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rant on/ Honestly, between the amount of crap I've gotten from people about the ads being out of date, items sold or no longer needed and other members not following some very basic simple rules I would just as soon not have any. Sorry folks, it not my fault ads get out of date and the original author doesn't update or delete them. If people want ads, they need to step up and be responsible for paying and managing them. /rant off

Hi all, A good friend painted my 55 Fargo door lettering. I much rather like This, it's a nice touch. Been absent for a while figured some of y'all needed a break...lol Tragedy in our community had a severe impact in my household it had a rather negative effect on us all, so did not feel like doing much of anything for a while..

IMO oil threads should be banned just like religion and politics. Nothing good comes from any of them. ?

Which results in this image...LOL

I think I'm done. How long should I wait before I can mount the tires?

base coat/clear coat, urethane or acrylic enamel and no it is not wet paint...fully dry.....

Had mine painted with a single stage and to me it just looks "right" on these trucks. It lives outside and still looks pretty fresh with very little maintenance. One thing I see all the time here in SoCal is clear coat failure. The sun and heat seems to cause a lot of this here. When it happens it just looks like crap. Jeff

I'm not a body guy or a painter, but I've painted enough cars to know a little bit on the subject. Both single stage and BC/CC will work fine. Personally, I've made my decisions on a few things. For me it first comes down to if it has metallic in it, what kind of "look" I'm after, and how much I want to spend. If it is a metallic paint, my opinion is to use BC/CC. It's more forgiving with the metallic paints, and you can wet sand and buff with good results. If it's a solid color, I look at how much I want to spend on paint, and how I want the vehicle to look (a period correct look, or a better than new look). Depending on the line (quality) of paint, single stage is normally cheaper. Single stage also give a more period correct look and finish. If you are after a flawless, better than new, perfect paint job, then you probably want to go with BC/CC. In the end, as other said, its all about the result you're after. I personnally prefer single stage on 40s-50s cars/trucks. Here is my truck in single stage, and here is a 48 Desoto I painted in single stage. The Desoto has very cheap urathane single stage and it looks great. I think there is maybe $750 in the entire paint job (primer, material, paint and filler).

Yeah, but it still goes in my pocket ?

Did you know that rants cost $10 ?

V-Dub non significant?! Why I oughta...

I painted both these trucks in my garage about 20 years ago with single stage Centari by Dupont. I still own Old Yeller and it looks like it did right after I painted it. Being garaged helped.

A simple answer to your title no matter who paints it. Single stage: More original, old timey look. Base / Clear: Streetrod plastic dipped look. Depending on your preference. Adam

Renu Renu Renu

I thought that resulted from a divorce

I have sent master cylinders and wheel cylinders for the '48 half ton and '49 1-ton to White Post for sleeving, back in '99 and '04 respectively, and the only issue has been the 1-ton front wheel cylinders have a very small leak, probably due to pitting of the bleeder screw tip, which they told me last year they can fix...not under warranty, of course...$$$ well spent

Great timing as I just finished painting my wheels - yep, just the wheels. It turned out to be a greater challenge than I had anticipated. I learned a ton and expect if I were to continue and paint the truck proper, I would learn a ton more. At at this point, I concur with @Plymouthy Adams, “Ask a dozen painters and get a dozen different answers.” Armed with my new-found knowledge, if I were to paint my truck; and I may, I’ll go back to the local paint store with a box of donuts and jug of coffe and continue making a pest of myself ? ...then start with the inside tailgate. 1) MP 171 Epoxy Primer then Defleet Essential ESSS - ‘cause that’s why the paint shop crew reccommended 2) Did it myself ‘cause that’s how I roll. 3) Love how it turned out 4) Took a week longer than I had anticipated because of all the mistakes I made along the way - despite the amazing advice and knowledge gained here.

above I used the term BC/CC is best for the novice....may not have been the best used word...the BC/CC would be better described as the most forgiving...

this forum is full of paint threads....were you at the main page when you did you search or within a thread...if in a thread the search is limited to the contents in the thread....using the search feature and advanced search you can check all or any group of sections this forum is broken into.... there are 521 pages of threads with using just paint....using search on paint brand returns 12 pages.... I would gather by this question you are not going to paint the vehicle yourself. If you are sending it out, my first advice is not ask so much here as to discuss this with your painter. Many folks will only shoot a system they are familiar with and not bounce around a lot with different makers and systems. If I am wrong and you are going to paint his yourself, is this your first attempt to paint and if not what systems have you used in the past and which gave you the look and results you were aiming for. Do you have a proper area to shoot this paint, won the proper safety equipment and have adequate clean air supply and quality painting equipment on hand? Paint jobs cost a bit of money for a reason and it is not just paint cost... Personally to answer a part of your question is that I prefer the single stage enamel on the older cars.....but many here like urethanes, BC/CC and to be honest with you....most folks shoot what they have available or comfortable using. Modern paints are typically BC/CC . Ask a dozen painters and get a dozen different answers. Many say the BC/CC is for the novice as they can easily color sand and recoat the clear till they get the finish they want...

My new design works on a three speed and or an overdrive.

Ya need the parts book to run the #'s on ebay and google to find what you need.

