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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/12/2018 in all areas

  1. Hello all, this is my first post of hopefully many to come. I recently bought a 1940 Chrysler Windsor Coupe and one of the first projects that I am doing to make her drive better is rebuild the carburetor. As you can see from the pics below, stock carb to my knowledge which is a Carter B&B. Purchased the kit and things went pretty smooth (so far). The next project is to convert to disc brakes as the current drums are not stopping completely.... Honestly it was a little scary so going to convert to disc brakes. I recently purchased a rustyhope kit which came in the mail and pretty excited to get that started.
    2 points
  2. additional information - Lubriplate Information
    2 points
  3. With temps begining to drop the time was ripe to pull the non-functiong heater out of the truck. After disassembly the parts (except the motor and switch) were submerged into a bucket of vinegar; love that stuff. A paste made from flour, salt and vinegar was whipped up and slathered onto the core. Several days later and with a little wire brushing the parts are ready for the next sunny day and a coat of Rustoleum primer. While that is drying I'll make a trip to Home Depot to see what colors of hammertone paint they have in stock. The motor was frozen, but with a little lube and the @B1B Keven speedometer trick of drill attached to cable, I attached the heater motor shaft to the drill and after some time it freed up and now will run off the battery. Color ne optimistic?
    1 point
  4. before I pulled the jenny and dizzy, I did one more real good flush with the garden hose and flush T. I could really tell the difference on how long it was able to run at a idle. I was thinking to myself, probably put in a decent radiator and would be able to drive it. I pulled the welsh plugs and boy oh boy, what a bunch of crap I am digging out of the block, this will keep me busy for awhile getting it cleaned out. Thats fine, Now I need to shop for a radiator, curious where others have bought their radiators. Just no question in my mind at this point, if anyone in the future reads this and have a similar issue, do not hesitate to pull the freeze plugs and jump in. Next time is probably the very first place I would start.
    1 point
  5. Ya, well here she is my friends... My goals are to make her road worthy and most of all safe. I lean to more of a stock fella so no major upgrades other than some under the hood upgrades. Currently running the Flathead 6. Pretty excited overall and enjoying all the existing topics to gain some useful knowledge here. Also the wife is getting jealous of my new gal but it's okay she's starting to fall for her as well
    1 point
  6. You could drill and tap them while on the truck. But for a 5/8 fine thread bolt if I remember correctly, it would be easier to do on a drill press for a straight hole and easier to tap.
    1 point
  7. Frugal and brakes don't really go hand in hand in my mind, their the one thing you definitely don't want to tinker with...order the RustyHope break kit, then buy the new parts in the list and save yourself a lot of aggravation and look for other areas to save on costs. I will say that I agree the brake line listed in the kit isn't a great fit, but it does work, you just have to forget using the mounting bracket they come with, and cut that off.
    1 point
  8. the 46-54 Plymouth Repair Manual states on the rear lower bearing half for cars with HY-Drive Torque Convertor (not to be confused with fluid drive), use a lower bearing half that DOES NOT have the oil drain back groove or hole machined in the bearing surface.
    1 point
  9. Yes it had them from the factory. It is possible a previous owner didn't replace them with hardened seats at some point in the vehicles service life, but unlikely.
    1 point
  10. Wish I had a grandchild like yours. When my daughter needed a car, I offered to buy it for her and even help with insurance and maintenance, but under condition that it would be a stick shift. Incentive of a free car was strong enough, and she ended up in passing her driver's exam in that stick shift. She is now enthusiastic driver, and expressed gratitude to me for teaching her how to stick.
    1 point
  11. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1793 new or..... Lots of it on Ebay but watch what you buy... I bought a gallon can of it for $25.00 a couple years ago.
    1 point
  12. There's something about old cars in the fall. I've taken the D24 into town many times, with occasional waves or thumbs-up. Drove it in on a nice, clear, multi-hued, crisp day last week, and could barely get out of the Post Office parking lot for the admirers. Probably half of them were commenting on how "proper" it smelled, inside and out. I was in no hurry, so I didn't mind, but hadn't thought about the "well seasoned" aroma for a while. And it's just simply a pleasure to tool around in it with no agenda other than enjoying autumn. Thanks for continuing to share your adventures and trips with the Meadowbrook!
