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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/05/2018 in all areas

  1. Disclaimer: The information contained herein in intended solely for the personal, non-commercial use of the reader who accepts full responsibility for its use. The information and/or data contained herein is provided on an “as is” basis, with no guarantees expressed or implied regarding the completeness, accuracy, usefulness, or timeliness. Every precaution has been taken to ensure that the content herein is as accurate, and complete, as possible. In the event that any of the information and/or data presented herein conflicts with any cited references, the information from the cited references, as interpreted herein, shall take precedence. Further, the author accepts NO responsibility for any injury or death that may be resultant due to the practice of repairing, or attempting to repair, by any procedure, of any instrument containing diethyl ether. Diethyl ether’s a lower ether. It’s an organic compound that’s a colorless, tasteless, highly volatile flammable liquid (when under 93.9oF), or gas (when over 93.9oF), with a slight sweet smell. Ether molecules can’t form hydrogen bonds with one another, resulting in relatively low boiling points. It was formerly used as an anesthetic, until non-flammable drugs, such as halothane, were developed. It’s also very harmful to human skin, burning it in a very short time period. Its current usage’s primarily industrial as a solvent, and automotive as a starting aid for engines. Diethyl ether’s a relatively stable chemical compound which doesn’t react with active metals, dilute acids, oxidizing agents, or reducing agents. Its vapor’s heavier than air, can collect at low points on or near the floor, and can travel significant distances reaching sources of combustion which don’t have to be an open flame. Potential sources of ignition of diethyl ether vapor can be a heater, oven or stove, etc. In its gaseous state, it can also be ignited by simple static electricity, such as generated when walking across carpets made of certain fibers, or by simply pouring liquid diethyl ether from one container to another. It’s extremely sensitive to light and air, and will decompose quickly in such an environment, forming explosive peroxides when exposed to light and air. These peroxides don’t need an open flame to combust, significant heat could cause it to explode violently. The spontaneous combustion temperature of liquid diethyl ether’s 320oF. Diethyl ether, in addition to its anesthetic properties, also has an intoxicating effect, which has made it a popular recreational inhalant drug, in the same class as toluene, acetone, and it’s a key ingredient used to make cocaine, and meth-amphetamine. A significant disadvantage of diethyl ether’s its extreme volatility, especially in the presence of oxygen. About the only advantage of diethyl ether as opposed to the other recreational inhalants mentioned herein is the well defined margin that exists between its therapeutic dosage, and its toxic dosage. This means that a person inhaling diethyl ether would lose consciousness before the levels of dissolved diethyl ether in the blood reached dangerous levels could be realized. Along with burning of the skin, it also causes significant irritation to the respiratory mucosa, and it’s therefore rather uncomfortable to breath. In an overdosed condition, any or all of the following conditions can be observed: excessive salivation, coughing, vomiting, spasms. If diethyl ether’s introduced in a 3-5% concentration in the air, breathing 15-20 ml of diethyl ether will slowly induce an anesthetic effect within 15-20 minutes of inhalation, dependent upon body mass and overall physical condition. Prior to blacking out, diethyl ether causes a protracted stage of excitation. Diethyl ether should only be handled by individuals trained in haz-mat procedures, and trained specifically in diethyl ether. Failure to observe the proper procedures when handling diethyl ether can result in catastrophic traumatic injuries. That’s why I take exception to the recommendation of the practice of, or the repairing of, a mechanical temperature gauge containing diethyl ether. Using a soldering iron v an open flame to solder the gauge’s line’s NO guarantee that a dramatic explosion won’t occur. However, if someone’s bound and determined to undergo this, in my professional opinion, reckless exercise, at least put the bulb with the liquid diethyl ether therein on the floor, to keep any gaseous vapors in it from rising up to the work bench, and give yourself some increased odds of surviving this exercise, in the event that something goes awry.