I mocked one up like that but trashed it. That design won't work on an overdrive transmission.

Delfleet is an excellent product. This product is very similar to the old Imron polyurethane products. Keep it off your skin and wear good mask... Instead of getting to worked up about the pressure at the comp. etc, paint your garbage can first. I use an old Sata Jet and typically go by sound and flow. I always paint something, usually it is my garbage can. I test the flow and how much I can apply prior to it sagging etc. HS is a high solids paint, I found that trying to lay down the traditional tack coat, then following up with two additional coats left me with much more orange peel, which is typical if premature evaporation of thinner occurs, or low air pressure at cap when using this product. I had much better results applying a heavy coat, then applying a second coat and cranked up the air until it flowed better. It does not flow like an acrylic or other single stage products such as Sikkens or thin as heck Dupont and waterbase coatings. it is a very good quality high solids paint, you can cut it by adding additional esx 520 as well, but I dont. I like this product but have heard much negative about it. I painted a 75 Land Cruiser and I used more pressure than 35 psi, I set my stuff at the recommended psi but struggled when I first started. The wetter you can get it just before it runs.. the better it lays down.. The Epox you are using is also an industrial coating typically used as a bare metal prep. It is not intended as a sanding primer, wet sanding works best to avoid clogging if you want to sand. A sanding primer is typically used after epoxy sealing for light filling and fairing. The Delfleet is an excellent choice as opposed to base / clear being the price of good paint has tripled in price as of recent, unless one is looking to achieve show quality finish. IMHO... Years ago I used a lot of Imron which was also a high solids paint and grew to like it much more than acrylics and synthetics. It is much cheaper than base / clear two stage and strong as heck. We use to paint our double bottom semis. Stone hits to the fibreglass would actually dent the surface, acrylic would flake right off as would lacquer. Take your time and experiment prior to painting is what I would try. Also, the day I picked up a trouble light and started painting while holding a light to see the "flip" was the day the jobs started coming around. Good luck to you!

Its turning into a family affair as my brother and his daughter work on the bodywork repairs and paint. My brother is a professional autobody mechanic. My Niece is learning the prep & paint trade. My truck is in their capable hands. No short cuts, my Bro does an outstanding job. Cab lower rear corner getting replaced.

I would try Tanks,Inc. They have a web site,and they seem to sell more new repo tanks than anyone. I have two of their tanks in cars I own. BTW,if you go to their website and don't see one listed,send them a email to ask. Getting emails from people looking for repo tanks is what tells them there is a market out there for that particular tank.

I know! It's a real problem!!! Maybe now that the 48 is near the finish line, maybe I can start some small cabover projects. I can't believe its been 10 months since I've even put eyes on the truck! Heck, I hope it's still in the barn where I left it!

I do not own tables, desks or counter tops......they are defined as flat filing cabinets...

Two ranchers, one from Manitoba, the other from Texas were comparing the size of their spreads. " It takes me all day just to drive all the way around my place in my pickup truck! "drawls the Texan. " You must have a Fargo too. " says the Manitoban.

Here to stay...

Are you planning to modify this tool? It won't help much as pictured because you cannot center the shoes inside the drum. That's why the elusive Lockheed tool rotates on the spindle. Also without a way of arcing the shoes, getting a decent pedal, even with the Lockheed tool, is difficult.

Whether you paint the tops of the doors to match the roof or the body color I would cut off the white at the bottom of the A pillar and not bring it down to the cowl. I would stop it flush with the bottom of the windshield and bring it around to the center of the door molding. To dress it up more and not add a third color you could then bring in a 3/16 body color pinstripe up 3/16 from the bottom of the white. In effect you would have a white pinstripe against the blue followed by a blue pinstripe against the white and then the white top. Very neat and tidyand your color break is only a couple inches long. This is classic technique to break the color where there is no molding.

In my humble IMHO opinion, the doors above the beltline should be the roof color. It takes a little extra work. The pre-war/post-war bodies do well with the two-tone, although for most models the trunk needs a moldng to separate the colors. The 50s models for the most part have the bustle trunk, which helps define the color line. Here's my 47.

Thanks for the help here gents. After 2+ years of woodwork, I am on the the next step of what I know equally little of .... paint/floor replacement (by other professionals) and then putting it all back together. This is where I’m at after replacing about 1/2 the cars wood.

This is it now...........still a lot to do but its getting there........slowly

I have a 1935 Dodge KC truck I am working to restore, and I came across something that I can't figure out. I have the build sheet from Dodge, so I know the frame and the cab are the factory original parts. All the research I have done shows there are 2 style KC's in 1935. The early style used the 34 cab and had suicide doors. The later style had a new cab and had "normal" doors. I just noticed that my cab is most defiantly a 34 style cab, the windshield is not curved around the bottom edge and it does not have an all metal roof on the cab. But I do not have suicide doors. Even the placement of my door hinges are not the same as any other 35 KC I have seen online. So my question is what do I have? Did someone mess with my doors? Did Dodge make a few 34 style cab trucks without suicide doors? Any thoughts or suggestions for a direction to go would be greatly appreciated.

Too bad it's illegal to slap them upside the head a few times to knock some sense into them.