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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/12/2018 in all areas

  1. Late update, but we made it to and through the area August 30. A very enjoyable drive although too much washboard on the Hurley Pass for my liking. Sadly, the Bralorne Museum was closed the day we were there. Photos below are on the road to Minto, that once-flooded community where we were besieged by three families worth of adolescents, on the Hurley south to Pemberton, and after dark into Vancover. No car trouble to speak of, although we did char the floorboards near the exhaust manifold on a couple long hard climbs. Only regret was planned meetups with Keithb7 in Kamloops and bach4660 in Surrey both fell through — because we were too early for Keith and too late for Bach.
    4 points
  2. I just wanted to pop in and say hello and thank you for allowing me to join what seems to be a very knowledgeable forum. I've been lurking around for a bit and there's a ton of valuable info here. I recently inherited my late father's 49 DeSoto Custom (S13-2) Four Door. I purchased it for him about 25 years ago because his favorite brother had one after the war (the one in my profile picture). My grandfather and uncles were all Chrysler men for many years. I'm a going to be looking towards this forum as I am going to have a few questions once i get the car out of storage from my father's garage to get it back on the road again. It hasn't run in about 4 years or so but I don't think it will be a hard start as it only has approximately 30,000 original miles and was well cared for until my father could no longer drive it. .....Once again, Thank You, Don
    2 points
  3. I used allis chalmers orange spray paint from tractor supply.
    2 points
  4. There is a video on youtube I think you would enjoy. It is a 61 Valiant stationwagon with a slant6 squaring off at a drag strip against one of the new Dodge Chrargers that are rated at around 700 HP. The Valiant eats him alive. Both are painted the same shade of green. I think there is something wrong with the Valiant,though. It doesn't want to idle very smoothly. Who knows how fast it would be if he tuned it up and got rid of the rough idle?
    2 points
  5. This is the tool box I carry.
    2 points
  6. Hello group - Thought I would post some pictures of a project I've been working on with my 49 Dodge. Looking at some old spare parts I had hanging around the garage and decided to make use of some of them. Initially I was planning to make some headers for my 230 using an old set of SB Chevy Sanderson headers I've had for a while. Then I decided to make a header / intake combo with a Rochester 2bbl I had lying around. As all projects seem to go I decided multiple carbs was the way to go for better fuel distribution. Thinking through this further, I wanted to use Tom Langdon's Weber 32's as my carbs of choice. Hopefully I can share (remember) all the things I did correctly, pitfalls I encountered, and mistakes I made (there were a few). First was to cut a plate to act as a flange, I chose 3/8" steel. Note: Purchase a good holesaw for this and use a drill press.
    1 point
  7. Good news on the tire... I was out in the garage after work today and decided to pull out the piece and see if it would leak. I figured I could plug it right away if it did. It was just a short screw tip that probably came from my own garage from a project earlier this summer. It was only in the tread and didn’t compromise the carcass. Also, the crack or cut that was noticed in the photo above is just a small flap of rubber left from the mold. Nothing to worry about there either.
    1 point
  8. Its an electric down shift ,called a shift-rite ,i have one in a box somewhere which i have never got round to fitting.
    1 point
  9. A member here saw a picture of my truck some months ago and asked me (PM) how I did the lowering: "...Was wondering what your suspension set up was. Looks really nice without being crazy low ..." Here the description: Rear: Just turned the shackles from the bottom up. Had to cut out the lateral sheet metal paneling under the bed a bit (marked green) to provide space when the shackles moves. Important: the positions of the axles leaf spring perches have to be altered to correct the propeller shaft angle ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (the shortest ones). This btw led to a better road performance. Before it was too hard for my taste (I seldom carry heavy loads). Front: This was a bit more tricky. I separated the leaf spring package and turned the longest leaf spring by 180° and put everything back together. Result is that the position of the spring`s eyelet in relation to the spring`s axle mounting point lowers the suspension. Lets say by 1½“. The single springs have got a curved shape when relaxed. So once that with the eyelet has been turned and put back together to a package it provides an additional lowering by approx.1½ “. Reason is the opposite curves. Technically it maybe is not quite a perfect engineered solution. I indeed was a bit worried, because the single preloaded springs work against each other. But it works well since 4 years now ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (also the shortes ones). Provides another ½“. Ah, to separate the springs it is necessary to open the metal clamps. Therefor they have to be heated with a torch ! And I fabricated two additional clamps to keep the (opposite curved) springs properly together. Note: watch out that the steering levers do not touch each other ! They are getting closer as a result. No special parts needed, zero costs (except gas for the torch and grease for the springs) and less effort than it sounds. Pictures here -> PT_suspension.pdf
    1 point
  10. I had a worked /6 head along with headers and a two barrel holley that destroyed a bunch of junkyard shortblocks revving all over town through a ford 7.5” rear with 3.73 gears. It was a lot of fun and when I bought the hotrod top end it was still installed in an early dart which was stripped to a shell- not even glass in it. That car must have weighed like 1800 lbs! The guy let me rip around his (rural) neighborhood in it banging pushbutton gears and sitting on a milk crate. It was a rocketship. I also had a stock 225 with an aluminum case OD 4 speed. You had to wait for a huge gap to merge if an on ramp had a stop sign but that 1987 D150 ran amazing filled to the brim with gravel!
