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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/2018 in all areas

  1. Hello from new subscriber! I am in Utah, USA and have the enjoyable task of working on the family classic Chrysler. I believe it is US model 60, a four door sedan with a 6 cylinder engine, that has been in my wife's family for more than 50 years.. The car was driven perhaps 5 or 6 years ago, before leaving the family farm barn, and coming to its new home in our garage. Since then we have replaced the carburetor and rebuilt the radiator. Sometime before it became ours, someone attempted to repair or replace the water pump, and somehow the radiator fan was lost. We have a four bolt water pump that seems to fit, now we just need to find the appropriate fan! Does anyone have a suggestion as to where we could find an original or replacement fan? Would it be helpful if I posted additional photos, of the motor and fan? Thanks in advance for any help! Allred
    2 points
  2. Yes you could and I have done so on my Chrysler cars. Just hook the after market Shift- Rite wire to the carb KD switch existing wire Push on the shift knob button or floor the pedal to KD the trans. There was another after market KD kit that is really rare..it lets you pull back on the shift lever a 1/4" and the trans will kick down. Drive it like a 3 or 4 speed tans. I now use that system so I can keep the factory shift knobs on my cars. Basically the aftermarket shift knobs where kinda made to look like the factory knobs...the picture shows.1946-48 Chrysler 1949-50 Chrysler 1951-52 Chrysler 1953-54 Chrysler
    2 points
  3. Keep us updated and post plenty of pics. As for the ride, mine rode like a stiff old tractor. Now it’s a fairly smooth ride. I also got a little more smoothness and drop in ride height from the weight of the Hemi. Depending on how low you drop the front, as PT81 stated watch your steering arms. When you drop an axle like I did, you have to make sure the drag link stays level or you can get bump steer. So watch the closeness and angles. I had to bend on of my arms down 3” to get it all back to stock angles. I also did the spring shackle flip in the back at one time. I preferred the spring leaf reduction method better for the smoother ride. Another thing that will get you lower is spring shackles. Not sure if your older truck is like the B or C series. But a Willy’s shackle bolts right up and gives you another inch or so. They are a whopping $10 each from Rockauto Veraus $40 a piece for Dodge shackles. I did forget to mention that I have them in the back of my truck along with the missing leafs.
    2 points
  4. Sid's 3'' dropped axle, Rusty Hope disc brakes reversed spring eyes removed 2nd to shortest leaf up front. Rear; Jeep shackle flipped, removed 2nd and 3rd shortest leaves, raised forward rear spring mount and Cherokee 3:55. 28'' tire front 30'' tire rear, lower about 6'' from stock.
    1 point
  5. Hi all, sorry we were gone! Like Greg G wrote, our engine build is online. The chassis job is not (it's a race...). But the work on the body, the assembling, and other information is on: https://www.facebook.com/BelgianDodgeBrothers
    1 point
  6. There is a weep hole in the pump. when there is a problem with the diaphragm it will leak at the weep hole as well as allow fuel to pass beyond the cam lever into the crankcase. Edit: add photo
    1 point
  7. I've had my car since 1971.......I made the hinge mirror shown using some metal strap and steel rod and I welded the end from a cheap mirror I found onto the steel rod then had it chromed........still works fine.............andyd
    1 point
  8. All the accessory brackets are sandblasted, painted, and installed. The motor is finally off the stand and mated to the transmission. Maybe tomorrow I’ll have time to try a first stab into the chassis.
    1 point
  9. Looking again- awesome job that is a clean set up!
    1 point
  10. The Buick lifter diameter is just under 1.00" The engine is OHV...
    1 point
  11. I cut off all of mine. Once apart, I numbered them to keep them to together. Your springs show much more rust than mine did. Sure brings back memories. The teflon strips are only on the end of the leafs, if I remember right. A huge task. My best to you. NUMBERED...what part of progressive lengths tripped you up....
    1 point
  12. On a recent trip to the local salvage yard, I met an attractive young woman while encouraging my son to keep trying as he struggled with the '48 radio removal. Her husband was off in search of old Chevy pickups so she hung with us and we had a nice chat. A short time later her husband showed up and took note of my son's struggle with the radio, grabbed a wrench and leaned in to lend a hand. Out comes the radio. This guy and I get to talking about our war service of all things and end up exchanging phone numbers. A couple days later I get a text invite from the guy to meet at a new restaurant in town for beer and burgers. He graciously chose "The Red Truck", the newest Fort Collins brewpub. The place was packed! My wife had me get in the beer line while she held down an open table. The six of us (they brought two of their three kids and one in the oven) had a chatty meal and I knew I had made a new friend. Yesterday morning, when my son Zac arrived for another run to the junkyard, I mentioned how his mom and I had dinner with the couple we had met a week earlier in the junkyard. He was dumbfounded. I asked him about his friends and when was the last time he had made a new one. I have a few good friends, most spread around the country from California to Wisconsin. I haven't met any new "real" friends in years. The moral of the story and point I wanted to impress upon my son was to not pass up on your opportunities nor rush to judgement and junkyard can offer more than car parts? My wife Jan with her good friend Barb
    1 point
  13. I removed one leaf on each rack. I DA sanded each remaining the coated them with silicone before reassembling. It lowered the truck 2" front and rear. The center of gravity changed so it does not drive top heavy. With radial, 15" rims, i think it looks much better. Nothing was impacted. I have smaller tires up front for a nearly unperceptable rake. Be be prepared for a lot of work.
