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Check the float bowl shut off valve. It might have a little dirt that is preventing it from shutting off the flow of gas resulting in the float bowl overflowing.

I parted with one of the favorites of my extensive intake collection for this project. A pristine, polished Edmunds highrise.

Hi there, I'm not much of a forum guy but wanted to share this because I think it's going to be a really exciting project on many levels. I have been asked by a gentleman in Belgium to prepare his TJ Richards-bodied 1933 Dodge Roadster for the 2019 Peking to Paris Rally. While remaining very original in appearance, it will be powered by a meticulously prepared 230, a T5 transmission, and a more modern rear axle to dependably concur the arduous 8,000+ mile trip. Other than those three items the car will remain 100% period correct and unmodified in any way. Stay tuned, it going to be a bumpy ride, pun intended.

My opinion on using Facebook Period! I gave it up long ago and when just trying to get off it I had to jump through many of their hoops to get it done but they sent emails for months about what I would be missing.- - - NOT. I like My personal info to stay mine much more! Sorry the miss some info others post that have links to Facebook. I will just have to miss out. DJ

Here you go, hope the whole car cleans up as well as the left quarter did.

I loved the stock schoolbus wheel but I won’t need the leverage with power rack & pinion. This one is pretty small. I’m hoping it’ll free up some room in the smallish cab without looking dinky or 3/4 of the way to a tiny welded chain one like Cheech.

I second that. The gear is hour glass shaped. It is designed so that as it wears one can take up the clearance at the center and when on turns it will not bind. If it is tight on the turns then it is very likely that someone who did not know what they were doing adjusted it too tight. As an aside, tire size makes a BIG difference in steering effort. What I changed the Desoto Suburban to the Yokohama R700-15 tires it felt like I added power steering to the car. Those tires have the same contact patch as the factory tires. The other thing is thick oil grease does nothing and will actually cause wear as the grease cannot get deep into the worm bearings and races. Use factory specified lubricant. I would recommend pulling the box out. Replace the bushing on the sector (output) shaft as the are almost always worn out. Also, but in a new seal so the prescribed oil does not run out. Usually the worm gear bearings are ok, but, their pre-load is determined by paper shims on the end plate. You can get an old hand pull scale on ebay if you look around. Then follow the Service Manual, or look at the booklet on the Imperial Website (http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/028/index.htm), and set the worm gear and sector shaft as they tell you to. I suspect that a good cleaning, the work I stated above, and careful attention to detail and the thing will be good for another 100K miles. James.

Never understood why anyone would need to use these toggle system to operate their overdrive unit. When I first bought my wagon it’s overdrive unit was wired this way and I received a note showing this drawing of this wiring schematic and how this was the George Ashe method. Well I had many other projects to complete on my wagon but after driving and using the overdrive unit I thought this seems very redundant. At the core of this operation is a governor that act as a ground for the relay when you reach operation speed 35/40 mph. Once grounded the relay allows current to apply the solenoid and once you momentarily release throttle pressure you have engagement of the overdrive unit. Unless you have the manual cable in the block position. Works every time. No toggle switches or redundant wiring. I never got the need for the extra hardware. All I do is tip my toe above 35 and I’ve got overdrive. Would love for someone to explain the need for the toggle system

I fabricated the last of the chassis boxing plates today. I'll spend the weekend cleaning up welds and splatter, have it sandblasted again for "tooth", have it painted next week, and get on with final assembly.

The Scarbird kit came with aluminum hubs so there was no need for bearings spacers. The rotors were slip on style for a Ranger and GM floating calipers. The older setups let you reuse your original hub once you drilled out the rivets and threw your drums away. You could still use the stock lug bolts too.