    1 point
  11. You can use a C clamp on either side of the bolt to keep the springs together and just cut the bolt head off. I would start by pulling the second from the bottom leaf and see how that works for you. If you need more, pull another. Just keep an eye on your bump stop clearance and oil pan clearance. Generally when removing leafs, you start at the second from the bottom and remove every other one until satisfied. I have new springs all around and here is what I did. I did a Sids 3" drop front axle (which I know you were not interested in), and then removed the second from the bottom spring. In the back I went from 7 leaves to 3 or 4 if memory serves. I have about 6" drop all around.
    1 point
  12. I assume your Chrysler is fluid drive equipped. With a non working emergency brake your car will roll down even the smallest of inclines even with the transmission in gear and the engine turned off. Suggest you repair the emergency brake first.
    1 point
  13. I removed one leaf on each rack. I DA sanded each remaining the coated them with silicone before reassembling. It lowered the truck 2" front and rear. The center of gravity changed so it does not drive top heavy. With radial, 15" rims, i think it looks much better. Nothing was impacted. I have smaller tires up front for a nearly unperceptable rake. Be be prepared for a lot of work.
    1 point
  14. If its a pre 1950 flywheel cover, you may not have the ebrake mount on the cover. Estrada Motorsports 1947-53 Dodge Trucks: Emergency Brake (video #3) 48D
    1 point
  15. How about a vintage soda cooler?
    1 point
  16. How come the brake cable wasn't installed in the bracket on the flywheel dust cover?
    1 point
  17. I removed doors from a donor car ('37 P4 4 door sedan) a while ago, by unscrewing hinges from the body. Each hinge is attached to body by 4 Philips screws. These screws go into 1/4 thick rectangular plate with 4 threaded holes. This plate is floating - after the screws are removed, the plate can be taken out from the other side. This arrangement allows for door adjustment. I tried to remove hinge pin by knocking on it from below, but the pin didn't move, so I left it alone. I did not remove hinges from the doors. Do not attempt removing hinges with hand screwdriver - you will gouge the screws. Impact driver with a sturdy Philips bit is necessary. Also, a lot of PB Blaster and heating with a propane torch. 13 screws yielded and 3 broke off. My car is in my country house. Hopefully, I am going there this weekend and will take a few pictures.
    1 point
  18. It is Valspar 2009-7 Fire Orange.
    1 point
  19. I got to admit when I first saw the tire I was looking at the split and did not pick up on the nail looking object...
    1 point
  20. Here is the one I built for my truck a few years ago. Gets used all the time. Jeff
    1 point
  21. LOCAL MAN THROWN INTO PATH OF ONCOMING BUSS, HAD STRANGE SHAPED METAL OBJECT IN HAND....DETAILS AT 11:00
    1 point
  22. Place it on an old tire. That cushions the ride and it won't slide around. I stil tie an engine four ways. Should you have an accident, you don't want that coming at you at 60 mph! JMHO
    1 point
  23. One small note ... there is no pressure fed oil to the lifters and tappet bores on the 23 and 25" engines. The lifters/bores are lubed by the connecting rod squirt holes.?
    1 point
  24. Thank you for the compliment. Seems I like to wallow in a mess when I'm busy but then I do marathon garage cleanings. The Maroon coupe is a 47 Ford The Orange sedan in the background of my earlier pictures is a 35 Ford Slant. Adam The 35: The 47:
    1 point
  25. Hello All, I edited my title so I can keep the same thread going. That said, the previous owner decided to epoxy prime the car black before he put it up for sale about 7 years or so ago. Needless to say I was tired of driving a fading, chalking, primered car after the first year but I pressed on. Also driving a black car gets kinda hot in the summer. In my previous post I was working on getting pops to paint it as I am not a good painter He wasn't too thrilled about the idea so we made a deal, I would wet sand all the old primer off and he would paint the roof and satin clear the entire car. I thought that was the cat's meow until I started wet sanding and wet sanding and wet sanding, you get the idea. After about 40 hours of wet sanding I found a decent older repaint with some obvious red oxide primered spots and some rust under the tail lights I needed to fix. What it used to look like: After A LOT of wet sanding: Bumper aprons were a lost cause with no origional paint to be found, also I had to find a similar green to cover the rust repair below the tailights. Rustoleum hunter green was pretty close so I shot the bumper aprons and the rust repair with that over some red oxide primer. Not a perfect match but it looks like an older grandpa repair.... Used Rustoleum Almond for the roof: Spent the money for a good 2 part automotive Urethane clear since this car never sees a garage and rarely even sees a driveway. A red oxide pin stripe to between the 2 colors to tie it all together? Finished product: I intend to paint the wheels either red oxide color or almond. Jury is still out but opinions welcome! Adam
    1 point
  26. Thanks Keith for the additional info and photos. Gold Bridge/Bralorne and the Hurley Pass sounds like a great diversion on our way south. We should be good for the grades — added hydraulic front brakes three years ago and a period auxiliary 3-speed under/overdrive transmission in 2016. The underdrive is big at 50% so up or down the steep ones is no problem and 25% overdrive enables comfortable 50 mph cruising. We'll be in touch about getting together for coffee in Kamloops, probably Wed Aug 29 on our way to Lillooet for the night. Thursday night in somewhere in Washington state then Friday in Wilsonville, Oregon — we do about 300-350 miles/day. This trip will be a big loop, likely returning via Montana. Please send me a PM with your contact info for next month. Thanks.