    2 points
  2. Recently a friend and I were BS-ing over my Chrysler with the hood up, engine running. He said "Holy crap. Smooth." He suggested we put a glass of water on it at idle. We did. https://youtu.be/lSAAVPNhEfg
    2 points
  3. Spending my holidays in Denmark. About 1100 km north of my home in South Germany. My wife always wanted to have vacation in the North. Raaandomly last weekend there was a nice oldtimer meeting just behind the dunes of the house we rent ? It is an event where old racers (cars and motorcycles up to 1947) race along the Lakolk beach of RØMØ. Most were made in US. O.k. here I have to do an outing, I also like the early F..ds and Ch...ys, but I also saw some real nice Mopars. I had some super nice conversation with Plymouth guys from Belgum and the Netherlands about our Flathead 6 stuff. Enjoy if you want 1941 Plymouth 1938 Plymouth left - the Chrysler on the right was for sale Rusties Some other nice made US beauties F..d trucks (sorry, NO Mopar truck there) two for the big boys ... Let`s race Sporty Plymouth with sweet rear Big banger !!! P.S.: My wife was super happy, too ?
    1 point
  4. Pertronix systems is a hit and miss...its a hit per all I have read from folks using the entire package from the supplier, ignitior, coil, wires etc. It is the mix and match folks that have the most problems as I understand it. Personally I do not like them due to the fact no matter the problem, when they go bad...you cannot just walk into a store and walk out with a repair part....you are down for the mail order period. You can double the initial cost and carry a spare...but as you asked about Pertronix, I supplied the facts that they have the ignitor for you but you match the number on the distributor and the voltage you will be using it with...seems as stated earlier, you distributor is not stock for you year car...more than not been changed over the years.
    1 point
  5. Is you car 12v or still 6v? On my frequently driven (not daily but almost) 49, I went with the slant 6 conversion and a GM HEI module. Works like a charm and if it ever fails parts are easily available. Search "slant 6 distributor mod" here and you will find the best solution. BTW, I hate Pertronics, I'd stay with points before buying one of those but if yor're planning to stay 6v and want electronic ignition, Pertronics is your only choice.... Adam
    1 point
  6. REPLY — I'm off topic abit here with this, but your expressed concern deserves a response . . . I have tattoos – a “full sleeve” on my left arm. It wasn’t visible when I was working, as I wore long-sleeved shirts, and if I rolled up the cuff, they still didn’t show, since I didn’t go down to my wrist. As you know, people in healthcare have expectations of their providers. There are risks present in any procedure involving humans, but the contemporary inks typically have low risk factors. The greatest risk in tattooing is in acquiring HIV, which morphs into AIDS. Wherever your grandchild goes, you cannot be overly diligent in reviewing the shop’s sterilization procedures. Most states have standards and statutes that are as strict as those for a hospital. One that stringently follows those strict protocols is the one that you’d want to frequent. That’s what I did.
    1 point
  7. sounds as if the rotor latch is jammed up.....or the latch pawl is damaged....study the mechanism in the book or by comparing to another door that opens...these latches get very crusty over time and will get to the point that they will not allow the inner latching spring of the rotor to properly position the rotor when inner or outer door handles actives the mechanism...try to get some oil into the mechanism from the top by rolling down the glass and using a tube or straw to guide the oil..going to be a pain as the window guide itself will also bein the way...as a 52 model you can try removing the outer door handle and using this as access to lube the mechanism.
    1 point
  8. I also have one of those but it is a bit hard to check under the bonnet while driving...:-)
    1 point
  9. Thanks, guys. Yeah, I'm really leaning toward getting the bores oversized, as long as I can find a shop that will do a good job of it. A lot of machine shops don't do this kind of work, and I don't want one that says, "sure, we'll try it."
    1 point
  10. This thread is about to get locked due to uncivil behavior. . .
    1 point
  11. Got a little help from the wifie. I wonder if I can talk her into putting the tranny back in.?
    1 point
  12. Got it back in yesterday..a small milestone. Still a tone of work ahead of me
    1 point
  13. He's got some really cool stuff! https://www.vicsdodgegarage.com/
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. The Stude stopped on its way back East from Bonneville where it ran 248 MPH. The blue coupe put on quite a show carrying the front wheels about 20 feet on each launch.
    1 point
  16. The Plymouth Wagon had a Gen III Hemi under the hood.
    1 point
  17. Here are several from the track today. Few more Mopars in attendance.
    1 point
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