    1 point
  14. Hey Don I did tell what fixed the problem in my post # 33. I guessed you missed it but you were the one that nailed it on the head. There was the metal spring still in the points box and when I installed it the car ran fine at 60 mph and above. Thanks
    1 point
  15. Only five miles down the road to the GoodGuys show and since the rust and coat hanger were doing such a great job of holding my shock absorber on for the time being I drove on over and signed Roxanne and myself up. This made our second car show together - I don't think she'll want to do another. Rox is used to getting more attention. She just wasn't pretty enough for this one ?? The '78, and '49 Ferd trucks close by had twice the gawkers and the Bricklin had double and triple that at times. Must have been those gull wing doors. Big show with a dizzying array of vehicles and more. It took a couple hours to cruise through the cars, vendors and swap meet. Their mini race track was as amazin' as the carmel corn. Some skilled drivers putting on a show for bragging rights driving all kinds of muscle, sport, street and custom machines. Thar warn't a whole lotta Dodgin' going on... I saw maybe four altogether. This Power Wagon would have been cool (in my book) had it not been for the giant V-8 race engine stuffed under the hood. There was a Coronet convertible that was stellar and a Plymouth truck that was eye candy (but seriously, leather bucket seats?) I will definitely go again, but will likely leave Rox Baby at home, at least until she gets painted up a bit better - uh, if that ever happens. I didn't go crazy with the camera but here are a few more random shots. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PQeW3vcbJCMMBfPz8
    1 point
  16. Update Its been a week now and I’ve put just over 200 miles on it. I live in a very hilly part of the Bay Area and I took it on a 20 minute drive up and down some steep, narrow roads. Temps were in the high 80’s and these were 1st gear roads but I wanted to test the cooling system and for any kind of vapor lock. I’m pleased to say it stayed between 175-185 and never missed a beat, the fan did run most of the time. I really appreciated the fluid drive doing this test, it worked perfectly. I stated earlier I was changing rear tires from 235/75/15 to 235/60/15 and loosing 3 inches in diameter to help compensate for the tall 3.0 rear gears. They look good in the fenders and fit perfectly with no rubbing, see earlier pictures. Thanks to Pflaming I now have a fast second that I might install this winter but it’s fine with the fluid drive second. On the highway it cruises effortlessly at 70 taching about 2800 rpm. Climbs the 7% hills our freeways have at any speed between 55-75 in high gear without too much fuss. I really like the gears now! I know in the back of my mind I should upgrade to a dual master cylinder but it stops so well with a very light pedal, I don’t want to mess with it. Things to do I want to align it. Probably in the next week or three. No issues but I’ve never had it checked. Steering is light and it tracks super well, one finger driving. Clean overspray from windshield. Somehow the clear oversprayed and stuck to the windshield. Probably when I had to respray the trunk. Found that when the sun was low. Maybe shock relocation For now, keep driving. Adam
    1 point
  17. Well guys I have finally gotten to look at the Plymouth tonight after getting the wife all settled in. She came home yesterday and seems to be doing okay just hurting a lot and taking some pain pills for release of pain. What a crazy weekend and week this has been. Now to the Plymouth. I think we have a winner with Don"s commit on the points bouncing. I took the distributor out once more and also the points. It's much easier for me that way if I take it out. I look in the box the points came in and there was another clip spring in the box. I connected it to the points behind the copper tab and put back together. Started the car making sure the timing was at TDC once again. Stepped inside went through all the gears all the way up to 60 mph and no spit, spud-er, and no backfire at all. The car ran just fine up on the jack stands now when I get the R10 wired up and get it back on the ground we'll see if I get the same results as tonight. I know a lot of you don't like a 12 volt conversion done on these old 6 volt cars but I tell you I am very pleased with how easy the car starts now. I am amassed it seems it starts in less than one revolution of the engine. Anyway I appreciate all the replies and all the help as always. Thanks, Larry
    1 point
  18. Are your points floating due to the heavy metal spring not installed or installed incorrectly? When you say everything in the distributor is 12 volts what are you referring to? On 12 volt cars the points and coil still run on 6 volts using an internal or external resistor on the coil.
    1 point
  19. New wheels and tires installed. I think I'm finished for now, time to add some miles to it.... Adam
    1 point
  20. Why cut up a perfectly good car. If you want faster, sell it and buy something different. When you buy a '33 you know going slow is the nature of the beast. Just my thoughts but your car. M
    1 point
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