    1 point
  13. flame thrower exhaust I bet, think you would mount a spark plug in the tail pipe, then when you goose the throttle and flip the switch to provide power, would shoot flames out the back. Sounds like yours is not complete system but likely what it was used for.
    1 point
  14. You are welcome. This is why we all meet here in that forum. Swap experience and help each other in troubleshooting. If you summarize all the issues that happened to the folks here you probably can get an answer for every single problem ? Your description was pretty good, so lead into the right direction ...
    1 point
  15. Sorry I don'y have a cell phone. ( only person in America who doesn't have one ) Home phone is 937-335-5381. Usually home in early evening. Look forward to talking to you. ( Steve )
    1 point
  16. I had a lot of buildup in a little tilt cab diesel truck. Radiator was beyond repair, every tube was just rotten and lots of crud. Ordered a radiator and while waiting on delivery, I filled the block with white vinegar. Let it set for a couple of days, flushed and repeated. By the third iteration, it finally flushed clear. After a year or so of use the coolant is still rust free. Vinegar is a mild acid, as is molasses, a little stronger so works faster. Your muratic acid will work but the fumes will rust everything in the shop if not handled very carefully. I use it to clean metal for soldering, but do it outside because of that.
    1 point
  17. We just finished installing the Rustyhope kit on our Dodge. A couple of his part numbers didn't work for us, but the setup works great and we are happy to have discs on the truck. His parts worked great and his list was very helpful. The one thing we didn't use was the brake lines on his list. We went with some braided steel lines and an adapter from banjo to an at the frame rail from Jegs instead. Cheers RustyNCA
    1 point
  18. Not what you asked but it might fit what you want. Check out Rustyhope disk brake kit, they are cheap and consist of the mounting brackets you need to make for the calipers and some misc bolts you need. Then it provides you with the parts list and napa parts numbers of what you need to assemble everything. I have not used mine yet, but off the top of the head, think you use mopar rotors, GM calipers, combo of mopar and F150 wheel bearings ... For the price and all the headache it will save you, I say is money well spent ... and you need to be a decent fabricator to make the mounts, then the proto model then redo them to something more refined, then make something that really works .... save yourself the trouble.
    1 point
  19. Don, Gone but not forgotten... Who can forget all the fun we had putting our cars together at the same time? Especially the culmination of all that hard work and countless hours of bench racing here on the forum (seven years in fact...), THE BIG RACE in Tulsa, Ok. I only wish we could have made the BIGGER RACE, and the BIGGEST RACE happen, but it was fun to imagine getting together again after Tulsa. Something I love most about old cars is the fact that they are vehicles for friendship more than anything else. Your car will live on, creating connections for it's new owner, just as it did for you. More than anything, your P15 allowed all of us here on the forum to get to know you, your talents as a mechanic, your ability to document and describe not only your own project, but endless help with everyone else's cars, your good humor, and your kindness. Selling my Plymouth in 2010 was one of the hardest decisions ever, after putting ten years into building it. My boys both cried, and I did too when I watched the car roll away into the sunset. The car was part of our family, the boys had never known a time without it. Selling the car opened new doors though, and we've had many great projects since that we wouldn't have done if we hadn't sold the Plymouth first. I hope the new owner can keep your P15 rolling like you did, maybe with proper footwear and less tools... I'm happy to have had the privilege of meeting you through this forum, our cars, and all the years of BS. It was great fun. Pete
    1 point
  20. When I get further into it, I'll start a thread on getting the wiring done, and some other little things that I am going to do. Right now my free time has been spent just trying to map out a path to getting the wiring done and road worthy. I think I have most of the stuff scratched out on a notepad in the couple of hours I have spent. Its very obvious Don had a lot of it already mapped out and started down the path. No matter what I do though - I doubt I will ever come to the level of documentation that Don has done on this car. That is dedicated effort just by itself. BTW Don - when you read this - do you recall what wire harness fuse block kit this is? I was hoping there was a nice diagram somewhere that mapped out which fuse was which without me having to map them and write them all down.
    1 point
  21. Replacing the expansion plugs should be an automatic after all those years. You'll likely find the old ones pretty thin at the bottom to the point of failure. it won't take long to dump the coolant if one opens up. Cheap insurance plus better access to coolant passages.
    1 point
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