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I like that our experienced members have been reading my post on the situation with the amp gage. So I have read all of the posts and one of the members came up with the solution to the issue. My forst thought was that the regulator had some sticking points so I headed in that direction. The regulator is located on the driver side high on the cowl. I started to look at all of the connections and then noticed that the wire which is a 10 gauge wire that should, should be connected to the FIELD contact point was broken off and it looked as if the wire had gotten overloaded and had a burn mark onthe insulation and all the wires had been cut and the connection was lost to the regulator. I then used a brand new wire to connect the field connection onthe generator to the field contact onthe regulator. I then crossed my fingers hoping that there might not be any other issue. I started the car and then amp meter was now showing a charge and the needle was pointing at the 10-12 amp rnge becasue i had tried to drain the battery by just having th elights on for approx 20 minutes prior to making the new wire. So thanks to all that provided input to the issue. So yes check all of your connections ever so often and always check for the obvious point of loose connections or a broken wire. Hope this was a lesson that someone else might benefit from. Keep up this great forum for us mopar owners. i love reading the issues that other people are trying to slove and like it when they post how they solved the issue. This helps everyone learn more about their cars/trucks. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

And if he connects his breathing hose up to the NOS bottle he'd probably be happier too. ?

mainly it is because folks afraid to rev them up cause they sound too busy,...

Minimal sheet metal damage was easily repaired, and the grill was almost ready for primer.

While waiting for the new drive train, I decided to start stripping the paint off the front end. Chemical stripper revealed some surface rust under the paint. Cleaned up nicely with a little sanding.

Hello I'm new to the forum so this is also my intoduction. I'm Patrick. I'm the third owner of a 1936 dodge LC pickup. I bought the truck last September. The truck had been sitting since 1974. 20 years inside and 20 years outside. The truck is in "running when parked" condition so that was a real plus for me. I understand it was a daily driver that was simply parked when the owner bought a bigger truck. When I bought it the motor was stuck. I got it unstuck a year ago and got it running yesterday. I put fresh oil in it, disassembled and cleaned the carb, filed the points and checked the gap, put new plugs in it, fresh gas, new battery and with a little work it fired up yesterday. Im very pleased and excited to get it running however after running it for about 15 minutes it continues to smoke white smoke very badly. Its not the white dissipating kind. It fills up the whole neighborhood. The motor seems to purr really well but Im unsure what is causing the smoke and which direction to go from here. Any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the truck.

I have a 3" dropped axle and one leaf removed up front. Out back I have 3 leafs removed and WIllys shackles. I did roll all of my fender lips, but dont have any issues rubbing or anything. With the tires included, I have about a 6" drop up front and 4 or 5 out back. I really like it. This is the most up to date photo including the extra weight of the hemi.

additional information - Throttle Return Spring Installation

Using a wildwood M/C on my 37 Dodge, kit comes with remote reservoirs. Wilwood Disc Brakes 260.docx

nothing prevents anyone on the average of doing an assortment of modification....machined elbows of proper diameter and O-rings could easily do the job...if the machined/cast boss is of the style for threading you can do that also.....or you can just select the correct master cylinder that is already set up for building custom cars with custom brake setups...cost a tad more but the engineering is already completed and tested....the lines and reservoir kits are not that expensive...these are available to read the specs on at a number of online web sites....even a quick check to e-bay will return styles and sizes for your reading pleasure Wilwood is just one maker with a variety of bores that is a very well known name for quality. just remember that if anyone here plans to remote install a reservoir for the stock master on these cars that the vent hole in the corner of the fill nut MUST BE PLUGGED...

I'm gonna send you one of my #45 racing stickers DC.....I say stick it on the basket. 48D

The fact that the ammeter would show a discharge when power was consumed leads me to believe there is nothing wrong with the gauge or it's connections. So it must be an issue with the generator circuit not putting current back to the battery. You say that you though it may be the generator, which leads me to think it probably wasn't a generator issue. That leaves the regulator and associated wires. I'm guessing it was a simple fix once you investigated things. Possibly a loose connection at the generator or regulator. Or possibly a broken wire at one end. Either way the generator output wasn't reaching the ammeter.

The wires feeding the dash/ instrument lights should or would have been black originally I'm quite sure. High beam orange as already noted.?

Thanks - way outside my comfort zone right now. Hopefully it all comes together in the end.

