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Decided to heed the advice here and had a 1/4 inch steel bracket made for the rear mount of the tank. All is painted and installed now and I was able to place it so I can use the curved fill neck. Another step closer after the "minor" modifications to fit this tank... Tom

Round two today. What a difference too. Using all the knowledge shared here I was able to lay down a smooth even epoxy prime coat. This time, mixed the paint better. A little less hardener. A tad less air pressure (35 at the gun) and a wider spray pattern, but not full wide. The paint went on smooth and even, great coverage. No bald spots or drips and sags. I'll flip them over in the AM and start the outward facing sides. Maybe I can give them a couple hours then start shooting color. Thanks to all who have shred here.

Well I couldn’t resist. My girlfriends going to kill me probably but I bought the 53 Meadowbrook wagon.

I did my annual oil change and sent in a sample for testing, strictly for curiosity purposes. Included in this test is insolubles (particulates) in the oil that the filter is supposed to remove. Well it turns out that the Napa 1080 is doing a good job, see attachment. Next year I'll try the Baldwin JC-405 depth media sock element and re-test and post the results here. Although 0.1% would be hard to beat! No more assumptions, here is data:

Mp 170 Epoxy isn't for sanding, its for sealing things up. Urethane is for sanding....that's the high build you want. So you shoot the bare metal with Epoxy, then shoot it with a Urethane high build primer for shaping....then you can use the Epoxy again as a sealer. Epoxy is tougher and harder than Urethane. Urethane is soft for shaping with sanding. The bummer is that so many brands try to be both. I use MP170 (gray) and DTM 2004 as my high build. Steel wheels, brackets, etc will never need a Urethane.... 48D

That looks like the gas pedal grommet on my P-15.

is this not the hole for the original style anti-hotwire coils and shield assembly...

Contemporary Dodge used basically same hubs, but with studs instead of bolts. With your mods, you will be using modern hubs and rear axle anyway, so why bother?

" ... I turned to distributor cap around to 180 degrees from where it was ... " These distributor caps fit on only one way . If you want to turn your distributor 180 degrees you must pull the distributor from the block and turn the shaft , and then put it back in the block . Edited 1 hour ago by TylerB46

Additional pix of the engine compatment

I recently thought I would be very cleaver with the rebuild of a GM C10 Rail Road truck. The C10 RR trucks are very rare, they are an extended cab, with a back seat, the rear portion of the cab is very similar to a suburban with no back doors/tail-gate, a big window rear panel is used in lieu of the normal bard doors, etc. We discarded the '64 chassis, opting for a '98 C10 chassis with 5.7 V8, 4L60 AOD trans and the '98 differential. We used a Painless wiring harness to manage the power-train with the stock GM ECM that was re-flashed to eliminate all of the removed systems. Anti theft, navigation, etc. We eliminated the stock GM air box in favor of a KN filter-intake... The truck is a pleasure to drive with it's bucket seats, AC,PW, tilt, etc., still have paint work to do on the body. The truck is a real attention getter, mainly because they are so few and far between.

Sorry, I should have known that such a project is well above your pay grade. But we can agree or disagree that the 2 words I am making with my mouth at this moment are the same as the 2 words you made. ?

She’ll never be able to tell the difference. Just don’t have more than one at the house at any one time, and whatever you do to one vehicle do to the other. Problem solved. Very cool btw... love two door wagons/suburbans/panels etc.

when she realizes it is cutting into her monthly shoe budget you might get the axe......lol just kidding...to be honest with you, she should be happy as she knows where you and pops is at in the evening...off the street and out of trouble...

I got a 51 Plymouth wagon with the purchase too. ?

That will help you so much. I made a different kind but it will save you from crawling underneath. It's so much easier to work on something when you can stand. Thank your family friend really well.

John, It's much easier to get forgiveness than it is to get permission!!

OIL ?!? are you saying I should have put oil back in it?! Just kidding, that might be worth a try, I didn't even consider a gear oil solution. I would usually prefer to DIRTFT (do it right the first time) but not finding the two smaller bearing available, my "doing it right" maybe limited..... thanks Jeff, did you add the "semi" to the GL5 like an additive or replace the GL5 with the semi fluid? not suggesting it is the same, but it kinda reminds me about the myth mechanics would add wood shavings to quiet down the rear deferential and transmissions before they would sell a car.

A very common carburetor...try Neil Riddle in Seattle 206-285-6534.... he might have a good one or a re- build able core.

Great time to upgrade to 2 barrel!!

Bye.

If it is your intent to put your wife and family into the Plym then you need the best equipment possible. Old School junk yard parts don't get it anymore when it comes to today's traffic. I have a Fatman Stage II front clip under my '39 Plym with 11" disk brakes and a power rack. I have the same setup under my '49 Olds. I like Fat Man because their components are engineered to fit the vehicles they are going into. My engine is a small block V8, AODAT, PS, AC PB, rear end is 324,1 with Posie springs. FatMan front ends are not "Mustang II" they are based on the Mustang geometry which allows for the disk brakes and minimizes rear end lift under heavy braking. The Posie rear springs also complete the package. You will have to make special rear shackles, "C" shaped in lieu of the stock U type. There are several very good small block Chrysler V8's, 318, 340 and 360. Most Mopar people can only relate to Hemi's, yuck. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.. I have attached a pix of my car for your info.

This thread has photos http://p15-d24.com/topic/47366-new-37/?tab=comments#comment-502752. The 360/727 works great. Just wish it had a 46RH rather than the 727. One more gear would really be nice on the freeway.

i'm a hotrodder & my 40 Dodge has been a hotrod since 1973, original IFS with various upgrades incl rack & pinion, 318 poly V8, etc, etc............my suggestion as your car has the straight chassis rails would be to checkout the XJ6 Jaguar suspension, the Mk 2 or Mk 3 complete front end is a very nice handling and riding suspension the only thing is that you have to fabricate an upper shock mount, usually from a piece of 2" box tube welded onto the shock tower.....the rear end, again a Mk 2 or 3 version is best left in the original cage and mounted to your chassis using the original Jag rubber mounts on both sides.....ideally get the original Jag forward facing lower control arms AND the rubber biscuits and the chassis indents they mount into........or leave your original leaf springs in but disassemble them, install teflon strips, new shocks and a sway bar..........rebuild the original steering box or replace with something a bit more modern...........btw......welcome aboard from Oz..........andyd .

Ha. My dad is using this project as an excuse to restock his garage and toolbox. My mom doesn't like it because its taking up her parking spot but its not my problem! ?