The Gathering draws vintage race cars and "traditional" (not "rat") rods and customs. It has been organized for nearly twenty years here in south east Massachusetts by a group of people committed to vintage speed. While there was rain in the forecast, there was still a good turn out. They lined the flatheads up along a stone wall (including my P12 and a couple other Plymouths pictured here). While we've never met, I do believe that's Member Moose's '54 Belvedere, and the P15 is a real road warrior, having made the trip out to the Syracuse Nationals a few times. In keeping with my interests, everything pictured below is MoPar powered, with the nice '34 Dodge sedan having a Mercedes Benz mill! (it was all in the family - once!). Enjoy the pics!
    1 point
  4. I am new to the forum and just got a 55 Dodge Coronet. Having just got it I don't yet know what I'm going to need yet. Can anyone tell me who might have parts as I need them? Thanks!
    1 point
  5. 6,XXX,XXX Chrysler series vehicle from 1949 were from the Los Angeles plant 7,XXX,XXX Chrysler series vehicle from 1949 were from the Detroit plant EDIT: Talking Chrysler. Not Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto
    1 point
  6. These motors are long stroke already - shortest rod piston combo is going to be more durable...oddly enough 230’s use shorter rods than 218’s because the pistons on both are the same the cranks are different stroke.. Eventually I will be building a modded 230, but for now the 218 runs really well.
    1 point
  7. Chrysler Historical Society, part of FCA has a division for tracing the history of the vehicle and providing a build card I think they also can tell you the dealer it was shipped to even if special order it had a destination listed.
    1 point
  8. his looked like it was dropped already.....from space....lol
    1 point
  9. Well, yep, that spindle support IS bent..........they are essentially the same part thru to 1948 at least but from 42 on the shock absorber pin hole is occupied by a welded in stud, the spindle can be made to use on the 1940 cars by drilling out the welded in stud..............also I suggest keeping the lower outer bush hex headed rubber seal as these are not sometimes supplied in rebuild kits....also note which way the cotter pin or dowell is installed that locks the king pin into the spindle as it is removed or tapped out from the opposite side...................he metal dust seals or caps at the top & bottom of the king pins are just small welch plugs...................and if you have problems in finding the specific 1940 upper inner pins & bushes and the 39/40 outer pins & bushes you CAN replace the whole 1940 upper A arm and inner/outer pin & bush assembly with the complete 1941-1954 assembly which are generally much easier and cheaper to find........note also that any parts listed for 7 passenger vehicles do NOT fit the normal cars as far as I am aware............regards, andyd
    1 point
  10. The good news is you found all these problems right now,and once you correct them and get your car back on the road it will drive like a new one,and your front end will be trouble-free for years. MUCH better to do this all at once while you have it apart than it is to keep pulling it apart to fix things one at a time.
    1 point
  11. Thanks! The wheels are temporary. Looking for original wheels and hubcaps for wide white wall tires. Need to find someone with a supply of used parts.
    1 point
  12. Did you install the gas filter directly in front of the carburetor? If so you may have disturbed the float shut off valve when you wrenched the fuel line that screws into the float valve. Remove the top of the carburetor and make sure the float valve is working. Use 2 of the special line wrenches pictured below to insure you do not twist the float fitting when you reassemble.
    1 point
  13. Special rod bolts on the 265 to clear the block. I talked with ARP and they said they can make them. I have not asked how much yet. I will be building a 265 over the next year or so. James.
    1 point
  14. I just realized I haven't posted any drivetrain photos. The 230 engine got buttoned up last week. This was a meticulous build and used the first of the Gen II EDGY heads I am casting. After acquiring the patterns from EDGY, I had them re-designed based on feedback I had received from previous customers, as well as our 11 years of running a Mopar flathead at Bonneville. I am also using a different foundry. so far, I'm very impressed with the density and consistency of the casting www.moparmontana.com
    1 point
  15. The Ol' brown turd is my 1940 Dodge, assembled here in Oz used an Oz body shell with Dodge grille, dash & badges with Plymouth fenders, hood, lights & bumpers....still own it after 47yrs........this is the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had from 2007 to 2013, it was a Detroit made Factory RHD Export car assembled in South Africa, imported into Oz in the 1990's, it had the Auxillary Seat Option with the folding rear seats............I sold it like a dope.............lol...............andyd
    1 point
  16. Just got it home so will post some pics tomorrow. It has an L6 with an auto trans. Overall pretty solid and complete. Thanks
    1 point
  17. I fabricated the last of the chassis boxing plates today. I'll spend the weekend cleaning up welds and splatter, have it sandblasted again for "tooth", have it painted next week, and get on with final assembly.
    1 point
  18. BTW....meant to say what a nice looking Coupe, how about some more pics, engine & interior especially if possible.........I also noticed that it has the chrome caps at the front of the running boards, I removed a pair from a wrecked straight 8 1940 Chrysler 40 yrs ago, a mate wanted the engine for spares and these caps were about the only thing worthwhile that had not rusted..........I found out that they are brass stampings, at least mine are and very few people here in Oz have seen another pair as they seem to have been a 1940 Chrysler only part, being brass they rechromed very well and set off the running boards.........andyd
    1 point
  19. I just use marine wheel bearing grease and haven't had any issues yet.
    1 point
  20. no, but the Dodge did and they are easy to adapt to the slightly smaller Plymouth. The problem with the electric wipers of that era is that they are relatively slow and mostly single speed. On my own car, I added a vacuum storage tank (57 Olds brake reservoir) which worked very well. We get a lot of rain where I am and lots of hills too.
    1 point
  21. Seems most drivers today do not know how to read or care about the lines on the road.
    1 point
  22. I spend a lot of time on the road at my job and it seems to me driving habits are getting progressively worse regardless of where you go The latest bad habit I see more and more often is the vehicle failing to get all four wheels in the other lane when passing. I don't mind sharing the road and I don't mind getting passed as long as they're not trying to use the same portion of road I am.
    1 point
  23. High reciprocating mass (pistons and upper parts of connecting rods) combined with long stroke. These conditions create high inertial forces that put strain on rod bearings. Forces at rod bearings are proportionate to square of rotational speed, so at 4,000 rpm the load on rod bearings is 4 times that at 2,000 rpm. Excessive force squeezes out oil film, leading to bearing failure. Modern engines can run at higher speeds because they use lighter pistons and rods, and because they are generally short stroke.
    1 point
  24. I have never seen any crank or block issues with these engines. Failures were usually loss of oil pressure, then anything can break.
    1 point
  25. Question is, why would you need to or want to?
    1 point
  26. mainly it is because folks afraid to rev them up cause they sound too busy,...
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use