That is one of those worthless Chinese replacement sockets that is supplied with some harnesses. Your right... they don't fit into the socket. Re-use your old quality socket... I've done that on several replacement wiring harness jobs.

Nice splitter Worden! I sure miss wood heat. I had a wood stove in the basement of an earlier home. We lived farther north here in Canada where -40 F or Cel, was not uncommon. There was lots of birch, pine, spruce and fir readily available for free. You jsut had to work your butt off to get it home. I was 15 years younger and could swing a maul like nobody's business. I kept about 4 chords of wood ready by easter for the upcoming fall. My wife and our two young boys would head out to the bush for a load together, often. Our house was so perfectly cozy and warm. We wore shorts and t-shirts all winter in the house. My Dad would come visit and say "Holy crap son, are you making anchors in the basement?" The only thing maybe better was the sweet smell of the seasoned wood burning. The air dead still and crisp. At dawn or dusk at -40 degrees when I was outside shovelling snow. Mmm. I can smell it now. I miss those days. Today I live in a town where wood burning appliances are banned. No new homes can be built with a wood fireplace, or stove. Older homes cannot install a wood stove. So now I get fat and lazy and pay a $200 gas bill during the cold months.

Question is, why would you need to or want to?

They will run all day at 3600 rpm. I cruise mine at 2800 which is over 70 mph. With the old gears I cruised at 3200 and never had any issues. Long stroke = high piston speeds limiting rpm Adam

that socket looks different than mine. Did you replace them when you did the new wiring? My socket goes inside the high beam light and its a tight fit. You can just see it at the top and a better view of the socket

Dunno if this is any help but on my 1940 Dodge the high beam indicator "thing" is inserted from the front then thru a pressed metal bracket extension from the instrument cluster which the front thing is held tight to by a metal light socket or "tube" that has a threaded end which is screwed onto this thing trapping the instrument cluster bracket and both holding the thing and the cluster tight against the dash .........the light socket with the globe is then inserted or pushed into the open end of the light socket or tube and is held in place by clips that hold it tight inside the tube..............BTW if your high beam indicator is missing its coloured piece of plastic a replacement can be sourced from a model car builder.........AMT/Revell/etc red plastic tailight sprues are a good source of this plastic or a common toothbrush handle can offer red and other colours if wanted, just need to cut it down to size...........................I can't confirm whether the socket shown is correct for your P15 but it looks to be the right type of socket, tho' the one on my 1940 D15 has more "curved" sides............BTW, nice looking dash ............regards from Oz.......andyd

Picked up a brand new Brave wood splitter last week. It's a 30-ton model. It will split wood in the vertical position as well. Honda engine. Now I don't have to swing the axe anymore. Towed it home with the EcoDiesel.

Here's his manifold, still working on the linkage.

Torque! Vehicles had to climb hills which were knee deep in snow or ankle deep in mud. Very little of rural America had graveled roads let alone paved ones. It all boiled down to power at slow speeds. Few drove more than 40 miles in one direction. Because steam engines required water and coal every six or eight miles, few lived more than 15 miles from the grocery store, gas station or Doctor. I grew up on the edge of the great sand hills of Nebraska. We were at the end of the road. East and south of us were thousands of acres of grass land. I never knew a neighbor to the east or south. So the answer is torque!

Think it is in the 4200-4400 pound range. I had to get my B1 weighted when I transferred an out of state title to California and I had it weighted on a certified truck scale.

My new ride.

Looking forward to seeing it at the Clements bbq in April!

Had a buddy in high school and we took his 48 Buick straight 8 and used the heat riser tube that ran into the exhaust manifold and ran a line from a can inside the car with a pitcock and filled the can with kerosene and we’d sit at a traffic light and turn the pitcock and that car would fill the intersection with so much smoke. Looked like john candy’s car in “uncle buck”. No fouled plugs only comments from people that our car needed work badly. Still laugh about all the people we freaked out

The nice thing about being laid up is that I had nothing but time to do research. I watched a number of You Tube videos on stainless trim repair, and figured I would give it a shot. A couple of small hammers, make shift anvils and dollies, and I had all of the dents and deep scratches smoothed out. A very tedious process, but then again nothing but time. Below are my first results. Very happy with these results.