I was always amazed how well the stock brakes worked until I had one too many oh $hit moments and off they came in favor of disc brakes. Remember, we are sharing the road the little Honda $hitboxes that stop really fast but we can do better. Drums were fine when all cars had them, times have changed and driving styles too. Biggest problem I see is it really does take the brake tool to get them right (very rare and expensive tool) so that's strike 1. Then you must arc the shoes to the drum, good luck finding someone to do that but it might just depend on your location, strike 2. Say you do actually fork out $800.00 + for the tool, find someone to arc your shoes and actually get the brakes set up correctly, they will work great but it's all down hill from there until you readjust them again. Strike 3 Any old vehicle with an unknown history should have the brakes rebuilt, for that money you could upgrade to disc brakes and have some left over for beer plus it will stop better every time, not just when the brake adjustment is top-notch. If you are building a concourse car, keep the drums and ignore everything above. Nice car BTW, enjoy it but make it safe.... Adam

I have a friend is has been a senior software engineer for both Amazon and Google. He's well thought of in the industry and has authored a number of popular books on programming. A while back he told me when it comes to collecting and selling your personal data: - Amazon is evil, but not too evil - Google is evil - Facebook is extremely evil. Never sign up for an account. So I haven't. And it's not just the info you give them. They cull info about you from all sorts of sources.

the voltage rating of any breaker or fuse is the gap that when tripped or burnt is the highest voltage that WILL NOT arc over the burn gap or open breaker contacts......

I heard the knuckleheads up near Beavercreek Oregon are the worst. ?

Huh......seems I always remember county and states by their slowest drivers...... or by how nice their Highway Patrol Officers are....lol. 48D

Yeah, I forgot about Canadian drivers in the U.S. I'd never seen anyone stop on an Interstate because they passed an exit, then drive in reverse in the traffic lanes back to the exit so they could take it - by both Ontario and Quebec plates, until I got to Michigan and New York, not "all the time", but enough times to be a bit scared of them. New Brunswick drivers here in northern Maine don't seem so bad by comparison, maybe because NB is even more rural than here. Maybe. We go to NJ on a regular basis, too. That's where the Missus hails from. Bad part about that is that when the little lady comes back from a visit, it takes a few days for her to shake off her NJ driving habits...

it has been one of the toughest skills to master when working on anything vintage or antique: effectively dealing with people. There are all kinds of people in this world, and it seems a good chunk of them find that the only way to improve themselves is to bring others down, with insults, spitefulness, marginalization...I have to be very careful whenever speaking about this old truck, as I have run into some downright bitter behavior from vendors, neighbors, relatives and coworkers alike. Spending my resources on something of value is a foreign concept to folks who prefer more, ummm, socially active behavior. I went to get a haircut one Saturday with this truck, and the barber, who noticed me wheeling up in that buggy, started talking about it when I was in the chair, and with straight razor in hand, tells me that I would be better off spending my $$$ on a new truck than wasting it on that old clunker...I most definitely agreed, kinda hard to argue with that. Coincidentally, I began cutting my own hair a few weeks later. Anyhow, the main reason I made the dry run to this tire shop was to gauge their reaction to the subject vehicle, as the wheels are a dead giveaway that I am working on a vintage vehicle of some sort. That 180° attitude change was not a first for me, however. On the disappointing ride home yesterday, I recalled running into a similar problem back in '04 with another tire store in the next county over. I found a tire store that would work on lock-ring rims, so I found some used tires and brought them the old tires to pry off the dangerous rims just to move the truck around until I got the truck running reliably and found some newer tires. About a year later, I found a pair of newer tires that they mounted with no problems; a year after that, I found another pair. When I brought the spare in to put on a newer tire, the counter guy I had dealt with each time before boldly told me that they did not work on lock-ring rims...when I reminded him that they had done the work just a few months before, he denied that, saying they never worked on any lock-ring rims, ever. I pointed to the two guys in the shop that had done the work before, and he said they did not know how to work on those rims, then asked me to leave...and I haven't been back since. When I meet folks, and they ask me what I do for fun, I mention about tinkering with things, just to keep out of jail...idle hands being the work of the devil & all. If they press me on that, I'll mention some of the mundane things I've fiddled with here & there, then carefully segue onto a different topic. I never bring this truck up until I know somebody well enough to mention it. And folks who are proud of everything they do in their life don't really understand why I don't talk about my collection. Not wanting to be the cloud in the room, I decline to explain the real reasons, but rather I give'm some dumbo reason like "ohhhh it must've slipped my mind" The trial run at the new machine shop I found last year was somewhat encouraging, as they knew how to work on flatheads...but they said they would call me back about fees (the lady running the counter was the wife of the owner who does all of the machine work), and I have not heard from them yet. They specialize in dirt track race engines and cautioned that they stay busy in the winter months, so my worry is that I bring them a flathead and they continually forget about working on it to the point where it becomes "lost"...I ain't got no time fer that