    1 point
  27. @bamfordsgarageThis is wonderful. Then surely you will take the Hurley Pass! Low gears and good breaks are required though. Especially as you drop back down into Pemberton Meadows. If you look at Google Earth and find Bralorne and Goldbridge you can see the valley and the Hurley Pass road. It runs aside Mount Dix, Grouty Peak and Face Mtn. Follow the valley SW and end up in Pemberton Meadows. If you fall in love and swing back home through the area again, be sure to research what locals call the "Power Line Road" from D'arcy to Seton Portage. This is another breath taking pass that is not for the faint of heart. You guys look and sound like you are up for it. After Seton Portage you wind back up the mountain to end up at the east end of Carpenter Lake again. Here is a good layout of the Powerline Road I mentioned, and the surroundings. The road is along the left side of Anderson lake in this image. Compliments of Google Earth. Let us know if you make it. You'll be passing through Kamloops. Let me know when. Perhaps we can have a Tim's and I can check out your Speedster! - K Here is a view of the Hurley Pass road as you leave Gold Bridge, heading toward Pemberton Meadows:
    1 point
  28. Thanks Keith, that's very helpful. Yes, we'll be in the Speedster -- we are drawn to bad roads like flies to an outhouse. These photos are from last Labour Day weekend when we did 600+ miles of gravel from Whitecourt to the Crowsnest (eastern slopes of the Rockies)
    1 point
  29. Thanks for posting this — very timely, as we expect to be speedstering through the area in late August on our way to Oregon and it will be an interesting stop. Can you tell me whereabouts the artifacts are based on the map below? Thanks.
    1 point
  30. Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement! Big difference down low! It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 2000 rpm and punch it: good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. Adam
    1 point
  31. Btw, I have done zero tuning, the way it ran was out of the box. Throttle response was much better than stock even in its poor state of tune. Started and idled at about 300 rpm without lifting a screwdriver to it.
    1 point
  32. Don't forget to blend the intake holes on the flange to the runners. Wasn't sure how to cap the ends of the log part of the intake but I was sure I didn't want to just put flat plates on. Found front wheel bearing caps for a Volare fit nicely and add a little rounded touch to the project. Also added a hot water tube to the outside of the intake to keep it warm. Here is the 5th or so test fit after I painted it. You can see the choke hitting the heater box I also ordered Langdon's air cleaners and throttle linkage but do to me placing the carbs too close together they didn't fit, another mistake but after thinking it through I cut and welded the tops together and finish painted them the hammertone silver I painted the engine. The intake is painted a darker cast iron hammertone along with the breather tube for some contrast. The ugly heater valve is next. Added a new fuel line Next is the manifold and heater hose plumbing. Also, my PCV modification... Removing this spring is a must or you will have a super stiff throttle. I lifted this image from the net.. Finally installed with the throttle linkage, pedal feels nice and smooth. The red thing in my rear heater hose connection is my cooling fan switch. I ordered some hoses from NAPA and had to leave it here while I travel for work the next 2 weeks. Hopefully be running by the end of the year...
    1 point
  33. Intake time.... Couple of dilemmas here, my 49 has a heater box hanging on the firewall and I wanted to center the 2 carbs between the 3 intake ports as best as I could. Some careful measuring here but I did make a couple of boo boo's. First, I underestimated how bulky these Weber carbs were going to be so I goofed a little on the spacing. Second I mis-measured on the back carb and got too close to the heater box. The results were choke removal on both carbs to fit. Oh well, I live in CA so it will be fine... What to use for intake runners? I didn't want to use standard bends but I wanted a gradual bend from the intake log to the port, off to Home Depot I go. I found 90 degree bends in the EMT section that will fit the bill perfectly. Now to clear the heater box, remain symmetrical and be able to center the carbs between the ports I had to lean the outer intake runners toward the middle a little Adding the horizontal part of the intake Risers for the Weber carbs
    1 point
  34. I chose to finish the headers with a hand file. My OCD is showing... I didn't like the caps I welded over the removed 4th exhaust tubes so I made some covers. Warpage can be a problem so I had to bend it back a little. (pitfall)
    1 point
  35. chair...in a shop...blasphemy....how you expect to get anything accomplished......
    1 point
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