Where is your overflow located? If it's on the radiator expansion tank or below the cap to rediator gasket on the filler neck it's an unpressurized system and it won't matter what cap you put on as the system can't build pressure. With a nearly 70 year old core and heater core, I wouldn't go pressurized any way.

Is that a Met converted to a tree spade? ?

Latest update - I posted in an overhat thread but thought I should post here the milestone of achieving taking my truck the the destination I targeted a couple years ago. I headed out to the NSRA show Saturday and Ol blue boiled over half way there..... I'm not finished but I got it running on time to get it to this show at the local fairgrounds where there were a ton of really cool old cars and trucks. So, half way meant decision - home to work on it or short stints with a wait....I drove a little, boiled a bit and waited a couple times but limped it into the show. It was on my bucket list and is a milestone in the life of ol Blue. My son Jake and I started the project when he was around 10....he's 19 now and we still had a ball limping to and from the show... So we made it to the show, met some nice folks, and from our multiple tours around the fairgrounds...appeared that ol Blue was the only Pilot house - representing our rigs ? ... Proud moment to have so many people looking at my truck and commenting on how cool it was that it was all original +ground and flathead mostly still getting it done. Once I get the overheat figured out I'll certainly get back on the road.

I must really be getting old as I have never heard of all these car type TV shows mentioned here. I gave up on TV about 6-7 years ago. I actually find it insulting to the average person's intelligence. I get frustrated and shut it off. The constant barrage of commercials and marketing hype drives me nuts. News? Crap. They skim the highs and rarely follow up with what actually happened. Nor later when the truth was revealed. That's all boring stuff it seems. On to more "oil in the fire" type news! I think the last so called "reality show" I watched was Survivor Australia. When was that 2001? My wife and I were wound up in it. I was 30 then. Maybe it appeals to young people? Yes I suppose these reality shows do. They must appeal to someone. I don't get it but whatever. We used to have, and pay for all the shows and channels that rarely we ever had time to watch. So in Dec 2017 we cut off all paid TV subscriptions. Today we just have internet. We watch some Netflix movies when we have time. Maybe 1 movie every two weeks or so. Less in the summer. So now I have no idea what is "in style" or insanely popular. Not a clue. I pay $10 a month for Spotify and get all the music I can handle, commercial free. I have no clue what the biggest song hits are all over the world until usually 6-10 months after they peaked I estimate. I laughed when we were in Mexico with friends last Feb. A song came on some speakers somewhere. We could hear it over game of cards and drinks, we were enjoying at our resort. My friends started singing along and I could tell they were quite enjoying the song. I was kind of surprised because to me it just sounded like local Mexico radio. A song in Spanish language with their signature beat. My friends laughed at me when I asked how they knew this song. "It's Desposito" they raved. "Never heard of it", I said. They were shocked. I retorted, "Where am I supposed to hear this?" They said "its playing everywhere! Check out You Tube." I did and saw about 30 million plays. I laughed to myself and thought, "It's working!" I am systematically removing myself from mass marketing pop culture. I don't listen to radio stations. I don't have cable TV. I can't remember the last time I read and comprehended an advertisement on the internet. I have no problem blocking internet ads it seems. I do with my time, what interests me. Not what "everyone else" is doing. It just so happens I love flat head 6 Mopar vintage cars and trucks. It seems "pop culture" has little interest in old Mopars. Fine with me. This web site provides me with entertainment that I want to see, and can control. I do not at all miss TV. Superbowl? Stanley cup? Nascar? World Series? Enjoy as you please. It seems I have little time or interest for any of it. I'm not quite sure why or how I got this way...Crotchety I guess. LOL.

Disassemble, inspect, and replace any questionable parts with new/rebuilt units. I also recommend replacing the brake lines if they are still original. They could be rotting from the inside out. Don't skimp on the brake system. They can save your life some day. Merle

Every time you dump oil into the cylinders it will end up in the exhaust system. Sometimes it can take a good heat cycle to burn it all out. That would probably require more than a half hour of idling. A half hour driving under load may be enough, if it's driveable.

Here are some more pictures of the truck. Sorry about the so-so lighting. I also have the hood which is in nice shape. The truck is 100% complete minus the spare wheel. My plans with the truck are to keep it original and get it into daily-driver shape. I plan to scotchbrite the body smooth, put a lot of turtle wax on it and drive it as is. I also threw around the idea of giving it a slight rake suspension-wise for a more commanding stance. But thats another thread and another day.